Mystiqview

Innotech are a bit more expensive. The contain and train component is really good. You can turn on or off the fence part and just train, or contain and train. If not - I would definitely look at a rechargeable one over a battery one. Or make sure you have a couple spare battery sets available. Be careful also buying any complete sets on Ebay etc from overseas. It is illegal to import a complete set. They can be sent as components and put together here, but not delivered here complete.

I have the Innotech brand. Mine is rechargeable with an optional training remote with adjustable settings. Rechargeable is certainly better than a battery only one - as I have found the battery ones tend to use odd sized batteries (The flat calculator type or short camera/car remote style) not the common "AAA" or "AA". I would not recommend them for a primary fence. I have used mine as a secondary fence and have still had them go through the secondary (beep/correction) fence and straight through the sheep mesh and out of the property. The danger here is if they get a fright - bolt straight through the correction line, get a zap which hurts and makes them more fearful, they will not want to come back across the wire. OR - they realise it is only a small zap and are willing to take that punishment as the reward on the other side is FAR greater than the punishment administered. I have also found the wire they use is pretty thin. It is single core copper wire with a thin plastic coating. I threaded mine through cheap garden irrigation pipe (available at Big W etc) and made my loop around that way. The wire is protected a bit better from the elements and corrosion if there is a nick in the plastic sleeve. To make a safe zone, you have to loop the wire back and over itself for gates or areas where the dog is allowed to go. If you use a wide buffer or warning area, make sure the "safe zone" does not overlap this. EG - you set up a warning zone of 2m (where the collar may emit a warning tone). Yet a passageway or gate area is only 1m wide, if the dog tries to pass through this, it will still get a zap. I have also found the dog soon learns when the collar is on and when it is off. You cannot or definitely SHOULD NOT leave the collar on 24/7 as the prongs will cause irritation in the neck from rubbing against the skin. The collar needs to be firm as the prongs have contact with the skin. If you have a long haired dog - you may need to clipper a bit of fur off where the prongs/collar sits so you have contact. So training is absolutely essential. The kits come with warning flags and an instructional DVD/leaflet. IT still comes down to the smarts of the dog too on whether they can figure the loopholes in the system. I had one border collie, who used to sit in the beep/warning zone until she flattened the battery (as it was only two CR3021 flat things) then go through the fence. Same border collie worked out the solar electric fence unit and when the electric stock fence was on or off. (we have electric fences for the livestock - with one wire at dog height running the perimeter of the stock fences). On a side note, the cattle also worked out the solar electric fence and also when it is on and off.

You can send hip/elbow X-rays to Rawlinson in SA. I have heard that he is going on holiday soon. Dint know when or how long. May pay to check if in a rush Edit: confirmed Rawlinson's holiday dates 26 March until 8 May 2014.

if anything they go the other way? taking the ovaries out and leaving the uterus.... this is the procedure taught in european vet schools over the ovariohysterectomy - rather they do an ovariectomy via key hole surgery. The issue with having ovaries is that they provide the stimulus to the uterine wall which eventually tends to lead to cystic endometrial hyperplasia... which in turn tends to be the starting point for pyometra. Without the ovaries, the uterus does not do this. With ovaries, and with a stump of a uterus, you could still get a stump pyometra (I believe). This is the issue with having a bitch that has been speyed but has remnant ovarian tissue - they can get a stump pyometra. So you can see that the ovariectomy does not tend to leave you with bitches still getting pyometra, because there is no input... Plus your benefits for mammary tumours would be lost if the ovaries are still there.... certainly the issues with growth plates and increased risk of various other cancers would be there. I think many owners would also not choose to have a bitch still coming into season for all intents and purposes every 6 months.... and should those ovaries ever need to come out I would not want to be the vet fishing for them with no uterus as a guide certainly could be done but a much more difficult procedure. I am no vet. I am going for what they do in humans- hysterectomy. Doctors take the uterus, but leave the ovaries (unless there is cause to take them too for medical reasons). If the ovaries go, then you go into early menopause. Pyometra also occurs in humans. I had a hysterectomy at 30. Never had kids. Something I have never looked back on. No after effects, no mass mood swings. Don't have a cervix so no embarrassing test every 6-12 months. Best thing ever. If a vet can say this is not possible - ie this sort of op on dogs?

Read the Product leaflet and if necessary the MSDS. They will give you the correct with holding periods

I always suggest to breeders/exhibitors to see if they can make savings wherever possible. I have even taken dogs on tickets with me when I have flown to save people some money. Not sure the significance of the border collie national in Melbourne, the people were asking for 22kg dog from Perth to Brisbane! Same specifications as your earlier post. May I suggest that someone has read the post and enquired to see what my prices would be! More than likely then.

Guess my male dogs missed this memo :laugh: The worst one I have seen of this was an early desexed pound dog. Damn thing was most annoying at the dog park I used to go to. Humped everyone and would not leave them alone, and peed on everything. Owner complained of that one. Found it is more bad training than hormones.

The study I read, was not so much about desexing as taking everything, rather a vasectomy to prevent breeding, but leaving the testes as it has been found testosterone is not only just needed for reproduction, but also is needed for healthy living. ( I have the article here somewhere, but cannot remember exactly what tester one was also needed for) Given this in mind, I would definitely support vasectomy sterilisation where the testes are kept intact. However, you have to also make such a radical move to the status quo moron and bureaucratic proof. A much harder feat. As for bitches, they can desex, but leave the ovaries the same as they do in people. Ovaries are also valued hormones for more than just reproduction.

Lol.. Not from me. ???? Blue went accompanied with a friend over to Perth earlier this year via qantas. The $135 was the accompanied price I paid direct at AAE terminal. No third freight company used. My friend had her WACCC card with her, so he took over my dog and two of her own on heir airline ticket. I use the crate exchange group on FB to use the flight to return a XL crate she had sent over awhile ago for one of her poodles. My dog is due to return in June. I had looked into returning him earlier by freight rather than accompanied. had priced from Dogtainers here a price to bring him home. (Jet pets at the time would not answer their phone) Dogtainers price was $640 inc crate hire. I rang jet pets again later that day and was quoted $540 inc. crate hire. $100 cheaper than Dogtainers. Cheaper again if I had my own crate (about $80 from memory). Virgin has been cheaper when I haven been flying pups around than qantas. However I have found that some smaller airports only have only one freight company. Launceston was virgin, whereas Canberra was qantas, so I could not specify in these circumstances which airline I wanted the pup to fly when I had made my booking. Wayrid, the border collie national is on at the month in Melbourne , if your enquiries are border collie dogs, so that could be the reason for the queries.

I would go with the breeder who has a dog in style and type that you are after, so long as they do any health testing, conform to the standard etc and are structurally sound. If your breeder friend is a REAL friend, they would understand and support your decision. This is not intended as a slight at the breeder, but as your friend first, breeder second they should understand and support your decision. I also think you have answered your own question in your first post ????

Be aware that different franchises of Dogtainers may quote you different prices. You can ring any of the franchises for a quote, the Canberra one was always well priced; you don't have to ring the franchise in Brisbane if you are departing ex Brisbane, any one of the franchises can book it for you I just rang their 1300 number. I have also found a big difference in price between which carrier you use. Virgin tends to be cheaper than Qantas. However you also do not have a choice with some airports as some carriers do not freight animals. Eg from memory - Canberra only has Qantas freight.

Yes, that was with own crate. It was an XL vari kennel. There is a FB group called "crate exchange". Someone in Perth needed their crate back, so used their crate in this instance, the crate was for a standard poodle, so I paid slightly more to get him over. There maybe someone also in your area who needs a crate taken back. Make sure if you do go accompanied, if you book straight into qantas if you them, you tell them you are a ANKC member Otherwise, look at 2nd crates on gumtree etc

It costs the same as a female desexing (possibly more if they have to go searching for it) and depending on the vet on how exorbitant their charges. Cannot see what is wrong with the general 6-9 month where most pet people desex. I also advise my puppy buyers to desex about 12-14 months providing they are not having issues with the dog's maleness. I also believe that the dogs needs its bits to mature properly before getting the chop. Some pet owners just want to get it done with early, and yes some vets love to push it at the 5-6 month mark. Why would you go in twice to desex? I cannot understand that for two lots of surgery and anaesthetic, not to mention double the cost. It's unnecessary. The only one winning there is the vet.

Just got a quote from jet pets for a flight of a 22kg dog from Perth to Brisbane, inc hire crate $540. Dogtainers was $100 dearer. Accompanied $135 Fights to and from Perth to Brisbane either leave here at an ungodly hour of the morning or evening, or the same on the other side. I have a friend in Perth as well as my sister. I am either picking them up at 11pm or 6am. Dogs need to be at the airport 1.5-2 hrs prior to plane leaving

As above. That is fine. No more than three litters within 18 months. I have heard of people doing a third, it then really comes down to the penalty CCC wishes to impose. Sometimes can be a small slap on the wrist, or can be significant.

I have had it. Sold a pup as a pet with both firmly in the sack at 8 weeks. The litter brother I kept did not drop one. I got the pup back at 12 months and both disappeared. Sadly that pup did not end up in a good home and subsequent homes. Was badly duped by buyer (long story) Don't know if purely genetic or part genetic with an environmental contribution. Eta: the pup I kept, I sold at 4 months as I have the belief, not down by 16 weeks don't breed it and had him desexed prior to leaving, the vet was able to palate that naughty testicle down and do a "normal" desexing. Did not have to go looking for it.

Sorry but this is utter bollocks and needs to be corrected. Waivers can actually be legally valid and enforceable in court and this will be for the court to determine based on all the facts presented to it. And law firms certainly don't use them to drum up business. Sorry, that is a direct quote from a leading law firm in a letter I have here. Cannot correct what I have in black and white. It was a response we were given as we as a club were asking about waivers. Regardless of whether you think it is correct or not, it's food for thought.

Personally - accidents happen. I can see both sides - loss of income, medical expenses etc and the woman should have been more aware of her surroundings. However - technically, the dog owners are responsible for the actions of the dogs. They are bound by legislation to have "effective control" of their animals. Even though this was an off lead park and a resonable person would expect dogs to be running around and also be at risk of an accident. Are the dog owners negligent? Depends on the legal representatives if this went to court. Depends on your point of view whether the dog owners were aware of the woman and what/if any steps were taken to prevent the dogs from running in her direction and causing injury. If such a thing ended up in court - I think it could fall either way. I think personally though, it would lean more in favour of the woman than the dog owners. On a side note, my 4x4 club are exploring similar guidance from lawyers. Another club has banned dogs on camping trips because of some incidents involving members dogs. Essentially the committee is worried that if someone is injured or bitten by a dog while on a club trip, the injured party can sue the committee for allowing the dog to come on the trip. In our by laws it has " a dog must be on lead at all times". Legal advice is this is admitting there is a risk - similar to "beware of the dog sign" on your fence. If someone trips over said leash - you can be liable. Legal advice- keep it vague " a dog must be under control by owner at all times". Waivers are often drummed up by legal houses to drum up business, and can easily be stepped on when disputing in court. Basically not wort the paper they are printed on. In essence. It is a grey area and so real right answer. It depends on your lawyer.

Even if the rule is pushed through and near all and sundry can get a MR dog from QLD breeders. It is not going to stop those who just want to make a buck from an entire dog. If the person does not want to spend the money ($133 application fee) and time getting a prefix then spending a further $109 per year on single membership with prefix maintenance (until they up the fees next year again) then a further $40/pup for litter registration and do it correctly and responsibly then they won't. If they only want to breed "family pets" they will. What register the dog is on doesn't really matter nor play in influence. Placing more dogs on the MR is not going to automatically make these group of people suddenly decide to spend more money on becoming an ANKC Registered breeder. The problem is, many don't when they can still get $500 - $800 for a puppy from "pedigree parents with papers" (Whether they be main or limit) and not have the further expense of membership for what?? A $40 certificate saying your pup is pedigree?? Most pet people don't really care about that piece of paper. Many pet people don't think the paper is REALLY WORTH anything USEFUL! I often get asked "how much for unregistered/unpapered" - they just don't get it is only $40 to register a pup - they seem to think the "pedigree" certificate is hundreds of dollars. It is not more in QLD to place on Main or Limit. We can register straight into the new owner's name. We don't have to pay an extra Litter Registration fee as in Western Australia. If the pet person is genuine and really only wants a loving family pet - they are going to desex it anyway. It won't open up the gene pool any more just as much as if it was sold on the LR. What it will do is increase those who do breed for the fad pet market and who are registered gain access to better quality dogs. Are they going to automatically start to REALLY improve their breeding program to breed better animals, enter into showing, sports etc - especially if they are not doing it now or even doing the health testing etc now? Of course not!! They will cash in on the large kennel prefix's saying they have "XYZ" Champion lines as they do now - does not matter the the XYZ Champion was 5 generations ago. And how will this go with Southern Stud dog owners - will QLD breeders then have access to the same quality studs if to abide by QLD rules we have to put everything on MR and open it up to the "registered" dodgy ANKC breeders. Times have changed. Like it or not. If people were not so keen to make a quick buck - we would not be in this position. It would be as it was 20 years ago. Old breeders mentoring young ones and encouraging them into the sport and teaching them the lines/genetics etc. It also comes down to a supply vs demand. IF the pet people are willing to fork out stupid sums of money for dogs, then the breeder will cater and supply the market at the inflated prices.

I feed mine chicken necks/wings before they go. If I can also get lamb flaps/brisket bones they will also get those. Puppy buyers also get a list of what is suitable and when. I recommend not to feed hard marrow bones until the pups have all their teeth about 6 months. Mainly because they have a tendency (anyway) to break canine teeth, so I recommend, chicken/turkey, lamb brisket and lamb/beef soup bones. When I get marrow bones anyway, I get the butcher to slice them down the middle so they can get the marrow out of the middle.

BCCrazy, I use a good quality pin brush. I do have rakes and coat kings. I use them sparingly and do the same - lift up the top coat and do the undercoat particularly around the pants and rump. I have never bothered with the furminator - the ad in pet stores were enough to turn me off than to entice. For the average pet owner, they would just see all that fur off, and not realise it is cutting everything to achieve it. I also frequently hydro bath them in just plain warm water (no soap or just a gentle everyday/puppy shampoo) and then sick the blow dryer on them. Found that helps heaps to loosen dead coat to get it out quicker.

Sheena. I find they really strip the coat and not in a good way. No matter how you try to only get the undercoat, it ciute the top coat and I have also found if you are not careful, it scores the skin. I have one, but I don't particularly like them. Not bad if you don't really care or want to strip out more than the undercoat

Clipping down because of a suspected tick paralysis or a medical is far different from people wanting to clip because they do not like the hair or think they are doing the dog a favour in summer. My argument is my black BC go out in the heat of the in summer and SUNBAKE!!!

When I was a groomer, I shaved a bc every 6 weeks. He had horrible allergies. His skin was flakey, had cruds and crusts and needed to be washed in coal tar shampoo. No matter how much you tried to tell them, they still insisted on having him shaved and blamed the breed for having this problem. It did not matter I had four without a problem and have had the breed for 12 years without issue.....

I posted this also in general but thought it was also good to post in the grooming section. A good read for those with coated breeds who either now shave their dogs in summer or are considering shaving their dogs in summer. This topic comes up often. Maybe the MODS can put a sticky to this? http://ekcgrooming.com/2014/02/23/8-reasons-why-not-to-shave-your-dog/