Mystiqview

I don't think this is quite right. The council doesn't know anything about my status with Dogs Qld, yet I have a breeders permit. (I chose to go this way so that I can choose whether or not to desex - all my dogs are desexed so I haven't told the council I'm a CCCQ member. The alternative 'Companion' animal permet mandates desexing.) From my understanding they don't care if the pups are going on a registry or not. They simply want 'breeders' ie: people who have multiple litters from an individual dog or cat to be registered with them, keep the property appropriately clean and keep records of dogs that come and go from the property. This extends to people who 'show' dogs which includes trialling dogs, not just conformation showing. http://www.brisbane.qld.gov.au/forms/ca10193_animal_permit_conditions_breeder_or_show.pdf The ANKC, Greyhound etc comes in when it comes to registering individual dogs. ie: You don't have to desex an animal to get the discount if they are regsitered with any of the bodies you mentioned. BCC has two permits: A breeder's permit - this allows you to breed your animals. Although will allow ONE "accident" where no permit is required. And a domestic animal permit - allows you to keep more than two dogs (providing they are desexed) I did have this novel idea to live in suburbia and had a breeders permit with BCC. When I held my permit with BCC, I had to be a member and prove registry to Dogs Qld and had to produce my Dogs Qld ID to Council. I have since moved back to the family property (and less neighbours) in Moreton Shire Council where I have kept my permit valid from when I used to live there. When I first lived in Moreton Shire (Then Pine Rivers Shire), only registered breeders were given breeder's permits. I know that Moreton has laxed the rules to include non registered breeders and have hiked the permit fees (so they claim to be "inline with other councils" from $40/year to over $100/year in 2013). BCC's animal companion permit only allows you to keep excess (ie more than 2 dogs) - similar to one in Moreton Shire. When I was a Animal Management Officer with Ipswich, we did not have breeder's permits. When I left there in 2012 they were doing talks with other councils to come inline with them and were talking about introducing Breeder Permits. So going be SeeGee's comment - they have introduced this.

As for breeder permits Depends on which council. Both Brisbane and Moreton Shire require ALL breeders (ANkc and in Moreton Shire including BYB) to have council breeder permits. Ipswich used to not have breeder permits, but don't know what they do now. Don't know Logan or Gold Coast. At minimum the dogs need to be registered with council. Bris city do not provide permits for non registered (there is from memory ankc, greyhound and other registriea) so by a BYB breeding they are already contravening their Local Laws.

8 weeks. It is also legislation (animal management act 2008) that all breeders are to microchip pups prior to sale. At 5 weeks, they are generally avoiding the above. Council officers Do have the power to investigate and prosecute for failure to adhere to animal management act and also their own council by laws

It really depends on the person. I would probably go co-own until the health testing is completed. At least to initially ensure it is done. I have sold a bitch to a supposed friend and fellow breeder only to be ripped off, they did no health testing and then they had the bitch disposed of after they bred her, with no option to get her back etc. then bad mouthed the dog and me. As for prefix and needing a bitch: why go through all the time and expense getting a prefix before you can get something to breed? ANKC will not allow bitches to be bred for at least 12 months to 18 months. And depending on person , they may not wish to breed until bitch even older. So I can see why a person may hold off until they get something first. The person may also be happy to breed said bitch physically but it will be bred under the initial breeders prefix. I can understand hesitations from breeders who own popular breeds involved in BYB rings. But at some point, we as a general whole need to start trusting someone new to the breed. If said person also has been a very responsible pet owner previously, that is favorable.

What a load of codswallop. Could not disagree more with the OP There are so many variables. I know people who are at home full time and cannot manage their children let alone a pet/puppy/dog. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion. But that is a very large call to make about everyone who works full time.

Her real name is Scarlet. It took us awhile to name her, she was known as "munchkin" although she did and does like to munch on anything so it has been shortened to "munch" she responds more to this than her real name. Yeah pricked ears are a fault. You can kinda get away with heavy ears, depending on what else is in the ring, but pricked- don't bother. It was just probably something with teething as she is still just 4.5 months. I don't think her owner/breeder would be happy if I didn't do something to stop em pricking.

Thanks heaps. BC crazy, Yeah, Munch is in the last stages of losing teeth. Her breeder wants to show her in two weeks... Got home from work last week to find one ear standing up. Whiting/snowcal is just calcium carbonate. They use it in line marking on sports fields. Much nicer than cement.

Thank you. While I am not against taping ears etc. cement and engine oil are both pretty hard chemicals. This one is easy to get out too and is no way near as harsh on the skin. I was given some awhile back and I have nearly used it up and am needing to make more

I was given a recipe awhile ago to use a safer paste to weight the tips of collie ears. It had Whiting (white snowcal powder), stockholm tar and castor oil in it. The recipe I had was to mix equal ingredients of the above. I think however much less liquid is used. I have tried a google search, without much luck

I know they were a kill group. They advertise NO kill. There is the discrepancy.

It cost me another $150 to fix where the bars has broken away at the top. Instill have the chunky welds on the fixed wheels. It's unsightly, but they are not broken. They had assembled it I think upside down or something on one end as well as the bottom catches on the swivel wheels when you try to fold it flat. My hubbie grinded away a bit on the top of the wheel bracket so it would close ages ago. I still have the email chain and the diary records of phone calls to them. I was led on and promised the earth as well. I did get a c-pen as she promised however that was all wrong too so sold it. The trolley is now in my grooming area being one very expensive crate.

I had chunky welds. A school student studying metal work could do better welds than what was done by them. Of course there was an excuse for that. I have has one of the gate welds at the top of the door broke apart and gashed open my hand while i was pushing it around. Did not bother contacting them after that. They cannot take responsibility for their work and have an excuse for everything and plead hard done by. You would get a better response from talking to a brick wall. At the time I bought mine, there were reports of others waiting up to 9 months and still nothing. And when they did turn up, the work was dodgy. It has been cheaper and much easier and far less stress to take it to a local fabricator here and get them to fix all the problems than deal back with C Crates. The crate is still poor compared to my old original.

When the pound I worked out of was taken over by a so called "no kill agency" the kill bins were just as full if not more so than when the council owned and ran it. We were still getting in the approximate same number of dogs and cats as before. The same irresponsible owners dumped their dogs in the overnight lockers or let them be picked up by us rangers. The dogs were not all having behavioral issues. They just were not rehomed or put in foster. At the end of their allotted time, they were given the green dream. Sorry. But no home does equal kill. Otherwise they are overflowed with dogs and cats. There will always be irresponsible pet owners.

Dogs will get rehomed for a variety of reasons - some genuine some not - There is always going to be a "need" for a pound of some description. Not all puppy buyers who even buy from a registered breeder bother to contact them and tell them they cannot keep the pup. It is not until the new owner contacts you that you know a pup has been rehomed and the new owner has contacted you to find out information about the dog. Some pound dogs are there because they keep escaping and are brought in by Animal Management Officers or members of the public. When I was an AMO - I was certainly responsible for taking some of these same animals to the council pound. It was my job. The owners given the appropriate notices to remedy. Some did, some just left the dogs there to be put down. Some kept paying the release fee and still never bothered to fix the reason why the dogs kept escaping and ending up in the pound. Some after so many attempts just gave up and said they could not just keep going and left the dogs there. The two boxers in this case were later put to sleep. In this example, the owners had spent a fortune on 8 foot fencing, digging it in and angleing it over at the top. Also on release fees. Eventually they just had enough. Try rehoming an adult boxer that jumps/escapes 8 foot fences to general joe public. Not an easy feat. The majority of the dogs in our pound were bull breeds. Not the cutest dogs in the world. Known wanderers and escape artists. Even AWL did not want them. They took the cute fluffy little dogs off us to rehome, but left the majority of the medium to larger dogs to fate. There were then some working mixes there, and you could tell they were not well cared for by their owners. A well cared for dog in most cases was reunited with their owners, with some owners coming in daily to look through the pound to see if their pet was picked up. Especially after a storm or other major event. We had the odd genuine one who could no longer look after the dog through sickness - however I could count those instances on two hands. We had an influx about two months after Christmas of juvenile pups going through that horrible chew/destruct age and are no longer cute. Unfortunately, some were tried to be surrendered, but they people did not want to pay surrender fees, so dumped the dogs in the after hours/night drop boxes. One pup was bought from Pets Paradise (Cattle dog pup) and was dumped with all its paperwork from the pet store because it started to nip the children... They paid $900 for this pup and paid the surrender fees, knowing full well there was a chance the pup would be put to sleep if no home was found in the nominated time. The pup was 12 weeks old. A large percentage of dogs were not microchipped. It has been law in QLD to microchip dogs since 2008 - however you still see many ads on the free websites where dogs/pups are sold without microchipping. Of those that were microchipped, about one third were still in the name of the breeder and not the owner. Some times the breeder was interstate and hard to contact. As we could not release the dog without being desexed, the breeder often did not want the dog back as they would have to pay release fees/desexing. There were not a lot of pedigree dogs that came in - most were obviously crosses and then many were bull breed crosses. Demographics may have influenced this to some degree based on door to door surveys of dogs and cats in the council area, but this is hard to quantify. When buying an adult from anywhere - you don't know its history. There are good foster carers and there are not so good foster carers. Temperament testing and behavioural testing is largely subjective and is depending on triggering each reaction from certain stimuli. If not triggered during the testing, it can go undetected until the new owner has it. A puppy - again no matter where you buy it. Many factors influence how that pup will grow up and what kind of dog it will be as an adult. At least with a puppy, you have a certain amount of blank slate to train good habits into it rather than having to retrain bad habits out of an older dog and then new ones in and still never fully knowing if they will resurface again later. I will always go pedigree from responsible breeders who know the lines and do the research. If I was to suggest to someone to get a rescue - I will go first with a puppy for the reasons listed above. Then an adult dog from a responsible breeder and then depending on why the adult is being rehomed. I would always be cautious of a dog being returned as obviously for some reason it did not work out and there could be behavioural issues that need to be attended to - it could be a simple basic obedience and manners or something much more. I would be more comfortable with a breeder rehoming a potential show/competition dog that did not cut it out for their chosen sport or an old breeder being retired. Depending on what the breed was, I would then go with something like GAP (Greyhound Adoption Program) or a breed rescue, well reputable foster with known good carers over a pound dog, where very little REAL attention is paid to the animal.

They do it for GSD's don't they... why not the other breeds????

If good pedigree breeders do NOT advertise where the general ignorant (and not in a derogatory way) public look for puppies (eg Trading post, gumtree etc) then all they will know is the "purebred" breeder or even worse puppy farmer advertising on the same sites. There is still a perception out there that pedigree breeders are up them selves and are overpriced as compared to the purebred breeder. Threads like this where some pedigree people look down their noses at those who do advertise on Gumtree etc as inferior etc does not help that perception. The puppy buyer may not know to look into the health problems and what extra steps a good pedigree breeder does to ensure their pups are happy and healthy. Information in the same space and an approachable attitude will go a long way to slowly educate those who are just ignorant of the pedigree dog world or may be biased by other media about how bad we are. The good old days are gone. Some buyers will compare animals solely on price. Some people's budget may not just stretch past a "purebred" pup and will just buy from there no matter what is done to convince them otherwise. Others will always impulse buy and go to a pet shop or nearest person selling cheap or cute pups. Some people just don't know what the importance of pedigrees are if you want to compete in dog sports. To most pet buyers, they are just a piece of paper - so what and not that important to just owning a family pet. Some still think you have to pay hundreds more to get that (stupid) piece of paper, not a measly $40 (QLD Price). I would still rather spend the time talking with each potential puppy buyer (even if I don't have any myself) and try to steer them to a good ethical breeder than shove them towards an unethical one.

Hi Erny, It maybe an old thread, but it looks like things have not improved with time. Not good

I have had sores develop on using advantix under the application spot. My theory: The undercoat of the dog's coat soaks up the oil of the product and sits above the skin. moisture gets under the oil layer causing a sore. Have found this particular if I have done a couple of spots down the dogs back. has happened on a couple of collies. I do part the fur and apply to the skin, however bcs undercoat can be quite thick and some will naturally absorb some of the product. I spoke to the company who makes advanntix, they said I had hot spots and it not have been their product. I don't use top spots for ticks. Frontline is useless, Advantix not much better. In all honesty, I don't think the tick collars are much chop either. I just make sure they are checked twice daily for ticks.

I had to wait 4 months for my trolley to arrive two years ago. Build quality was crap. service even worse. Would not recommend them in a pink fit

Pinch, cut in half or whatever and throw them aside. They are dead, they can do no further harm Flushing down the toilet is a waste of water when you live on tanks.

Who cares where a breeder advertises? So long as the breeder does the right thing by the breed, does the health tests and raises and sells their puppies responsibly and ethically, the advertisement means not important. Unfortunately and sadly, just because a breeder has a CCC prefix and membership does not automatically make them ethical. Those in each breed know who the bad apples are, yet they can advertise in the same places and be thought of to be just as ethical as they have also advertised on Dogs Online along with the ethical breeders of the same breed/s. It is sad to see the same ads week in and week out from the same breeders constantly advertising litters and puppies. Some and I have read similar comments from other breeders of those who have near permanent ads on Dogs Online selling puppies with a near constant stream of upcoming litters. yet because they advertise on a pedigree web site, it is all ok. yet someone who may breed one or two litters a year advertising in the local paper, gumtree or elsewhere is a bad bad person.

I advertise when confirmed in whelp. No point in advertising before, so much can happen. I do not as such take names waiting. I have found too that many who ask to go onto a waiting list, do not want to wait and often will get a puppy from somewhere else sooner. Depending on the time of expression (generally after bitch has come into season to the birth of the pups) I will let them know I have a litter of X males and X females. I do not take deposits until the pups are two weeks when the eyes open. Some pups are obvious pets based on markings etc and I will say these are available. Depending on what I am wanting to keep, some sexes may also be available before my choice of keeper at 8 weeks.

I agree with Steve and Sandra. Questionnaires are impersonal and can appear as a barrier between breeder and puppy buyer. There are already too much SMS, text or the opportunity to hide behind an email. A questionnaire also gives the opportunity for a puppy buyer to research their answer and provide an answer you may want to hear. I would rather screen people by talking to them. Those that are serious will make a number of contacts and during these you can find out whether they would be suitable or not. You can gauge by their voice and answers whether they are thinking of a suitable answer or whether they are answering honestly and up front. Most of my pups have been sold by the time they are 6 weeks and I have never had pups after 8 weeks. There are enough posts on here about what to put into a questionnaire, what answers to give breeders and what questions to ask puppy buyers.

As others have said. It can be so variable, each dog can react differently to the same product, even it is dosed correctly. It is always really important to read the product leaflet before applying any product. You can generally also get a pdf copy of it from the internet before going out and purchasing the product. Also it is good to read the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet). If you do not understand it, always talk to your vet first. It could have been a reaction to the fleas, or it could have been a reaction to the product or even something totally unrelated that just so happened to be at the same time as you saw the fleas and dosed them. There is that slim possibility. We have a tendency to always look to the most obvious. I would probably not use the same product again on that dog. Take a note of the active ingredients to make sure you do not buy another product containing the same ingredient. I would also treat the house and surrounding areas with a flea bomb or similar. you need to break the cycle at your place and the topical flea treatments do not fully do this.

I used ASAP to colour test my dog back in March. Since then I am still chasing a correct certificate. They have sent me 6 versions so far... All different. All different to what I have been told on the phone and via email. After my experience, I have no confidence in their testing and reporting. They could not even get their accounting right. They wanted blood sample because my dog is a TNS carrier for research. They initially agreed to do the colour testing in exchange. They ended up charging me for a complete test kit (not ordered) then refunded me half. Then some months later sent me a statement for a credit for what they had already refunded me. I have sent them the copies of the certificates they have sent to me.. Twice now, and I am still waiting for a response, let alone what I paid for.... A correct certificate. You will pay more, but try gtg or genetic technologies.