Steve

Hang on - it wouldnt matter what the breeders goals are - a ribbon, money, to let the kids see the joy of an animal giving birth blah blah blah - its what you are prepared to compromise on in order to get that which counts. You can target any group and find those in that group who are mucking it up its not just those who breed dogs and who are involved in showing. There are many other registries in this country than the ANKC and one other all breeds registry which hasnt as far as I can see divided membership.

P.S. Dont believe me? Go to google and type in beaglier - images. Many [most] of them will pass for beagles.

The term backyard breeder is just another one of those stupid things that has been introduced and is used over and over and makes little sense. Everyone has a different definition and people who are on the "outside" don't have a clue as to what it is that's wrong with breeding dogs in a back yard.After all arent we yelling about mass production, keeping dogs in kennels etc ? Isnt breeding dogs in your back yard better? We use it to denigrate a breeder we don't like just as we use the term puppy farmer .Its used for registered breeders as well as breeders who are not registered. Some people use it to describe those who dont register their dogs with the CC no matter how well they do it. Some use it to describe a breeder who registers their dogs but doesnt test. Some use to describe someone who uses only their own dogs for matings rather than looking outside for what they feel would be a more suited rather than convenient match. Some use it to describe someone who registers their dogs but doesnt show. Some use it to describe someone who breeds DDs At some magical number of dogs owned or litters bred it changes over to a puppy farmer - who we assume doesn't breed dogs in their back yard. For me its about knowledge, and an understanding of what you may be compromising on [ for the dog and the families who will take them] and having the resources and motivation to try to cut down the risks. Its about breeding dogs with science rather than breeding with luck.To do that with a purebred you have to know as much about the ancestors and extended family of the dog as well as being able to use latest screening and genetic testing AND having enough dogs to be able to take one out of the gene pool if something does turn up How many breeders in this country or possibly world wide who have this knowledge or understand WHAT knowledge and what action is needed? That's because even as late as yesterday I was speaking with a breeder who had something turn up in their dogs and they are actively working at keeping that a secret - rather than sharing that info with people who could use it to avoid making more dogs with that problem. That dog will still be used for breeding because the purebred registered breeder believes the fact that its a champ means it brings more to the gene pool than it takes away because of its genetic issue. Maybe she is right but Its information that will not be shared and that breeder will not take any responsibility for any negative impact . I could debate and argue for years and she wouldn't understand what Im saying and why I think its so important for her to stop breeding with this dog and let those who have his progeny know what to be aware of. Purebred pedigrees issued by the ANKC have very limited information on them - for two reasons - one is the secrecy thing where many wouldn't own up and enter anything anyway and the other is because the registry itself sees the most important qualification as that of a champion - they record champions but not health,reproductive essentials or temperament issues. The purpose of the registry is to record birth and bloodlines not anything else. Nothing wrong with that after all its what they were set up for and humans have the same but its not enough information for a breeder to make an educated decision on breedings.Profiling a pedigree takes more than just looking at a pedigree and seeing the names and ANKC recognised qualifications. In order to have that info its a huge job which will hopefully get easier in future as we educate more for a breeder to investigate and record and make appropriate decisions and have somewhere to go if they need to. If people are breeding dogs and not somehow keeping that kind of info and using it for the betterment of the dogs they breed they can't breed with science - especially when everyone is yelling about no line breeding and using dogs you don't have a clue about other than that pedigree. Animal rights and changing social factors have bought us to a point where we own less numbers, we breed less and we guard our bloodlines. No one wants to admit they have a problem because it means they will be beaten up publicly and they may have nothing left to breed with. Now a purebred is an animal which has the same breed for every single one of its ancestors for at least 4 generations. Papers or not you cant put your own interpretation on it - that's that .Its accepted as the qualifying definition for all purebred animals world wide. You cant say that by looking at an animal - though you may accept that because someone who bred the dog tells you that - but that's assuming they know - how can they know without a birth certificate ? One of these dogs is a purebred beagle - same breed for every ancestor for hundreds of generations . Its predictible in its management issues and its temperament and potential heath issues - the other is a beagle cross cav and as a beagle owner almost impossible for me to stand having to be in its company because its not like a beagle in temperament and it has a cav health issue which beagles don't get. Without papers how could you know? I've been around beagles for 40 years and I cant tell by looking at it - what hope would Joe public have? But wait what if it really is a purebred beagle and someone said its a cav cross because beagliers bring better money - hybrid vigour and all ? Nup not a chance it acts like a cav but how does someone buying this cute puppy have a clue on that? Think it through how many staffies arent staffies but have some crazy mutt in their background You have to understand why its become even more of an issue in the dog world than it has with other purebred breeding and than it ever was before. Pedigree dogs exposed has bought focus on breeders who they say have been breeding without care for health - as a beagle breeder I am being judged based on the health of the dogs in that breed and its hardly fair to ask me to cop the flak for dogs which look like the breed but have a different set of ancestors. Its hardly fair for anyone coming in contact with that dog which looks like a purebred beagle and assuming all beagles act that way . Nothing is black and white but for me I want the papers and I think anyone who buys a pup without them is buying pot luck which seems to defy the purpose of choosing a purebred dog in the first place - being able to predict the management issues. You can tell me you have a purebred and you can be pretty sure you do but without the papers for me its not coming home with me.

I agree with this - to a point. I breed purebred dogs with registered pedigrees in order to enable me to keep accurate records and pass that onto those who need such info to breed better dogs - but it makes no difference to me if someone has different goals , goes about things in a different way etc. When everyone thinks the same , breeds the same way restricts bloodlines and really do expect that what they like is what everyone should like it isnt necessarily what is best for the dogs. Backyard breeders dont get everything right but what they do impacts what they breed not thousands of dogs into the future. When you get everyone breeding for what is a winning look in the ring even though they are testing and trying to get it right if it goes belly up there isnt anywhere to go to help the breed. Years ago people were able to simply buy a purebred papered puppy and have a couple of litters with a good stud dog when the need arose - they weren't interested in showing or breeding on for a couple of decades but it gave us a gene pool we could go back to dip into etc if we got into trouble. In the main people accepted a purebred had papers but papered dogs were in bigger supply and people were encouraged to breed them. Breeders sold them puppies which they didnt feel would do the breed any harm if they were bred with and there was no expectation for them to breed anything other than pet puppies. Part of that was that we didnt have any such thing as a limited register - if you didnt want a puppy to breed with you didnt get papers at most you got a copy of the papers. Progress isn't necessarily a good thing but in order to work that out we have to stop defending what we do long enough to truly analyse it and honestly consider what is best for the dogs and the people who will own them. We really should do that a bout now before the numbers ensure we are extinct.

The Australian Cobberdog is now at 15 plus generations of past F4 .Even though officially the stud book is still open for anyone to get a dog in which isn't way past an F4 is hard work and they have to justify why they want to do that and what they expect the outcome to be. However, these dogs have been being registered as the Australian Labradoodle for a long time on their registry and a very big difference to a labradoodle which is known as a lab x poodle - which of course is why they needed to change their name to enable people to know the difference between someone who is breeding mutts and someone who is working at breed development. They always knew the difference but the public doesn't. As far as I know these are the only ones who started out with an oodle name which are doing what is required to develop a breed. If any breeder is still calling their dogs anything oodle then they are not involved in the process of any breed development. As a side note the Australian Cobberdog people have done more testing and more screening, have been harder on what is and is not in their breeding program than any other breed developed in history - aided f course by the fact that they are doing so as the science is developed and utilising it as it becomes available. However, part of the criteria for being a breed in its own right is the ability for someone to look at it and know it to be a part of a breed - to have characteristics which are unique and predictible to those dogs to enable us to be able to say - without doubt - that is a "beagle" etc . To do that they need to breed to a goal of what they want the dog to look like and act like and they have to have hundreds which fit that description in order to be able to breed enough of them to set the type and temperament .Which is why there is set criteria from third party registering bodies to accept them as a "breed". To get to that some have to develop the breed which in this country is seen as some terrible sin and certainly not for the faint hearted as its decades of hard Yakka and being beaten up by those who don't approve.

In the UK now dogs can be entered onto a pedigree based on how they resemble the breed - but they have to go through 4 generation of back to papered purebreds to be able to have its puppies considered purebreds. Breeds in development often simply add a dog of unknown parentage based on its characteristics into a pedigree and its the same when ever a stud book is opened. Of course you can take a dog with a pedigree and mate it to a dog of the same breed with a pedigree and issue a birth certificate or pedigree for it without registering it. Same dog would be produced as it would be if it were a registered pedigree BUT Registered pedigrees arent just used as evidence of heritage and ancestors. Its used by a good breeder to map temperaments, genetics, colours, and many other characteristics to enable the current breeder and all those in that breed who come behind them to breed better healthier dogs.Without that pedigree being registered the information needed to do this is lost and only ever able to be used by one person who mates a dog - if they happen to know anything that will impact [unlikely] .People who are really breeding need to be sure that there is no mistake about parentage and ancestry and have the ability to pass on information to other breeders. Any one can breed a dog, anyone can breed a purebred dog but not everyone can consistently breed healthy happy puppies generation after generation which are able to be predictible and bring their families joy and fewer vet bills. This is the basic ground level difference between someone who just breeds dogs regardless of their reasons and a breeder . To a pet owner these papers may not seem to matter but they matter more than most people realise in the progression it took to produce that puppy and all that will come in the future. Science has afforded us the ability to test for many health and genetic issues but there are many which can only be seen and avoided by careful profiling of that pedigree and there always will be. Being able to have one of these registered pedigrees issued for your dog is not only evidence of its ancestry but also evidence that the breeder cared enough for this litter and all which come into the future to record the information to be able to be used by them and others working within the breed to ensure they really are breeding for the betterment of their dogs and the breed. Any breeder who is breeding dogs without doing everything they can to track good and bad traits and issues and lodging the information with a the registry which makes it accessible to others and who insist they are doing everything the same as a registered breeder does but without the paper work is fooling themselves and they don't understand what it means to truly breed dogs. They don't understand what it really takes to select a stud and truly work at getting it as right as we can - consistently right now and forever. Not with luck or ignorance but with science and knowledge. Now I dont mind if others dont get that and they want to determine a purebred by whether it looks like the breed or not but for me the more tools I have and the more tools I can provide to someone else in my breed the better so dont go and denigrate what I do by judging some mutt without papers as the same as what I breed or lump me in with someone who is only concerned by one litter and works with nothing more than blind luck.

A pure breed is a group of dogs with an easily identifiable set of characteristics that remain constant over generations. It is a dog which has both parents of the same breed. Whether it has registered pedigree or not. In Australia the ANKC and some other registries issue a pedigree which is registered in the same way the registry of births deaths and marriages does for people. That doesn't mean its the only way to keep or issue an animal's pedigree nor is it the only way to be able to decide an animal is purebred. It certainly doesnt mean if you dont get papers that its not purebred but for me - without some type of pedigree where I can see what breed each animal in the pedigree is back several generations I assume it is not a purebred. I don't need that paper to be registered with one registry to believe it but I do need it to be registered to use the animal for breeding - even though I know that some of the info on that pedigree possibly isn't true.

Couple of years ago I got a call on Christmas eve - come now and get the beagle you sold us two years ago. She is no longer welcome as she has broken into the outside fridge and eaten the whole Christmas ham and two roast chickens. He is still here but our place is beagle proof .

All sorted - Thank you

We need someone to look after a dog for us in the Albury Area for someone who has had to be taken to hospital and has no one to look after the dog until he comes home. Dog is a Jack Russell - no good with cats , hasnt been around kids much NOT DESEXED Period of care is hopefully only a couple of weeks All expenses paid by Pacers. My phone number is 0269276707

What state?

No its not and the code of ethics for registered breeders has always allowed registered breeders to breed anything they want as long as they don't use their ANKC registered dogs to do so. Being an ANKC registered breeder in Victoria gets you exemptions and you dont have to own a registered dog to be a member .Many breeders have membership to enable them these exemptions and breed Designer dogs and never have any intention of ever breeding a registered dog - one is even high up with the AAPDB, some breed un registered working dogs and others breed cross bred mutts.

Looks like a Maremma to me. Boys are bigger than girls - some lines are bigger than others.Dogs desexed earlier are heavier and taller. Dogs which are working are leaner [ usually ] than those which are not . Depending on where they live and sleep their coat looks different as well.

She is able to breed DD as well even though she is the member as long as she doesn't use her ANKC registered dogs in the breedings. Even then if you could prove she was allowing her registered dogs to be used to breed DDs you have to prove it was deliberate and the dog didn't simply jump the fence.

Someone had better shoot me a message to tell me who this is as it rings some bells and I have a bad feeling she may be about to get a new lot.

What should happen to puppies born via a BY Breeder? They should be able to find homes with families and for them and the family to live happily ever after.

Yep.

Vets go by what the drug companies tell them and some go by their profit margin. No matter what anyone including your vet tells you research it and take a good look at what the actual drug notifications tell you rather than the promo stuff put out by the drug companies. Also before you say go ahead research your risk factors, life cycles of the parasites you are supposedly trying to avoid etc to work out for yourself if its the best thing for your dog. You cant take back out what is already in but a good lesson learned when you only have a new pup. The reason I advise everyone to take out pet insurance for the first year is because vets bomb these babies with over vaccination , heart worm drugs when they are stressed already - going through changes in environment,foods and hormones etc .You often see a rash develop or other immune related issues a few weeks after a vax or heartworm meds etc and you don't associate the symptoms with what has been given because it isn't an instant reaction. After the first year booster many educated owners dont vaccinate anymore and dont give heart worm vaccinations so the immune systems arent challenged as much. By the way its the same when you are feeding only one type of commercial food. First reaction of the dog is that its coat gets shiny and poos are nice and firm and you think all is well but over time you may be over of underfeeding specific nutrients which will affect the dog's immune system etc but because its a slow show you dont associate it with the symptoms in a few months time. Challenge everything.

And this one is good reading too. http://www.sotcdogtraining.com/pdf/heartworm.pdf Quote. Heartwormsmust go through several life stages before they become adults infesting the heart of thehost animal. Initially there must be an infected host animal wherein theadult heartworms bear live young, known as microfilariae. The microfilariae then circulate in the bloodstream of the host for as long as two years,waiting for the next stage in their life cycle in a bloodsucking mosquito. When ingested by a mosquito, themicrofilariae undergo a series of molts to the infective, or third, larval stage and then migrate tothe mouth parts of the mosquito, where they wait to infect another host by beingdeposited on the skin of such. These changes inside a mosquito can occur inas little as two weeks and as long as four weeks, depending on the warmth ofthe climate, and generally cease entirely at ambient temperatures below14° C. This time frame involves a simple formula of counting the degreesabove 14° reached each day. Each degree is called a heartwormdevelopment unit and when 234 heartworm development units have accumulated withina 30-day period, conditions have been reached that will allow thetransmission of L3 life stage heartworm to new hosts. If 30 days pass and 234 heartworm development units have not accumulated, mosquitoes will bedying from the cold before any microfilariae they carry can develop to theinfective stage. If a mosquito bites a dog before the larvae reaches stage 3,infection will not occur. Nor will a dogcatch heartworm from microfilariae in a blood transfusion or from nursing an infected mother as theinfective stage can only be achieved inside a mosquito. There are laboratory studies that indicate that developmentto the L3 stage requires the equivalent of a steady 24-hour dailytemperature in excess of 18C for approximately one month. Intermittent daily declines in Temperature below the developmental threshold of 14 C forshort periods (<2hrs) retard maturation, even when the average dailytemperature supports continued development. At a minimum daily temperature of 27C, 10 to 14 days are required for development of microfilariae to theinfective stage. After the third stage larvae are deposited on the skin of adog, they stay close to the mosquito bite entry site and grow very little duringthe next several days. The molt fromthird to fourth-stage larvae occurs 6-10 days after infection. Fourth-stage larvae migrate through subcutaneoustissue and muscle toward the upper abdomen and thoracic cavity.Fourth-stage larvae grow to about 1/10" in length during the next 40-60days and then molt to the fifth and final larval stage, or young adults. The youngadults penetrate veins to get into the blood stream and eventually, after 70-90days in the dog, reach the heart. Mosquito Life Cycle Also important herein is that the probability of any onemosquito bite transferring infectious heartworm can be quite small. First, as noted above, a mosquito must pick up heartwormmicrofilariae from a host animal. Thenthe microfilariae must undergo a series of molts within the mosquito to the infective, or third, larval stage, whichtakes around two to four weeks. Finally,a mosquito must deposit the infective stage larvae on the skin of another animal where they must survive another threeto ten days and molt from third to fourth-stage larvae to migrate throughsubcutaneous tissue and muscle toward the upper abdomen and thoraciccavity. An animal with a healthy immune system makes this migration very hazardousfor the larvae. Several studies have found that the number of microfilariae ingested by a mosquito is in direct proportion to the mortality of eithermosquito or microfilariae within the mosquito. The studies with Aedes and Culex mosquitoes also found that the number of L3 (infectivestage) larvae that reached the mosquito mouth parts was on average 1.5. A conclusion of the studies was that animals with low microfilariae density areimplicated as the main source for the transmission of D. immitis from dogs tomosquitoes. Considering that a dog with a healthy immune system furtherreduces the Considering that a dog with a healthy immune system furtherreduces the number of L3 to adult stage heartworms, it would seem that adog would have to be bitten many times by mosquitoes with infectivestage larvae for a serious number of adult stage heartworms to develop Let'sback up a minute and also consider that the female mosquito, when biting the initial infected host, consumes more than itsweight and will not feed again for three to four days. Let's also consider that most female mosquitoes can survive up to a month (or longer incaptivity) but most probably do not live longer than one to three weeks innature. Their chances of survival depend on temperature and humidity, not beingeaten themselves, and also their ability to successfully obtain a blood mealwhile avoiding host defenses. So, from the time the female mosquito bites the initialinfected host, around three weeks at a minimum must pass before infectious stagelarvae can be deposited on the skin of another animal. Thus most female mosquitoes will have only one opportunity to potentially infect anotheranimal, and then only if they have bitten an infected host early on and survive atleast three weeks afterwards in optimal conditions. If one is in a seasonal mosquito area, it should also beapparent that the threat of an infectious mosquito bite in almost the first month ofconducive temperatures is virtually nil (unless an infectious mosquitois shipped to your immediate local from the gulf coast :-). The idea that mosquitos might linger around inside say yourhouse might be a concern at the end of a mosquito season for a month or twoat the most, but after that they will be dead, and if they have managed topropagate, the new mosquitos will not achieve an infectious state unless thereis also a host animal present. Inseasonal mosquito areas there is no real justification for year around chemoprophylaxis other than profit, or to treata heartworm positive dog. In subtropical and tropical zones there are some longerlived mosquitos, and usually a greater host pool, so augment this informationwith local conditions. Someadult mosquitos can hibernate over coldmonths, and though there is evidence that viruses in such may not bekilled, I can find no evidence that heartworm microfilariae can survive such

This one is good too if you are considering breeding in future. http://www.showdogsupersite.com/kenlclub/breedvet/herx.html

Heart worm in SA? Heartworm by Dr. Martin Goldstein The Nature of Animal Healing To judge by your local veterinarian's stern insistence on regular heartworm pills for your dog, you'd think we're in the midst of a brutal epidemic, leaving piles of the dead in its wake. I think there's an epidemic, too, but of a different sort: of disease-causing toxicity instilled in our pets by heartworm preventative pills. Granted, heartworm is a serious condition. An infected mosquito bites your dog (cats are rarely affected), injecting microscopic worms that first hibernate, then gain access to his bloodstream. The worms find their way to the heart, where they grow to as long as twelve inches, constricting the heart's passages and causing symptoms that range form coughing to labored breathing to hart failure. If the image of giant worms literally blocking the life blood of your dog isn't horrifying enough--and it can seem more so when viewing a real heart preserved in a jar of formalin, on display in a veterinarian's office as a sales tactic for heartworm preventative--the fact that they spawn hundreds of thousands of baby larvae, called "microfilaria," which circulate through the bloodstream, is nothing short of grotesque. A few caveats are in order, however. Only a small percentage of dogs who get heartworm die of it, especially if they're routinely tested twice yearly for early detection. Even in untreated dogs, after a period of uncomfortable symptoms, the adult worms die. The microfilaria do not grow into adult worms on their own. To reach the next stage in their life cycle, they have to be sucked back out of the body by another mosquito, and go through the other stages of their maturation process within the mosquito. Only when that mosquito alights again on a dog and bites it can the microfilaria reenter the bloodstream with the ability to grow into adults. The chances of a microfilaria-infected mosquito biting your dog the first time are slim. Of it happening to the same dog twice Very slim. And after two decades of pervasive administration of heartworm pills in the U.S., the chances of your dog contracting heartworm in most parts of this country even a first time are slimmer still. Early in my career, I saw and treated hundreds of cases of heartworm disease, most with routine medication, yet witnessed only three deaths (the last was in 1979). By comparison, we're seeing cancer kill dogs on a daily basis. To my mind, the likelihood that toxicity from heartworm pills is contributing to the tremendous amount of immune suppression now occurring, especially in cases of liver disease and cancer, is far greater and more immediate than the threat of the disease they're meant to prevent. The most common form of heartworm prevention is a monthly pill taken just before and during mosquito season. (Many veterinarians recommend giving it year-round, even in areas of the country that experience winter.) Its toxins--ivermectin, for example--sweep through the body, killing any microfilaria that have been introduced by mosquito bites in the previous month, and thus preventing the growth of adult worms. Some brands also contain other toxins to kill intestinal parasites. The other approach to treatment is with a daily dose of the drug diethylcarbamazine, starting several weeks before mosquito season. The drugs called for in either course of treatment are, simply put, poisons. Unfortunately, while they kill off microfilaria, they have the toxic effects of poisons, and can be especially damaging to the liver. I've saved a 1987 product evaluation for diethylcarbamazine mixed with oxibendazole, a preventative also used for hookworm. The evaluation, published by the company itself in a medical journal, reported that of 2.5 million dogs give the stuff, the company received only 176 reports of problems. Including cases of liver toxicity and fatalities. To me, 176 is too many. But also, how many more went unreported? The evaluation concludes, "Of course, not all incidences are reported to the manufacturer, so the true magnitude of occurrence is really unknown." The manufacturer would argue, no doubt, that many of the symptoms I've seen cannot be linked in any provable way to any of the heartworm preventatives. Perhaps--though the anecdotal evidence has long since persuaded me not to put dogs on the stuff. But I have seen one obvious, immediate effect of these once-a-month preventatives in case after case: when you give a dog that pill, over the next few days, wherever he urinates outside, his urine burns the grass. Permanently! In some cases, you can't grow grass there until you change the soil. What, I wonder, can it be doing internally to your dog in that time? When the first daily preventatives came out, my brother and I witnessed evidence of hemorrhaging in the urine of several dogs put on them. We stopped the medication; the bleeding stopped. We started it up again; the bleeding resumed. When we reported this to the manufacturer, we were informed that the company was aware of the problem from other complaints. Aware--but not about to pull its product form the shelves. All we could do was to stop giving the medication ourselves to the dogs we treated. Since then, the company has changed ourselves to the dogs we treated. Since then, the company has changed the product, diminishing this side effect and bringing it into the realm of acceptability for use in areas of high heartworm incidence. The dogs I treat form puppy hood receive no heartworm preventative pills. It may be said, of course, that I practice in an area where cases of heartworm are pretty infrequent. But while my clinic is in Westchester County, just north of New York City, my practice encompasses patients from around the country. In the last decade, 98 percent of my patients, on my recommendation, have not been given heartworm preventative. In that time, I've seen less than a handful of clinical cases. Two of them I treated herbally, starting with heart support supplements (a heart glandular, vitamin E, Co-Enzyme Q IO) and regular doses of black walnut, and herb known to kill parasites. (It comes in a liquid extract form; I recommend putting a dropperful in the food or mouth at each meal.) The third I treated medically, with a new drug (Immiticide) reported to be a lot less toxic than intravenous arsenic, at a lower-than-recommended dosage. All three are clinically normal--no evidence of heartworm recurrence--years after treatment. Excerpted from The Nature of Animal Healing by Martin Goldstein Copyright© 2000 by Martin Goldstein. Excerpted by permission of Ballantine, a division of Random House, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.

Roundworm and hook worm work by the lavae sitting around in the bitch and "turn on" crossing the placenta in the last couple of weeks of pregnancy and they also sit in the mammary glands so puppies can be infected before birth and they get it via the milk. Its all about how the Mum was managed when she was a pup and it is also affected by how many litters. Sometimes the first litter will have a higher worm burden than the later ones. You can test the bitch prior to breeding and whelping and she will show clear of worms but the lavea is waiting to cause a problem and the meds don't clear it out of the placentas in that part of the life cycle. So if you have a bitch pup with round worm or hook worms she will usually have worms when she whelps. This one explains it. http://www.marvistav...___puppies.html The worm you have seen is not left over as a worm from the last worming but it means that the part of the life cycle they were up to on last worming wasn't able to be taken out by the meds and so you need to worm every 2 weeks for the next 6 weeks to get rid of them regardless of which part of the life cycle they were in. But remember by then they will have migrated so for all intents and purposes she is all clear and nothing you can do about anywhere else they are and they sit dormant until she is pregnant and off they go again.

yep just got off the phone to her. She is a good stick alright

Pacers have an urgent call for help from some one who is in the Edinburgh Area in SA . Located between Elizabeth and Salisbury. It is a kennel which has about a dozen of the owners dogs.Its actually a boarding kennel with no current boarders. We need someone who is either able to live on the property with free accommodation in return for 2-3 hours a day work or someone who lives in the area who is able to attend the premises for a couple of hours a day for about the next 4 weeks whilst the owner recuperates from a serious operation. All Expenses covered and a small remuneration. This will also probably lead to a position available for full time employment [ with accommodation if required] and we are looking now into possibilities for trainee ships etc This really is an urgent request for help with someone in an extremely stressful situation due to an unexpected illness and operation and who is not able to care for her dogs without this help for the next few weeks. Obviously there are some parts of this story I can't tell on a public forum but my heart is breaking for this lady so if anyone is interested at all in giving us a hand please ring me on 0269276707 asap and Ill fill in the gaps regarding breed etc Julie

There is a whisper this is a purebred breeder - notice it said terriers and spaniels. Either way thank God they found them and helped the animals.