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Our Doggy Chiro suggested giving our dogs 1 tea spoon of Cod Liver Oil every 3 days, he said it would especially be good for the puppy as it gets into their marrow and makes the bones stronger. So before trying it, I contacted my breeder to make sure it's ok. She hasn't used it before but doesn't think it should be an issue. Well today I'm a walking zombie, because overnight the dogs needed to go to the toilet 5 times each, that's 10 times I had to get out of bed to let them out. I'm not sure if they had the runs so to speak as I stood at the back door half asleep waiting for them. Does Cod Liver do this to dogs? Is the dosage perhaps wrong?

I wouldn't be too concerned right now, should be safe to wait until your breeder comes back. Dante's ears have done all sorts of weird things and on advice from our breeder, we're just leaving them be for now.

Ooops, bad move yelling at a puppy for having an accident, what you have done is created a puppy that knows it can not toilet infront of you as it makes you angry, hense the laying down. You need to go back to step one and praise the hell out of the dog for toileting in the right spot and no more yelling. It's just a puppy, lighten up. Also try walking puppy around before getting back in the car, some puppies don't like to toilet away from home until thy ar abit older but give it a go.

There's nothing wrong with starting her in obedience straight away. I've picked foster dogs up on a Friday night and taken them to class on Sunday, we've found it's helped establish the bond we need to work with them and establish leadership granted you're practicing leadership at home

Is Charlie a puppy? If so ears can go through some weird stages during teething and some people like to tape the dogs ears. Did Charlie come from a Registered Breeder you could check with?

Teach her to sit and wait for you to let her up. If she jumps up by herself put her back down and ask her to sit. If your puppy is growling at you, puppy doesn't think much of you as a leader and needs to be put back in its' box. Small dogs are also known for injuring themselves jumping off beds and sofas so perhaps just keep her on the floor, you can teach her this by just placing her on the floor each time she gets up. I'd reccomend the below reading material to assist you going forward: 1) Understanding the different phases puppies go through: http://www.k9force.net/index.html?row2col2=develop.html 2) TOT: http://www.k9force.net/index.html?row2col2=tot.html 3) A program every dog should be on: http://www.k9force.net/index.html?row2col2=nilif.html 4) A great book called Dog Listener by Jan Fennell. Good Luck

I wouldn't take a pup less than 8 weeks as it needs to be with it's mother & litter mates for the essential lessons in life it needs, such as socialisation & bite inhabition plus also toileting habits. I personaly wouldn't want to take a dog older than 10 weeks but that's just my own feeling. The following links shows you the different phases puppies go through: http://www.k9force.net/index.html?row2col2=develop.html • Pack skills development period (3 - 8 weeks) This is a crucial time for the puppy to spend with mother & litter mates, interaction skills are learned at this time & various canine behaviours are learned too, such as calming, greeting signals etc. He is now aware of the differences between canine and human societies. • Human Socialization Period (6-12 Weeks) The puppy has a developed brain that can think like an adult dog. This is the best time to interact with the puppy, bring it inside for the nite in front of the TV etc. He now has the ability to learn respect, simple training steps such as come, sit, stay. We teach the elimination command at 6 week mark so the dog will toilet on command. He can now learn by association. The permanent man-dog bonding begins, we do not use any corrective measures when training puppies at this stage, other than removal of an available reward. Confidence building is now possible too. • Period of fear 12-16 Weeks The puppy will spook very easily in this period, & frightening experiences can have a lasting effect on the puppy. In this period, we dont allow children to carry or pick up puppies, nor play with them without close supervision. We try not to allow the pup in contact with dogs we dont know that are gentle with pups. A puppy subjected to an attack by another dog in this period will most likely suffer from fear aggression its whole life. Things learned by association are permanent.

Puppy needs to know who the leader is and thinks its' him. I wouldn't be jumping around like an idiot to get his attention, he can hear you just fine, I'd be careful jumping up and down and being all exciting with a puppy who currently is bitey and jumpy as it may over excite them :rolleyes: I would reccomend the below reading: 1) Understand the different phases puppies go through: http://www.k9force.net/index.html?row2col2=develop.html 2) TOT: http://www.k9force.net/index.html?row2col2=tot.html 3) NILIF: http://www.k9force.net/index.html?row2col2=nilif.html 4) A great book called Dog Listener from Jan Fennel By being a good leader you'll be able to get his attention. There is an activity we do at puppy school: Get a plastic container, fill it with coins or rocks, shake it and when puppy comes give puppy a reward and say "Good Come". Puppies do have short attention spans but to simply get his attention should be fairly straight forward. Good Luck

By being inconsistent, I mean that you used to make her sit and now she doesn't do that anymore to get up on the sofa. The best thing we did for Dante (we are currently doing) is attending a 6 week puppy school out in Austral, yes it's a bit of a drive but it kicks ass when it comes to Vet Puppy Pre-Schools and obedience Clubs for young puppies, it shows you how to be the leader of your dog in a way you feel comfortable with it and how to train your dog in a very effective manner. http://www.camarna.com/index.htm Luci Ellem who is the trainer there got Dante going great and I think from what I have read Dante's behaviour was a lot worse than your puppies.

From the information provided in your previous post to this one, I would say she is definately testing bondaries and sorry to say, I don't think she thinks that much of you as a leader. Puppies go through a RANK & SHAPING period at approx 14-18 weeks, this is the time you need to show leadership, this is the time they will start to test you. I really think you need to step up and be your doggies Leader rather than Mummy I reccomend you implement NILIF - Read it here: http://www.k9force.net/index.html?row2col2=nilif.html Understand the different phases Puppies/Dogs go through - Read it here: http://www.k9force.net/index.html?row2col2=develop.html TOT is also a good program - Read it here: http://www.k9force.net/index.html?row2col2=tot.html And pop out to the book store and grab a book called Dog Listener by Jan Fennell :rolleyes: Good luck

Dante's similar, as a very young puppy we had a lot of trouble with him nipping and biting, that got sorted and now he's teething he's at it again, so we're giving him lot's of things to chew likes apples and chew toys etc etc. If she's getting 'shitty' with you when you're telling her what to do, sounds like she needs to be put back in her box, has she been to puppy school yet? In the early days, Dante would pack MASSIVE tantrums, he would scream, bite, throw himself around yadda yadda yadda, we found a great trainer to train us how to handle him more effectively and since the first session with her we are yet to see another tantrum...it all comes down to leadership, a dog throwing a tantrum is smply disrepecting you. Where do you live? That's being inconsistent and that's what leaders aren't

Hiya, congrats on the new pooch. She may have learned that this behaviour gets attention in the past. However I'd probably take her to the vet for a check up and if that is all ok then I'd be inclined to completely ignore her until she stops and then give her praise the moment there is silence. Crates are gret As showdog said, it's a good idea if you don't know, to find out where she slept and lived in her previous home.

Hiya, I went to puppy pre-school at our vets *shakes head* what a load of nonsense. People seem to get a lot of bad advice from Vet Puppy Preschools. I see you're in Sydney. The best thing that we've done is take our puppy to Luci Ellem Puppy School in Austral, it takes us an hour to get out there and initially I didn't want to go that far, but honest to God it's the best thing we have ever done for the puppy and for us! There are a couple of Amstaffs at puppy school at the moment including an absolutely adorable 9 week old puppy. I didn't get Dante into Luci until he was 5 months old, it would have been brilliant if I had known about it when he was 8 weeks old. http://www.camarna.com/index.htm

That's really heart breaking and I'm so sorry for your loss

Perhaps the Police just weren't sure what to do, or perhaps the Police who came just weren't doggy people. Sounds like you did the absolutely right thing.

So sorry to hear about your precious girl. Rest well, no more pain. Another Angel you know...

Hiya Dogs don't self-exercise so a big backyard isn't really going to help your cause unfortunately. Your dogs may require a morning and evening walk to get them in a better frame of mind. Giving them mentally stimulating activities to do may also assist: Treat balls/cubes, sandpit & paddling pool - hiding treats in the sandpit etc etc. Have you consideed blocking off their visual access so they can not see other dogs and people outside of your property? Have you had a mediation meeting with your neighbour? I was under the understanding that a mediation meeting must take place and if the neighbour doesn't want the meeting then their complaints can't be taken all tht serious unless the Council have been to your place and agree that there is an issue. This of course may not be the case in your council area. It may be a good idea to get on the phone to your council and tlk through this problem, ask them to come out and access the problem. Can the dogs have more access to inside? There is a book called Dog Listener by Jan Fennell, she explains a method in the book on dealing with boundary barkers if that is what the issue is, that may assist? If you have the funds it may be a good idea to find an accredited Behaviourist, Erny can help you there, to assist you with other methods to calm your dogs barking down.

I'd probably be more inclined to do some work with him prior to leaving if he's not used to it, also with him being a puppy he may be being fussed over. This is what I'd probably do: Pop to the book store and get a book called Dog Listener by Jan Fennell and follow her bonding methods, suitable for dogs of all ages, very briefly this is what it involves: Each time the owner is serpated from the dog by a door, this could be a bathroom door, hallway door etc, they ignore the dog for 5 minutes on re-entry, they need to act as though they do not hav a dog, this means no eye contact, no verbal repremand when the dog is trying to get their attention etc. After the 5 minutes you call the dog to you, if the dog comes to you (granted it knows what come is) you give the dog a quick pat and carry on with your day until the next time you are seperated by a door. If the dog does not come to you straight away then you continue to ignore the dog until you are seperated by a door again. When we first brought Dante home he would spend just a minute outside by himself and then we would build this up over time, I had 2 weeks off work to settle him in. Remembering never return to a dog who is crying/screaming/barking otherwise they win. Let your neighbours know what is happening so they can give you some grace. Remembering not to overly fuss the dog is well is important, no free pats, not even for a puppy, implement the NILIF program. If puppy is 14 weeks old he is currently in his fear period and may be sookier than usual but he needs to gain confidence too.

Nup, wouldn't touch them. To them every dog has a dominance issue and that's all their training seems to revolve around. I used them years ago when I didn't know any better, my dog was less responsive after 2 sessions and $300 later.

I'd say don't take the dog back to the park because it's not an appropriate place for 'that' dog to be. People with small dogs have every right not to be happy about large dogs harassing their dogs, small dogs aren't structurely as tough as the biggies!

We put it in the dogs water to prevent urine burnt grass. We just get it at the Supermarket.

If it's just a puppy then blowing in it's face is far less dangerous than an adult dog. HOWEVER I can't imagine any puppy ceasing mouthing etc. from just a blow in the face. From what I've seen before, blowing in a dogs face is annoying & irritating, not something you eally want to do, not that fair to a puppy. Giving the dog a short & sharp repremand would be far more effective. For mouthing we tried a lot of things, Dante was so bad that he would run at you and lunge trying to bite the back of your legs. I found water pistols worked well, by saying "Ah Ah / No" and then if they didn't stop they got sprayed, but you have to remember not to let the dog see the water pistol otherwise it associates with the water pistol not the Ah Ah / No. Some people simply walk away from their dog and ignore it - unfortunately didn't work with Dante as he would just run after us. Some people scruff the dog, I personaly don't like this, but that's just me. Some people, curl the dogs lip over so it's over the dogs teeth, so effectively the dog bites itself - didn't work for us. Some people give a veral repremand - depends how soft natured the dog is - didn't work for us. So many different methods, it really depends on the dogs temperment/nature and what is more suitable.

I still shed a tear when I think of what you went through and poor Barker. Another Angel you know...

So sorry, Another Angel you know...

What a wonderful age to get to, she sounds like she had a lovely life. Rest in peace sweet girl. Another Angel you know...