Rascalmyshadow

Can I just ask (not having a go at you) if you are not willing to spend a little extra on clippers are going to buy a decent dryer to fluff her up? If you aren't then it's likely you will never be happy with job you do yourself. The clip the groomer did on your dog is standard why not take the dog back next time and tell them you want it one length all over and the face shorter. I always explain to my clients they need to voice their opinions to me to get what they want sometimes they're interpretation is different to mine. Also some groomers out there will only do set clips and aren't willing to change even if you ask them.

I would start off by buying Andis clippers instead of Wahl they are quieter and easier to manage. If she is that worried I would also agree with kiki and have her done by a professional as often as possible until she's used to it. Until you are used to grooming stick with the snap on combs over the top of your 10# blade or fork out and buy a 40#, a no. 2 Laube comb will give a really nice finish even if the dog has a few knots it just needs to be clean and fluffed up.

My standard girl will do the same to 3 of my other dogs if they are separated to eat but if I feed them all in the same room (which is usual) she doesn't do it.

My youngest pup had a similar break (that is how I got him) he was 14 weeks old and weighed 2kg at the time, he had surgery and they inserted a metal coil, it took around 12 weeks to get back to normal.

For a beginner I would not recommend using a toe blade it is much easier to cut the webbing between the toe with them, even on the toys I use full size blades without a problem. Plastic combs give a fluffier/softer finish, a metal 4# is almost the same length as a no. 2 snap on yet often if I use the 4# a customer will say it looks too short but if I use the plastic they are happy.

For scissoring feet don't get shorter scissors get curved instead then they can also be used for doing topknots, rounding ears and some leg shaping.

10# blades are used on almost every dog so they wear quicker and it is good to have an extra one for when you FFT poodles because the blades heat up and you need to swap. Before anyone comments on doing a poodles FFT with a 10# I don't think someone learning should go any shorter because the risk of clipper rash is too high.

indi_dog what state are you in? I am a groomer by trade I would recommend you start with 2 10# blades (use them for doing armpits, groins and FFT poodles) 7f (very short summer cut) 5# (longer summer cut or short winter cut) and a 40#surgical (putting under blocking blades/plastic combs) then get yourself a range of different size blocking blades they are the cheapest and safest way to learn to groom and the customers love their finishes. The Oster blades are the best and will fit your clippers.

The Ezy coat twim motor dryer is a good buy, it is heavy duty and works exceptionally well but it is quite noisey and retails around $700+. My favourite dryer is the 'Hurricane' from The Melbourne Dog centre (I own 2 of them) I think it retails at around $500 it is powerful (I can use it to dry my standards), quiet, light weight and it comes with a well shaped nozzle perfect for getting off excess water before fluffing up.

sorry did I misread the post I thought the OP said it was only on his face and feet. I didn't mean wash the whole dog in it. Green palmolive dishwashing liquid is an old grooming method used to get white dogs faces clean especially from tear stains.

If you want cheap scissors the Wahl scissors are quite good I use a curved pair to scissor feet etc. If you want really good scissors IMO Gators are the best but they are around $300 a pair.

Try scrubbing the areas that are green with an old/new soft toothbrush and green palmolive dishwashing liquid but make sure you rinse thoroughly otherwise he will end up with an irritation.

I the dog enjoys other foods and not the dry why feed her the dry? I know a couple of people doing the same thing and their dogs are so skinny becaus they barely eat.

I would HIGHLY recommend PAW Behaviour, I have just finished a class with Jenny and she has taught me more about positive training in 8 weeks than in the 12 years I have been working with dogs. She is also about to start up a walking group for any one that has done her classes to help keep the dogs well socialised. Her classes are a lot of fun and she also gives you a try at a small agility course (suitable for puppies). I have been to several obedience shools and so far none as good as hers also there is no more than 8 dogs in a class so you get a lot of one on one.

dogsdot your welcome to send him my way :D but it's been years since i've done a beddie so he might come out looking like something else

Quite a few vets near where I live have this style set up. I ended up with this job because the clinic advertised for someone, I would start by working at a groomers bathing and get then to teach you how to clip, once you are confident buy your equiptment and start approaching vet clinics. If you need anymore help feel free to PM me, I don't want to put too much info about my situation on a public board.

Hi mickatie I have been grooming for 12.5 years and have had my own business for the last 6. It is a very rewarding job if you have a lot of patience, I rent a space inside a vet clinic IMO is the best way to go (once you know what your doing). I pay a small percentage to the clinic to cover water, electricity, shampoo etc. and I don't have to do any advertising because the vet does it for me. I have a mobile phone and the clients call me direct to make bookings. Unlike the majority I love dealing with aggressive and/or timid dogs thats how I have ended up with such a great rep. I have so many dogs that no other groomers will touch and it is the most awsome feeling when they finally relax and trust you. My main advice would be to stay flexible with your grooming techniques, if an owner wants a different clip to what their particular breed would normally have do what they ask (if possible), most people that own pets do not want them looking like showdogs. Example: most of the westies I groom the owners don't like skirts on, poodles the owners don't like their feet shaved, cockers the owners like no feathering. For me the only downsides are it is physically very hard, due to grooming I have ruptured a disk in my neck, my knuckles ache constantly, I often have pain in my left hip and knee from standing to long, I suffer migraines and most days after work I am sore all over. Sometimes customers can be impossible, although I don't have that problem very often anymore because as soon as someone gets difficult I tell them to go elsewhere. I think the bad parts of the job are well worth it if you really love working with dogs.

I have been a groomer for 12.5 years, I started as a bather and was trained by 2 of my bosses, I now rent out a space in a vet clinic and work for myself. I do bathing and clipping, I think I would get bored if I was doing bathing only I also wouldn't make enough money. I have found most people are happy to pay the money, although it could be due to the area I am in. I know I do an excellent job and I always put the dogs needs above an owners requests. I specialise in handling nervous and aggressive dogs and in the seven years I have been working for myself I have only refused to do two dogs and that was because of their owners.

My old poodle was put on Metacam when he damaged a disk in his back, he became very lethergic and within two days it had caused a massive stomache ulcer, we had to stop the metacam and treat the ulcer with two different medications. Ever since I have been very wary about using it, even now the vets tell me it was a very unusual reaction and the drug is one of the safest.

Laube are more expensive to buy and repair but from what i've been told they have a longer life and so far I have found them to be better quality. I would personally spend the extra.

A bit off topic: has anyone that uses the ezy coat dryer found the hoses tends to lose it's seal.

Hi good luck with the grooming, I have tried quite a few brands and the best two (IMO) are Laube and Andis. If you have a toy or mini I would go with the Andis as they are a little lighter, cheaper and easier to handle. If you have a standard I would but the Laube they are a bit more expensive but are extreemly powerful and will make the job a lot easier. I used to use the KM-1 until I tried the above brands.

If your puppy is only eating dirt, sticks, bark etc I wouldn't be too worried unless yo have poisonus plants in your yard these things are not likely to do any harm. Our old family dog always crunched up sticks and bark kept her teeth nice and clean.

I have experienced this problem but it was alot more serious than an infection and we had to make the decision to PTS our 5 month old airedale baby, not likely your girl would have the same problem. I have also had one of my girls get a bladder infection but we only knew because she was weeing in her sleep , blood and urine tests showed up nothing so we had xrays done and they found it that way.

We are feeding two standard poodles, two mini poodles and a very active tibetan terrier x? for around $30 per week. For breakfast the standards get each 1 cup pal pedigree (small bites) dry and 1/4 tin natures gift. The little dogs get 1 cup pal pedigree (small bite) dry and 1/2 tin natures gift split evely between the three. For dinner the standards get 1-2 chicken carcasses (depending on size) sometimes I stuff them with vegies, sardines, pasta etc. The little dogs get 3-4 necks each. If you wanted to make it even cheaper you could substitute the natures gift a few times a week with chicken mince. I used to feed a full BARF diet but I found it too hard to get weight on the standards and the little terrierx, I also think their coats are better on this diet.