Nekhbet

They are very wrong. It's not possible unless there is something like Neo in there to get that, it's nothing but a mongrel pup.

Dogs will fight because they see themselves as the possessors of the resources. It's not their food, it's your food and you are allowing them to eat it. I can give bones to all of mine and they all know to go their separate ways and finish it, no snatching (the pug occasionally gets ninja'd by the old girl but it's not in malice) It's all about counter conditioning. You can tether two dogs separate from each other or put up a barrier they can see through and not get through. Each dog gets a bowl when it's calm and it can eat. When the dogs are finished the bowls are picked up and put away. They will gulp the first few times but when the realise there is no way the other dog can access the food they will slow down. You gradually move the dogs closer and closer to each other (don't shove them right under each others noses) and if a dog refuses to eat its own food and tries to stare down the other it's own food is removed and no more for the day. You can either be harsh about it or live with the risk you slip up one day and you have a dog fight over something silly because your dogs have never learned they have no right to bully or snatch. Up to you. But 4 Malinois can eat with two little dogs present and there's never a snarl let alone a full blown fight.

Rejection is one thing, a bitch that kills pups is another. Maybe I've just learned from people who put stricter parameters on what they find acceptable in a breeding bitch.

I hope they're not even considering breeding that bitch ever again with the way she behaved. I'd watch the daughters as well.

I have a lady asking me to help her, she's trying to get her dog back from a rescue organisation. Dog was never signed over officially, no paperwork was done by the owner and there are demands on the owner from the rescue that sound extremely shoddy. If someone could PM me to give me a hand that would be great, need advice ASAP

Crates, baby gates and rotate inside and out. I've had entire dogs together for years and never had an accident. I just lock the girls outside for run around time a few times a day then rotate so they're not cooped up too much. It's not as big a stress as it seems to be honest.

The baskerville is rubbish, designed by people who know nothing about dogs. If you want a decent wire frame get one from www.fordogtrainers.com. It's stainless steel and leather, they will last you a lifetime. Incredibly strong yet light and safe for the dog, I've had one for about 6 years now and it still looks like new.

Frankly if you are not used to this level of behavior or the breed, move on. A dog on behavior altering medication is NOT a candidate for rehoming in my opinion. Apart from the weaning off of the medication, this dog will need some high level behavioral therapy which is seems it's not getting currently as it seems rather open ended what the long term result of this dog actually will be. If you want a pet, find a dog that suits your lifestyle. Don't let your heart rule your head especially if you're not experienced as both parties really don't always come out on top. I have helped dogs on medication come off over the years but it takes a lot out of the owners in the process, I mean for some literally coming to tears and avoiding coming home. If you're really keen on the dog get yourself a good behaviorist now, someone like Pet Resorts Australia or a behaviorist management recommends.

If you have had success use what you know. Things have not really changed there are just more drums being banged these days. Who said it was for the better.

Fidos flea free rinse diluted in a spray bottle. Safe for kittens, puppies, even birds and ferrets.

Even minis can be feisty little dogs. I've seen one bail up two dog trainer students in a corner :laugh: he was a stubborn, cantankerous thing.

got any other dogs? Lock her in a crate with nothing in there and let the others ravage their meals in front of her. Then she gets a tiny morsal of something from you in the crate, if nothing after 5 minutes remove it. DO this a couple of times a day and make a point of feeding her food to the other dogs in front of her. Worked for the picky fussy frenchie and other dogs that have been a little too particular. Eat it or lose it. Simple spite usually gets them eating :laugh:

Stay away from the 'working' dogs then. A cocker, yes from the right breeder and with some training will be a great dog. Brittany, no, way too active for what you want from the dog. Cavalier is a good choice also. The best thing to do is go visit a breeder, their dogs, see the personalities and if you can live with it for over a decade :)

He's posturing - he's now the prime smacking example of a fully fledged healthy breeding male and he's proving the point with the two 'sub canine' males you have. He thinks he's ruling the roost and as for reactivity on lead, well it's piss and vinegar due to frustration. He's got little respect for you too from the sounds of it. Putting him in a crate? You just boosted his reactivity over resources and because the other dog could not be bullied out of Etienne's way it erupted. He needs to be taken down 20 pegs and your leadership value looked at. I would suggest you contact Mark Singer if you're in SA for his advice and a consult.

rare to none here in Australia, only specimens are those that may have been imported by the owners. With pedigree papers.

Dont put focus on command or it becomes provisional. Build your focus into your commands and everything you do. So your heeling, short fast bursts that engage the dog. Remember too heeling is NOT a walking command it is a positioning command, start stock still and just move your right leg around keeping the dogs focus - Mark - reward with food ONLY if she's giving focus. Put tighter parameters on the behavior. Keep the heeling dynamic, say 3 steps, fast sit WOW YES! Then heel backwards. Then sideways. Excitement from you will help a lot and encouraging speed will keep her interested. How do you actually train?

That's definitely not teenage blues. Resource guarding to that degree, I would also be calling your breeder. I agree with cavNrott the dog has to understand that there is no perceived loss of the object and hence stop the guarding. An out command and swap game to start is the way to begin high stress dogs without being bitten. If you behaviorists insists on zapping or severely punishing your dog instead of teaching it how to deal with the stress it has just watch out. The reactivity too needs to be addressed but dont go getting your hands in there at all.

Why don't you pop up to Gold Coast Schutzhund club for some advice and training.

You handed puppy over without full payment ... it's a civil matter so really, good luck with the attitude they're displaying. Conversely you can try getting the dog back as they have not fully paid in the time agreed on, but again the police wont really help. A few big burley blokes on their doorstep might help the process along :)

we are looking at starting Lure Coursing down here and also be part of the award system that the QLD club is currently running. We have to build the drive motor first OH's on the case

If you had used my 'methods' your dog would walk fine on a leash. Considering really I tailor the 'method' to suit the individual dog you can't really say I am stuck on a one track to really have a method. Nek didn't say that. She said "not always foolproof IF the dog find the surrounding environment of higher value than the handler and the "treats" offered." Ari is correct, my post was not read properly at all before comments were made. As for correction chains not working in high distraction environments, mmm not so. I use correction chains but I also teach my clients to use marker words as clickers are just another thing to juggle or leave behind. We work in a camera approach, YES when you see what you want from the dog. I make them imagine they're taking a photo of what they want which in turn helps the dog. I use a combination of correction and marking/reward and engagement. I dont let people just yank their dogs around. Corrections I find in the dogs that need them help them actually value the reward so much more and concentrate better. I put the dogs in distracting environments so they learn in them, because they will exist in them. I don't produce unhappy dogs. You can't force a big tongue lolling, wide eyed focus face and wagging tail so as far as I'm concerned I'm letting the dogs dictate to me if I'm right or wrong. And so far I dont see any misery. But at the same time I'm not accepting bad behavior or backing off at the first sign of stress. I produce resilient dogs that trained under high distraction, learn a high tolerance and how to manage their own anxiety without having to me micro managed by their owners.

I agree with Haredown Whippets. He's an entire male, he's now fully mature and he's showing it. Diet has little really to do with his excitability unless you're feeding colours and preservatives then I would look into it.

Every time I see your title all I can think of is ... Please don't put out advertising material saying fun with furries :laugh: you might get the wrong demographic

And thats why we have people stand against fencing with their backs to the fence when dogs are playing.

Read the label and see what's actually in it. A dog needs good protein, a healthy balance in it's diet. Hills labels read Chicken Meal, Whole Grain Wheat, Oat Groats, Whole Grain Sorghum, Corn Gluten Meal, Whole Grain Corn, Pork Fat, Chicken Liver Flavor, Flaxseed, Dried Beet Pulp, Fish Oil, Lactic Acid, Pork Liver Flavor, Iodized Salt, Potassium Chloride, Dicalcium Phosphate, Choline Chloride, vitamins (Vitamin E Supplement, L-ascorbyl-2-polyphosphate (source of vitamin C), Niacin Supplement, Thiamine Mononitrate, Vitamin A Supplement, Calcium Pantothenate, Biotin, Vitamin B12 Supplement, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Riboflavin Supplement, Folic Acid, Vitamin D3 Supplement), Taurine, minerals (Ferrous Sulfate, Zinc Oxide, Copper Sulfate, Manganous Oxide, Calcium Iodate, Sodium Selenite), Oat Fiber, Mixed Tocopherols for freshness, L-Carnitine, Phosphoric Acid, Beta-Carotene, Natural Flavors, Dried Apples, Dried Broccoli, Dried Carrots, Dried Cranberries, Dried Peas. Wheat, oats, corn, sorghum make up the majority of the product. They also add to the total protein % of the food and bulk it out. That's a lot of money to spend on something with an ingredients list that reads like this.