espinay2

Mine dig holes you could bury a truck in, but they don't dig in those runs.

Here is a picture of it as it was being layed. Also a closeup of the bodpave.

A picture where you can see what the finished surface is like with the Bodpave/crusher dust. This is about 4.5 years after laying. You can't see the bodpave though as it is under the gravel!

No damage to the tiles. A couple have lifted a bit in spots where our site prep wasnt the best (We put some of it down in a hurry). The tiles themselves are as good as the day we put them in 5 years ago. Just need to top the gravel up from time to time. I do like to keep filled/covered so it is easier on paws, but the dogs dont seem to mind. The gravel on top tends to shift a little away from the most used areas but is easy to just rake it back over (I use the back of a builders rake) and you dont get wear paths like you would on 'softer' surfaces. All in all very happy with it and would use it again, but would make sure to take the time to prepare the surface properly first (same as you would for any other paver really).

It was a few years ago now do I can't remember price. We ordered online from the company. They are square paver tiles that fit together when you lay them. The most important thing is to have a flat base when you lay them or they tend to lift/shift. Good base preparation is important (we laid crusher dust first and levelled).

I use a product called 'bodpave' and crusher/cracker dust. Runs drain really well and the crusher dust is easy to top up as required and relatively inexpensive. It is not hard on the dogs legs like concrete etc and I find it easy to clean and maintain. With the bodpave, they also can't dig holes in it. Downsides - the Bodpave is not a 'cheap solution' (but worth it IMO). If you are looking for an interim solution for concrete, you may want to just put crusher dust down without the bodpave. check your slope for drainiage first and lay ag pipe if necessary to channel any water. I have couple of runs that are just crusher dust laid straight on the clay and they drain well and stay dry. though the dogs do dig in these from time to time which is a pain as they need more repair work/mainteneance. The crusher dust will provide a decent starting base for concrete or pavers if you decide to do that later.

I use breedmate. Useful program.

Congratulations!!! :)

Check first as I know NSW just recently made it clear it was not to be done.

Interesting you read it that way as reading it I see more concern about the dog being happy and fitting with their situation rather than the other way around. It doesn't seem to be a case of the humans not wanting to do the work, but whether the dog is happy in the situation that sometimes no amount if work can really fix as the examples of others here have shown. Dogs have individual personalities and just like all humans can not live together happily it stands to reason that sometimes dogs will have a mismatch too. It is a strong person who is looking out for the welfare of their dog that can realise that sometimes their dog will be happier elsewhere. It may not be good for the ego and it may hurt like hell to do it and yes you may feel guilt that you have 'failed' in some way, but in the end it is the dog is important. This is not 'disposal' as it comes from a whole other place and attitude. And the two should never be confused.

I also breed purebred poultry. Showing them has taken a backseat to showing dogs and other dog stuff.

While in Australia many people start their dogs early, in quite a few other places (the US for example) many dogs don't see much of the ring until they are around 2 or older when they are finished growing and considered 'competitive'.

My breed is known for having litters later in life - 6 to 10 years or so and interestingly there are historical anecdotal stories about well known brood bitches (famous in old pedigrees) who 'refused' to go into whelp until 6 or older. I know of a recent years 'oops' litter overseas too (which produced some truly wonderful dogs) where the bitch was 11 if memory serves me right and every attempt to get her in whelp prior to that age had failed. Both bitch and pups strong and healthy. In general I would probably say 8 years on average is a good age for a last litter in my breed, but I really hate the idea of arbitrary limits.

Gunning is about a half an hour on the Sydney side of Yass: http://www.visitnsw....on/barbour-park There are quite a few free places along various routes. A lot of the 'grey nomads' know about them and use them so google search on caravanning sites etc for more.

The thing you have to remembr about Hugo is that he is..... what... a bit over 12 months old? At this age I kind of expect destruction and frustration. Any new dog in the future with have to go through the same. They won't be Harvey, because not only are they not Harvey, but they are also not a 9 year old dog. Now Isobel, perhaps look to rehoming her if you really feel you haven't clicked with her and she would perhaps be better elsewhere. But when thinking about the same for Hugo, perhaps also consider that what Hugo needs is time to grow up?

Rant away. That type of bullying is uncalled for. IMO a formal letter (or email) to the club may be your best course of action and is likely to get the most action from the club in terms of getting members to pull their head in. They can then take it up with their members by at least sending out a 'reminder' to them about the rules. And can confirm it with council if they so desire. IT may also be more 'educational' than simply confronting any belligerents with the rules (as they will not be averse to accepting that when they may take it from their club if done more formally) The letter need only say the time and date, what the situation was and the reaction of members of the club to you (i.e. bullying). Then go on to state that after re-confirming with the council that you were within your rights and the law to use the grounds as you were, and that noting you had taken the fact that it was a shared facility into consideration by staying on the far side of the oval so not to impact on the clubs activities, you would like the club to show the same consideration to you and other users. Attach a copy of the regs to the letter for their info.

that is the law in Victoria though. Even if a child is walking your dog, their parents will be culpable, not you. Even more interesting if the ruling did not accord with the law....

Yes the markings are dark when born and in most cases (though not always) will fade, often significantly. Most people won't notice the markings except for light shadings up close when the dogs are older. Only some pyrs are born all white. None in this litter though graces sire is all white.

The way it read I wasn't sure if that was a story that was made up later or not. But I find it interesting that in some cases (DA in particular) the actions of the dog may be wholly contributed to the owner whether it is undertheir control at the time or not, but in 'minor' cases (killing another animal in this case though) their actions may not be. Seems there is less legal and moral 'duty of care' on the part of the owner in these cases? So where is the line drawn from a legal point of view? If a dog is under the control of someone other than its owner, and bites a person or another dog, where does the owner stand legally and morally? Are they responsible for their dogs actions in these situations or not? Can of worms really. Or perhaps an interesting precedent for Victoria in particular.

Congrats on the babies Bel. Sorry to hear about the little one that didnt make it. Pups here are 9 days old now and doing well. All chubby little hippos. Mum is doing a great job of feeding them despite being so frustrating about eating and drinking herself. All I can say is thank god for the Leerburg puppy formula which is as fantastic for the bitch as well. Grace is refusing to drink water and refusing to eat much of anything (though slowly getting better) but loves the formula (goats milk, yoghurt, egg and karo syrup - I have added Protexin and Vit C too) and is now drinking about 5 litres of that per day watered down half and half.

I find it interesting though that the court ruled that even though he owned the dog, his moral and legal culpability was low because he was not in charge of it at the time.

I know you don't need to now, but one thing you can do if you need to enclose a puppy on short notice (or just want a reasonably priced puppy pen) is to go to Bunnings and get a compost cage (or more if you want a bigger pen). http://www.bunnings....e_P3160000.aspx You can use cable ties to hold it together (those wire twist things on the corner can be a pain) and a couple of snap hooks to to secure the doorway.

Try having a big white dog that is meant to have a good textured top coat.. LOL! With my breed you see both extremes from time to time in different places. Totally ungroomed to trimmed and over groomed. Coat is treated as very important in the breed (it is a working dog after all) and the top coat is meant to be harsh (traditionally 'the coat of a goat' as the French are apt to call it) with a thick weatherproof undercoat. Too much washing and the coat becomes quite soft and can be quite open (depending on the dog and the judge I will often wash several days or a week before if I think I can keep them clean in the meantime as it improves coat texture). Not a trimmed breed either, though usually feet are tidied. I love seeing clean nicely presented coats, but they shouldnt be puffballs. On the whiskers, when I first started years ago with my Dally I trimmed whiskers ans at the time that is what was 'done'. Over the years I moved away from doing it and don't do it anymore.

I have a Nobo heater with thermostat in the whelping room. Also a heat mat in the whelping box. I put it in a pet bed/use towels under the vetbed to create a 'nest' in one corner I have temperature guages in different parts of the room (I just use the ones that I use in my chicken incubators) so I know what the temp is. As mum doesn't like it warm, it is a fine balance between keeping pups warm and making mum comfortable enough that she wants to stay.

For webbing collars I like http://www.countrybrookdesign.com/ They will make to measure. Their basic off the shelf large nylon 1 inch heavy duty martingale collar is good quality and very adjustable.