piper

I used to travel from Adelaide to Melbourne a few times a year for agility, stay in a tent and feed raw. And when doing my CGC instructors course I was away for nearly 2 weeks and managed raw. I would take 2 bone meals with me in an esky, frozen. They would do the first and second night. I bought Vets All Natural as it was easier to manage when away than veggie miz. So an ice cream container of dry VAN plus a spare container to make it up in. I would also take tins of sardines to mix with that. So third night would be VAN with sardines. After that I would hit a supermarket and get whatever offal or bones I could get and use that for the next night and would basically alternate going to the shops with a night of VAN if away longer than 5 days. For the CGC course we did have access to some refridgeration so I took 2 or 3 days worth of bones/offal with me.

That would be great Rivsky if you don't mind. Would give me some incentive to attend a trial at some stage to collect them. And maybe enter Jazz while I am at it!

No eating the bird! Good dog! Socialised dog:

Just hanging about with her boy: Destroying a toy: Caught in the act! Early training: Came back when called: Poster girls for Aussie Dog Another caught in the act: Loving the sprinkler (back in the days when we could use it!)

2 small and 2 medium please

Mine all cope with whichever clicker I am using. Box clicker and iclick do sound quite different but it doesn't sweem to cause too much trouble, although I do try to use just 1 while conditioning it then once they get it they seem to generalise it fine. Some people worry about dogs responding to other peoples clickers but none of mine have done that, they may flick an ear at the start of class but soon tune it out and only respond to mine.

I'm not sure what my vet recommends as he just happily does what I ask for in the way of vaccs. In 16 years he has never pressured me in regards to what vaccs to give and in fact about 12 - 14 years ago, so well before the 3 year idea came about, I was worried about not being able to afford a vacc when it was due and his staff told me then not to fuss as I could probably get another year safely so a month or 2 would not matter. He is also quite ssupportive of raw diets and seems more concerned about the appearance when discussing diet - as in he will say they look and feel great so don't change it. He is a bit of a hike from where you are Norskgra but I am happy to share his details if you don;t mind a drive to Gawler. I also like the fact he listens and takes what I say on board and doesn't treat me like an idiot, and never has.

I'm with Persephone - not something I would do. As well as company for each other it can turn into "double trouble". I had some people enrol in classes with me several years ago now with 2 labradors that together had done thousands upon thousands of dollars damage to their yard. Everything was turned into a tug toy by these pups! As for introducing a cat - it depends on your dog's temperament as to if it will be aggressive and how the introduction is managed. When I lived at home with my parents Mum decided she wanted a cat - we had 3 dogs at the time. 2 of them were 9 and 10 and had lived with a cat for a brief period when young (the 9 year old would not have been 12 months when that cat died of old age) and Piper was 4 and had never lived with a cat. We brought the kitten home and put it in a large dog crate in the lounge room and left it there to settle for awhile. The dogs were kept occupied outside for an hour or so. I then took dogs in 1 at a time armed with a clicker and a large number of high value treats. Piper however upset my plan and charged in ahead of me - saw this alien creature, freaked out and took off out of the lounge room. Once I had calmed her down we worked on clicking for calm behaviour around the kitten in the crate, and I treated the kitten as well. I did the same with the others and for the next few days if the dogs were in the kitten was in the crate and someone was nearby rewarding dogs and kitten for calm behaviour. When we first went to letting kitten out we went back to only 1 dog inside at a time and rewarding for calm. All up it took lees than a week for kitten to accept dogs and vice verse. We never had any chasing or problems like that as right from the word go they were rewarded for calm behaviour. Within 2 or 3 weeks Piper and kitten were best of friends and I have picutre of them rolling around on the ground wrestling each other.

I think you would have a few customers if you were stocking it locally.

Oh Group Five I am so sorry to read this. Fellow was a beautiful boy and will live on in your heart.

I know the feeling Dova. My thoughts on the 2 options you gave would be Terry Ryan first as the other does regular training weekends. Terry Ryan will most likely not do a seminar like this again in SA, or possible even in Australia. I am hoping to get to the Terry Ryan weekend. A good seminar may get me enthused about trainign again, been ages since I felt like taking classes.

This came across an email list I am on and I thought there might be people here interested in attending. 19th & 20th June 2010 Coaching People to Train their Dogs 2 day instructors course featuring Terry Ryan CPDT-KA Adelaide Shores Function Complex Coaching People to Train their Dogs How to Conduct Effective Training Classes This instructor's course is an excellent foundation for new instructors, whether vet nurses running puppy classes, club instructors (competition or pet), and pet dog trainers. It is also great for experienced instructors and professional dog trainers as a forum for exchanging ideas, combating instructor burnout, or just seeing what's new or different. Information includes:  People skills and class organisation  Tips to structure classes for the specific needs of your community  A variety of orientation strategies will be discussed. Should dogs attend the first night of class or not?  Instructional formatting — e.g. what are your objectives, how do you measure your success? Should your course be time or goal driven? Should you offer single topic classes? How about "levels" classes?  The art of listening, learning to observe, effective communication, learning styles, lateral and critical thinking exercises, depth and breadth of knowledge, criteria for selecting training techniques & equipment, and what to do about your dropout rate.  Utilising your area to the maximum, traffic control strategies, effective use of assistants and options for last class activities will be covered.  Learn about helpful organisations and networking opportunities. This seminar is interactive. Students will get an idea of how effective various training techniques are by participating in exercises such as "Pavlov's Dog" and "What Humans Teach/What Canines Learn". The full information and registration details can be found at: http://www.petagog.net/workshops.htm

I strongly agree with this statement. The handler needs to learn how to do it and it is also about developing the bond between owner and dog - having someone else do the training does not do this at all. Also as dog's don't generalise very well they may well go home and not generalise the learnt behaviour to the other environment. If they have a history of pulling on a leash, jumping up etc working in set locations (eg home and the walk around the block) then they will possibly revert back to their previous learnt behaviour for those loactions and the handler not having learnt how to train these issues themselves may struggle to get the dog to do as asked. Far more effective IMO to work with a good trainer together with your dog so that both you and the dog learn together.

Hopefully Ness will see this and pop in as it is over her way so she may have vet recommendations. They are near the freeway so have easy access to the Adelaide Hills -Scholars in Collars do training classes at Mt Barker and other locations, a bit of a hike but due to the freeway not too difficult to get to http://www.scholarsincollars.com.au/about.html Alexis also does behaviour consults and is a great trainer with a lot of experience. Otherwise: http://www.petdogtraining.com.au/home.html are in the eastern suburbs, not sure where they hold their classes. There are actually not any obedience clubs over that way. I think this would be their closest club http://www.positivelydogs.com/about.htm that I can think of. Otherwise SAODC in the parklands near town - http://www.sadogobedience.org.au/

Try here http://www.holdfastdogs.org.au/aboutus.htm They would only be about 5 mins away from Somerton Park and run pet dog classes for puppies and adults.

There was 1 in SA some years ago now that managed his masters title in agility, along with show and other performance titles - Ch Caprivi Inside Edge CDX ADM JDX ET

Nope - I am sure there are other places with tubs like that. I just did a quick google of large plastic tubs and that was what I found. Good luck, it can be done. Finding the tub will probably be the hardest part.

If you don't want a coated breed what about a GSP or Visla? They do well in dog sports.

Something like this is what she had: http://www.spacepac.com.au/Brochures/Troll...Tubs_1pg_np.pdf And I see no reason why it couldn't be rigged up on a stand so that water containers and pump could be underneath it similar to what I said the other friends had done. I just remembered something I saw at a pet expo... Fidos do what is basically a hydrobath "shell" It is at the bottome of this page and you could easily hook own pump up to it. http://www.mavlab.com.au/fidos_hybath.html It was a couple of years ago so no idea now what the price was. eta: just found this place with them http://www.itsadogshop.com/prod1666.htm

G'day Thankyou for your replies , what I am after is something that ends up more like an actual hydrobath and that will not end up with me having a bath as well as my hound. Any thoughts / plans / ideas on what I can build the sides of a DIY Hydrobath out of? Thanks Another friend when she was starting out and couldn't afford a hydro purchased some great big plastic tub - not sure where from. It was easily big enough for her BC to be bathed in and the sides deep like on a normal hydro. She took it to somewhere that could cut plastic and had them cut a section out of 1 end so the dog could be placed in without having to lift over the top and also had a hole cut in for a drain. In her case she was just running hoses from an attachment in the laundry rather than a pump. I have no idea where she got the tub from but I think it was an industrial plastics type place.

Friends of mine had a simple and effective homemade hydro. They had an old bath tub they mounted on a frame (or now days you can buy a booster bath), a pump. Some hoses and a couple of big plastic tubs. One for wash water and one for rinse. If they wanted to recylce the wash water they put the tub under the drain, if not they moved it to the side. When it was time to rinse they would swap the hose into the other container that was always away from the drain so there was fresh rinse water. It was not an expensive setup but it did the job and still does over 10 years down the track.

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Uhh wow, that is scary! I responded with only by disposition and only if someone is directly at threat of harm. Size and breed don't make a dog dangerous. My comment at the end was about punishing the irresponsible owner and not the unfortunate animal who had the misfortune of being owned by them... I made some very similar coments as well - breed and size do not make a dangerous dog. It is the irresponsible owners who should be penalised, it is not the dog's fault a secure area is not provided.

5 dogs and 5 different techniques in our place (well only 3 current dogs, but the 2 oldies used to have unique methods as well) I think they all work it out but may empty it different ways. Ricky used to be the classic - he worked out how to throw it and would throw it and watch where it bounced for the food to fall out. He would even bounce it off of the walls to get things out. You could give him a kong with no food and he would still throw it and check where it bounced. He LOVED his kong more than any other. Reagan was just a licker, sometimes he wuold use his paws to hold it and otehr times he would end up sliding across the ground following it as it got away from him due to licking. Jazz is a pusher and chaser - sort of like Ricky but minus the throwing. She will give it a nudge and follow along to see what happens. Jessi is a chomper - she just lays thers and holds it with her paws and chews and occasionally has a lick or nudges it. Piper is the most versatile at kong emptying. She employs a combination of methods. She will work at it with her teeth or tongue for a bit and then deliberately turn it over or stand it up then go back to getting stuff out. She will push it around if needed to get things moving or just lay there and lick if there is something stuck in there. So I would say with your dog that if he is emptying the Kong then he may have it and he may like pushing it around the house and checking out what drops. Over time he may get more efficient at emptying it or he may continue to use the current method. I like watching the different ways they use their paws and noses and teeth and tongues to empty a kong