huski

Thanks for the clarification on Leerburg guys - I remember a thread that talked about it but I wasn't 100% sure!

Isn't it Leerburg who also hits a dog over the head with a shovel as a way with dealing with aggression? I'm pretty sure it was Midol who saw him do it on a DVD of his.

may i ask why??? Just the feedback that I've gotten, I know a few people who have done the Melbourne block training and loved it, and people who have done the Sydney block training and feel they didn't get as much out of it as those who did it in Melbourne.

Hey HH - is Asher crate trained at all? You might want to consider getting him one now so he can get used to it before the op. Micha loves his crate, and whilst I'm sure not all Sibes will be like this, didn't even need proper crate training - he sleeps in his for hours and was happy in there for ages when I took him to a training seminar.

You and me both! And it's all good - Bec can stay with me since I'm right near there too.... she already has a dog exactly like Zero, she doesn't need another one Hehe, how on Earth could I decide between Morgan and Zero cuddles??? Having talked to some other NDTF students about it, I think I might do my block weeks in Melbourne not Sydney. Sorry guys!

Damn, wish I had remembered the obedience was on at Durack yesterday!! I should have gone to watch Congratulations Ptolomy, what an amazing achievement!!

I know many a trainer and behaviourist who have handled severely aggressive dogs without needing to resort to such heavy handed methods. There are more options when it comes to handling aggressive dogs than cutting off their oxygen supply or having them PTS

Totally agree. Perhaps I'm too "soft" but the idea of cutting off my dog's oxygen when he is so fearful that he acts aggressively makes me feel physically sick. And yes, it gives people who use corrections (like myself!) a bad name, there is a difference between giving a correction and what Rex thinks is an appropriate way to handle all aggressive dogs.

Totally agree with your post here, Staranais,

I was told that the problem you run into when purely relying on corrections to manage aggression is that the next time the dog goes to aggress it simply won't show any of the warning signs that you corrected it for before it attempts to attack another dog. I certainly know giving one 'almighty leash correction' wouldn't have helped my fear aggressive dog, who was aggressive because he was under confident, correcting/punishing him so heavily would not have helped him feel more confident around other dogs. I also agree with DeeLee that once some dogs set their sight on another dog the adrenalin rush they experience is too high for them to be affected by a leash correction, even a harsh "almighty" one. ETA: When my dog sees another dog and displays aggressive behaviour that is fear driven, IMO it is not as simple as being "serious disobedience". Assuming that one heavy handed method would work to perfection with all dogs who display aggression is simply short sighted, IMO.

PRS - not sure how much you know about clicker training but the clicker is used as a marker - a way to signal to the dog that they've done the right thing and a treat/reward is coming. I find it makes communicating to the dog much easier!

Not sure on the details yet, but I will see my cousin on Monday so I can ask her all about it then. Apparently the vet said there was a high likelihood of the same thing happening to his other knee.

I voted for Cherry who does have allergy problems, with food and fleas (she has terrible reactions to flea bites). However, my other two dogs have never had allergy problems (thank god!).

Congratulations on getting a beagle! And welcome to DOL - you should post some puppy pics in the photo forum ;) My tips would be: 1) Start as you mean to go on and give him clear rules and boundaries from day one 2) Feed him a good diet! 3) Training training training - Beagles need training, both so they can grow up to have good doggy manners but also to keep them mentally stimulated. They can be very naughty pups. Pulling on the leash and lack of focus (because they always want to have their nose on the ground!) are two common problems I hear from beagle owners. I would be enrolling a good puppy school and ensuring you socialise him as much as possible with a variety of new, positive experiences between now and the next four weeks (most pups go into their first fear period around 12 weeks of age) - and remember that training continues for the life of the dog not just after puppy school has finished

Just to update this thread. Harry recovered well from his surgery and healed nicely, however I just found out that today he broke his other back knee Poor little love. He's the loveliest dog and was so easy to keep crated all day, I know if it was Daisy she would whinge and carry on being crated for hours every day but Harry sits in there happily. Here's hoping he recovers quickly with this knee!

I haven't see Dr Kilmarten myself but I have used another vet that works at his practice and she's fantastic :D I also know many DOLers and doggy people who see Dr Kilmarten specifically for injuries as he's got a very good reputation

I've seen Stilwell use and recommend head collars, not sure if people would class those as 'physical' punishment but they are definitely an aversive tool.

HH - if you haven't already, I'd be taking Asher to see Dr Kilmarten at Animal Options. They are in Ormeau so shouldn't be too far a drive from the Gold Coast. http://www.animaloptions.com.au/

QUESTIONS 1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc) First time owner, my beagle is 2 1/2 years old. 2. Where and why was the breed first developed? Beagle type dogs can be traced back as early as 400BC in Greece and 200AD in Britain. The Romans are thought to have transported them to England as small rabbit hunting hounds and bred them with local hounds. Talbot Hounds were brought to England from France in 1066 and are considered to be the ancestors to the Southern Hound, the Beagle and the Foxhound. Beagles became popular with the British monarchy in the 1300 and 1400s. Both Edward II and Henry VII kept packs of Glove Beagles. By the 1400s Beagles existed in Britain, Italy, Greece and France. The word "beagle" has two possible origins. It either originated from the word 'beag' which means small or from the French word 'begle' meaning 'useless or of little value' (;) LOL). By the 1700s two types of hounds existed for hunting rabbits; the Southern hound and the much quicker North Country Beagle. Since fox hunting was becoming increasingly popular, Beagles were being kept less and less in favour of Foxhounds. Fortunately for the Beagle, farmers in England, Ireland and Wales continued to keep packs to hunt with. Traditionally it is said that the rich man kept a pack of foxhounds and hunted on horseback where the horses could keep up with Foxhounds in pursuit. The poorer man kept packs of Beagles, because they had fewer horses and pursued the packs of Beagles on foot. In the mid 1800s Reverend Phillip Honeywood established his pack of Beagles in Essex, England, which is thought to be the progenitor of the modern Beagle. He bred them specifically for hunting skills and a fellow Englishman, Thomas Johnson, was responsible for breeding lines of Beagles that could both hunt and looked more refined and attractive. By 1887 the threat of extinction was on the wane: there were only 18 Beagle packs in England. The Beagle Club was formed in 1890 and the first standard drawn up at the same time. The following year the Association of Masters of Harriers and Beagles was formed. Both organisations aimed to further the best interests of the breed, and both were keen to produce a standard type of Beagle. By 1902 the number of packs had risen to 44. The Beagle Club in the UK held its first show in 1896. 3. How common is it in Australia? The breed is relatively common. Beagles have always been a fairly popular family pet. 4. What is the average lifespan? Easily 12-15 years, although I've heard of Beagles who've lived up to the age of 21! 5. What is the general temperament/personality? The breed standard describes the Beagle as a "merry hound". That really encapsulates Beagles for me, they are happy, sociable little dogs that enjoy both the company of humans and other animals. They should have an even temper and an outgoing, friendly nature. Beagles can make great family dogs for the right family, as Caffiend42 says, they are the 'goldilocks' dog - not too big, not too small, just right They are a great size and temperament for kids. Whilst intelligent dogs who are generally quick to learn with the right motivation, they are, however, renowned for their stubborn streak. They can also be VERY strong willed and unbelievably persistent when they want something. This combined with their intelligence can give both inexperienced and experienced handler a bit of a challenge! They can also be very food driven which can be both useful and frustrating! Daisy will go to any lengths to get food. She will gorge herself and is always hungry She checks every day to make sure I closed the lid on the cat food container properly, the one day it wasn't closed on all four corners of the container she opened it and ate more than a kilo of cat food in minutes - and only stopped because I caught her! However, this food drive makes training easier if you use it to your benefit. They can be a vocal hound and the 'Beagle bay' is infamous. Obviously being a scent hound, for most beagles there is nothing better than putting their nose to the ground and following a scent. It's an incredibly strong, ingrained instinct. This means that letting them off leash in uncontained areas can be dangerous as when a beagle goes into full scent drive their hearing is all but turned off and they won't hear you calling them - all they can focus on is the scent. I've heard many a incident where a beagle has followed their nose across the road without even realising there are cars coming. This can also make training interesting - despite Daisy being incredibly food driven, I could shove food under her nose when she's on a scent and she won't even notice it. If considering adding a beagle to your home you have to be prepared for their urge and instinct to put their nose to the ground and scent. 6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult? For a smaller dog, beagles are quite active. They need to have both physical and mental stimulation or they will become bored and destructive - beagles prefer company. I aim to give Daisy at least half an hour of walking a day, however, as she's matured I've found she doesn't require quite as much exercise and has calmed down considerably. 7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with? Possibly, but Beagles can be a challenge and there are plenty in pounds and rescues across the country to reinforce the fact they are not for everyone. You need to be prepared to meet their all their physical and mental needs, a Beagle needs strict boundaries or they will take advantage. They need regular exercise and LOTS of training. Often, they are the kind of dog that will wake up every morning and ask if the rules are still the same as they were yesterday. Do not underestimate the amount of work owning a beagle can often entail. They have loving beautiful natures but are also an active, drivey hound. 8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods? Generally no. Beagles are a breed that need company, otherwise they can get bored and destructive. That's not to say they can't be kept occupied and happy on their own, but generally Beagles do better in multi dog families. 9. How much grooming is required? Not much at all, they are short coated and don't require much brushing or bathing. They do however shed more than you will expect for a dog with such a short coat!! 10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)? Younger beagles can get excited around other people, however Daisy has always been great around kids and infirm people. They would require basic training to ensure they don't jump up on people but then again so do many dogs! 11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of? Whilst they are generally a healthy breed, Beagles can be prone to cherry eye. They can also be prone to ear infections as their long floppy ears mean they don't get much air flow and most beagles will need their ears cleaned fairly regularly to prevent infection. Due to their high food drive they can also be prone to obesity. 12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be) To the best of my knowledge there aren't many health tests that beagle breeders perform. However, you should always make sure that if you aren't going through a rescue that you buy your beagle from a reputable, ethical registered breeder and that you are supplied with pedigree papers. Whilst beagles can be a healthy breed a poorly bred beagle can be prone to a variety of health problems.

Will definitely take you up on the offer Pooey if I do the course, especially with that gorgeous Field pup in your sig

I can only speak for myself and my limited experience, but I prefer to teach the pup no biting/mouthing on me at all. Teaching them biting/mouthing is ok as long as their gentle, then hoping they will grow out of it, sounds a bit backwards to me I've met adult dogs who still bite/mouth because their owners thought they would grow out of it but they never did and as the dog became bigger and stronger it became a real problem. With Daisy I would redirect her to a toy she was allowed to mouth, I found it helpful to not only teach her what she couldn't do but also teach her what she could do.

My mum and sister are fairly inconsistent. For example - they know my release word for the dogs when they are waiting for their dinner is 'ok' but for some reason it's really hard for them to remember and half the time they both stand there saying "Go" to which Daisy normally sits there and looks confused mum will just keep gesturing and saying 'Go! GO!' until Daisy finally realises she's releasing her (annoying for me!). So last night mum went to give Daisy dinner scraps from her plate and dropped a piece of steak fat into her bowl, without telling Daisy to stay or anything obviously assuming that Daisy would just eat it. As mum chucked the steak into her bowl, Daisy automatically fell into place at mum's heel and mum walked away thinking that Daisy was eating, and she stayed sitting looking up at mum who didn't even realise what Daisy was doing Mum was half way to the kitchen when I asked her if she was going to give Daisy the ok to eat

Is it the sound of the cars that give him a fright or something? If he's slipping his collar the first thing I would suggest is to get him a limited slip/martingale collar ASAP. At least that way he can't slip his collar again. Is there a reason why she won't consult a trainer about his problems?

Me too, which is why I'm really keen to know more I'm not 100% sure on what the dates intakes are for students wanting to do the distance course are, but I'm thinking early next year might be the right timing for me.

I've done a search on the forum and read all the threads I could find but I'm wanting to hear more from people who've done the NDTF cert three course in dog training and behaviour, preferably by distance. I am really interested in doing the course sometime in the next year - not to become a dog trainer but more for my benefit. Is it worth doing if you just want to expand your own knowledge and improve your handling skills? Or is it more for people who work with dogs professionally and want to become qualified trainers? Also, how do people who've done it by distance find the course? Do you feel like you miss out on a bit compared to people who do it face to face? Do you still get a lot from the two block sessions of prac work?