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Hey there Hun, You didn't rush with your decision, you worked so hard with him and gave him more than others would. Another Angel you know...

Rest in peace sweet girl, no more pain. Another Angel you know....

Name: Dante Sex: Male Date of birth: 13.03.07 Age: 6 months old Colour: Harlequin Breed: Great Dane Hobbies: Doing Zoomies around the yard Loves: Pigs ears and toys that make noises Hate: Nothing yet. He's some piccies: The day he was born: 1 month old: 2 months old and his first day home with us: 3 months old: 4 months old learning how to be a show puppy: 5 months old graduating puppy school: 1 week off 6 months of age winning Baby Puppy of Breed:

With the outside pen you may find they dig out as it's only on grass. I wouldn't be too worried about ants unless you have an ant infestation in that area, feed he dogs and pick up the bowls so the ants dont' come. In regards to the biting, with some dogs growls work, with others you have to be very harsh, every dog is an complete individual. As for toileting overnight, they're going to keep doing that until they're old enoug to hold on overnight unless you get up once or twice a night to let them out. That's why crate training is an excellent option as they don't like to toilet in such a small area and will tend to cry to let you know they need to toilet.

I'm with CavNrott about not removing the food. Leaders are fair, firm & assertive they are not bullies, I personal feel by taking the food away you are being a bully. Sounds like pup could do with a good does of leadership to help it back on the right path again. With a dog that is growly with it's food bowl, this is resource guarding, you may find your dog displays this attitude to other high value items such as toys and treats and so-forth. If puppy was mine, I'd use Jan Fennels methods, she has a book called Dog Listener, you may like to invest in a copy. I personaly would: Not feed the dog until I had eaten or grab a human biscuit and pretend you're eating it out of the dog bowl (the dog is there watching you). I'd also be doing the 5 minute ignore method which is covered in the book. Give the dog a little bit of food in its' bowl, and as it's eating walk towards the dog throwing treats on the ground towards the dog, start off quite a way back, dogs hae a personal bubble, it's usually at about the 3 metre mark. This shows the dog that someone approaching it is a positive thing as it gets treats. I'm not sure about this method with your dog though as I would use this method for dogs who have had to fight for their food or have been food deprived in the past. To me, it seems like this dogs just needs to be put back in its' place.

Hi and welcome to the forum, you'll get a lot of different types of advice, so here's mine Looks like the problem here is that you have been inconsistent, research a good proven method and stick to it. Yes, in my opinion you did do the worst posible thing and rub the dogs noses in their business, this is not only disgusting & unhygenic but all it teaches the dog is that you don't like them to toilet in front of you and that includes outside as well, dogs who are continualy punished like this will seek out places away from you and hide to do their business. Now, you also have to understand their puppies and there will be set backs. We ad Dante going through the night at 11 weeks and 10% reliably toilet trained at about 13 weeks, he's a giant dog so has an advantage over smaller dogs in this department. Each dog is different and will click onto it at different times. The method we use in our house for training puppies and foster dogs is as follows: You never let the dog out of your sight when you are home, if they have an accident when you are home, well that's your issue, you wren't watching them. If you don't want the dogs toileting all over the house when you're not home then contain them to an actual room if it's big enough, otherwise you may need to invest in a mesh run for them. Ok...so let me get back on track: Every hour you take the dog outside in a positive way, you give your toileting command whatever that may be, we say "Toilet", don't play with the dog just let it sniff around the yard, walk around the yard yourself, once it starts to toilet, calmly say "Good Toilet", then when the dog has finished, lay on the praise big time and then have a play in the yard to show the dogs that the yard is a fun place to be. If the dog doesn't toilet, then go back inside and watch it like a hawk. If the dog begins to have an accident and you see it, give a firm NO, but don't yell, don't hit, don't run at the dog etc, lead the dog outside and follow the above steps. When you go back inside, clean up the mistake with a special accident spray that removes the scent that the dog can smell but you can't. If you haven't been doing this, then I would suggest you get your carpets cleaned and sanatised otherwise your house will smell like one big toilet to the dogs. If the dog/s have an accident inside the house and you didn't see it happen, you can't do anything, do give the dog an angry look or body language or say anything, just clean it up, dogs aren't like humans, if you repremand the dog you'll only confuse it. We take the dogs toilet before they go to bd and lift the water an hour or 2 before bed. Dante is crate trained and the crate was in our room, he would cry once or twice a night wanting to go to the toilet when he just a bubba. Smacking a razzed up dog isn't going to get you anywhere, they're too hyped up to learn. Dogs learn when they have a calm mind. Yes, puppies and dogs play fight and some play fight really hard, if no one is getting injuried then I would just leave them to it but perhaps have a rule that any playing is done outside and not inside. When puppies platfight they learn bite inhibition (how hard they can bite before they hurt) this is a good thing. Sounds like it's time to show Jezzy some leadership, there is a great book by Jan Fennell called 'Dog Listener', I highly reccomend it, especially people new to dogs or those practicing out of date methods. When you're stressed the dogs pick up on it, leaders are calm & assertive. Good luck!

Dante gets a kinda green discharge, Vet isn't concerned about it.

OK, here we have aother groomer dissing a more slow and more positive path....isn't that interesting. One thing you seem to be both forgetting is that this dog has already won numerous battles with its' owners and it knows their weaknesses, this isn't a case of just muzzling the dog and getting to work. YES I understand that a Groomer needs to get on with their work BUT the owner has time to re-condition much more slowly and more positively and I don't see what the problem is.

I beg to differ that about the fear portion. It can be common for dogs that are young and never have accepted grooming that it could be based out of fear especially when owners take the heavy hand approach. It may not be fear but considering anyone giving suggestions here doesn't know the dog personaly then careful thought needs to be given in my opinion. I still see absolutely no negatives to the owner re-conditioning the dog with the method I mentioned, what's the harm?

I'd be finding out who the breeer is and letting them know you have the pup and then you can have a chat to them about what's best to feed your puppy.

We had a terrible time with Dante, he was a horrible puppy LOL Most of the typical things you would do such as ignoring them and walking away wouldn't work as he would run after us and bit us on the back of the legs. As others have mentioned, this type of biting is typical of a puppy, they need to understand a different set of rules when they're removed from the litter, some handle the rule change really easily and others are a nightmere LOL The things we tried: 1) Re-directing to a toy - you were stuffed if you didn't have a toy. 2) Scruffing - would wind the puppy up more. 3) Growl - would wind the puppy up more. 4) Smack - would wind the puppy up more. 5) Bad tasting spray on our legs and hands - worked for about 2 days. 6) Time outs for 2 minutes each time he did it. 7) Water Pistols - worked for about 2 weeks but again, you were stuffed if you didn't have the water pistol close by. 8) Walking away/ignoring - absolutely no use. At puppy school we learned to submit the puppy, I wish I had gone to this puppy school when he was biting, it would have helped us so much.

Your Breeder will be able to advise you best as they know not only their breed but their lines the best. Depending on breeds, usually you keep a puppies walk quite short whilst it's growing. It's a catch 22 about the walking inregards to vaccinations, I think it really comes down as to what you're willing to risk for socialisation.

I'm sorry but I have a differring opinion. I certainly don't see it as being a dominance issue. If a puppy has not taken to gooming it can be a really scary thing for them. What everyone has suggested to me seems quite negative/stressful & really not that neccessary? At puppy school, we were taught a trick for getting puppies used to grooming. Dante used to bite at the brush etc and I couldn't brush him from the time I got him for about 2 months. So we started teaching them 'FEET' which you have a plastic box or another sturdy object for the dog to put only it's 2 front feet on. In your left hand you have a brush, is your right hand you have a treat, feed the dog with your right hand, you can keep the big treat in it and let the dog nibble at it, the leash should be loose, it takes a few goes to get the co-ordination. You can have the brush in your pocket if you want then you can pull it out and start tring to brush the dogs back for starters. I also would only be grooming on a surface which was non-slip. Warley, I understand what you're saying from a Groomers point of view, however the owner has the time unlike a groomer to make a positive association not a fearful one, yeah? Worth a go?

Leila does it once in a blue moon. I just figure she has an itchy bum....we all get itches don't we? And if it's not a consistent thing I wouldn't come to the conclusion her anal glands need expressing or there is a problem there. But, there's no harm asking your Vet to take a peak.

Dante pissed on his outside bed this morning...he's toilet trained but he didn't want to get his pretty little head wet as it's raining....little shyte.

I hate puppy breath, makes me wanna puke LOL

mmmm interesting. You'd be more inclined to the dog saying "it's mine" if it was your bed or another dog bed. The puppy is only 11 weeks old, could this just be one of those things?

Ok, don't freak out just yet. It could be Pano which causes them to limp and they mature out of. I thought Pano shows up in GSD's a bit?

Here's some info (on humans not dogs): An eye sty is a common infection of the hair follicle of an eyelash. Generally, an eye stye starts with a small pimple. Within the next few days, it gets filled with pus and consequently bursts and heals on its own with the draining of infection. An eye sty is believed to be caused by some debility in the system. It can even be caused due to blockage of glands by dirt or refraction error. A sty in the eye is usually a harmless development and can be treated at home. Styes may be treated by making a decoction (prepared from the roots, seeds, stems and other parts of the plants that are boiled in water) of eyebright and chamomile, to help reduce the inflammation. Sometimes, the infection disappears quickly, without forming into a red swelling. But other styes worsen rapidly until the eyelid swells up. Eye sty occurs when staphylococcal bacteria infect one of the tiny glands at the base of the eyelid hairs and then becomes inflamed. It is commonly found as small bumps on the base of eyelids. Stye is often accompanied with certain complications, such as there may be spread of infection to other eyelash follicles. There may also be spread of infection to the tissue of the eyelid, which is known as Eyelid cellulites. The symptoms of styes may resemble other conditions or medical problems. Some Eye Sty treatment Tips 1. Do not touch your eyes when you are gardening or cooking. 2. You should protect your eyes from air pollution and dust. 3. You should wear sunglasses before going outside. 4. Take a cup of water. Dissolve 2-3 granules of alum in it. Use as an eyewash. 5. Slit an aloe leaf lengthwise and place the pulpy side on the sore eye.

What about some calming paste if the rescue remedy doesn't work?

Yep definately. If the breeder is doing all the right things for the puppy then any age is ok, but I'd personaly not want to do a dog entering or in it's fear period or rank & shaping period.

Wow, @ 7 week of age the puppy is already displaying such a behaviour. Erny is on the case and I'm sure she'll help you out as much as she can.

See here: http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?show...60&start=60

I'd be popping the crate in the room with you and then over the next couple of months move it bit by bit to the other room. The family is just going to have to put up with the crying, it usually doesn't last for longer than a week if you don't go to her when she's crying, wait for a break in the crying, take her to thetoilet, no laying and then put her back in her crate. Whether it's right or wrong I'm not sure, but for the first 3 days when we brought Dante home, I would sleep next to his crate on the floor and when he was sound asleep I would sneak back to my own bed. Good Luck.

The fur-kids are already on fish oil every evening, but the Chiro thought it would be a good idea to put them on the Cod Liver. Interesting is the container says to give only 1ml not a tea spoon, a tea spoon is 10 mls?