Kavik

In addition to what Jess said - what about your confidence level and body language while handling the weaves at training and at a trial? One thing I noticed about myself is that I am very confident at training and don't really look at him while he weaves whereas at a trial I get nervous and tend to watch him more carefully, which mucks him up, so I am trying to be more consistent with this and trust him as much at trials as training. This has helped in the last few trials, the last one he was really quick and we even managed a rear cross into the weaves. What has also helped is rewarding more often at training (almost every time) including in the middle of a sequence (instead of only at the end of the sequence) and having the opportunity to do mock trial situations where I can reward in the ring.

Diesel's skin has flared up again. Despite me bathing him weekly as instructed by vet, he scratched a hole in his face on Wednesday and chewed a hole in his side. At vet got usual cortisone injection, antibiotics and some cream and more Malaseb. At agility training last night a lady with a GSD said that she has greatly improved her dog's skin by using Olive Leaf Powder, and claims that several people she has suggested it to have had success too. Her dog has food allergies and is on a roo meat diet. Having done an elimination diet on Z/D with Diesel I found no difference on the Z/D so from that take that he does not have a food allergy. I have not tried him on a roo diet. Haven't done dermatological testing but problem areas suggest a contact allergy. Does anybody know anything about Olive Leaf Powder and had success with it?

Sorry to hear about your puppy My GSD broke his leg when he was 6 months old (running around the yard and collided with my other dog). It wasn't through the growth plate so can't help you there but was a spiral fracture and required an external fixatur, there is a screw still in there. I agree with buddy1 that a crate or other way to confine your pup is very important to be able to keep them quiet while they heal. Luckily Diesel was already crate trained when this happened but even so he did chew up his bedding, it is a stressful time keeping them quiet. He is now 8 1/2 years old. He walks and runs fine on the leg, it is not quite as good as the other one, does wobble a little bit/not as stable but doesn't seem to bother him. Good luck and keep us updated :)

Is your dog protective of the kids (German Shepherd) - I'm sure some are but mine, nope, loves everyone, will go to anyone for a pat :laugh:

All I know is that I saw dogs that came all the time to the daycare get chronic problems very early in life, that to me could be linked to overexercise. Now not all these dogs were well bred (lots of oodles and pet shop dogs) and not all were working dogs, but certainly I saw the price they paid. Obviously my Kelpies are pets/sporting dogs and not working dogs, so not expected to work all day. But how well do those dogs age, that are run til they can't run anymore? Are they still happy and active into their teens? OBviously a working life is harder on a dog than a pet or sporting life.

When I worked in a dog daycare, one of the things that really stressed me was the overexercise of young dogs. Assuming that just because they are still running around like nutters that they don't need a rest. It was a highly charged atmosphere and the dogs were so amped up, some of the energetic dogs wouldn't relax at all during the day, and some if we tried to enforce rest on them would just bark.

This and that they need LOTS of space, or a farm or a property. Not the case.

OK for your basic obedience - a fun challenge! Will he sit/drop etc on command if you are lying down/kneeling/curled in a ball on the ground/on a chair/running/waving his favourite toy? I ask for each of these as well as stand one after the other and am sometimes surprised which things will catch my dog out! You can have fun proofing things! ETA: Some fun tricks Walk backwards crawl bow front feet on object back feet on object all 4 feet in a box nose touch hand or object

I agree with BC crazy :) Training and mental stimulation would tire him out and help him settle, lots of exercise without the mental stimulation will just make him fit :) There are heaps of things you can train, from obedience to tricks (which can be useful as well, especially if you aim to do sports later, body awareness stuff is fun to train and useful). I keep my sessions short and fun and high energy. You can use toys for rewards as well as food - so you can make him earn that frisbee or ball instead of getting it for free :) And sleeping in a more confined area at night should help him settle more easily.

So sorry for your loss

The price would depend on what sort of training establishment it is and what is offered. Private consults with trainers/behaviourists are going to be much more expensive than club training. They offer different things and what you choose would depend on what you are after. Eg the club training I have done is generally a joining fee of $20 - 40 and a small amount $2 - 5 each time you come. Club training generally has volunteer instructors with a variety of knowledge and experience (and people skills, and sometimes methods), for a private trainer I would look at their qualifications and what type of method they use etc and see if that is what you are after. What sort of training are you after? Are you having any specific problems, or after any specific skills or sports or is it general obedience you are looking to train?

I agree with the others - I would not allow free play with other dogs until you get the recall issue under control. Last year I did SG's online Recaller's course - one of the best investments I have made While Kaos's recall was not a major issue, the course had SO many great relationship building games as well as recall specific games and self control games. LOTS of fun and I still practice some of the games today because they are so much fun! Another one is putting visiting (people or dogs) on cue. I need to be more diligent about this - I think it is a great idea (mine loves to visit people).

Either thread is fine for questions :) Here is the other one: http://www.dolforums.com.au/topic/72425-kelpies/ Has 251 pages.

So sorry to hear this RIP Bailey

On a side note on microchipping - Do breeders of working (stock) dogs have to have their puppies microchipped before sale? I think they used to have an exemption? Is that still the case or has it changed? I know Kaos was not microchipped when I got him.

Gorgeous puppies!

I've always started mine on what I want straight away, never had a problem :)

Good luck to him! I'm sure you will get a nice foster dog :)

Does anyone have one of their pens?

That's what I assumed but there's usually not a lot of detail about the mechanics (I've seen lots of stuff about other working dogs and explosive detection dogs outside of a war zone but not so much about the ones in a warzone). I'm not trying to be provocative - I just want to find out exactly what is involved. Also, as the articles point out, while the intention is of course not to blow up the dog, the dog's life also serves as another layer of protection for the humans. I found a good video clip on Behind the News of all places :) The dogs look very well looked after. Hi KTB, They would probably teach them a passive response to finding the explosives such as a sit or drop, would be the same as other explosive detection dogs. The ball would be their reward :) The drive level and stable temperament is more important than "scenting ability" as pretty much all dogs can smell well enough to do the work, it is the motivation to do the work for long periods of time through distractions that is more difficult to find.

So sorry for your loss RIP Riley

That is a great result for a first trial! If yours next week is Agility Dog Club of NSW, I will see you there!

I understand mixeduppup's frustration. Zoe is dog aggressive, and I cross the street too where possible if someone is approaching with a dog especially if the dog does not look under very good control and is straining to greet my dog. If they then cross the street as well (happened to me recently), I assume they are purposely trying to have their dog meet mine, and I tell them my dog is not friendly and I don't want to stop to visit them. It can be a stressful situation, especially if the dogs then become reactive and you are trying to deal with that as well as the owner. The most recent time it happened to me the other owner didn't speak very good English so it was tricky and I had to keep it really simple - "No - not friendly!" - and luckily we were at a quiet intersection so I could cross the street again.

With eyes, I would probably go to the vet. Hopefully it is nothing serious, but if it is, you have the best prognosis with eyes if seen to straight away.

Yes I would definitely throw out the old bones first! Not only potentially harbour nasties but bones are something that can cause disputes even amongst normally well behaved dogs as they are a high value food item