Salukifan

Just remembering some of the great DOL scandals/revelations. Peter Pumpkin (fleeced members here until outed) Troy finally outed as really being Chuck Norris Numerous dramas involving dodgy breeders and buyers. Chuck Norris Troy dealt with those. A couple of very public meltdowns (who can forget Beau's Mum) Ah memories...

My 10th Anniversary as a member of this forum is today! There have been changes here and in my life but many things have stayed the same. Changes Many more members. Some members have gone from pet owners to showing, trialling and breeding in that time. Many have gone on to get their first purebred dogs here. Some of the more experienced breeders and trainers no longer visit here. I have a new breed in my life - Whippets, and 3 more dogs than when I joined. Iv'e gone from being a hard core BARFer to feeding a mix of premium kibble and RMBs. I'm showing dogs and no longer competing or instructing in obedience and agility. I'm now President of Dogs ACT. 10 years ago I was an ordinary member. DOL has a lot more forums to cope with the volume on specific topics. Some of the funniest and witiest DOLers have moved on. Fortunately so have the pests and the scammers. Still the Same People still argue vigorously about the best way to feed a dog. No one seems to have changed their views much. People still argue vigroursly about the best way to train a dog. No one seems to have changed their views much. :D Any thread started about a dog attack or dog aggression tends to turn into a train wreck. Bigger train wreck if police are somehow involved. People join here as new dog owners and get a lot of advice and support. Reception to advice and support tends to be mixed. Rescue efforts continue unabated - and bless those who are picking up the pieces of irresponsible breeding and buying, together with dogs from families down on their luck. I stil have the three poodles I had when I joined here. The oldest, Ted, is now 16 years and 5 months and still in quite good shape, albeit a bit nutty these days. :)

In Junior Handlers though it's the handling being judged, not the quality of the dog. I don't know NSW rules but in the ACT juniors are permitted to show dogs not entered in conformation classes at the show, provided the dog is Main registered. That includes neuters. My less competitive Whippet boy is shown in JH's by a young junior and she's starting to place with him. His uncanny ability to get on her correct side despite her efforts doesn't hurt. :) If your dog is an easy handle, he may have a better run showing a dog he knows well and can practice with, rather than 'strange' dogs. Check your local rules though.

Quick word of caution. Some vaccinated pups can still catch parvo. I'd be keeping him out of more heavily dog populated areas for a while yet.

Any reason he can't show your Basset?

I honestly think that to become proficient as a handler and have a dog that knows the ropes, you need to do a couple of weekends a month for a while.

If the verdict is arthritis, I'd be asking about cartrophen injections. In a younger dog, I'd be recommending a chiropractor visit but chances are you're looking at spondylosis and a chiropractor won't fix that in an old dog.

Feed dogs Walk dogs Groom and bath dogs Poo patrol.....

Ain't that the truth It cracks 4 figures for the out of state specialties! Tell me again why we do this? I have no idea. I just entered multiple dogs in the Syd Royal. Good bye money *points and * Enjoy the parking fee!

Ain't that the truth It cracks 4 figures for the out of state specialties! Tell me again why we do this?

I find by far the most expensive part of showing is petrol and accommodation.

It's funny, but spend enough time with dogs of the same breed, and they DON'T look the same! With variations in character, despite the fact that they have the same structure and general temperament, each is very much an individual. However sticking with the same breed means you know what you are in for generally speaking.

GE: Best money you'll EVER spend on your dog.

I read that it it was a way to see if they trust you and gave it a go once (of course not with my weight!!!) and when lying out in the sun with him chillaxing I put my head on him is all. I don't go around sitting on him or anything of the sort (except for today when he just would not stop jumping at me no matter what I did and it was the only way I got him to stop, holding the lead down just got him going for my face) I have had a look at Jen, she looks great, thank you. He can't jump at you or reach your face if your foot is on the lead. This sounds like one frustrated dog. What sort of collar are you using on him?

I have thought about this, but thought I would try this training place first (starts in 2 weeks). I am in the Canning Area of WA if anyone has suggestions. I have also heard I should only be using someone with experience with a Mally And thanks for the advice, I have also read that the alpha thing is actually untrue. I was a little more leanient with my last boy who was just gorgeous (and didn't even need a lead), but I have been so worried about Max being a Mally that I have probably been trying too hard. The reason I recommended one on one training is that group classes are very difficult to get effective problem correction in. Learning new things is lot easier in a group. And don't wait! Every day this behaviour continues is rewarding and reinforcing it. Dogs of any breed can and will pull on the lead if allowed to. You don't need someone with Mal experience to deal with this. As I said its bread and butter work for good dog trainers and probably one of the most common dog issues they see.

And yet, many don't. It's undeniable. They will show all kinds of avoidance behaviours and warning behaviours including "air bites". Furthermore, how easily a dog can be triggered to bite, how hard it will bite and the likelihood of a bite turning into a sustained attack will have a genetic component. Correct. Regardless of training and environment, if an individual dog lacks the genetic component to fight, the dog will not attack and bite people by default and will generally flee as it's first option. Even cornered many dogs will freeze and shutdown under intense fear and still won't attack and bite for their own survival. I have one of those. In any overwhelming situation, she will retreat to a place of safey and/or shut down. Made agility training a very lengthy process and taught me a LOT about patience and remaining neutral if things didn't go according to plan.

This is bread and butter stuff for most decent private dog trainers. I suggest you employ one to come and show you how to deal with the leash pulling. He's had 5 months to develop this behaviour so you need some skills to train him out of it. No amount of written advice will be as valuable as being shown how to manage it. If you give some basic details about where you are, someone will no doubt be recommended. Don't overplay the "respect" and "alpha" ideas. Dogs pull on the lead because at some point the behaviour has been rewarding for them.

I think the cautionary posts about dog parks and puppies go double for a breed which will grow into a powerful dog and one in which wher edog aggression is not uncommon. What a baby puppy will tolerate and what an adolescent dog will tolerate can be very different things. You would be unwise to assume that the level of tolerance he displays now will be static. This is not a dog you want learning that rough play is acceptable, that you want to see having to deal with rude or dominant behaviour from other dogs as a youngster or that you want to learn that it's up to the dog to sort unwanted behaviour from other dogs. The key to socialising any dog is to control the interactions it has with other dogs in its critical socialisation periods. As you have already learned, you cannot control the behaviour of other dogs in off leash areas, nor the actions of their owners. Join a dog training club and, in addition to establishing a good bond with Vinnie, you will find opportunities for appropriate socialisation with other dogs. You really want to prevent him taking offence to rude dogs when he's an adult.

Oh Moops, I'm so sorry. Run free Jack.

And yet, many don't. It's undeniable. They will show all kinds of avoidance behaviours and warning behaviours including "air bites". Furthermore, how easily a dog can be triggered to bite, how hard it will bite and the likelihood of a bite turning into a sustained attack will have a genetic component.

Take her to the vet. Incontinence can have a range of causes and each requires different treatment. Take a fresh urine sample wth you if you can. This isn't uncommon in older bitches and my older girl's issue is totally controlled with medication.

I would not ask a dog in such a situation to sit. You're increasing the dog's vulnerability to attack when its clear that what the dog wants is more space. You're also prolonging the encounter. Deny a dog the opportunity to flee and you give it one choice only - fight. Potentially you're also encouraging the dog to ignore you for its own preservation. I would position myself between the dog and the oncoming dog and get out of the situation as fast as possible. As for dogs rushing out of property? Report it. People are required to have their dogs securely contained. Perhaps a visit from the ranger might encourage the owner to take the issue a bit more seriously in future.

It's interesting living with poodles and whippets. One breed is considered amongst the most intelligent. The other less so. But for sheer ingenuity in getting what THEY want, Whippets are hard to beat. Very cunning thieves.

Georgina, given that your dog has never shown the slightest aggression on lead, I see no reason for you to think she will be. You probably won't find a place that makes dogs more hyper aroused than at a dog park. My guess is outside that environment and not confronted by unknown small dogs running at her, you will be unlikely to witness a recurrence. If you want to put it beyond doubt, muzzle her on walks. If that's what it takes to relax YOU, its worth it.

Your best bet is probably to contact the Basset Hound Club of NSW. Contact details from the Breed page here are: Basset Hound Club of NSW Inc ">Secretary - Gayle Tape >Phone - 0414 477986 Email : [email protected]