espinay2

Why? Isn't that taking out the true nature of the breed just for the show ring? That would be like taking the boldness from a Stafford or the drive from a GSD. Finding it interesting to see discussion on different LGD breeds as with pyreneans it is generally accepted that when a Pyr is 'off territory' it is largely 'off duty'. The dogs therefore react very differently to things when away from home turf to when they are home and working and are very discriminating when it comes to what is a threat and what isn't and in what context they are and are not. This certainly hasn't diluted their guardian instinct.

Considering that 90% of dog breeders, triallers and general pet owners I know work full time I would definitely disagree with that.

I will add that I too am not against anyone becoming a breeder and we need to encourage the future of our fancy but ylu may find that while your male teaches you a lot about the breed, no matter how good he actually is he may not be the right choice in the end for whatever bitch you get. You need to be prepared NOT to use him on her if he is not the best choice and not be tempted just to use him because he is there and convenient or for any sentimental reasons. As a breeder you need to learn to look at your dogs on two different levels - as the loving pet and companion you adore and that is 'perfect' in that respect and as the example of the breed which you need to look at unemotionally and critically and pick apart by looking at its faults and failings as well as its strengths as a potential breeding animal. Not everyone can separate these two, but it is something a good breeder learns and is important to do. As is understanding that picking a dog apart and looking at is critically for breeding does not lessen its perfection as a beloved pet.

You also need to read up on state legislation in VIC regarding breeding. On my phone so can't link but if you go into the breeder section if the forum you will see a thread on dogsVIC and compliance which had links in it to the state regs you will need to be familiar with as a breeder.

Ok here is the link to info. Looks like they have changed the website a bit and you now need to log in to get it, but easy enough to do. Go to this website: http://www.dogstardaily.com/ and look at the article on 'errorless housetraining' as it explains the setup if the pup is to be inside while you are out. I still suggest having the pup in a secure enclosure outside though if you can (providing the pup with adequate shelter/shade etc etc of course). You can get a reasonably priced dog run at www.vebopet.com.au for example or even ebay. (something even those who are renting/don't necessarily want a permanent structure can use)

Every pup I have ever raised has been raised while I worked full time. Can be done for sure. Food-wise you feed in morning, leave with a nice big juicy raw meaty bone to chew on and/or stuffed kong toy during the day, feed when you get home and them maybe a snack again a bit later. An outside pen/run is ideal as the pup is secure and contained but can get important sunshine and toilet at will. When you get home you can then bring the pup inside and perhaps have a crate inside for sleeping in at night. The important thing if you are out all day is to give the pup the attention and training it needs in the morning and evening (when dogs are naturally most active anyway). If your pup is to be inside during the day you can attach a pen to a crate. The crate is the bed and the pen is the play/eating and potty area. on my phone now but will post a link to a great little booklet a little layer which explains the setup and how to use it in relation to house training etc. When you first bring the pup home be sure to establish the routine of leaving the pup alone for a period of time right from the beginning. Pups who are brought home on holidays for example and have constant company for their first weeks often fare worse when it comes to separation anxiety than those who get used to being on their own from the beginning. Make leaving and returning a non event too. This is harder for you than the pup! I think as owners we can suffer plenty of separation anxiety ourselves when there is a new pup at home and we have to be at work lol!

Both options have their pros and cons. With a purebred of the breed of your choice you have some consistency that you can rely on. If you know the breed and know it suits you you can know to at least some degree the dog will fit. Don't discount breed rescue in this respect too if you really like the idea of homing a dog in need. Most breed clubs play a rescue role to a greater or lesser extent depending on need etc. providing a home to a rescue dog in general will always bring unknowns. As suggested, going through a rescue that can provide a more hands on assessment of the dogs in their care can lessen the risk a bit too.

They should, but accidents do sometimes happen despite all we do. When accidents do happen it is a good reminder to us (and others) to make sure we look at our procedures and do what we can to prevent it again in future. In this case, shutting the gate after the horse has bolted IS a good idea, just in case the horse decides to bolt again. Though naturally keeping the 'horse' in in the first place is the ideal. If it happens though, best to be open and deal with it and admit the horse is yours as the OP is doing (and I commend you for that). I will admit after this week dealing with a 'breeder' (not in this country) whose (large breed) bitch had 9 litters (and in whelp a tenth time when she died) because she 'liked to escape' and 'liked being pregnant' and he 'loved his dogs', I find this thread rather refreshing!

Didn't see the comments as smart arse. just another point of view (talking about horses). No need to get bent out of shape if you are comfortable with your decision.

I have seen this website before and was devastated that a dog of my chosen breed caused an incident in which a child lost its life. They were not very forthcoming on what they thought caused the dog to react the way it did (they detailed the incident but not what they thought was the reason for the dog's reaction) and from time to time I still wonder about this. They do mention a little in this note http://www.liamjperk...n.org/note.html "After returning home from the hospital without Liam and no dogs in the house, I said to my sister we need to let people know. I didn't know what I wanted to let people know at that point, but as the days and weeks progressed we started learning a lot about dog body language. Why was this morning different for Loyd? It wasn't to us, but to Loyd it was his point that he had enough. Enough of what? I thought everyone got along. After much researching and educating ourselves on dog body language, I realized that Loyd was uncomfortable with my little Liam. When people hear of what happened they will say my dog doesn't bite. He's good with kids. He'd never do that. Well, do you think we thought our dogs would!! Loyd was a very high energy dog, but not vicious. A dog does not need to be vicious to bite. All dogs have the capability of biting. They will if they want to and there is absolutely nothing you can do to stop it when it happens. Dogs can bite in .025 seconds. That's what people need to know. The Liam J. Perk Foundation was created in an effort to educate parents and dog owners through seminars, school presentations, and events to provide a safe environment for children and dogs as a family." I would probably add to the above, that the time to stop a dog bite is generally WAY BEFORE it actually happens.

Here is another example (though definitely not as horrific) of people seeing a dog acting 'cute' and misreading the signs. http://www.facebook....&type=2 (watch this with the sound off to 'see' it better) Dominant 'play'? I keep expecting the dog to start humping the child at one point.

A good reminder at Xmas time particularly when we often have less than dog savvy visitors to WATCH YOUR DOGS BODY LANGUAGE and be VERY careful not to put them in a situation where they are uncomfortable. I am sure the owner of this dog thinks his dog is 'great' with children (I actually cringe when ANYONE tells me that...). And the dog is in fact VERY restrained. But IMO that is no excuse for the abuse of both dog and child shown here even if it is done in ignorance. A 'hug' from a child may look cute, but that is not generally how the dog sees it....... http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10151229104977745

I think one of the issues with breed clubs is that they do take dedication to run, but for the 'average person', they just want to join a club and get something out of it. I know myself on the odd occasion I have been slack rejoining a club (talking breed clubs not just for dogs here) as I didn't see the 'worth' in it for me personally (particularly in time of competing priorities for funds). I have been on the other end of the stick too, trying to do the work on committee to keep the club functioning and trying to work out ways to get and keep people involved. I personally don't know what the answer is and I guess it all comes down to what any breed club is actually there for - what their aims are (and how much of those aims and attitudes are about people giving to the club versus the club giving to people). And whether there is going to be a strong base of people there to support its continued running or not who can provide a service to encourage those other members. I agree that we may need to start thinking outside the box rather than try and stick to the way things have always been done. We can change things without degrading the message. Having a 'smaller' breed I know how difficult it can be. While our registration numbers are small though (around 50 per year on average) they have remained reasonably constant (with occasional ups and downs) since the 1980's. A breed like the Maltese though is IMO a 'bellwether' breed for the state of purebred dogs as a whole and we need to all take heed of what is happening here. What can be done to prevent this type of thing or turn it around? We KNOW SWF are popular. So what are the reasons that purebred registered Maltese are not? Is it (lack of or poorly focussed) marketing? Something to do with the dogs themselves? The expectations in regards to showing and coat? An aging breeder population? Are the breeders there and not breeding, or are there less breeders? WHY are they not breeding or WHAT made them get out? (survey?) I really think we need to know, for all our breeds sake.

Baby gate so pup and cat can be separated and cat has a 'safe room' high cat tower so cat has a place to escape to out of the way of the pup Crate for pup for sleeping in at night etc. ALWAYS supervise the pup in the presence of the cat - at this point on lead. When you can't supervise they need to be separated. TEACH the pup to leave the cat alone and ignore the cat. The pup will not learn the rules unless it it taught. correct it when it goes to move towards the cat and praise/reward for leaving the cat alone/ignoring it. As mentioned, teach 'leave it' - first as an exercise with food and other objects - which you can also use in reference to the cat. Also teach the pup to 'watch' you and pay attention to you rather than focussing on the cat. As the pups leader YOU need to be in control of the situation. I recommend Patricial McConnells booklet on leadership: http://www.dogwise.com/itemdetails.cfm?ID=DTB479

The main issue to be aware of when x-raying a bitch is the effect of relaxin on her ligaments. Being in season is not generally the issue (some say yes, most say no), but if a bitch is pregnant she produces relaxin, which 'relaxes' the ligaments (as an aid to birth etc). Here is some info on relaxin: http://www.biolrepro.../3/719.full.pdf OFA recommends not x-raying until a month after weaning. In answer to the question about the 'ideal' time to x-ray, if you get to pick your date, this is generally at least 4 months after a bitches last season (if she wasn't in whelp), and not within a month of when she is due in again.

When the toast has jam on it and not vegemite, and you HATE jam.

When the blanket falls off you and you complain till the human tucks you in again.

When it is 3pm EXACTLY (you can set your watch by it) and the human must feed them IMMEDIATELY or they will fade away. Despite the fact that the pre advertised mealtime had always been at least 5pm!

Yes. And on that note I just dropped a line to my local State member on this issue. His electorate is a rural farming based one so I darn well hope he listens!

I really can not beleive this. Is there really someone out there that thinks this is a good move? WHAT NEXT! I know - lets get the RSPCA folk into the yards to move the cattle...... I wonder what the National Party and the National Farmers Federation think of this?

Ok I am pi**ed off as my computer just dumped a HEAP of work after I had written it, so this is the short version (I HATE that DOL does not save stuff in the reply pane if something goes wrong). Just did a walk through the legislation and basically yes, Members of DogsVIC ARE exempt from the Code of Practice for the Operation of Breeding and Rearing Establishments (http://www.dpi.vic.g...-establishments ) IF they have LESS than ten fertile female dogs, as it is made under a section of the Domestic Animals Act 1994 that directly relates to the definition of a Domestic Animal Business which includes as part of that definition a member of an applicable body (which Dogs VIC is) who has 10 or more fertile female dogs. For others it is three or more fertile females so non Dogs VIC members can have only two entire bitches before they become subject to the code.(So under this current legislation, Dogs VIC members with 10 or more fertile female dogs are not exempt, but those with less are). HOWEVER, regardless of the number of dogs, they are still subject to the Code of Practice for the Private Keeping of Dogs ( http://www.dpi.vic.g...keeping-of-dogs ) made under the provisions of the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Act 1986) which everone is subject to and includes provisions in relation to breeding and housing etc. They are also all subject to the Code of Practice for the Responsible Breeding of Animals with Heritable Defects that Cause Disease ( http://www.dpi.vic.g...ritable-defects ) which is also made under the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Act 1986. As an interesting aside point - in the recent 'collie' case, didn't the breeder have more than 10 fertile females? (I don't know the facts). In which case they would not have had an exemption and would be subject to the code of practice. In which case it was not a Dogs VIC 'failing to monitor' necessarily as it can be argued that while they 'should monitor all members, they have much more obligation in relation to monitoring those that are exempt than those which are already subject to the Code of Practice and the ACT, which provides for council to inspect the premises (and they may inspect annually prior to accepting the annual registration). I am wondering too, how the VCA, who holds no authority under the legislation, can play in ensuring compliance with any legislation. They can ensure/enforce compliance with the rules and regs and code of ethics of Dogs VIC. But as far as compliance with Govt Legislation (which is completely different to the Dogs VIC rules in many ways), surely their role and obligation is an advisory one? (advisory to the member and perhaps advisory to GOVT/Council if a member is not complying too?) Hmmmm.

Make sure they are sharp. Some are too blunt and that makes cutting more difficult.

I found that strange too Steve as that was my understanding of how the Vic exemptions work. I wonder if the VCA has it in writing that members are exempt from the code or if there is a disconnect somewhere. Could be a nasty surprise in store for some if VCA is saying one thing when the reality is different.

Avoid cod liver oil for bitches in whelp. Ok at other times. Flax oil and fish oil are fine (provided they have not had other stuff added which I can not comment on) Falx and fish oil - I have fed both over the years and find them both good. (brand-wise my 'favourites' have probably been the Stoney Creek brand flax seed oil and cheaper bottles of 400 fish oil caps from the discount chemist. I also add LSA to their food from time to time) Some dogs may react to flax oil moreso than fish oil as it is plant based, so with allergic dogs I might stick to fish oil.

Sounds weird that they would say that. I wonder if he misheard (or who the person was he spoke to?). As mentioned, there is no set price. A breeder can charge as little or as much as they like.