Salukifan

Until you make a decision, I would have either the parrot in another room or the pup in a crate. Dogs can be trained to leave smaller pets alone but I'd never trust a Whippet in this regard. They are hardwired to chase and seize.

Thanks for your reply. It is the same kibble and puppy milk. I started barf when we ran out of the mince we used. I mix the barf with the kibble. Should i revert back to mince? The breeder stated that she left the kibble and milk down for them. Should i remove the bowl still? I would but what breed are we talking about?

Thanks for your reply. It is the same kibble and puppy milk. I started barf when we ran out of the mince we used. I mix the barf with the kibble. Should i revert back to mince? The breeder stated that she left the kibble and milk down for them. Should i remove the bowl still? I would but what breed are we talking about?

Was this what her breeder was feeding? I would not be leaving food down. Feed her meals at the times you prefer, put it down for 10 minutes and then take it away.

Ring the breeder. You will probably be able to return the pup for a refund. Transport would be at your expense though. Unless you can figure out a way to separate the other animals from the pup, this is going to end in tears. The only way to stop the pup chasing at this stage is to have him on a lead or in a crate. If you are desperate, NSW Whippet club has a rescue service that would take him on.

Ideally I'd have taken a copy of this article, smacked myself on the head for assuming any puppy owner understands about appropriate interaction between dogs and then inserted it up the instructors left nostril to assist with comprehension. I certainly wouldn't have allowed someone who clearly has bugger all idea about dog behaviour (as quite a few dog obedience trainers don't) to correct my dog for an appropriate response to a rude puppy. How rude! You NEVER correct another person's dog as far as I'm concerned unless it's behaviour is affecting you or your dog directly and only then if absolutely necessary to stop it. What exactly does "no!" mean to a dog anyway?

The most important factor in growing a healthy pup is to ensure that the calcium/phosphorus ratio in the diet is balanced. Unless you know what you are doing, feeding a puppy is not a time to experiment. You can feed a good diet on all raw, a mix of decent kibble and raw or all kibble - don't let anyone suggest otherwise. IMO the best guidance on diet will come from those Labrador folk who have plenty of puppy raising experience. Frankly the biggest challenge with a Lab pup will be keeping the pup lean. Fat pups aren't going to have as good a chance of a sound adult skeleton as leaner ones. I'd be starting by talking to the pup's breeder.

You are limiting the rehoming prospects for this dog severely by insisting you have access. No way known would I ever adopt a dog under those conditions. The stress to the dog of regular meetings, followed by separations would not be fair IMO. How is he expected to bond to a new owner under these conditions.? If you want some understanding, perhaps more than "I'm thinking of moving into the CBD for a new business opportunity" might have been an idea. "I may have to rehome my dog for personal reasons" would have been far more enlightening. I don't rate people who discard dogs for mere business opportunities and I make no apology for expecting people here to be committed to their pets. If its more personal than that then yes, I do understand.

Thanks! The hat is photoshopped on but yes, Dodger does think he's pretty good.

It sure is!

So you'll be giving up your dog essentially for convenience? Hope you give up your membership here too.

I don't find them heart breaking. I find them beautiful. Some lovely old souls in those dogs. :)

She can do it your way and end up with a dog you will care for or she can do it her way and potentially end up with a poodle that's blind at 5 and epileptic. I've seen it happen. How can she think a blind poodle is "fine" If you're going to have to care for this dog for potentially the next 20 years, it seems to me that you should be getting what YOU want. What's really scary is that the dog from the breeder that health tests will probably cost LESS than the petshop one.

Hopefully this thread might be helpful. If you are still after a poodle, I'd be starting with the puppy register of the Poodle Club of whatever state you are in. You could also ask for recommendations in the poodle thread in the breed sub-forums. You will find it easier to buy a male pup than a female and frankly I think they make better pets. Any reputable breeder will have DNA tested their dogs for PRA. Don't buy a pup from untested parents and if you want the best chance of stable temperament, avoid the fashionable colours. I have a 16 year old and a 15 year old poodle here. Tell the impatient one that a few months is nothing to wait for a dog that will a part of her life for a very long time - they can get to 20 years old!

Link to Story Well done Magistrate Daly! A life ban on animal owning should be a standard sentence for anyone found guilty of cruelty to animals.

Reported as suggested. :) Although my suggestion was aimed at the link and any discussion benefitting a wider range of DOLers, some of whom never visit rescue. Positioning, not validity was the issue.

It would probably get much more of a read if it was posted in General Discussion. What's it got to do with rescue?

I like a bit of both. However, I've had a pup chosen for me by the breeder and I was very happy with the choice. I've also had final word on the breeder's recommended pup and been just as happy. I think the breeder will always know the litter better but it's nice when they allow you to have input. I'd not be thrilled with a buyer who wouldn't listen to breeder input.

The choices you have are to interupt the behaviour and deflect it into a more desireable one or to deter it with the use of an aversive.. or both. She sounds like a tough nut but remember she cannot bite or scratch anyone she can't reach. I think in such cases a "time out" works quite well. The lesson she has to learn is that "when I do this, I don't get the result I want". It sounds like she was playing. Some pups playing sound like they are killing each other .. or whatever they have. But you need someone to see it to know for sure. Your breeder's advice just got the "discount entirely" label from me for the alpha roll he suggested you do. That's dark ages training and it doesn't work because what's going on isn't about dominance. Without the correct training, which includes bite inhibition, she'll be worse... which you have clearly understood. Compared to yesterday, this is BIG progress! She was put in her crate, she didn't kill herself in there and she stayed in there! My guess is that everytime she goes in there now you'll see less and less tantrums. Toss in a toy, or someting nice and chewy like a chicken wing and you can have some time to yourself!! Resist the urge to tip toe around the house and take her out and stay out there when she wakes until she 'delivers' - and that's one less accident and one more positive behaviour she's learned. :) ETA: Remember to feed and reward in there. My youngest dog rushes into his crate when dinner is served and also takes his "treasures" in there to destroy play with. :)

I think this will fail dismally. Get a trainer in. What she needs is boundaries, training and attention on your terms not hers. Physically isolating her will not help. Its one thing to pop her in her crate and go about your business and another to send her to isolation as management. Somewhere in between catering to her every need and ignoring her there is an acceptable and appropriate manner of dealing with this canine whirlwhind. A decent trainer will help you find it.

Good luck. Remember she is not made of glass and that she has to learn to deal with not getting what she wants and with boredom and separation. The sooner that starts, the better for all of you. I suspect the hardest part of the training will be training the males in the house NOT to derail your good work by giving in to her demands. Dogs can be very effective trainers. Oh and I would be feeding all meals and all treats in that crate. If young children are around, she should be in that crate whenever she is eating or they are. Better safe than sorry.

Are you sure that the online stuff isn't warning against getting two littermates? Many people here would be in furious agreement with that. However two dogs separated by age? Lots of folk have two dogs - they are a social, pack animal after all.

What happens? They sit in those little perspex boxes, mixed with other pups from other litters, growing without sunlight or sufficient exercise and forced to eat, sleep and eliminate in the same small space until they are discounted enough to be purchased. Consequently they end up are robbed of essential experiences at the peak socialisation period in their lives and some of them pay a life long price for that. Toilet training such a pup can be a nightmare. Some "bargain". A friend of mine took pity on a 12 week old pup (had probably spent half her life in such circumstances) and when taken for a vet check, the vet said she had never seen a pup in such a poor state of muscle development. Sooner they are banned from sale in petshops the better.

If you bought a Labrador pup thinking it would be calm, I suggest you have a few years to wait for that to happen! The gundog babies I have known have been active, chewy babies and your job as an owner is to channel that activity in positive directions and give the chewing an outlet you can manage. You have to go through your house (frankly I suggest you crawl) and pick up or safely contain EVERYTHING a curious pup can investigate. Pups investigate with their mouths so they will chew as exploration. If she gets it, its your fault... impress that on your children. How is she getting to things like phones and remotes?? If you cannot puppy proof the house puppy proof a room. No pen is going to contain an active Labrador pup for long. If you intend that this pup spend its time outside when you are not at home, then outside is where the pup goes when you cannot supervise. You need to puppy proof the yard in the same way you proof the house or again, make a part of the yard safe with a secure fenced run. Enrol IMMEDIATELY in a decent dog training class (not just puppy preschool) - this is a breed that needs a job and if you don't give her one, she'll find one for herself - even it that is shredding things Finally, I highly recommend the training notes will find on www.dogstardaily.com With toilet training, every time that pups wakes, sniffs, eats or looks around, TAKE HER OUTSIDE AND STAY THERE. Don't play, or interact. Put a chair out there if you must but you don't come back in until she 'delivers'. She should be offlead for this. Praise like crazy for doing the right thing and reprimand yourself for any accident inside because frankly, it will be your fault. Pups dont have much bladder control. She should be in her crate inside unless someone is actively supervising her and it should stay that way until she is accident free. Put her in the crate if you are nearby, eg watching TV, SHUT THE DOOR and weather the storm. No one gives in and that door never opens until she is quiet. Sounds like its time for some tough love on a little princess. Ditto for mouthing and scratching. She needs to learn that it is not acceptable to have her mouth on people or to scratch. If you don't know how to discourage that, talk to a decent trainer but frankly you may have to be quite hard on it. You need to do that now because she needs to learn bite inhibition before she gets much bigger and you don't have forever to do it. I have had gundog babies charge at me with their mouths open and ready to grab.. you need to teach her that this is not acceptable. Its a shame you felt the need to buy a pup quickly because Labradors do come in a couple of lines and frankly some working line pups will be a real challenge for a family to raise - they thrive on stimulation. On the other hand they are a very trainable breed - you just have to make sure that they are learning what you want them to know, rather than what they can get away with. Sounds to me like there's been a bit of the latter. Good luck. Everyone has their "oh my God, what have we done" moment with new pups. But with more knowledge and effort you can raise a wonderful family member. :) I honestly think you'd benefit from some decent in home training with a good dog trainer who can show you the ropes.

Did the same thing myself here about 10 years ago. Very common misunderstanding of the breed.