Erny

Rhodesian Ridgeback :D Adirondack Pointing Dog (Canadian Pointer) ...... I'd reeeally love one of these :p. Lagotto Labrador Standard Poodle German Shorthaired Pointer or a German Wirehaired Pointer Wire hair viszla (although they aren't called that and they aren't really viszlas, if I remember correctly) - this would be a maybe, I'd need to look further into them and meet them before confirming. Would also like to know the Greater Swiss Mountain Dog. Can't think of any others, although I'm sure there are other breeds around that I would go "oooooh, yes, one of them too, please" ;).

My previous girl, Kal (bhcs) used to burn my lawn badly as well, but she did tend to stick to one area (around the corner where you couldn't see). Back then I wondered at how come she burnt off the lawn so much more than other of the dogs I knew, and reading posts etc. was informed that boy dogs aren't quite so bad. Well, now I have a boy dog .......... :D LOL. He tends to pee in 'lines'. IE Sniffs around for his last 'spot' and then pees above that and above that above that. I try to get out and water his 'spots' but half the time I don't see them and the other half of the time it's either first thing in the morning when I myself am trying to get organised to leave for appointments, or at night when I'm retiring for bed. Sometimes I manage to 'wash' the lawn however. I have worked so hard to bring the lawn back after the drought - I had it from about 20% coverage (t'was a dust bowl) and got it to about 97%. But my boy is beating me at my game, at the moment :p. And he's taken to peeing on the better part of the lawn that I seeded in. Oh well. Wouldn't swap my dog for lawn, no way, never ;).

I'm not a fan of using weed killer where dogs can get to it either, regardless of what the packaging might say to try to assure me it is harmless to pets. But, if I were to use weed killer, I would like to keep the dog off it for about one week (I think the packaging on things such as zero and round-up tell you it's fine after 24 hours). And then I like to gather and dispose of the rather dead, dieing, sick weeds and chuck them in the green waste bin to be rid of them, even if you are meant to leave them be so the poison can do the job. That, or leave it longer before I let the dog back on. Maybe I'm over cautious . OR ..... you could train your dog to pee on it . And if your dog's pee is not strong enough to kill it, I'll bring my dog over ..... his'll do it (refer picture evidence), LOL.

What you're doing sounds good to me - in fact you're probably doing more than many are able to.

Maybe because you haven't looked for it? Schutzhund with JRT 1

Ok - pardon my dumbness. I never equate "benign" with the word "cancer". I have always thought that if a lump/growth was "benign" it meant abnormal tissue/cells, but not cancerous. I understand about cancerous growths being "encapsulated", but never thought of those as "benign". So I'm wondering how you can have "benign cancer" .

This dog may need to be seen to be able to understand the true essence of her anxiety, but perhaps it is a matter of a combination of being weak on nerve and not having been socialised much in/around men. Regardless, I'd start with just a couple of basics - just to begin with and until things lighten up just a little. Firstly, I'd have Dad ignore her. Don't even have Dad try to make her like him. Let her do this in her own time. Even when she starts that hesitant approach that dogs can do when fear begins to reduce enough to allow them to be a bit curious, he should ignore her. People sometimes make the mistake of reaching out to the dog at that point, but that only reaffirms their thoughts and reinstates fear behaviour. Secondly, no molly-coddling. Leadership all the way. NILIF; TOT; Obedience training; House rules/boundaries. Not harshness, just boundaries and consistency. Thirdly, when the dog is looking, occasionally have your friend shake her Dad's hand, be next to him - let the dog learn by observation there's nothing to be concerned about. Don't be looking at the dog when they are doing this - pretend the dog is not there. Fourthly, when dog and Dad are around, always make sure the dog has an escape route. This doesn't have to be way out to the yard, but just enough distance where the dog doesn't feel trapped and without the choice of flight. Fifthly, ignore her fear behaviour. If Dad is the one who needs to feed her, just have him put the food bowl on the ground and leave her to eat in peace. (ie don't work TOT). But otherwise ask Dad to just go about his business as though she wasn't there. And tell Dad not to be hurt about this dog not taking to him straight away. It's not him. It's just that the dog has this 'thing' for some unknown reason (perhaps the one I hypothesised above) and she needs time to work it out. Give it one to two weeks with this and let the dog settle in and see what happens. There are other things that can be done beyond that if necessary but I'm a bit loath in suggesting them without seeing/knowing the dog and if things haven't improved, engaging a professional to help out might be the way to go.

I have to beg to differ there. When I decided to get my previous girl "Kal" (bhcs), I was at the time well ensconced in a different business and the hours I worked were to the ridiculous. I wanted/needed a dog who would be happy to sit if I was sitting, but ready to come out for walks/runs with me when I was. I didn't believe I'd have the time for the attention a puppy would require for all the vigilance of house-training etc. and that would not have been fair on a pup. But I was more than ready for a dog to provide me with the companionship I was after and also something that would make me take a break from my work (home office). I adopted Kal when she was 7yo and I have to say that I don't think anyone would or could have been any more dedicated and committed to a dog than I was to her and vice versa. I appreciate the uncertainty you might have in your mind when people might say "not a puppy", PF, but I think commitment and dedication occurs more often than you might think in those cases.

I wouldn't worry about that too much, at least not enough to take it too literally. Bounce your times around to suit yourself. Otherwise you'll have a dog who gets upset (and exhibits behaviours to communicate that) at not having its expectations met. And that will become a pain in the at some stage or other in your life with her. My boy gets fed twice a day. His morning meal is anywhere between 6am - 11am. His evening meal can be anywhere between 5pm - 10pm. I do have a 'general' time that I feed that fits somewhere in the middle of the time examples I've given, but nothing is 'fixed'. It depends on when I have to leave and when I can get back (and whether I've prepared it ready or not, etc.) Physical (appropriate to her age) and MENTAL (as much as you can provide her) . Teach her tricks - as many as you can think of. Take her to a street cafe where she can see the sights and sounds, but needs to sit/lay down/be calm. Obedience training. Teach her to learn. It is absolutely awesome teaching dogs new things once they've learnt to learn and you can often tell the dogs who have apart from those who haven't, when you work with them. I find my boy catches on to things so quickly I no sooner have had a moment than he's cottoned on to what I've decided to teach him, then I need to work on another to keep it interesting and ever more challenging. The least of what she needs, although she'll enjoy it. Mostly, she needs someone she can perceive as her leader, not someone who she feels some innate urge to have to protect, look after and worry about.

This is what I do with a pair of kitchen scissors Yep - that's what I do, too. (Kitchen scissors). Was quite easy. I used my "EverSharp" knife (might as well put it to the test and see if it is as promised on TV ) and used it to saw through the join. Wasn't difficult either - the bone is quite soft.

It's not a 'given' that we have to "make that choice" valleyCBR. Sometimes, if we're really lucky, our dogs cope with the aches/pains that age does bring with it, so that their contentment in life outweighs those rickety times, and their bodies get the opportunity to tell them when it is time to go. That's, if we're lucky.

I developed allergy to dogs - and given my line of work, that made things somewhat impossible. My allergy reactions were runny nose, runny eyes - BIG time, to the point that the tears in my eyes stopped me seeing properly (not good when you're working on problematic behaviours) and that I would find myself needing to blot my nose (because I couldn't sniff any more) at least once every half minute or so. The end of my nose was a continuous red and sore - not a good look and certainly uncomfortable. I ventured to an allergy specialist doctor (conventional) who did skin tests and told me my allergy to dogs wasn't bad enough (???) to warrant desensitisation injections. He prescribed a cortisone based nasal spray. That didn't make any difference and I quit it when I began to have some rather serious and frequent nose bleeds. I rang the Doctor but basically he said there wasn't anything he could do. I ended up visiting the Advanced Allergy Clinic (in Melbourne Victoria ..... but they have branches in I think every major capital City in each State). Their methods are non-invasive and are based on 'tricking' the mind to accept the allergen that you have been reacting to so that your body will stop reacting to it. I needed two visits (or was it 3?) and I must say that it worked! I was reacting to a few other things as well (mould; the essence of cold wind/air; and a couple of others that I can't remember) and they treated me for those as well. Cold wind/air still 'gets' me and I do think I need to re-visit them, but I don't seem to suffer around dogs as I did. Could be worth giving them a shot? Thing is, how will you work this? I presume you'd test it out first before you took the plunge by taking on a dog as your own?

The boy : Whispering Jack

Don't use something that is making her sick. Some dogs do have reactions to spot-ons. Don't know that it is singularly Advocate. I don't use spot-ons - I have no need to for where I live. There'll be others who venture here with their experiences and their knowledge as a result and who will put in further and better explanation than I.

Ok - so may I just clarify, for the purpose of this thread (and not for the purpose of novice handlers of certain sighthound breeds) that those who have suggested against 100% (in the terms that we're speaking of) recall possibility, have only said that in case novice people who own certain sighthound breeds are reading? I'd have to go right back through the whole thread to read exactly who said exactly what, so I'm generalising because I do know that there have been posts that suggest it is not (or very unlikely) possible and that's the part I disagree with.

When i was a new saluki owner more than one person told me to listen to as much as I can, observe as much as I can and then try for myself and make up my own mind. I guess people still say that, I know I do. I definitely agree with you here. Although perhaps I misunderstood, because I thought you were saying that for a public forum type situation, it is better to say to some people (especially new owners of the sighthound group, in the case of recalls) that 100% (using our loose definition that we seem to have established here) is not attainable and that dogs such as saluki's etc should be on-lead if not in a fenced area. That's the part I was differing on - because if it is not written (eg) that 100% recall is attainable but you might need to work harder (for the breed you have) and work and think outside the square, how otherwise would people read to be able to make up their minds? As I mentioned, perhaps I misinterpreted the meaning/essence of your previous post.

I do the same, Adnil444. These social skills are very important, IMO. In fact, dogs learning to be able to ignore other dogs is something that is also important, but not that many people give credence to. Not every place in life is a park.

For what it is worth, Jesomil, I didn't identify any lack of humility or "pi$$ing" contest, which is why I had to ask if the comment might have been directed at me. I think it is a case of the written word gone pear-shaped and hopefully no-one remains insulted by anyone here for too long, because I think it's been a thread of good balanced conversation.

You know, I've heard of people using e-collars on shy dogs precisely because they were soft dogs. There was an interesting discussion about it. It was suggested that taking the handler component out of training relieved a whole lot of accidental social pressure. Specifically for working breeds, not just any soft dog. There may be something in that, Corvus, although I can't really say that the "handler component" was removed, as I was still very much there, initially guiding them to show them what they needed to do and of course to reward them for it. Remember that the super sensitive dog shut down on me before the e-collar, even though I was otherwise doing the same/similar as I did when I intro'd the e-collar to her. In the initial days, the super sensitive dog couldn't meet my eyes without having a melt down. Once training began to 'click' though, everything changed and I ended up with lovely pricked ears and focus and that eagerness in the body language that suggests there's some enthusiastic anticipation for "what's next?". ETA: There's a couple of pictures of these dogs on my website under the "Boarding & Training" Tab. They were about 3/4 the way through their training stay at the time of the photos, I think. It was a bit difficult getting the photos of them because I was taking them myself and the super-sensitive girl (Bonnie) had a bit of trouble with the 'big eye of the camera' looking at her. At one point just prior to the photo of her, she was rolling over on her back in full submission. So with the camera in front of her, you won't really get the best idea of how confident she had become through her training.

Gremlins

The problem is not the methods tho'. People working computer helpdesks have the expression PICNIC - Problem in Chair Not In Computer. I don't know if there is a similar expression for dog training but often people on breed lists saying "DON'T!" aren't saying that because they believe it's impossible. They're saying it because they believe tha in most cases it is highly unlikely that your average person can stick with what is required. Especially if that person is a newbie asking a question. Experienced people won't ask because they already know the answer for them. Yeah - I get your point, SSM. Although it comes down to it that 100% (for the purposes of our reference to it) recall IS possible, although it means people need to work a bit beyond and outside the square they are used to. ETA: Thinking on this a bit further, if people don't mention that it's possible just because the person/s is a novice handler, how can that person know to even want to try, even under supervision of a trainer who can help them achieve what they're after?

I too think it would be. Remember the "pupupupupupup" ? That always works to attract a puppy to you - it's something they know from when the breeder began calling them for their dinner, when they were at the age of eating solids. I think the conditioned response deteriorates over time if it stops being used, but many many dogs I've worked with still give me that indication that they know that sound, even if it is a long distant memory for them. From the "in the nest" and through early day training and then beyond, if you put your dog in a position where they don't get to fail a recall, then it lands an extraordinarily good foundation as a conditioned response. But it does rely on that consistency over time for it to stick. ETA : I don't know nor had ever heard of stuff/words such as PICNIC etc. before (other than to suggest a warm soft sunny day on a blanket under the filtering shade of a tree, and food, and wine ). I'm thinking you lot are somewhat younger (like half) than I .

Thanks. I'll see if I can find it. I recorded it on my camcord and then copied it into my HDD to my TV and from there copied it to disk. Not sure if it works on the computer. I'll try it, when I lay my hands on it.

Yep - I know that. Must admit, I hate spelling errors myself and if they occur it is usually because I haven't read back what I've typed. I know I did another one in this thread (I think) - I wrote "their" instead of "they're" or vice versa. By the time I went back I think I'd already been quoted, so I didn't bother with changing it. But it annoys me. I'm sure there's a trillion other boo boo's I've made without realising too.

- Must say I haven't had the opportunity to train and proof my boy to that down at any parks yet either. I don't often use food either, for the same reason. If my boy is 'blowing' because of his running, he'll likely choke on it anyway. Half the time he's too revved to be bothered with food. Tug reward is a favourite, as is throwing his Orbee ball. It did cross my mind . I've not had any failures in training the recall (even with dogs who have learnt to ignore/fail in the past) using the e-collar. I've worked with the e-collar on the most softest and sensitive of dogs. I had 2 BC's in for B&T at one point. They were unusual in their characters and it was fairly obvious that their alliance was to each other, with little to no experience in working for people. One in particular shut down on me when all I was doing was food reward training (all positive) and that was before e-collar training. They were with me for 20 days. At one stage I actually did wonder whether I was going to be able to bring about a break-through. But once they learnt about the stim cue and what I expected, all of a sudden they seemed to bloom. Not at the same time - one seemed to 'click on' faster than the other. But by the end of the 20 days I had recalls from 50 metres; stays etc. The owner was a bit gob-smacked because when I went through the demonstration component of the handover, she was really surprised her dogs didn't try to take off after the traffic going past out the front (fenced area, in case you wonder). Point being, these dogs were particularly sensitive, one more than the other. The super sensitive one, once she shut down, no more training/learning could occur. And yet the e-collar, because it can be worked to suit only to the sensitivity of the dog, can be a fine tool, even for them. The stim level was soooooo low (I was working them on a 1 or 2 on a 127 stim level collar ..... that's the equivalent to 0.1 on a 10 level collar - actually, it would be even less than that). I don't feel the collar myself until about level 16. My boy's normal working level is about 10 - 12. THAT I can't help . ETA: But it's a shame, because there is possibly a few dogs around who might not ever or very rarely enjoy the freedom that can only come without a physical leash attached.