cramet

feed ur dog in the crate when he finishes let him out for a while then give him a bone in the crate once he has finsihed let him out and slowly build up the time untill u can leave for what ever ur time untill he goes in on comand use food to lure the dog in he may sook for a while but dont let in unless the dog is over stressed or is not coping they have a nack of making u feel bad to get there own way so dont give in to it to early

there use to be a guy in mortlake in vic that did pit rescue but dont know his name or if he is still there

2m by 4 or 5m is a agood size for one dog so make 2 of them and you will be set you dont want to make them any smaller or bigger if there to big they will get to active to small and they cant strech there legs and matrials you can use just about any thing sturdy mine are made out of industrial gates put in tube post or treated pine post in and use heavy guage cyclone fencing or if you can get you hands on some temp fenching get enough panels to suit another option is to call you local farm or industrial fencer in and get him to make the size you want out of tube frame and cyclone wire

as long as you set the rule there is nothing wrong with playing tug u just teach the dog that the only time he is aloud to play tug is when u say so and same when u finish i will always use the same item when i play tug wether it be a rolled up rag or a tug toy or a tug rope if the dog decides to start its own game you just tell the dog "No" or what ever ur word is to tell the dog he has does somin u dont like

best thing to do would be to get in contact with a security company that you are interestedin working for that does K9 work show your are interest and get involved with there training doesnt have to be the bitework side but show your intrest have a look at there dogs you might see and speak to the handlers of the dogs and think i like breed B better than bread A and if they dont have a prefered contact for that breed start ringing working breeders there is a few on spec canine that are more than willing to help one way or the other and food for thought if the company offers you one of there dogs get it checked by a indipendent trainer that deals with bite work that way you cant be duped in to taking a dud or a dog thats not suitabul or needs to be fixed of problem that the old owners has created

havnt seen the knpv line dogs worked but have seen the fci ones they are nice dogs i would own one, one day if i have the chance to they have the niceness i like in a working dog

will she let go or "out" on command if she doesnt it is a good this to practus (spl) if you dog "outs" then u can play switch/swap games very easily u can do this 2 ways eather by playing fetch or playing tug il use the tug method since thats what use want to achive but the same still applies when playing fetch u start the game and when its time to stop tugging you hold tug still untill the dog "outs" on command or let goes on its own (ur choice ur game) once the dog lets go you start the game again with the new tug/toy but dont play the tug for to long 30odd sec or so at the start and you play the game for a few minutes and come back later on and have another go (when u are happy with what u are seeing when the dog is playing tugging make the sessions longer but take ur time) a good tip for starting the game is to make quick movements and a sound i like to use "pssssss" as the trigger also quick games of keeping off is a good why to make ur dog possive but make sure u monitor it because if u do it to long the dog will eather loose interest quickly or narky depending on the temp of the dog

i dont do IPO or sch but i know there is a suttle diffence but not much hopefully some one that competes can fill in the blanks from my understanding of the the 2 are IPO is run buy the FCI sch is run by the SV

lol i know that feeling i was just hoping not to come across eather too strong of cut u off

ppd and security dogs are trained using prey also it not until the dog has devoloped enough and assessed to handle using a little defence AKA civil work that it will happen a lot of methods used in schutzhund are the same for PPD and security but once you get to a certin level of trianing it becomes like a fork in the road for security i need to take the dog in this direction and sch i need to go in that direction and on the flip side if you are confident enough as a handler and have a good trainer and training director at the club it is possibul do both with out checking iam not sure if the BRT is on the list if its not it is still wurth going down to the club and talking to the training director about joining as some clubs will still train diff breed but the down side is you may not be able to do national or state tital (spl) just club trials so dont rule out not having a go with it

welcome to the world of belgians and there little qurks she might be bored best thing is to give her a job doesnt mater if its agility or frisbe or obd

just a thought you could also make ur self a scent wall to use this will only work is u have imprinted the scent into the dog u have a wall with a few diff hole cut or drilled into it make sure its more than 1 hole other wise its pointless then go to the plumbing store and get some y junctions and small section of pipe big enough for a ball u put a cap on one side of the junction and leave the other open u put the scent in the caped of peice and with the opened end u use a second person or make a trap door for the ball and as soon as the dog does a positve alerts u release the ball if the dog misses finish the search of then set the dog up and start again every time u use the scent board u have to clean it down so there isnt any old scent to go of on the search (the dog will never get a positive hit if u dont and u will make life very hard for ur self training wise) scent wall scent wall parts

sounds like she has lernt to active alert instead of passive in high drive dog the active is easier to achive for them because it can be a release as well as a reward for them if thats the case it can take a while to retrain the passive because u are bracking a lernt habbit but since i havnt trained for passive alert i wouldnt know what steps needed to take to change the alert

hello hello all thought il come and see what was going on

the working muzzle u are thinking of are call german basket muzzle they are made out of leather and are designed to not come off at all cost due to the training they are used in were as the wire basket muzzle has a grill like the grey hound ones but are attach to the collar or have ther own collar system most vets or pet shop have them at a reasonbul cost were as the german muzzle are very very very expensive but with training use nice food like other have said and start with slipping it on then of briefly then the next session make it say a minute when u have done 10 if u have a slip up distract the dog with some thing fun then have another go or try again later that day when u leave it on longer you can do obd with it on to help take the dogs mind of it some dog take to them easy some dont as long as u build them up and take the negitive aspect of it away it will be fine

thanks jeff il have to looking into it might be able to get a gang togeather that are interested in his research and his past time

i ve never seen or read any of his stuff befor any more info about the guy all i have found is the 3 books he has written any thing about his back ground in training would be great

most dogs trained and untrained will base there reaction of the other persons body langue(spl) dogs can read human body lan just as well as other dog its just with protection dogs u take it one step further and put a que with it

most dog will react of the bad guys actions if the badguy comes at the handler showing agression in the body and voice the dog reacts its the way they are trained there is more to it but thats the very shortend vers there has be cases in the states were the handler has dies and the dog wouldnt let any one near the body the only were to move the dog is to put it down or get a person that the dog knows well top move it along

all dog that are planed for protection work should be socialised like any other puppies if not more in the world of police and militry and protection work if ur dog cant go some were because it has issuse that dog will eather be sold on depending on how bad the problem is or retrained you want a dog that can handel people being friendly and miss gided as well as a angre/drunk numb skull the dog has to be a ALL ROUNDER not matter what

this should be interesting jeff i wouldnt mind seeing this as well hearing the results hmmm i wonder if jnr would be up for it ill have to find out one day lol

get a saddle maker to make one up for you that way you can choose the width and length of the lead that suits u and the price is reasonabul as well i use a 25mm wide X 6ft long lead for my rotty the reason i have it so wide is i have big hands and i find it rest nicly i know that width wont suit many peope hands but thats an example

for what he wants there isnt much availibul but if he is still at school he might still be able to do work exp with the MWD program or police dog section he can do it thought the school gidance pragram or ring and talk to the departments himself other wise he could speack to some of the local security companys that do K9 patrols and ask if he cold attend training sessions with there trainers be in mind though with security K9s you have you good companys and you bad

this is a bit of topic but why does desexing get mentioned every time a dog has some sorta agression a hell of a lot of the time its a learnt behavior to me it sounds like the dog need to be shown its boundrys

what do you need it for do you need it for training or a "just in case muzzle" that will also depend on what type of muzzle you need if its a "just in case muzzle" you would get away with a good quality wire muzzle and you can get them from most good pet shops but other wise i second the leather ones from dogquip