Salukifan

Old horse show trick.. wash the stained part in sunlight soap. Follow with a whitening shampoo. I haven't found them any harsher than regular dog shampoo.

Add some non digestible fiber to the reduced portion. Dry baked pumpkin will fill them up.

I wonder, if you described what you loved about your last dog, it would lean more towards the JRT or the Chi side... it may be that one of those purebreds might quite suit you.

Sounds like she's mildly incontinent. It's often hormonal and not uncommon in older bitches. Take the dog and a urine sample to the vet. If a UTI is ruled out, there is medication that can be given to stop the leaking.

There is a process you go through to get ANKC recognition. I don't know the ins and outs of it but I think it is outlined on the website. As far as I know it is fairly straight-forward as long as the breed has KC registration elsewhere in the world and a standard to use as a template (or to simply adopt). The breed must be recognised in its country of origin and by the Kennel Club that the ANKC recognises for that country. I love the idea of new breeds being established here but if you are new to purebred dogs you need to proceed carefully and take advice ONLY from the ANKC. The right kind of pedigree must be provided with the dog, if the breed is not recognised that has to be done and it's not a short process. Go straight to the horse's mouth and get ANKC advice. The next challenge will be getting a quality import. If you have no credentials in confromation or performance sport, my honest advice is to get those FIRST.

Mountain leads

How is the puppy class area cleaned? Does the shop sell pups? What you've got in a pet shop is steady traffic from dog owners. Some them will own dogs that are not vaccinated or that visit high risk areas. If the class area is not cleaned with a really high quality disinfectant that can handle things like parvo, I'd be giving it a miss.

Prey drive with an animal not socialised to tell the difference between prey and non-prey animals can be a tragedy waiting to happen. Small dogs die in dog parks because of it. That's why you actually have to go through a process of socialising a dog, ANY dog to a new born baby... and to be extra careful with the tiny babies.

Personally I think a lot of breeds suffer from being selected for their appearance by people with little grasp of the drives that go with that breed. I'd not "blame" any dog for having high prey drive. God knows I have such dogs. Why be "insulted" about something that, for the most part, is an intrinsic element of a breed. Acknowledge, manage it and never forget that it's there. That is all that is required.

Everytime I read about someone's exhausting puppy socialisation schedule, I'm reminded of the flash card parents from the movie Parenthood. Learn what you can, do what you can. Obviously for some pups NO socialisation isn't going to be great. For other pups with roles or jobs to do, socialisation increases in importance. But just making them part of your normal life in and outside your home is enough for most. They're not made of glass. A decently run baby puppy class and a good well organised training club or training classes will help. Most of us can manage that.

My first thought also. These breeds and neonatal babies are NOT a good combination without the usual sensible precautions. Yonjuro you've had an almost identical attack by a Husky on a baby in your State. That one was fatal. Read about it here It seems it takes these breeds a while to recognise that mewling critter as a human child. Once they do, they are fine with the usual precautions for any dog. Your group could be a great resource for teaching people about the need to be vigillant during a baby's first months in a house. Rather than taking it as an insult to your breed, LEARN about this and EDUCATE so that people are prepared, not surprised. It is a real and documented issue with your breed. The benchmark book Fatal Dog Attacks, by Karen Delise documents it. Google "husky neonatal baby attack" and read. No shortage of cases outside the UK and they all follow a predictable path... less than 4 month old infant, dog has access unsupervised.,

Or you have a conveniently short memory. I can feed whatever I want yes. And I feed what a lot of knowledgeable people feed and my dogs do very well on it. There is more than one way to feed a dog a decent balanced diet and it pays to bear that in mind when advising on nutrition. Royal Canin lists is products by weight after dehydration - a different approach to some other companies. Nonetheless, if people are whelping and raising happy healthy dogs on it, they must be doing something right. And in my breed, that's quite a few people. Are you breeding and raising sound healthy Bullmastiffs on your preferred diet? If you are then good luck to you - they are not the easiest of breeds to raise sound.

Her prey drive is the same as it ever was.. but now she knows what to do with it and has been self rewarding for hunting. Killing animals is very satisfying for a dog. Other than providing stronger containment for your other animals, I'm at a loss to suggest what you can do now. My guess is she and pocket pets/possums will not be a good combination going forward.

Your Vet is likely to recommend whatever they have in the clinic that is probably expensive and full of fillers. Agreed. I can tell you now it will be one of Eukaneubra, Royal Canin, or Hills. All low quality grain heavy foods with low digestibility. In your opinion. ALL kibble has fillers. Until such time as it is proven that vegetables and lentils make better fillers than grains, I'll continue to feed Royal Canin - a food highly rated by a lot of sighthound people, including me. Less than 10 posts here and you're already forum members how wrong we've all got it. Interesting.

One more thing. Invest in a few coats that don't need to have his legs put through them. They'll be warm enough.

Have you had him thoroughly vetted? Chiropracted? It would be good to eliminate what you are getting as a pain reaction. Invest in a muzzle. My guess is muzzled you may all relax a bit. I'd also suggest you contact Aidan Bindoff about this.

When it happens in a larger dog, my first reaction is to suggest that the dog be chiropracted.. can be a sign hips are out.

Rubbish sighthounds doesn't equate to chase everything ,there no different than any breed of dog ,they either get on with cats or they don't & yes i have owned sighthounds. No dog should be classed cat friendly ,just like not all cats are dog friendly. Should also add our friend who has owned Wolfhounds for many years dogs always shared there home with cats & a small dog . Sorry, but a breed specifically bred for generations for sight and movement motivated prey drive is NOT the same as any other breed of dog. For a start, their ability to catch and kill cats is higher due to their speed. Once that drive is triggered, it can be hard to switch off. Some sighthounds will be fine with cats they know.. and kill others they see. But most educated sighthound owners with cats don't ever leave their dogs and cats unsupervised. Too many tragic results. If an IW decides a cat is toast, the cat has no chance. Too many sighthounds end up in rescue because their owners underestimate their prey drive. The rise of urban poultry keeping is seeing more Whippets in rescue now. Dogs aint dogs folks. You need to grasp what they were bred to do and what drives come along with that. Expect them to live a life ignoring those drives at your peril (and theirs). Sighthounds,, quiet country drives and livestock or wildlife can also end up badly if you want the dog to be offlead. Sighthounds are not the dog for us by the sounds of this. I don't think we would be experienced enough to take the risk and the end result would be devastating if something should occur. Some sighthounds are easier than others. However 75kg+ of prey driven dog is a LOT of dog. If the notion of keeping dogs and cats separate when you are not around is not one you fancy then a sighthound is not for you. If you were happy to do that and were prepared to scale down dog size for an 'easier' breed, you might look at Whippets. However if you are a "big dog" fan, they may not be to your taste.

Purebred dogs were developed over generations to increasethe predictability of attributes such as size, coat type and temperament. They were developed generally to perform a function and traits such as bite thresholds, bite inhibition, prey drive,people focus, biddability, aggression to other dogs or to people were bred in or out of the dogs to increase their suitability for that function. When you mix disparate breeds of dogs, all that predictability goes out the window. So, when you go to look at a mixed breed pup, you're taking a chance on all of those characteristics. So, when you see that pup, you probably want to get a feel for how interested and responsive to you it is, what sort of bite inhibition it has and how it reacts to strange dogs and people. Whilst these traits can be shaped to some degree by socialisation and training, some behaviour is hardwired. Of course, in an adult mixed breed what you see is what you get. There are some pretty damn challenging breed mixes around and one of them that I've seen is husky mixes. High prey drive, great endurance and pack rather than people focus is fabulous in a sled dog. How it goes in apet can be another matter. Throw in some protectivenes if a guarding breed is added and you may end up with a pretty challenging dog. Your pup looks like such a mix to me. You really want to know how interested he or she is in people, treats (helpful for training) and how responsive she is toyou. If you feel that she's more interested in you than checking out everything else, that's great. If not, then training will be more challenging. All things to consider beyond simply what breed or breeds are in her mix. Good luck!

If you want a dog that fits easily into the car for country drives and is up for a fair bit of walking, I'd steer clear of Giant breeds. I'd be looking in the 30-50kg or there abouts range and probably at the larger gun dogs as a start point.

Rubbish sighthounds doesn't equate to chase everything ,there no different than any breed of dog ,they either get on with cats or they don't & yes i have owned sighthounds. No dog should be classed cat friendly ,just like not all cats are dog friendly. Should also add our friend who has owned Wolfhounds for many years dogs always shared there home with cats & a small dog . Sorry, but a breed specifically bred for generations for sight and movement motivated prey drive is NOT the same as any other breed of dog. For a start, their ability to catch and kill cats is higher due to their speed. Once that drive is triggered, it can be hard to switch off. Some sighthounds will be fine with cats they know.. and kill others they see. But most educated sighthound owners with cats don't ever leave their dogs and cats unsupervised. Too many tragic results. If an IW decides a cat is toast, the cat has no chance. Too many sighthounds end up in rescue because their owners underestimate their prey drive. The rise of urban poultry keeping is seeing more Whippets in rescue now. Dogs aint dogs folks. You need to grasp what they were bred to do and what drives come along with that. Expect them to live a life ignoring those drives at your peril (and theirs). Sighthounds,, quiet country drives and livestock or wildlife can also end up badly if you want the dog to be offlead.

Can Chi's be bred for colour? Yes, any dog breed can be bred for particular colours where colour variation exists. Some colours are dominant, some recessive. Breeding for recessive or unusual colours is the fast track to genetic mediocrity. Should Chi's be bred for colour? No. Colour breeding tends to be the stamp of the lesser quality breeder. Structure, temperament and breed type will trump colour for the better breeders. We all have colour preferences but those preferences shouldn't be paramount when we breed. Colour is just the gift wrapping on a dog. What's underneath is what matters. I'd take a good dog of any colour over an ordinary one of a rare or fashionable one.

Funky sour smell? Anal glands would be my bet. Check those, ears and teefs. Was he fed what you feed?

Co-ownership of an entire male pet dog that is exhibited and used at stud has some practical implications for the pet owner: 1. You will have to become a member of your Canine Control - now and every year. All owners of exhibited dogs must be financial members. 2. The dog will need to be away from you to attend shows, and unless you sign up for it, for stud duty.Most of that away time will be weekends - you know that time when you get to actually see your dog during the day! You don't always get a lot of notice about stud work and it can be damn inconvenient to accomodate the timing of matings. 3. You will need to pay a higher fee to register the dog with council. 4. You need to think through carefully who will pay for the dog's upkeep, vet expenses, show entries and incidentals and who gets to keep the dogs winnings, ribbons, trophies and stud fees. 5. Entire male dogs can come with a few behavioural issues that make them more demanding pets than others. You can probably rule out trips to the dog park forever. 6. What happens to ownership of the dog and who determines whether or not he stays entire when his show career is over? 6. All arrangements need to be discussed, agreed and recorded in an agreement. For a pet owner with no interest in showing themselves? My honest advice is DON'T. I have a show dog in co-ownership. It's a perfectly amicable agreement but it is more complex than every being able to make a decision about your dog yourself. There will be other dogs that can be yours entirely with none of these complications. I suggest that patience will pay off in the end. I'm sure the wait will be shorter than the 10+ years a co-ownership agreement might be in force.

If this was done at the same time as vaccinations, my guess is that's what your dogs were given intra nasally. To the best of my knowledge, Proheart 12 is approved for injection only.