SkySoaringMagpie

If the aim is to steer him away from a DD Mrs Rusty Bucket's website may not help - it recommended DD's as "breeds" in the results I got.

PF makes good points here about the distances/distraction levels involved. My guess is that a dog that has advanced to reliable bite work would be in the top tiny per cent of dogs of its breed in terms of its trainer's ability and its own suitability for such training. Plenty of GSDs and Mals never make it that far. I know people who course who will pet out sighthounds that have poor recall so I think something similar would go on there. Is the dog at that level because its trainer is awesome, or is it at that level because the dog is naturally highly suitable, or is it a combination of those? I don't think there's a single answer for everydog but IME, there are sighthounds who shut down everything else while coursing prey including injuries that would stop most dogs in their tracks.

The independent personaliy is a very big part of it, which I think is why Afghans and Salukis particularly can be challenging. Sighthounds also vary, and some of the old open field coursing books go into the relative merits of each breed with biddability being a factor. Salukis for example, are considered excellent long range hunters but one author felt their major drawback was getting a reliable recall on them. Should see if I can dig out the book tonight and post that section. That said, my icon picture was taken in our front paddock and I was playing a recall game with him at the time. Basically he does a huge loop of the paddock, I call him back to me, reward, and release again and he does another huge loop. He cares enough about me and the reward to come back on each loop - plus he knows there's a good chance he'll be released again for more running and it's a huge fun game for him.

I can think of a DOLer who sometimes posts here who has excellent recall on her sighthounds, including in a paddock with a lure coursing machine, which is no mean feat. However, that DOLer is an experienced trainer. Reliability is a combination of things. I think it is possible to train a reliable recall on a Saluki or an Afghan in the same way that it is possible to finish the London marathon. It can be done, but most people struggle because your technique has to be very good and you have to know the breed well. Let's face it, most people struggle with recall on dogs that aren't as hard wired AND as physically equipped as a sighthound. This question came up in the Saluki Breed 101 thread so I guess I'll say here what I said there. It can be done, but most people can't do it. So when Sighthound people say "your dog must always be on a leash in public" they are not being defeatist, they are being realistic about the combination of human limitations and breed characteristics. Number one cause of death in Salukis in North America is being hit by cars. I know you're not suggesting that it's easy, but one thing that bothers me about some of these threads is the risk of very experienced people forgetting what it's like to be your average bog standard dog owner and saying "well it's possible for me". It may be, but advice is always a case of risk assessment. On the flip side I would never say to a sighthound owner "don't bother". I'd say, this is my routine: - Always reward attention and recalls - Don't recall for unpleasant tasks like medicating and grooming - go and get the dog - Use the sighthound love of running to put the "fun" in recalls - With puppies and adolescents, go and get them on a leash if they don't respond to calls - Do a lot of recall and release It falls apart under heavy distraction, I'll be the first to say as much, but they are reliable in the house and yards without prey or other people's dogs around. We use recalls a lot for ensuring polite running in the yard and polite behaviour in the house.

Absolutely yes. If it can save other dogs and their staff/guardians/owner from going through the same thing i think it's a no brainer. As PF mentions, ideally I would want the body after examination to be cremated and returned to me.

I didn't see it but based on the responses and the fact it was from a first time poster with a dodgy sounding name it was probably sledging dressed up as a question. I don't think we've missed anything.

What state are you in?

Thanks Bully, I ended up recommending the Turid Rugaas book and Ian Dunbar's "Woof/Shush" factsheet. I looked up the book Ernie wasn't all that impressed with and found the one reviewer on Amazon also thought it wasn't that useful. Just looked at your link for "The Bark Stops Here" and noticed it also has a poor review on Dogwise. Did you like it?

If you're on Facebook and want to see regular sets of gorgeous foxhound/hunt photos type in "Hunting Photography by Sarah Farnsworth" You can also see her work here: http://www.safphoto.co.uk/

Congratulations!! The first one is a special one.

I've run into this "not for dogs" rule before, I just switched butchers. Strikes me as a bit odd, but I just shift my business where it's wanted. We do usually buy "human" food at the same time, I actively avoid buying supermarket meat, so perhaps that is why we've only run into the problem once.

Agree with the others, I find with our dogs that the male is calmer and quieter if he can see the bitch - so if she or he is crated in the living area for example. The dog in the yard with the bitch in the house in heat is a set up guaranteed to fry your nerves and those of your neighbours. Ultimately tho', for those 3 or 4 days when the male goes completely stupid, I think a boarding kennel is the best idea. It's not unusual for the male to stop eating. I had a male even stop drinking for 24 hours once, had to take him for a long walk away from the girl. He's better these days thank god but this is really a management problem not a training problem in my view.

Sky prawns!

Agree with better quality kibble. Do you have a photo you can post? If he's just a bit of a ribby youngster I wouldn't fret too much providing he is eating regularly and is healthy. Dogs from the same litter can look REALLY different and not all of it is how they are kept. I also think that in show world anyway, there is too much emphasis on trying to make adolescent dogs look like fully developed adults. It's perfectly natural for a young dog to be a bit light on compared to a 5 year old. With his food, I would get into a routine of taking it up after half an hour and not giving him any more until the next mealtime - and don't fuss. I know it's hard, but he will eat when he is hungry and some dogs can become fussy because their owners start to fret about how much they are eating or they feed too many tidbits between meals. Rather than putting oil in his food I'd drop a tin of cheap sardines in olive oil or mackeral in oil on his kibble a couple of times a week.

Most people recommend "Really Reliable Recall" or "Control Unleashed" for recall and offleash control. Is there any equivalent "bible" for managing barking? I have only ever had one problem with barking which was situational and is now fixed. I need to suggest some research and reading for someone who has quite complicated barking problems. They want to retain alarm barking but get rid of attention seeking barking. Is this realistic? Any reference material to suggest?

It's a labour of love for most breeders and some also hold down a full time job. Not everyone has time to talk to people at length in between keeping house, having a relationship with your family and friends and making sure all your dogs are happy and healthy and doing all the work involved in competing in conformation and other dog sports. I have no idea how breeders with kids and a full time job do it - I take my hat off to them. I think a clear message on a website indicating what form of initial contact you prefer is a great idea. I personally hate the phone for initial inquiries and far prefer email because then I can manage my very limited time properly. Being interrupted at home by the phone after spending 9 hours in the office at work is a pain. I believe I am polite but I'm sure I sound tired and less than enthusiastic. Speaking as a club official, I get the impression that some people forget that others have to work full time for a living. Perhaps what might help is directing people who aren't sure they want that breed to the relevant breed 101 thread here first, and suggesting they come back after having done some research of their own.

Given the choice, I'd pick a 25 point challenge certificate over positive feedback. I know my dogs' good points and bad points already. I know my own foibles and strong points as well. The point I am trying to make is that what is rewarding to me may not be rewarding to someone else, and vice versa. If ribbons and certificates are all it takes to keep people coming back and entering shows I'll buy them and write them even if I don't give a fat rodents rear myself. Edited for grammar

Check my post in the horrendous handling moments thread. I was the queen of the shocking stack

As a Sec I've run into a number of newbies who are thrilled with a ribbon to show their Mum and Dad or friends or whatever. Yes people need to focus on improving their handling, understanding their breed etc but the ribbons are there for a reason as well. If I am forewarned that a newbie is there we'll make a fuss. Last October our steward and the show manager teed up with the judge to hand out ribbons to a new exhibitor at our club at her first show. Sure, we don't usually because it would be a waste, but for this exhibitor it meant something and more importantly, she is still showing. If a ribbon or an RCC card is part of keeping people coming back I'm happy to supply one. Having said that, personally speaking my third show and first challenge certificate was a 7 pointer, and I was just thrilled. I had no idea at that stage about the derision heaped on 6 point certificates, had no idea I could collect a ribbon if I wanted one, and no idea I should collect the certificate either. Fortunately an experienced exhibitor had me under her wing that day and told me to go to the office to collect it. If I hadn't had that mentor tho', I can see that someone spotting the newb and offering me a challenge ribbon would have meant a lot to me. SBT123, perhaps your newbies don't need a ribbon because they have you - not everyone has someone experienced behind them the first few times.

We have six and work full time. We do not let the younger ones run together when we are not around for a combination of reasons. One is that two of them are resource guarders. Another reason which probably isn't as pertinent to terriers is that even in fun play they can injure themselves seriously if they don't have good internal brakes and brains (check the sighthound thread for a recent discussion on this). I am not a fan of all day crating so our younger ones are in purpose built dog runs during the day where they can either snooze on their bed or get up and walk/pee/play with toys. They can also see each other, they just can't hoon around. They get their morning meal in kongs or buster cubes which gives them something to do while we are at work plus we exercise them before we leave so they spend a lot of time snoozing. The two eldest ones are fully mature and have brains and no organic temperament issues - they can be left alone together without any worry. So the above is our full management plan if that makes sense. Our routine for not at home is easier than our at home routine to be honest. Edited: I'm not sure what our neighbours think on bustercube mornings when we leave and there is the echoey sound of 4 buster cubes regularly hitting the sides of the runs

We're all familiar with the idea that different dogs respond to different motivators. Humans also get different things out of showing their dogs and find different things motivating. I had never even heard of such a thing as a RCC certificate, but we do have ribbons and they are obviously important to some exhibitors. For me from the Secretary's perspective it's about the whole experience of the club's show along with not having a used coffee mug as a prize and making sure the people in the tent are friendly and the catalogue is accurate etc. Looking out for newbies and kids and making sure they get a record of their win to keep them motivated is something I see as part of my role and the role of all committee members. I don't extend that to other exhibitors, they help newies in other ways.

You can come and watch my class at 9am on Sunday if you like. Best to leave Indira at home so you can concentrate on observing.

This thread is so gorgeous, and now I feel guilty for not telling a proper story!

Also, if you want to make friends with them, do not look at them and talk at them in a silly voice unless they are six months old. Your older Saluki will make friends if you ignore them for 10 minutes then reach out your hand for them to sniff without looking at them. If they don't back off, you can venture a pat. Remember, even if you are the Saluki's staff you are a mere infidel, if you're not their staff you're even less worthy of their attention What do most people not know about Afghans? That they are devious and entertaining bastards who pretend to be daft and blonde while they thieve the best toys and tidbits.

From what I can tell it doesn't matter whether it is for commercial or personal use if you can keep the item under $1000 in AUD at the time of export, your pretty much in the clear no duty or GST, as long as there aren't multiple shipments in a short space of time... I have no idea what a short space of time is. I haven't really seen much info at all regardless of comercial or personal, there doesn't seem to be a difference. Yes, that is what I was saying, but I was probably unclear when I said "personal goods fall under that threshold" by that I mean "are usually worth less than $1000" not "there is a category of personal goods that sits under that provision". I think T-time might be harking back to a time when there were more gift concessions around but the threshold was lower and varied depending on whether the stuff came in by air/sea or post. Now it's easy to understand - if it's under $1000 you're OK unless it's booze/ciggies. If it's over you pay (unless it's GST exempt and/or a tariff concession applies). So it's always good to get advice direct from the authorised experts. GetWhippet, Myschafis now has numbers for people in NSW Customs who can help her with tariff stuff. Short tariffs can be handy but only if they are kept up to date by specialists. if not they can get out of date quickly and no-one likes to make a false statement. I can't believe I'm talking about this on DOL