Salukifan

Has an exemption been agreed to re ACTCA members breeding ANKC registered bitches? No.

Best source of advice is probably your dogs' breeder.

Many thanks is a dog dryer different from a blow dryer ? And will keep my dog quite short as we live on an average lots of grass and seeds. Much bigger. Like a blow dryer on steroids - usually on a stand for hands free grooming.

There is a thing Susanne Clothier calls "obnoxious submission". This sounds like it - the "dominant" dog is expected to tolerate unwelcome attention and woe betide him if he doesn't. I'd not pet sit any dog that displayed aggression to my dog in this manner. Either separate them or find another client. It has to be damn stressful for your dog.

They are Sydney based.

With clippers you get what you pay for. Go Wahl, Andis, Oster. I groom my poodles with the Andis Pro 2 speed. Don't forget also that you groom STRAIGHT coat. This means you have to wash and blow it straight - which means you need a decent dog dryer too.

Rozzie, I suggest you buy a simple paracord show lead with a ring in it to start. They are cheap and washable. Then, if the bug bites, you can go for something fancier. Online, Pet Network are great. Something like this would be a good starter. In hounds we buy the lead to match the dog. Not sure what the ettiquette is in the MFCA.

I haven't done agility for quite a few years now but our club introduced "control tests" that checked out dogs with other dogs before they could commence agility training. They were introduced because the club was experiencing issues like you describe. We had obedience titled dogs fail. The level of arousal tends to spill some dogs over the edge. And when there were issues, it was largely the handler's failure to monitor the dog and react to recall it that were at fault. The time to get your dog's attention is when its next to you eyeing up another dog, not 20 feet away charging at it. Holidays are sometimes the only way of convincing a handler that the issue is serious and that THEY have to do something about it. Agility triallers won't manage their dogs for the benefit of a handler with control issues. Dogs cannot compete muzzled. To allow them to continue to train without that control is setting them up for a very public holiday following on from an aggression incident. You're doing the handler a favour if you insist they get the dog under control.

When the situation escalates ( and it tends to) you might be happy about that. If the handler cannot control the dog then it's a bloody nightmare for everyone else in the class. The liability issues of KNOWING a dog is a problem and continuing to allow it to participate shouldn't be discounted.

Call me harsh but I'd be giving them a holiday to work on sorting out reactivity. DA dogs are still capable of creating problems for other dogs when muzzled and if a dog decides to react back, they are sitting ducks. There is also the issue of the muzzle creating a catch hazard on equipment. They simply shouldn't be off lead in high arousal situations IMO. It isn't fair to other handlers. God knows you'd not want them trialing.

Whippets: High speed running and fragile skin lead to skin tears and the odd impact injury. Thievery - they excell at bench surfing and treasure hunting. The "don't you feed your dog" comments. They DO have prey drive and it irritates the bejesus out of me when people expect them to live with pocket pets and poultry without incident. Yes, some do. But NOT all. Poodles: Coat maintenance. Attitudes from people who think they're neurotic foo foos, not smart charming dogs who need to be treated as dogs and not pillow pets.

And increasingly persistent phone calls from your local vet with predictions of dire behavioural issues if you don't. Friend of mine with her first show dog went through this. "Oh yes, you can still show him if he's desexed" she was assured. Not at that time you couldn't.

I have two entire male dogs, admitedly of a breed where dog to dog issues are not common. They mix regularly with other entire males they know and are polite and well mannered among female dogs (because a few bitches have taught them manners), It's amazing how the general pressure to desex dogs has led to a perception among some people that an entire male dog must automatically be a handful. There's no question they can be "more dog" than others but that doesn't always equate to issues. Look at your dog, watch his behaviour, train him well and manage him accordingly. There are some sensible precautions any entire male dog owner should take about mixing with UNKNOWN entire male dogs and of course with entire bitches in season. For me, that rules out dog parks unless empty or you know the occcupants well. But they are way more than a pair of testicles and raging hormones on legs. I think your breeder's advice to wait until full maturity is very sensible and unless you have having issues with him, I'd not worry about desexing him at all. When people want to let their dogs rush my boys I tell them that my dogs are entire and may not take kindly to strange males... that seems to do the trick.

Yes, the tooth should be removed. No, I doubt it will change the chewing. That is better directed onto items she is allowed to chew and the mental stimulation she gets stepped up.

It's a no for me with my dogs. If I had a larger, mild mannered dog unlikely to take or give offence then maybe but then I'd be looking at the other owners and the behaviour of their dogs. They COULD be great. They so often aren't and that is down to who frequents them. With a pup, a small, old or frail dog or a dog that doesn't accept rudeness from others? No way.

I have worked on the principle that if the dog can get to food and water bowl and toilet itself under its own steam and seems happy, its OK to go on. But you really have to look at the dog in front of you. It's hard.

Tempting to post that to a FB group where some dog owners insist THEIR dogs would never hassle stock. Prey drive... few dogs don't have it.

8 months for my toy Poodle.

You know, a few years back on this forum I'd have analysed and debated about what happened with the best of them. Now I just think its a tragedy. For the child, her family and the owners of the dogs. Their lives will never be the same. And the other kids who witnessed it. They'll be traumatised too.

Hoping for a full recovery for everyone.

I think crate training would really assist here. Self control is something that some dogs have to be taught.

I honestly don't think you're going to train a dog out such fantastically self-rewarding behaviour. My primary concern would be that she'll have the others following her if she keeps it up. Unless you can train a bomb proof recall and catch her in the act (to recall her), you are down to managing it via prevention. Have you considered putting in a concrete floored run? That way you'd have someone where safe to put her when she can't be supervised.

Nope. If she is 10 weeks old, she doesn't have brilliant bladder control and if she is routinely peeing inside, she ain't toilet trained. Frankly she sounds like she doesn't have much idea at all. What were you doing when she looked at you... I had a pup that would pee EVERY TIME someone stood over her. It was not dominance.. quite the contrary. I think you would do best to look to yourselves for explanations as to what's going on rather than placing all the blame on the pup. If this continues, get someone to visit you at home soon. By 2 Sep, some behaviours will be fairly ingrained.

I'd have to say "yes" to "you can do better handling this". I'd also like you to remove the word "dominance" from your explanations of her behaviour. It may be popular with Cesar Milan but it rarely applies to pups. If the pup is weeing inside, it's YOU that needs to be put out. You're just not supervising effectively. She simply shouldn't be getting the chance to do it. She needs to either be supervised, or outside or in a crate. One pee inside gets 5 more according to my vet. If she is taken out when she wakes, after eating, and playing it will help. If the head goes down and she starts to sniff, take her out and praise her for doing it. Either supervise or contain her. "No' means NOTHING to a pup. Growling after the event also won't mean a thing. Reward what you want. Socially isolating her for your failure will just build anxiety and I actually wonder if what you are seeing is submissive wetting. Are you staying outside with her and praising her for toileting there? If not, I suggest you start. Lighten up, supervise more and praise like crazy for what you want. It will get easier. But more encouragement and less discouragement will also build a happier more confident pup. :)