Erny

This might be after I, on other different topics, have ever so elegantly (not) shoved my feet in mine, . But thank you .

I'm going through at least 5 cans of Z/D per day at the moment, for my boy. I hope the Z/D can supply don't become problematic.

Taking him out somewhere doesn't mean he must go off-lead.

I would suggest exercise variation is the key. A good free run; a good on-lead controlled jog interspersed with a sprint here and there; choosing landscapes that are sometimes flat and also sometimes hilly. All of this (in my unprofessional opinion) covers many, most if not all of the important muscle groups. ETA: Swimming is another form of exercise and in that you can include some walking at chest height water - don't over do it, keep it short sessions to begin with, as this latter form of exercise can be hard going on a select muscle group and your aim is not to shatter muscles, just to build them. I worked my dog at the beach in chest height walking exercises and I promise I noticed the (good) effect in my thigh and butt muscles, lol. (Mind you .... that's not to say anyone else did, ). When you add to your dog's exercise, consider this when feeding him. You can up the quantity of food to account for the extra energy he's expended. I agree that I think your dog is a bit underweight, but it's not just about putting fat on - it's about putting healthy weight on and I think that's what other posters referring to "putting on muscle" mean. So, increase the food quantity (move to a premium food - and note that premium food also means healthy natural feeding such as chicken frames; RMB's etc. etc) but also increase the exercise regime and try to supply some variation to it. I am actually delighted to NOT see an overweight Labrador :D and I reckon your dog will come up a treat with the combo of increased food and steady exercise. Know that your dog is probably less likely to suffer from being slightly underweight than he would by being overweight. ETA: There's something that looks uncomfortable about your dog in those two photographs. Is that just a once off posturing, or is it common place for him? My boy has digestive issues and when his tummy is uncomfortable his posture can immediately make it appear that he has lost weight. When he's comfortable his back is flat/straighter, he's not so tucked and he immediately appears to be more covered across the rib cage. ETA (looking yet again at the photos) .... or is it that you've needed to put some food down so that he would stand still for the photo's and that's what is making his stance that it is?

Hi My Sister has just dropped her dog "Monty" off - he's here to stay for 3 weeks whilst she is away. My sister will be having her 60th birthday whilst she's away (OS) and I was thinking about organising a portrait photograph of Monty, to have ready for her (if that's possible) for when she gets back. I did the same thing for her when my sister turned 50. Back then, she went OS for 5 weeks and again, I looked after Monty for the duration and I had a professional dog photographer come out for the same purpose. Back then I had Kal (my avatar girl, since passed, bhcs) and she was included in some of the photos. Then, Monty was about 4 or 5 years old. Now, Monty (a Bearded Collie) is 15 years old and of course Kal is not longer of 'this' world. But I have Mandela now (although I'm sure Monty - who is now quite profoundly deaf and whom Mandela keeps trying to get him to play - wishes I didn't, lol). So I thought a "10 year anniversary photo" would be a good birthday gift idea. But I'd need the photographer to come out to my home here in Berwick (Victoria) for it. It wouldn't be a 'running' photo - it would be a static pose .... Monty still gets around pretty well for a 15yo, but it's when and how he wants to do it, not how we might wish for a photo session. At that age, I figure "fair enough" too. I know there are some DOLer doggy photographers and I intend to look you up although I have to go hunting as I've forgotten DOL name -vs- real name. So I thought putting up this post might serve as a short cut to that. Anyone who wants or can steer me in the right direction is also welcome to post your comments and/or recommendations as well .

I would use Paw Paw Ointment instead of vaseline. And if you rub whatever remains on your hands under his chin or to some other part of his body he can get at, as soon as you've finished applying to the nose, it can help to take his attention away from licking it off his nose - at least until it has had SOME time to do some good. Not sure about the answers to your other questions. At a guess, I'd probably watch over the week to see whether it is improving or getting worse and allow that to dictate whether I'm on the right track or whether you need a Vet. Something else to consider is the cooler weather we are having. I didn't look to see what State you live in, but is it possible you've starting cranking the heater at night times in recent times and perhaps this is leading to dryness of the nose ??

I've heard a few unsavoury things in relation to the Guard Dog Training Centre, on this forum but not much, if anything, about other places. The truth of that I couldn't vouch for as I don't know it first hand. Regardless, I don't think there should be a generalisation about Boarding & Training. I provide this service as well and I'm very proud not only of the work that I KNOW first hand goes into working with dogs to bring out their best (in the best way possible) albeit in an amazingly short period of time, but of the care that is given to those dogs and the bond that builds between dog and trainer (in the instance of which I speak, that means me). I'm also proud of the care and attention the kennels whom I use for my services provide to those dogs. I find that 'my' dogs begin to thoroughly enjoy their training sessions. Not to say they don't enjoy them to begin with, but I see the dogs 'grow' and increasingly look forward to the sessions when they begin to understand what they are about. Even just the other week I had one of my B&T dogs favour coming with me for the training session, even though at the time she was in the midst of joining other dogs (who she loved playing with) for one of their (what is standard, for this kennel) play runs. So a blanket statement tarnishing all B&T is not only not accurate but is also not fair. I know that the people here on DOL are generally here because of the passion they share for their dogs and their dogs' training. And I say "kudos to them/you" for that. I think some of the best training comes from the dog's owners who can manage it with tuition. But some people don't share that same passion, but that's not to say they love their dogs any less than you do. They just might not have the immediate time to put in to the 'teaching' phase of training, or they might be having difficulties in getting through and around some issues that might just be made easier to work and deal with when someone else can put the time and dedication in. Would I want someone else working/training my dog? No - but that's because I'm well ensconced with my boy's training and I don't want it goofed around or confused. But other people might not have set up a training regime and this might be part of their problem. Starting off a training regime (with results the owner can easily see) can make it easier for people to carry on with. So whilst putting YOUR dog in for B&T might not be your cup of tea - and I can well appreciate that - to run down all B&T's would be similar to running down all kennels because of a bad apple or two (or three). However, as with kennelling and any other service that puts your dog into the care of someone else, you should shop around, ask around and be comfortable with your choice. If you couldn't be, then I'd say "don't". But that's not because B&T is a bad thing.

But how do you KNOW that the one who looks guilty is the "offender"?

I'm pleased to hear that, Staranais. Do you now how the NZ Veterinary Studies compare to the Oz Studies? Are they the same?

Yes - I have been to a few of Dr Bruce Syme's seminars and that discussion has come up. Seems people (in general) think that our dogs are living longer and longer, but that information has in more recent years been contradicted. I am glad the subject of Vaccinations in terms of "less is more" is there on the agenda.

That can be a really subjective impression based on what you're used to seeing, not how he should ideally be. It is ok to see the last or second last rib. It is good if there is a light covering over the ribs - enough where they don't stick out but not so much that you can't feel the ribs as you run your hands across the rib-cage. It is good if you can see a waste line (looking from above your dog). It is good if the undercarriage line rises as it goes towards the rear (looking side on to the dog). If your dog is active he should have good muscle tone. Obviously, optimum weight is the ideal, but it is better for the dog if it is a little under optimum than over. A side on photo and a photo from above your dog would be helpful.

Sorry - thought it was mine. . Last time I bring it up though - I was just unable to resist. Did not too. Well, maybe just a little .

Hey Huski ..... can Daisy get you to stop talking? Now THAT would be very clever!

Done . Cheers Erny

Lol ..... that's funny . You should try to capture it on film and use it as a "Funniest Home Video" contestant. Would beat all those other ones that rely on people hurting their valuable bits for a laugh.

Never even heard of them until you mentioned them here, Steve, so I'm not going to be of any help. I presume you need it for the dogs out in the fields? One thing that I was given as a Winter 'Tip' was to dig a hole big enough for the water container to sit in it half way down and then mound the soil up around the rest of the bowl/bucket/container that was standing above the hole. The soil temperature is a bit warmer by a degree or two and the soil can also act as an insulator. This might just be enough to stop the drinking water from freezing over. This might help you until you can source a heating pad??

I so agree with all that Dancinbcs has written here. When I'm not sure of my boy's appetite, I offer a smaller portion of food. He eats that (if things are going good) and then a bit later, I am inclined to offer a bit more. At one point I was feeding my boy 4 to 5 times a day, with smaller portions and this seemed a very successful way of increasing his appetite until I could back it down to 3 times a day and then back to his normal twice a day. And apart from not mixing food together so that you can find out what they like or don't like, I found I wasted quite a lot of food by mixing one with something else that put him off it. (Whereas there I was thinking that what he liked would over come what he didn't like - with fragile appetites, it doesn't tend to work that way.) Apart from which, if your dog is soooo hungry that she feels she must eat, mixing foods is potentially forcing her to eat the very thing that might cause a stomach upset. So mixing foods can create a negative whichever way you look at it. And definitely the last sentence. Just concentrate on getting the dog to eat. The weight will come later. You will find this approach less stressful for yourself as well. Something in addition : I have learnt to identify when my boy isn't 'in' to his food, before I've offered it to him. Sometimes but frequently enough, I find that if I go into full "Triangle of Temptation" training mode before I release him to his food, it will encourage him to eat it. I could go on to guess and ramble about why this might be so, but I don't think the reason much matters here - only that it does seem to help in many but not all occasions.

Looks like calm low drive dog. That's what I thought too, LL although the dog struck me as being "in drive" when released to the tug but not so much in drive in between times when the handler was asking for sit.

I tend to go for the "less is more" approach. IOW, I try the most benign before I reach for the chemical based treatments (although I'm not sure what Pyohex is). So I would try the Calendula Tea wash first. You should see an early improvement if it is going to work so it's not as though you are likely to waste weeks trying and it is also not as though it is a very expensive option. Cheap, yet in my experience, very effective for many skin issues. It does not strip the dog's skin of its protective oils and doesn't harm the natural pH levels. Flight, you said you took her to the Vet who prescribed prednisone tabs and antibiotics. Did the Vet say why she thought Prednisone and Antibiotics were necessary for the flakey skin? Anyway, try the Calendula. My boy has had some very dramatic skin issues - the Calendula Tea washes I gave him proved nothing short of miraculous. It was very quick to soothe the itch and I was amazed at the dramatic improvement in even just the space of 24 hours. Calendula also has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory qualities.

That is a lovely compliment - thanks Vicki. I am privileged to know Glenn, his work with dogs and to have had the opportunity to have worked under his guidance from time to time. Similarly, I have met Steve and as have many people, have heard him speak and watched him work. Both men are lovely people, love the dogs they work with and are very talented dog trainers. I have no doubt your dogs are in good hands with them and that you will be happy with the training your dog receives from them. Please say to both Glenn and Steve from me.

I haven't watched the video footage (yet) but you should give the dog plenty of 'wins'. If the dog never has wins, or even many of them, why would he bother or be enthused about playing the game. The key is that the 'game' is played by your rules. You start the game; you end the game. And the dog relinquishes the tug on command. The tug IS yours ..... your dog learns to work for it and understands YOU are what makes the tug 'alive'. And so the tug is not the dog's toy to have when you are not around. It only comes out when you are there.

Yep - I learnt that a seminar years ago. Oh gosh, I thought it was my idea . I was going to write it down and make it " Pro-K9's Pill Popping Protocol". (Lol .... I still will ). ETA: Difference in mine is that generally speaking I don't at any stage hide a pill in the food.

Some of them do. You think "injured" Aidan?

That's funny, Aidan. Vicki - does that dog exhibit those 'moves' on a (what do you call it?) "lead out" from the start line on a regular basis, or was it a one off?

Sounds very interesting, AB. What conference is it? IE Who are the speakers and who is it run by? (If it is in order to say.) Will be interested in hearing more on both the commercial foods and also the vaccinations.