Erny

Try crate training him. You'll find this VERY handy - not only to assist with toilet training, but also for other times right through to and including his adult life. And this will solve the problem of him being on the carpet.

Started as an NDTF course - mainly to help me help my own 'special needs' dog. But I became addicted and couldn't stop with only helping one dog .............. No. But had a history steeped in dogs and horses, amongst other animals. Had another business (un-related) and kept working that whilst I gained more experience both in a theoretical and practical sense. No second income so many sacrifices made (both on a financial and time level). Dedication and patience certainly a required trait. Additional work as trainer at Boarding & Training kennels as well as obedience class instructor over a number of years. NDTF Cert III NDTF Behaviourist Course NDTF Scent Detection Trainer Multitudes of other seminars and workshops (intra and interstate) as well as self-motivated research. Obedience Training Behaviour Problem Solving (domestic issues through to and including aggression)

Yes . I loved all the info, learning and prac handling experiences I gained through the NDTF Course. From there I have undertaken other courses (more advanced) as well as continued attendances at seminars both far and wide. Gained practical experience wherever and whenever I could and 'grew'. The NDTF Cert III Course proved to be a very good, broad, foundation base for all the other learning I take on.

Sorry - the 'deal' comes with a "no return" policy.

Without being able to see or know your dog, I can only 'guess' that what you're doing is correct, just as I can only 'guess' at why your dog is doing what he is. It is possible that the increased whining/crying is the dog going through the "extinction burst" which often occurs when its attention seeking activity is being ignored. As an analogy, think of the drink dispensing vending machine. Each day you put your money in and the machine delivers a can of drink. You develop an expectation that this will occur. But one day, the machine doesn't deliver the can of drink as you expect it should. So you kick the machine (ie the extinction burst). IF the machine still doesn't deliver the can of drink you might cuss at it but would (maybe after another kick or two) go off about your daily business. You might try the machine the next day, thinking that yesterday's events were a "one off". But it still doesn't deliver, even though you've kicked it harder this time (another extinction burst). Perhaps you try this the next day as well, but if it still doesn't deliver even though you've kicked AND shaken it (a final extinction burst), chances are you'll give up on it and not bother anymore - so, your extinction burst has peaked and 'extinction' of the behaviour is now achieved. BUT - let's just say that on the day the machine didn't work you kicked it and the machine DID deliver the can of drink. You would be thinking "oh, so that's what I need to do to get what I want". The following day, it didn't work, you kicked it as you did the day before (because you expected that is what you need to now do to get what you want) but it STILL didn't work. So you then kick AND shake it ...... and it works. Chances are, the next day you will put your money in AND kick AND shake the machine because you EXPECT it to work when you do that. This last is an example of someone who doesn't continue to ignore the dog's attempts to get what it expects to get. In otherwords, the person has 'quit' the extinction training BEFORE the extinction burst has peaked, and so the dog learns that trying harder IS worthwhile. Provided the dog's anxiety levels and circumstances are not of a state where the whole event is so traumatic as to become detrimental to the animal itself, extinction training is a method that often works. The problem is that extinction training is easily cancelled by the dog receiving, one day, the attention it wants for this previous activity. In other words, it is not necessarily a permanent cure if a mistake by the person occurs. Hope that all makes sense.

Yes - so I think the OP should give their puppy to me. RR = heartdog.

I don't believe taking away a dog's food does anything other than to teach the dog its valuable resource is under threat. It is not something that dogs within a well-balanced pack would do, regardless of who is perceived as the "top dog". However, because we bring dogs to live in our human world full of "no no's" that would not normally present a problem out in the wild, we do need to teach them that it is ok - our right - to remove food from their mouths. This prepares them not only for interaction with little children who know no better, as well as for those moments when our dogs pick up items/food that might be harmful to them. Yes - this is better (assuming the pup's behaviour hasn't elevated to aggression to this act). But in between this, I would actually have food that is 'boring' (eg kibble) in the bowl, and each time I put my hand to the bowl, I'd drop in a piece of something more tasty (eg. a bit of chicken). Repeat this in multiples until the dinner has been fed. In this way, not only are they then training the pup that them having their hand near/on the bowl is ok, but that it should be welcomed, because each time it does, pup receives a bonus!!! By doing this, they are helping to reverse the belief system of "loss" the pup has learnt will occur when hands are near the food bowl. ETA: Cute pups! And you have TWELVE of them?!!!!!!!

It might do.

Don't worry too much. You'll get there. And provided the 'mistakes' are not ones that will harm your pup/dog .... don't sweat too much on them - it will only take your focus away from doing things correctly.

L&L .... sorry - I meant her "eat command". Have you tried using a hand at her shoulder blades (at same time as using food to 'lure') to encourage her down and back into a drop from the stand? Sorry if this has already been covered in previous posts - if so, please ignore. If you do try this, make SURE that the palm of your hand 'cups' the shoulder blades (ie wither) rather than sitting behind the shoulder blades. This method is really only good for if the dog is coming into the drop from a stand, rather than from a sit position.

I know what you mean L&L. Try giving your girl "the word" just as you show her the food treat near her nose, and as her nose follows it, tell her "good girl" in a soft but encouraging voice (to let her know that you DO want her to try for the food). Or maybe you've already tried this?

Actually it does have beneficial effects (but for safety assured, keeps the dogs locked up! ). At their old property, my folks had a grape fruit tree that was sited over/near the septic tank. The septic tank developed a bit of a leakage over time ................................ sweetest and largest grape fruits ever!!!

Me too please....I'm not sick but I love a G&T Hey! A shot of Gin in my glass and you can have TWO bags!!!!! Seriously - if you live close enough, you can have some lemons ..... and I am not fussed what you use them for or for why. Besides, G & T = preventative medicine. PS .... must admit, I prefer Scotch and coke.

I'll bring you over a bag full. Oh ..... and some for Kowai too, seeing as she lives nearby you. Note: I did not have to pee on my lemon tree for it to produce ..... just in case people begin to think so . But I have often enough kept up the fertiliser (purchased from Bunnings and collected from local horse agistment place) and mulch to it and it also receives good sunlight throughout the day.

PS - If anyone needs lemons, I have a tree laden with them. Have been giving them away by the bag fulls.

Sorry this seems to have got worse for you since last time we communicated, MsJames. Hope health ends up on the up and up from here on. Way to go. Sorry to 'steal' your thread, Kowai. But I'm being an opportunist.

What Tony said . Dogs very easily pick up on when we're 'hoping for it' rather than when we 'mean it'. Sorry that you don't feel well Kowai - and it's frustrating when illness gets in the way of an event we've been working towards and hoping for success. Been there and done that when I used to compete with my horse in eventing. That was probably worse, because there is so much extra work involved in merely getting your horse to trials and home again. Take it easy, get over your illness. And in the meantime, when/if you need to put in a little bit of practice work - keep it short and make it easy - don't ask for anything that is too demanding or difficult. That way you can both have the wins you need and deserve. Stay warm.

I knew of the Assistance Dogs in Victoria, but didn't realise they trained them to scent/detect oncoming seizure activity. That's good to know. Thanks.

Give over, PDTS. I'm just asking a question, but you never seem to be able to accept that. My question being : why do you think that having a lead on necessarily has to equate with the "guide, show, place" method being employed? I stated "maybe I missed something" ..... I was actually treading carefully with you, and trying to leave the door open to perhaps my own error being a misunderstanding of what you've written. I have no idea where your response is coming from or what you're even trying to say here. I don't have to say anything about your "behavioural trainer" status - you've got that written under your avatar. ??????? Attractive dog, btw.

Do you attend obedience school? Reason I ask is because a picture is worth a thousand words and every dog is an individual so even though a 'method' might be written out (not without a lot of explanation), there are nuances, I find, that need adjusting to suit owner and dog combo. With good instruction and then with good practice, chances are your dog may not require a head collar for maintenance of control and results should be seen in the very short term.

Have I missed something? Merely having the lead on the dog doesn't equate with having to employ "guide, show and place" methods (not to suggest there's anything wrong with G,S & P done properly under tuition and if appropriate for the individual dog). ? L&L ..... sounds like a very generous offer to me and one worth taking up?

Promise to tell us how you get on with your enquiries?

Here's Steve's website Steve Austin Kennels

Try contacting Steve Austin. If anyone can steer you in the right direction, I'm sure it will be him. Poor little tyke (your nephew). Hope he finds what he needs and that this is something that as he matures will become less.

Yep - "dummy" runs are precisely what I mean. You could try both ..... I presume you are saying here that you have two cars? You've got a few options, but because these are just "dummy" runs to begin with and not indicative of anything of a permanent travelling nature, you could perhaps have one of your older children (don't know how old they are, so this will depend) or a friend or partner, in the back seat to sit quietly with your dog. Have it on a flat collar and lead. Or you can harness him in (using a dog harness - the type that click into your seat belt fitting). Or you can crate him. (Crate train first.) If he's not used to the latter two options though, I'd just try the first one. Don't want to complicate the issue with "new" things otherwise we might be wondering if it is those things that is then influencing his 'behaviour'.