Erny

Have PM'd through to you, Coco22. You're more than welcome to contact me further.

Jaybeece And to everyone who is coming ..... with or without their dog/s .

Banking information collected and payment acknowledgements will be issued in the next week.

Bumping, because time is now running out ................................

Hi Ruffles. So long as you've emailed me where I can link the info together to follow the trail . I'll be checking deposits again on Monday or Tuesday (internet deposits tend to take 2 days to show up). Shoemonster - I'm looking forward to it to. Will be great to see everyone there.

Hi guys Just thought to pop a note in here. Many people are lodging their payments as per email notice (thank you ). However, I realise that Westpac often doesn't allow "alphabet references" to be noted with deposits. That means I have a few that have come in with no reference. It's ok .... I think they are sorted, but it makes it quite difficult to match deposit to name without much interaction with the bank, so thought I'd let you know that in those instances where "alphabetic references" are not allowed, you can put in a sequence of numbers instead. All you need to do is then email me to let me know of the payment, along with your reference number and I can more easily match payments with payees. Thanks for your help and consideration everyone. An information sheet outlining what to bring etc. will be sent out in April. Can't believe how fast the time is going! Cheers! Erny

Flat collar for now. I presume "puppy school" gave you some tuition on teaching your youngster the early basics of loose lead walking skills? Why one month's wait? That's a long time. Admittedly, I'm not one for waiting until all vaccinations are completed - prefer to weigh things up and stir in a good dolup of common sense approach (ie choosing wisely where my pup would go). What training tool you end up using later depends on your dog. I would definitely not use a head collar of any description on a young pup (I'm not a fan anyway, given the very high and real potention to physical harm) and your pup is too young for any corrective collar at this stage.

I am drawing to conclusion of the PPCollar submission to Government. The "main" submission is about complete and is presently under scrutiny for editing purposes at the moment. I have the submissions people have sent in (:rolleyes:) ..... but can always use more :wink: . The petition is "out there" but I need lots more responses. Even those who have made a submission are entitled to sign the petition. Of course there's got to be plenty of other people out there who didn't do a submission but who'd be willing and happy to sign the petition. Please see the link in the post above. I'm in the throws of putting the finishing touches to the final additions to the submission as a whole and although that in itself is not a small task, I expect to be proceeding to the next step of arranging presentation to the Government fairly soon. This last step (ie the finishing touches) is no mean feat in itself so suffice to say that there is still time for those who have wanted to support but haven't yet gotten around to it, to do so now. Really ...... although the submission is going well, I sincerely need your help. Please . Thank you . I can't believe this has taken almost a year ...... how time flies when you're having fun .

Midol ..... by putting up the unproductive comments, even to laugh at them, is only bringing yourself to that level. The only treatment they deserve is no treatment. In other words, be bigger than they and ignore them.

I agree with Haven, Midol. I'd be inclined to calmly give a few basic facts but also add that they are entitled to their opinion even though it might not be the appropriate place or time to express it. Point them in the direction of a web-site which gives them information that might be helpful to their better understanding of the tool and certainly avoid getting caught up in a conversation that is non-productive and potentially inflaming. If you believe in something and are serious about it being in the best interests of your dog, you don't need to stoop to their level by responding to 'goading' comments. Just keep it factual. It's up to them how much out of it they want to learn, or not.

Oh - thanks Haven. No, this thread welcomes posts by those who are opposed to the PPCollar as well. The original post does say .... Sorry if I couldn't grasp the purpose of your question, Tatelina. Would you mind explaining further by way of factual reasoning why you're against the proper use of a PPCollar?

Sorry, but I cannot make any sense out of your question. Would you mind clarifying your question please.

Thanks for posting Tatelina but I'm a bit confused by your question. Are you asking "how will it be known that the owner would use the PPCollar instead of the flat collar" ?? Generally speaking, if an owner seeks to find a better way for their dog - why would they then refuse to employ the better way, if it proves to be in their own dog's best interests? You've said you don't like the PPCollar - would you mind expanding on your reasoning for this point of view? How do you think these things work? (ie how are they applied?) Do you only see it as an "easier option" for the handler? Why don't you identify it as an easier option for the dog? And what of the dogs that without, might otherwise face a lesser dog friendly technique? And I ask that you define "dog friendly" as not as YOU might see it, but how you think the dog might see it. Why? It does aid in achieving training. What do you regard as a training aid?

Rom ..... I love the way you 'deep think' things through. And the above is an excellent analogy. :rolleyes:

Rusky ..... I think they are Denis' links, not Bonmedia's. All the same, I agree. Sounds like a lot of people who are certainly not open to discussion ................ or learning?

Rocco01 .... Really glad to hear that things are now better. The fact that you are more confident will help your dog immensely too. I'm sure Rom was thorough in her instruction and guidance for its proper use. I just want to make sure though, that because you have this improved control does not mean your dog's emotions (ie the cause for his reactivity) are yet changed. Remember that comes with time and training. So learn to act early (ie behind the reaction threshold .... in otherwords, at the first sign - which could be for example as little as your dog pricking its ears and looking to the distance towards another dog). Don't rely on giving your dog a correction as a substitute for behaviour modification. Oh - and don't forget the tonnes of reward for the now improved behaviour. Something that I bet you didn't get much opportunity to give him beforehand.

The thing is the things you are using/doing, aren't working. This means you need to change things. Did the instructors (private and group) show you what to do and demonstrate the results? What did they show and explain to you and what alternatives when you said you don't wish to use a check chain? I'm not suggesting you must or need to use a check chain on your dog to achieve what you require, but remember that it's not that the check chain is "on" that makes any difference to the dog one way or the other, it's how you use it. Intensity of correction is always a variable thing, depending on the dog and circumstances. You say you've tried a martingale with no luck. Were you shown how to apply it properly but effectively? We need to know here what you do do in your training and everyday interactions with your dog, as well as what your expectations are. At the moment, it sounds as though your all of 5kg dog is lording it over you. Have you looked into training your dog in drive? Sure, he's only 5kg and therefore small, but dogs are still dogs no matter the size. Of course, it does depend on what drive your dog has been genetically bestowed.

Why was this all you could do? Why pick him up? It doesn't sound as though you are exhibiting the calm assertion that your dog needs, but what advice/instruction on 'what to do' have you been given by both your private instructor and the group session instructor? A harness isn't likely to help you with the control you need at the moment.

It depends on whether you are using it as positive punishment (for not coming) or negative reinforcement (where the dog learns he/she is in control of the stim "off switch by exhibiting the desired behaviour). Working level stim ..... which is lowest stim to which the dog indicates it felt something .... like an itch.

Ditto to Nekhbet's post here. Your Huskie's behaviour may well have had benign intent - we can't tell that one way or the other from this side of our computers. I agree with the "socialise ... as much as you can" as if your dog was a pup, but remember that your "pup" is 7 months old .... which really is more "young dog" than pup ........ a time when they are entering adolescence and a time when you need to be able to clearly, firmly but safely exhibit your leadership skills. If you're not sure about your dog's behaviour now and whether you need to worry, it would pay to have someone assess the situation for you and help you with being a firm but fair leader.

I won't be there, but good luck, Kelpiesrule. Are you allowed to take smelling salts into the ring with you? When I used to do competition eventing with my horse, I found that if I was relaxed before the comp my nerves were more inclined to reveal themselves on the day. So perhaps it is a good thing you are nervous now. When you're in the ring, do what you can to psych yourself into pretending that it's only practice.

Hi Fletch :D . Welcome to the site. The problem with what you've suggested here is that sometimes this method can actually escalate the problem. Scenario example : Dog's anxiety increases when placed in kennels and when he returns to the owner is even more anxious that he might be separated, so becomes even more clingy and more concerned when the owner is absent. Your suggestion for the balloon might bear results, however if for example something such as anxiety or boredom is the root of the problem for the digging behaviour, you would only be dealing with the symptom. If the cause of the problem continues to exist, it is possible that the behaviour may not desist, and may in fact either worsen or manifest itself by means of other unwanted behaviours. In addition, if something like anxiety is the root cause for the digging problem, a popping balloon can be frightening and might only go towards increasing the already existent anxiety. This can help in some situations. It's called "stimulation control" and I too have commonly suggested it to people who have dogs who are incessant diggers and/or where the behaviour is innate - for example with terriers, who were and are selectively bred for the digging trait. Providing them with a sand-pit to dig in (but simultaneously being vigilant to teach them to dig there and nowhere else in the yard) can provide them with a source of satisfaction of the instinct for which they've been bred. ETA: If the dog is digging for 'shelter', then adequate shelter from the elements needs to be supplied. Thank you for posting here and I hope my explanation to your discerning post has leant some explanation to show that sometimes things are not as simple as we might at first believe them to be. :D Erny Footnote: None of the above 'causes' used as an example in the above necessarily relate to Incredijack's pup's issues ..... I'm not even sure where 'dependancy' cropped up. Perhaps I've missed something? But from memory from Incredijack's other thread, her pup is only 16 weeks old. The behaviours she describes do sound like 'normal' puppy behaviours, albeit that they are unwanted and she needs to work with her pup to consistently and effectively show her pup these behaviours are not desireable. A popping balloon at this young age could serve to sensitise her pup to loud noises - not something we'd want to occur. Teaching a young pup independence is a process in itself - ideally it is about leaving the pup in an environment where it feels safe and occupied, initially for short periods and then increasing those periods over time.

Then try surreptitiously clipping it on whilst she is in the act of eating. Leave for a small moment or two or three, then unclip it.

Put the lead on .... do nothing with it, then treat her. Repeat a few times. Finish the session. This shouldn't take long and all being well, the next step is to put the lead on and allow her to volunteer to walk. You go with her (no tension on the lead). And treat her. Put the lead on and be just a couple of feet in front of her (kneel down to begin with, to encourage) and call her over to you. Treat her. Put the lead on when you're just about to give her her meal. Take it off when the meal is finished. That's a start until you can get to someone who can show you. ETA: Hint/tip : You don't need to quote all and every one of the posts you're responding to. If you don't need to quote, just hit the "add reply" button - helps to stop the thread becoming too long unneccessarily :wink:. Of course, if you want to quote each time, that's ok.

I hope that's soon? I'm not one for waiting (although I do take using common sense into consideration) but that's a whole 'other' story and one which is well discussed in many threads throughout the DOLForums. In the interim you can put into place things such as a gruff "aagh" and walk away (ie play/interaction stops). If you have a play pen for her where she doesn't have free access to the whole of the house, that would be helpful. With the biting at your ankles as you walk - this is not completely uncommon. For some pups, the invitation of chasing loose flappy trouser ends is simply irresitable. Sometimes the "aagh" and a (eg cheek) scruff will do the trick. For others, I've had them wear old clothes and treat the bottom of their trousers and tops of their shoes with a "bad taste" substance, and for some that has done the trick. Using the lead to prevent it, but making sure the rewards are there (pat; good girl; etc) before she starts the nipping behaviour, can help. If she's nipped and then stopped - be careful to pause before you reward, otherwise she still might pair the reward with the behaviour that was exhibited immediately before reward delivery. Also - for her training. Try not to go too far too fast. I wouldn't even bother with "heel" at this age. Concentrate on the basics of sit, walk on loose lead and come. When they seem to be happening without too much fuss or bother, add in "drop". You can add in a release word (which is a word that later on will become to mean "you don't have to be "seated" anymore) as well, but I wouldn't be trying for stay work at this stage either. She is a baby with the attention span of a gnat. When kids first go to school, we'd hardly expect them to be able to cope with more complex mathematic skills beyond the 12 x table ..... same with pups. Teach them what they are capable of learning according to their brain development. Build on what you've taught to establish reliability. Expect more as she grows older into and through adolescence. Whilst you do want to introduce some basic obedience skills, emphasise should be on teaching her appropriate socialisation skills, and gently getting her accustomed to worldly and otherwise "novel" things.