Erny

I love to hear enthusiasm for training like this. You will experience numerous breakthroughs throughout your training with your dogs. Each one will be a milestone in itself and each one will deserve the celebration you will wish to give it. It might sound small to write about it, but I concur with you that it is really quite a huge and awesome feeling. Well done, and best wishes for many more .

When we say "growing pains" do we mean Panosteitis? Or is that something different again?

Yes - like stalls that sell specialty dog training books - not of the sort you'd pick up in an ordinary book store, but of the sort that you'd only or mainly find on-line. And natural remedy stalls. These are the sort of stalls that our Melbourne Expo used to have, until they made the stall holding fee so high that many of these people dipped out. Prior to that it was great to shop the 'old fashioned way' where you could look, take a peek, feel ..... and still these things were sold at a good value price.

On his way through, would he drop in 2 x big water bowls please?

Unless she has changed the "Protocol" ??? ETA : I acknowledge that she does not intend it for the purpose of training a stay, but that is what it does. If you re-read my earlier post, I've already acknowledged that, although in different words. As I said - this is stay work. The difference is that the stay work, once learnt, will be used to specifically assist in behaviour rehabilitation and it has been written as a program for that end, rather than a program for stay work (although I see one leading to the other and if necessary, vice versa) for stay work's sake. It is taught to the dog in the least stressful way. She does say to NB : Mind you, as for the last, if the dog is not used to a head collar the wearing of this in itself could be a stressor. ETA: Either way, I think I've answered the question which was the purpose behind this thread - from my pov anyway.

Hey Lab_Rat. Can't remember if you've previous mentioned - do you know what it is your dog's allergic to? Two things that have helped immensley for mine (and I think you know how bad his skin issues were) : Finding his thyroid imbalance and correcting it. After much mucking around, putting him on Hills Science Z/D (prescription) diet. From there I periodically try him on different protein sources to note what and how he reacts to them. It's expensive but it has helped immensely to stabilise his system while I dot around trying to find out if there is ANY protein source he can tolerate. And of course you would already know that I used the Calendula Tea to relieve the allergy symptoms and keep them at bay. Did you know that Dr Jean Dodds is coming out with a "new breakthrough" in digestive system tests? I'm on her list for when it is released and will be certain to let others know here what it's about when I know.

But when you think about it, many and much of our obedience training goes to 'calming'. Whether this is by way of the dog learning self-control; learning to 'settle'; learning to focus; .... all of these things can mean different things or the same. In some cases we might not teach the exercises with a view to the dog's emotional aspect - instead we teach it because we want these attributes in our dogs because they are handy. In other cases we might teach exercises because it provides the dog with mental stimulation, which in turn goes to all those other descriptions I've already mentioned (ie self-control etc). And in other cases, we might not particularly have need for the dog to exhibit the exercises for any purpose of our own, but they can go towards helping in the rehabilitation of a dog whose mind is too busy and doesn't know how to shut off and, of course, they can go towards helping the dog learn self-control in situations where otherwise self-control was not even in the dog's radar.

That's what needs to be clarified. What methods have been prescribed to teach the dog to relax on a tether? Also - is it NILIF the trainer is prescribing, or is it total withdrawal of attention for 2 weeks (save for feeding and general care)? FruFru - you are assuming these things are being taught in the way and manner you understand they should be. Conversely, we can't assume that this is not what was intended. If the methods are as harsh as what I know these can be, then I don't agree that "many other trainers suggest" these. But it is up to the OP to gain clarity to exactly what and how the trainer seeks to apply these things.

Aussielover - it's just a day by day sequence of exercises. First day is a sit for 5 seconds, then 10 seconds. A sit while you take a step back, return and then 2 steps back. A sit for 10 seconds whilst you take 2 steps to the right and return; 2 steps to the left and return. It goes on and on for each day, each day expecting more of the dog and building the intensity gradually, until you are running around the dog; walking over the dog; going out of sight of the dog; humming (I tend to talk and sing - I want my dogs to learn to identify with the release command and not respond to me merely opening my mouth) and so on and so forth.

I do exercises similarly with the dogs I work with. In the teaching phase I give a lot of feed-back. As they get to understand what it is I want they naturally relax and grow confident and I don't need to provide as much consistent feed-back, until I alter something, then the feed-back increases again, until that too becomes a 'known'. I might not do it exactly as Karen Prior does, but it is not completely unlike it. But I don't call it a "protocol". It's just what I do. I don't even do it the same with every dog - I tend to do what I need to do in accordance with what dog I'm working with. I don't even consciously think to myself "hey, maybe I should try this or that protocol". I just work and I guess much of what I do is a sub-conscious reflex in accordance with what I recognise the dog needs. I do it in the name of training for obedience and I also train obedience in the name of "behaviour rehabilitation". Maybe it's because I don't have a PhD that I haven't written out an exact formula and attached a label to it . Watered down, it really is only about teaching, training and proofing phases of training stay work. So whilst you might be asking who uses "Karen Overall's Relaxation Protocol", there might not be many affirmative answers because there's a huge chance that many or all of them use the strategy, but in their own name and in their own albeit similar ways. ETA: Karen refers to it as a "Relaxation Protocol". To me it is about teaching the dog 'stay' work and building up reliability in it. ETA: In behaviour modification, I use whatever the dog knows/has been trained for, in any shape or form that I think will assist in changing unwanted behaviour. What I use depends on the behaviour, the intensity and how strong the trained skills are by comparison, and whether it fits the situation I'm in. If the dog doesn't have the skills, I use other techniques and in the meanwhile work on building skills (or tutoring owners to build the skills) that will assist in whatever problematic behaviour is being described/exhibited.

A friend's housemate had Dogtech out to her dog at least 10 years ago. Anxiety and human aggro was the issue. Tethering was one of the things suggested to her back then too. My friend, whose dog had no particular issue, was instructed the same thing. I'm not sure how tethering increases relaxation but I can see how it would be handy to teach your dog to relax when on tether. There is a difference between withdrawing all attention -vs- withholding attention and giving it only on your own terms (ie when the dog does something for you first .... which is to a good extent NILIF). Withholding attention completely (save for feeding the dog and generally only doing what you must do for the dog's physical health - but this does not include walks though) is IMO a pretty harsh technique. I have used it once or twice for aggro towards family members, but carefully. So perhaps you have misunderstood your trainer and maybe it is the "ignore and give attention on your terms and not where your dog can perceive to have instigated or demanded it" ??? If that's the case, I can see the value in that. With the older dogs - how old are they? Are they in good health? What do yo mean by "hassle"?

The Sebastian dog bowls. A person who makes Doggy PJ's (one of our DOLers ) and who would be happy to take the measurements on the spot and make to order, if there are no PJ's that would suit your dog at the time. Someone who sells those dog toys I saw someone on DOL here had bought. One is a "Poo Toy" and the other is a "Wee Toy". Despite their names they are cute and I haven't been able to find where they are sold from.

Approx 10 kilometres and about 1.20 minutes. Sometimes longer if we stop more - and that depends on what the weather is like and what time of day it is. But mostly we tend to stride out and walk purposeful when we are out on lead. I'm 5'7" and my dog is a tall RR. One day it dawned on me that it was ok to sometimes dawdle and take time to smell the roses .

It's not just about keeping it simple - it's about keeping it pure. Soap, no matter how gentle, plays a part in stripping oils from the coat and potentially altering the skin's natural pH balance. I tend to find that more than the infusion itself is not necessary.

Ok - this is what I do : A clump (equates roughly to one or two tablespoons) of Calendula. Put it in a coffee plunger (see photo). If you don't have a coffee plunger you can put the Calendula in the toe of a stocking and dangle it into a cup or bowl, as you would a tea bag. That's what I used to do, until I had an moment recently. The plunger method is a lot easier. - this is one I prepared earlier. In this instance it is not for my dog - it is for me to drink , but there is no difference in preparation. Pour in hot water and allow to infuse until the water is cool. Discard the Calendula and use the tea/broth. To apply : Use a flannel, saturated in the stuff, and wet up the coat to the skin, rubbing all over (or applying on areas of skin that are irritated). At most, I might lightly towel off if my dog is dripping, to save the mess inside the house, but other than that, leave it to dry in. Alternative (for large areas that need a good soak) : Fill the bath-tub with 2 inches of water. The water should be hot as it can be (but don't put dog in yet ). Get a stocking and cut the toe end off to 'long-sock' length. Put a big clump (my techno terms ) - this might equate to a fist full - in the stocking and tie the open end off. Toss it in the bath tub of hot water and leave it bounce in there until the water cools to at least tepid. Put your dog in the bath tub (put anti-slip mats in for the dog's sake and also to protect the surface of your tub) and use the stocking with the Calendula in it to wet your dog to soaking, just as you would use a sponge. Lightly towel off excess moisture and leave to dry. This latter method I used when my boy was suffering (a) a body full of hives and also when (b) he had inter-digital cysts. I found it easier and better for getting all over and in crevices. It also ensured that he had a thorough soaking. In between times, I just used the 'sponge bath' method. I would not use Calendula "soap". IMO, the pure Calendula Tea is all you need and adding soap to it isn't necessary nor necessarily good for the skin.

Calendula Tea wash !!!!!! Truly ruly . at you, Staranais.

I wouldn't be thinking OCD if the barking only occurs at a specific time of the day. I don't know Cam Day to comment.

In most instances, out of the two I prefer the tape. It is visual (which I think can prove to be less stressful from the early outset) and it means the dog doesn't have to be wearing a collar for it to work. BUT .... it's the placement of the tape that needs careful thought. I wouldn't put it on top of the fence because once she's there, one of two things will happen : she'll either career over to the other side with the sheer surprise of it, or career backwards with the sheer surprise of it. I'd be inclined to position the tape where she is first likely to touch it and before she's done a launch. You need to also be careful not to place it so that she can get herself caught between the tape and the fence - consider this if you were thinking about off-setting it from the fence. Oh - and I didn't think to look at where you reside before I began this post, so you need to check what the laws are in respect to the use of electric fencing for dogs. And use the fence unit at the lower amp than you would for horses or cattle. I've been 'punched' by an electric fence. My Dad didn't "feel sick" for me ......... he laughed. The sensation lasted for a split second. And I lived. With no scars. But I was very careful about leaning near fencing without first checking for electric fences since .

3rd on Four Paws K9 Training http://www.fourpawsk9training.com.au/

Don't mind me. I should stop and read things properly first . Sorry.

Ok - so all (or most) other times are ok in training, save for when Echo sees other dogs and this bloke and dog in particular? You just need a management technique and a training technique to get you through and past this hurdle. It isn't insurmountable, so take heart. There are all sorts of different ways of approaching this, but I don't know you nor your dog, which makes it really hard if not impossible to suggest over the internet. (Lol .... one of the things that would be great to teach Echo would be to turn to you and sit, when he hears that guy chanting - what an idiot he seems. This is not necessarily as impossible as it might sound.) BUT, Steve (K9 Pro) is going back up to Queensland soon. Don't know what the 'deal' is but perhaps if you can arrange to get in to see him for a private lesson, he should be able to help you. Refer this link : http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=217846 . Once you have a technique that will help you manage and also know how to train for your goal, you are going to feel a tonne better about and for Echo. In the meantime, know that this is just a glitch on the radar - something of a challenge for you to work your way around and through and when you do, you'll understand Echo all the more for the experience .

If you brew up some Calendula Tea and wet up a flannel with it. Rub the saturated flannel into his coat to his skin. It will refresh him, he'll smell fresh and the Calendula Tea has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory qualities so, whilst you need to keep the stitches dry, if a little gets on the spot it won't do major harm.

What about putting to the Vet the points you've raised AND adding to that, that given it is your dog that is (theoretically) at risk, you'd be ready, willing and able to sign a waiver to say that you won't hold them accountable should your dog pick up any of the diseases for which a C5 covers. Quickly add in that you would very much appreciate their agreement because you really feel very comfortable with this club and enjoy the instruction the instructor gives.

Stop it !!!!! Stop it !!!!! Another lot of labby puppies??? !!! How am I supposed to resist???!!!

There's also Adrenal sex hormone responsive dermatosis (mind you, that's not to say there's not 101 other things it could be either). I suspect (but don't know) that this, being hormonal, could be connected to the thyroid as well. Link to the above (and other things) relating to hair loss conditions is : http://www.lowchensaustralia.com/health/hairloss.htm Me? I would insist on a Dr Jean Dodds Thryoid 5 Plus test above all else. I won't push or harp, but I do offer you to contact me should you need some help on how to arrange this, or to ask me any questions about it - I'm more than happy to assist where I can :D. You are so right, Donna. I've had a couple of Vets roll their eyes at me for insisting my young boy be tested for Hypothyroidism. There he was, looking a picture of health with shining coat; tonnes of energy; and lean. His problem was/is digestive issues but the initial Vets I saw did not see a dog whose clinical symptoms fitted Hypothyroid. But I went ahead and as it turns out, he was hypothyroid and although we're not completely resolved yet, he is much, much better. I felt a bit stupid along the way, but I am very pleased with my decision to insist. If I had been wrong .... - yes, I would have done my dough.