dancinbcs

I was actually very disappointed in the movie. I have seen much funnier things happen at dogs shows than what happened in the movie. They just missed out on so many things about shows that seem bizarre to the general public. It could have been so much better with more research.

Me too. Stunning dog. Some of the others were very nice dogs as well but the Bloodhound was the standout.

Camarna Kennels at Austral run the best Puppy School I know of. Highly recommend them.

You aren't pregnant are you? I have seen male dogs suddenly become very protective of pregnant owners before.

Close to that area are some of the main vets used by breeders. This is the other practice owned by Austral Vets. Canley Heights Veterinary Clinic (02) 9604 9300 Shop 6 Harden Street & Avoca Road, Canley Heights

Absolutely. Some vets with a large client base prefer to keep costs down to a minimum to encourage owners to seek treatments early rather than later so the animals are easier to treat. Also overheads depending on where the vet is located are one of the biggest cost factors. I use one of the very best vets Sydney, who are used by many breeders and their prices are about half what the average "pet vet" 20km closer to the centre of Sydney charges. Real estate being rented or purchased determines a lot of what a vet needs to charge to cover costs. Advertising is also expensive and if a vet needs to advertise that has to be factored in. My vets have more than enough clients to keep them and the team of vets who work for them busy all the time without advertising. My vets do not cut corners or compromise health. They do not offer a "side order" of options and use the safest anaesthetics on all patients but my last spey 2 years ago was only $170 for an 8 year old 20kg dog.

Hate to mention this but some dogs are destructive all their lives, others eventually grow out of it around middle age. My first destructo dog ate her bed every night for 3 years and chewed everything else within reach, including door frames, garden tools and even aluminium plates. Even at 10 she would still chew selected items. By the time the next destructo dog came along I had learnt a lot. The first priority is to always provide lots of things they are allowed to chew. Bones, chew sticks, beefhide, lumps of wood and lots of cheap toys that they can destroy to their heart's content. You cannot teach a chewer not to chew but you can teach them what to chew. I keep a toy basket full of stuff for the dogs and they are praised every time they go to it to select something to chew or play with. If they even look like chewing something they shouldn't the get growled at so they understand that anything other than in the toy basket is not their's. By making sure my second destruco dog always had something available to chew on, I greatly reduced the damage to other items and the dog was happier. Every puppy since has learnt to use the toy basket and we have had very little damage by any dog since. With the wooden outdoor furniture, try "Crib Stop" from a produce store. It is made to be painted on wooden stables to stop horses chewing and cribbing on them. Most dogs hate the taste.

Check to see if his papers are marked "Not for Export". If so he cannot be taken out of the country. If you do take him to Macau, then it has to be a permanent because getting him out of there again would be very complicated and expensive with quarantine.

Do the neighbours have a new dog or is there a dog hanging around. I have one that pees on the bathroom floor if he is stressed or worried about new dogs being about. He can go a couple of years without doing it but then all of a sudden it will happen several times in a few weeks. If we shut the bathroom door he doesn't go anywhere else.

The NSW Companion Animal Act states: 16 Offences where dog attacks person or animal (1) If a dog rushes at, attacks, bites, harasses or chases any person or animal (other than vermin), whether or not any injury is caused to the person or animal: (a) the owner of the dog, or (b) if the owner is not present at the time of the offence and another person who is of or above the age of 16 years is in charge of the dog at that time—that other person, is guilty of an offence. (2) It is not an offence under this section if the incident occurred: (a) as a result of the dog being teased, mistreated, attacked or otherwise provoked, or (b) as a result of the person or animal trespassing on the property on which the dog was being kept, or © as a result of the dog acting in reasonable defence of a person or property, or (d) in the course of lawful hunting, or (e) in the course of the working of stock by the dog or the training of the dog in the working of stock. So in NSW the dog would not be in any trouble if the cat trespassed into the yard.

I assume you mean that you are trying to transfer the registration into your name, not register the puppy because that can only be done by the breeder. There is no online option to transfer registration because you need to send in the original registration certificate with the transfer signed on the back by the breeder to have it processed.

I had one dog that couldn't tolerate bones until I took him off dry food. The combination was the problem. When we moved to all raw he was fine.

Thanks for the feedback everyone. What a shame they don't seem to have managed to get up and running. The email contact I had for them has also not responded.

A Choc/white and pink BC should look interesting. Don't think I would be using Condy's on a white footed dog. My vet recommends Metho for toughening pads.

Turkey necks are the most favourite meal and best digested in this house, when I can get them. None of my BCs have ever thrown up after eating them. My only problem with them is that they are usually bigger than a standard meal for my dogs so I have to cut down on other stuff to be able to feed them or I end up with fat dogs.

Size wise I would be worried about how a border would really deal with the sort of rough play the Lab and GSD get up to. The full on, 40+ kilo shepherd racing up to the 30 kilo lab, only to be body slammed away with a very audible thud. Their play style, just from the dogs I have met personally, doesn't seem like it would mesh well with this? :D love the photos. They are another dog I just love the look of. What is their coat like also? Seems like there is a wide variety in Border Collie coats. If body slamming play is a requirement then get an Aussie. They play like that but Border Collies never do and take great offence at it. Coat on both breeds is pretty easy. They shed twice a year not every day like Labs and GSDs. A monthly bath and half an hour brush per week is fine for most Borders and Aussies.

A Border Collie would certainly fit the bill provided you get the right puppy. Temperament, drive, loyalty and activity level vary a lot even in the same litter so being matched to the right puppy would be vital. Another breed you may not have thought of is a Hungarian Vizsla. Again you would need the right puppy but some of them make fantastic obedience and performance dogs. A devoted gundog that is lighter framed than a Lab.

If she wasn't used to being inside then everything about the house will be scary. Most breeders try to bring their puppies into the house at times to get them used to household noises and to just being inside a house. The bit about her sooking before leaving the breeder is also a bit of a concern. Sooky puppies are usually like that from the start, it is not something that suddenly starts at 8 weeks. I would be a getting a vet check just to be sure that nothing else is going on. Are her parents DNA tested for TNS ?

Priceless Pets For flea treatments Priceless Pets are usually the cheapest and have great service.

Same here. Mince in tiny balls fed to each one individually for a couple of days, then mixed with warm water to form a slurry so they learn to lap. Then I gradually add soaked puppy kibble to the mix until it is about 70% with the mince just 30%. From 5 weeks I start to add variety with eggs, tuna or salmon, etc and give di-vetelact as a drink as mum's milk starts to decrease. At 6 weeks I soak the dry food less and less until they eat it dry and introduce chicken wings and hard biscuits to chew on.

They love cranberry juice and barley with the water it is cooked in is also excellent for relieving UTIs.

If you are really serious about breeding, select a breed and go to some dogs shows, preferably Breed Specialty shows or Royals where they have bigger numbers of the breed. Buy a catalogue and study the dogs. Talk to people and tell them you are interested in getting into the breed and try to find someone with lots of experience that you find easy to talk to. Ask lots of questions about the dogs and they will talk to you for hours and hours. Study the breed profiles here on DOL, try to to find photos (google) of prominent dogs from the breed and study the pedigrees. Study the breed standard that can be looked up on the ANKC website. Compare all the dogs you see and old photos to what the standard says. Keep asking questions and hanging around dog shows. Offer to help out at shows, even if it is just holding dogs outside the ring and watch how the dogs are groomed and handled. Keep asking questions and let it be known that you are after a puppy. After a few shows people will start to realise you are serious and there will usually be a few who offer to help you find a really good puppy to start with and hopefully the one who does or the breeder of your puppy will become your mentor. It is easier to get a nice male to show because breeders usually keep more females for themselves. If you start with a male show him and build up a good reputation. Join the breed club and go to meetings. Once people know and trust you it is much easier to get a good female. Sometimes a newcomer will be offered a female puppy first in partnership with their mentor and this can be a great arrangement, just make sure you really like and trust the person. You don't need a breeders prefix until you have your first female. This is the time to organise that and read as much as you can on dog breeding. So at a minimum you will have been involved in the breed for at least a couple of years before planning your first litter. I had 5 years of showing/obedience before breeding my first litter. By this stage you should understand the breed standard, know all about health testing, bloodlines within the breed and different types bred by different lines. You also need to understand basic dog structure and movement and be able to recognise any structural faults that will affect how a dog functions. A good and experienced mentor will still be needed to discuss what all those names on the pedigrees are about. They will be able to tell you what those dogs were really like and what problems or virtues can be attributed to which dog. A lot of the research can be done before you even get your first puppy. There is a young Doler who plans to breed my breed and she is being mentored by a me and another breeder. She has done heaps of research already, attended shows, studied photos and pedigrees and is still a couple of years off being in a position to actually get a puppy. By the time she is ready she will have no problem getting off to a good start with lots of help because she is already showing a huge dedication to the breed.

Normal pack behaviour. You are top of the pack so if you eat first they understand that you get first pick of the food and they have to wait their turn. If you feed them first then it becomes their turn to eat so they feel entitled to all food that comes after their's as well.

As the title says, has anyone had ASAP do their CEA testing? If so what was the service like?

Same here. Do mum one day after each fortnightly puppy worming (starting at 10 days)and I use drontal for puppies and mum. The syrup is useless.