Erny

I'd get thyroid levels checked. And not out here in Aus. I'd have the bloods sent for analysis to Dr Jean Dodds. To at least rule out thyroid dysfunction.

Ooh yes .... have heard quite a few good responses from people who have used Thrive D.

I found this amongst a list of Mandela's once upon a time medications. This is the one I would have been recommended by his Naturopath : Panaxea Australia “Epi-Gastro Enzyme Formula” (capsules) 1 x 2 capsules (prior to each meal) • Amylase 10,000 IU • Protease 10,000 IU • Lipase 1,700IU • Bromelains 30mg • Papain 30mg • Cellulase 40mg • Extract dry conc. (6:1) equiv to : Lindera strychnifolio – root 900mg Lonicera japonica – flower 600mg

I've only ever used EnzyPlex - for my previous avatar girl as well as for my current boy. It's been recommended to me by a few different Vets, so by the sounds of it, it is the one that is favoured - or perhaps it is that it is just more well known than any other. ETA: From memory, I think Mandela's naturopath had him on different digestive enzymes. If I can hunt down the name of them (I don't feed them to him any more for the time being) I'll post back here. I've a feeling they were in capsule form and I used to administer them a certain amount of time before his meal. There might also have been a Chinese variation of enzyme as well. Again, I will try to hunt down the name of them.

There is evidence. The training aid suits the dog. You see the results. Perhaps hearsay to those who don't have the experience of them.

Thanks Mrs RB and Huski. From your post Mrs RB, I had visions of the actual halter falling apart. My mistake I see. Sorry that I misread. I agree that plastic clips are unreliable (I don't even permit flat collar/plastic clip combos in my classes for this very reason) and that fail safes are certainly a recommendation. I too tend to use an over-sized check chain as a fail-safe for this purpose. They seem to do the job quite nicely. Save for a faulty plastic clip attachment - perhaps one which is already loose through wear and tear - I still would imagine there must be some sizable impact on the dog's head and neck for a head collar in good repair to give at the seams, so to speak. But it seems that what you're saying Mrs RB is that most of the dogs lunging are wearing faulty/state of disrepair head collars and they have therefore given way (thank goodness, IMO). But then, what of the dogs who have Head Collars in good state of repair and where the head collar has not given with the impact of momentum clashing with the sudden stop of a lead?

Hey Mrs. RB. Pardon me if you don't mind me asking about what you've said here (above quote). And I also hope the OP does not mind me veering on this tangent a little. I have never seen a dog break a head collar (whilst it was on), least of all the Gentle Leader. Yet your indication (the way I read it) is that you have seen numerous do this? The Gentle Leaders are robust head collars and IMO it would take a lot of force to have them break. The shock of that force MUST go somewhere and I can't imagine the path of least resistence would be anywhere other than the dog's skeletal and/or muscular structure. I am also curious to know how you know the dogs you have seen manage to lunge and consequently break a Gentle Leader Head Collar have not caused themselves any damage.

Thanks PF. Sorry - I'd missed your earlier post on this. Interesting. My boy still has his front dew claws and I see them move as he flexes and stretches his toes. So I can see the truth in what Christine Zink suggests.

That's an interesting concept and not one I have or would have thought about. Is there anything anywhere to suggest front dewclaw removal does have an affect on the structure of dogs?

Don't you believe it. There are thousands of people out there who hang on his every word. It's not their fault they don't know better. ETA : Just noticed you used the word "here". Sorry - you're right.

That's easier said than done unless you take out the new owner's emotional investment. ETA: What would the breeder be likely to do with a pup with those problems that the owner would not do?

Good on you, Teebs and Pax. It's people like you who make the world a nicer place .

If the check chain was being used properly, this shouldn't happen. The proper way to use a Check Chain is by applying a fast check. It should not be about your dog feeling it get tighter. But this is just a point to raise. For you, if you are finding the martingale works better, that's good. If a martingale is effective, I'd prefer that over a check chain anyway.

I saw a dog about 2 weeks or so ago. It was black and I do believe I saw some white on the paws. Not sure about white on the muzzle though - is that prominent on the one you have found? This one was snuffling in bush area but was at the front of a huuuuuuge property here in Berwick. It could have easily have come out through the fencing, but did not. Just seemed to continue to snuffle. I would not have even seen him if it wasn't for the fact of Mandela spotting him and lurching in his direction. Mandela gets a bit excited towards other dogs and as I didn't know the other dog, it was not being supervised and it was just on dusk which meant I couldn't see it clearly to be able to read its body language, so I didn't hang around to suss him out more. It was unusual to see a dog at that spot, although I did think it did possibly belong to the property owner. Do you have a photo of the dog you've found? If it fits the description of the one I've seen, I will pop back to the property where I first saw it and ask if it is theirs, if you would like me to.

Right now they are as skinny and as long as your little finger. That can be indicative of a narrowing of the large intestine or rectum (for whatever reason that might be). I know when I was searching to try to narrow down the source/reason for my own boy's problems, that I've read of the things you're mentioning and that it included stools becoming a shape like thin ribbon (is that what it is like?) but I can't track back to the very thing it was indicative of. Does your dog's anus look ok? Swollen? A bit red? Or just normal?

Agree. Great letter.

I've been looking after my sister's old dog (Bearded Collie - 15 years) for the past 3 weeks. The thought went through my mind at the beginning of his stay (ie "what if the worst happened on my shift?") and although she didn't voice it, I'm fairly certain my sister had thoughts of "what if something happens" as well. As someone has said - you can't put your life on hold indefinitely. Three weeks is not too long :D. One thing that both my sister and I know we'd both be thinking (even though we haven't voiced it) is that at least Monty is with someone he knows and trusts and would not be alone nor without the best of whatever care and attention I could provide and give. ETA: BTW ..... Monty has been absolutely fine and I truly think he's enjoyed his own little 'holiday' of 'something different' and of course, Mandela's company. The time has gone so quickly.

Yes - back in the days before Protection Training a dog came with all the terms and conditions that are now applied and make it difficult for anyone to work it (which IMO has lead to the advent of fearful dogs being put into protection roles, when they clearly should not be, because the reputable and great protection trainers just aren't out there as much now), the dog to be used, FIRST had to be well and thoroughly socialised to everything and everyone. Actually, "neutralised" would be the more appropriate term when it came to people, but in essence, the good protection dog had no fear, no hang ups, and was overall confident. I always felt quite safe around a well trained protection dog back in those days ...... provided I trusted the owner/handler . When they went into "guard and hold" or went into "attack" it went with a command and the dog took that as a reward. The generally fearful dog we see these days, who aggresses towards other dogs and/or people, is responding mainly if not only to its fear. It is not thinking with its fore brain, it is reacting to the demands of its hind brain. As you say - it is not in a good head space and I completely agree that these dogs are not good examples of great protection dogs.

but I love the expression "loose his banana" . Thanks JoeK. ETA: I'm not so sure about how confident I'd feel being in front of a protection dog knowing that the only thing between the dog's instinctual defence drive and my body being ripped was a "click" and a food treat. So I do think I see what you're saying, JoeK (I think) and tend to agree. But don't you think that protection training requires and has a different balance of drives than what we might generally see in a dog who is aggressing towards other dogs when out and about? I do think that the careful use of a click and treat goes a way to training a dog who is known to be aggro to other dogs, that aggression is not intrinsic to his/her survival and that there is a behavioural response that is more advantageous. I think this is a place to start. I think every case is different but I do think that 'pack' approval AND disapproval goes a long way to helping rehabilitation, at least once the dog knows a behaviour that is more favourable.

I thought the stock issue had resolved and that it was no longer a problem any more. I hope I'm right. Am about to run out of the Z/D Kibble soon and need to replenish.

I echo what PF has suggested. If it were my dog and he was out of sorts, I'd be inclined to run a health check on him. Dogs are stoic creatures and can easily camouflage pain or illness when in the presence of another/other dogs and/or when something exciting is on offer.

Yes - new Vet for a check up. But in the absence of anything coming up on the radar from that, try some gentle training. Start with some tricks or things that Indie knows and finds easy to do. But treat it (with your facial expression, body language and voice) as though he's just won the Olympics. Reward him with food treat, if he'll take it, and if he will, jackpot him more often than you otherwise might. Also, a bit of tug work (rules of drive training/tug apply) - but don't make it hard for him to win (but at the very least, pretend as though he's really trying). Nothing that demands a huge gust of energy. The point of all of this to raise his self-esteem, assuming that it is depression that is the cause of his weight loss. Good luck. I can imagine how worried you are.

Boiling water? Wouldn't that destroy some of the goodness in it? I thought the water was supposed to be warm. From what I've read up on it, it seems good food and I'd be happy to support it as a back-up to raw/natural, save that I've been unable to try it out because of my boy's digestive issues which seem to relate to his inability to process certain proteins and isn't anything to do with how good a food is or isn't. The people at K9 Natural here in Australia are really helpful and pleasant to deal with as well. Not that this makes for good food, but it is an added bonus :D.

It's not a matter of "getting over". It's a matter of "getting through". And you will. And you'll know you weren't the first to go through it, but you will feel as though your 'cut' is the deepest. And for you, it will be. But you'll know you're not alone as we are all here supporting you through this tough time. Hugs to Oscar.

"Grab" ??? Be careful not to to do so fast. I've seen head collars fitted as precisely to manufacturer specification as one could get and, with a dog who is particularly rambunctious, it still can rub. I've seen frequent enough damage caused to dogs through the use of Head Collars - ranging from mild through to severe. Can't say the same for PPCollars. I don't know why people are quick to suggest tuition in the use of a PPCollar yet are not as quick to suggest the same for Head Collars. I think tuition for both (in fact, tuition for all training collars) should be recommended. BUT, if there was no choice and a novice handler had to use either a PPCollar OR a Head Collar without tuition, I'd suggest the PPCollar. This is not to begin a "this is better than that" debate, but when more than one piece of equipment is referenced (especially in the same sentence/paragraph) I think it pays to discuss them both equally. To hint at a "con" for one but only mention a "pro" for another, can set people into the wrongful belief that there is danger in the use of one but not the other. ETA: Definitely agree with Mrs RB's suggestion of working at or behind threshold so your dog can win and you can reward, and also the recommendation to make an appointment to see Steve for a lesson (whether or not you use a PPCollar) .