Erny

How come? If you have a good quality static anti-bark that you can adjust to the precise level that it is effective at (no less, no more), the aversive the dog receives comes and go in an instant with precise timing to discourage the bark. With collars such as the citronella - which is an oil based scent, the smell of the citronella (which is widely known to be an aversive to dogs) remains around and on the dog beyond the bark. Not to mention that it is also known that some dogs have had bad reactions to citronella (which is a toxic) and that those reactions have been so bad that death has been known to occur. I've used 'spray' anti-barks before but will considerably reduced success by comparison to static-antibarks.

Ahaha !!! But where there is a will, there is a way!!! I'm on my old computer and I thought that the computer elves had stolen my email and internet connections as they'd just seemed to have disappeared on me. But somehow (don't ask me what buttons I pushed beyond the "on" button), I have managed to locate and activate this stuff again. So ..... I'm back and no-one gets to have a holiday away from me . Thanks for posting the message though Oonga. And hope you're well and things are good. Haven't seen you in an age, but will see you soon at your OH's (Rivid Studio) Photo/Art Exhibition?

Bunnings sell them too. But I actually like Dwynwen's set up. I have a 'designer' tap in my bathroom and find I have to hold the shower hose thingy on with one had whilst I'm trying to rinse my dog off with the other. Bad enough even when the dog is compliantly standing still, and that doesn't seem to happen. I guess you have to have a bit of know how to fit that diverter fitting to the shower fitting though.

I'm so sorry Oonga . I'll get around to the other threads as well. Really, really sorry . I've had a hellish afternoon of things going wrong. Computer. Pet Insurance. ...... things come in threes, they say. I hope the third one is something not disasterous. In that, I guess, I've been lucky.

Oonga !!! Thanks for posting this for me. In the interim, I've gone to my old computer and where certain facilities (such as email etc) seemed to have been long lost, I must have pushed the right buttons and I've managed to find Outlook and a few other things that had otherwise seemed to have disappeared. So it seems that things are working as far as me being contactable is concerned. But as I don't quite trust this old computer that I'm working on now (which is why I invested in a new one), if anyone does send a message to which I don't respond, it would be worthwhile trying me by telephone just in case this computer lets me down as well. Sorry to have put you to any trouble, Oonga but very much appreciate you helping me out :)

You say she is an "indoor dog". Is she house-trained at all? If she has access to the outdoors, does she prefer to 'go' out there rather than inside? How long is she left inside before you come home from work? Do you provide her with an alternative toilet spot? I'm thinking that she is toileting on fabric (I presume that might mean carpet as well, if she had the choice) BECAUSE she has no choice other than toileting on the tiles, which by the sounds, she doesn't want to do.

Interesting info in your post, Akitaowner - thank you. And yet again another good use for Active Manuka Honey .

Does she enjoy a game of tug or chase ball? Don't know how crowded (or not) your motor home is and would imagine you wouldn't be able to go full bore, but perhaps closing the door over and going into a game such as those would help. Even better to begin with would be for you to be in the midst of a game and have someone quietly close the door over whilst you're in the middle of the game, as if she gets so stressed when the door is closed it might put her off starting up a game after the door is closed, in the early stages.

Refer also to the thread "Male Desexing Implant" for further information on Suprelorin.

Are you talking human babies, or pups? I'm not an expert, but I think part of the problem with reflux in humans is that the acid build up can irritate the esophagus. But I would think this would not be as big a problem with dogs given their system allows for regurgitation so I presume their esophagus is more able to cope with it without harm ??? Somebody else will probably know better than I. Perhaps Staranais or Rappie? I don't mind when my boy burps (even if it is sometimes a 'sick burp') as to me it means he is expelling air from his stomach. Being a deep chested dog I'm always conscious of propensity to bloat.

Has Skye been/stayed in the motor home before this? I'm wondering if the behaviour (panting/whining - both signs of stress) relates to being so enclosed. (You say it starts when you close the door of the motor home.) Have you tried being the one in the house, with your friend in the motor home, and your friend closing the door of the motor home? I'm not getting any feeling of SA being the issue here - to your friend, her dog or yourself.

Does it say why "boiling water" ? Would boiling water deplete some of the goodness? Is it cooled down sufficiently in 5 mins? Had never heard of Phuds. Where's it made and is it from local ingredients? Do you have to cook the dog's meal? Sorry for the 20 questions - it began as one, but then the other questions popped up in my mind as I typed.

Sorry Chewy. Really sorry. We all go through this at some stage or another and it is always difficult and heart wrenching. But you've gone through so much yourself in recent times, I could only imagine the strength it would be sapping from you. So I wish for you strength and continued courage. And know that this is as it is supposed to be.

Then use the "guide, show, place" by using the lead and collar to gently ease her down and "lure with no food" combo. Hold the lead so she might be partly down into the drop and until she realises that until she completes the drop, she is not only not going anywhere, but it will take longer to get the food reward. This is easier to show you than to explain via the internet.

Very much agree with the "depends on the dog" as the dog's shape/size affects how each style fits. Temperament (read : behaviour issues) also lends itself to consideration when choosing the right head collar. Just felt I needed to correct/clarify something that Leopuppy said though. The Head Collar IS a correctional tool. But I agree that it should be used differently to a neck collar. Kavik - there was another thread done on this very subject, not too long ago. I'd find it for you but I need to meet an appointment shortly. Not sure if it contains the answers you are seeking though, but perhaps worth looking at.

Do some research and you'll find this is not true. The Delta course is fully accredited, and was long before NDTF started offering courses. Isn't there a question though about Delta not being accredited as a "dog training" course? I think their accreditation is as a "companion animal" course, or something like that. Haven understands the differences between the two more than I, including I think, the differences in the modules they offer.

Don't know if it has been said as I haven't read all posts. Lure with hand/food as per usual. Release/praise and food treat from food treat pouch with the other hand. Repeat but only once or twice. Then lure without food in the lure hand. Release/praise and food treat from food treat pouch with the other hand. (I actually like to treat the dog while it is still in the drop but this can be kind of tricky if you're not used to handling in this way, as it means you getting the treat from the pouch can induce the dog to breaking the drop position before you've given your release word - assuming you are using one.) Get this going well and begin to gradually reduce the hand lure movement until she will drop without having to follow your hand. By this stage she should be getting the idea that the lure hand is not where the treat comes from anyway and that the treat comes to her when she has dropped. When this is going well, begin moving her from a continuous schedule of reinforcement to an intermittent schedule of reinforcement, gradually moving the intermittent schedule further and further apart between treats as your training for the drop improves. I sometimes use the lead and collar as a light "guide show and place" method when I am (a) no longer using food in my lure hand and/or (b) when I am reducing my lure-hand movement to help the dog understand what I want even though I've changed the goal posts slightly.

Oh - and meant to add : It might be as simple as claiming your space. If they're sitting on you or any part of you, nudge them off - preferably without using your hands and preferably without making eye contact or giving anything they might perceive as your attention when they do.

"Roaring" IMO is more like a distraction - something to stop them in their tracks, but not necessarily something that communicates your displeasure. I'm more inclined to try to mimic the sounds that one higher ranking dog would give to a subordinate. Those sounds are not necessarily loud, but they are meaningful. Along with the sound, comes the glaring look/stare. When my current boy was a pup he really didn't give a rats about the growly "aagh" sound. In fact, he thought that was fun and would quickly and easily challenge me back (yep - he was a feisty pup). So I did the next 'up the scale' thing that another dog might do, and that was to 'snarl' and become super serious about it. He responded to that. Fortunately, I don't have to do the full lip curl and snarl sound because it really wasn't a good look and anyone watching who didn't understand what I was doing would have thought I'd gone loopy. With a bit of time and my boy learning the ropes, I was able to reduce the 'snarl' to a mini-snort and that was enough for him to understand my displeasure. And now all I have to do is give him 'the look' and he tends to back off on whatever he might be doing at the time. And if he's not looking at me for me to give him the look, an "Oi" usually does the trick.

Wish you could finish off all the up-dates I still need to do to it, while you are there! :D Will look forward to speaking with you .

IMO "one-on-one" - even simply one lesson (although depending on your handling skills, two or three might be better) is the better option as whoever is advising you can check to see if the method is working and whether you are using the right tool for the dog; whether you are using it properly and whether your technique is effective (and if not, teach you a different technique that is). You've mentioned in your post the training tools you have tried, but you haven't mentioned the technique you have worked them with. :D .... Every dog is different, as you've obviously found out. So I don't think her "heel button is broken" (:D love the way you put that) but that you just haven't found a way of pushing it properly . And savour the fact that this dog is obviously setting you a challenge - that's a great way to learn heaps .

I do that :D. But also to 'check in' in case there is a better 'way' (technique) or understanding that I might learn. I think you learn more 'arguing' your belief (provided you can argue it but remain open-minded enough to acknowledge and even concede some points, even if they don't agree with your own) rather than merely talking to or with the 'converted'. I've been accused and thought of as argumentative for this reason, but it is really my way of checking on my own beliefs, to see if they are solid. But I've also been accused of being argumentative when I've questioned things I don't understand fully and also as my way of checking that I do understand fully. And of course, any 'argument' doesn't have to be with another person. You can argue with yourself by tossing what you've heard around in your head as well.

Sorry. My fault for not making myself more clear. When I make reference to "methodology" I tend to be referring to "Positive Reinforcement", "Positive Punishment", "Negative Reinforcement" and "Negative Punishment". There are training "techniques" within each of those methodologies, some of which I'd use and others that I wouldn't. So by me embracing all methodologies doesn't mean I'd use all techniques. I agree with that and every circumstance, every individual dog, needs to be taken into account at the time. Yes - I see the point here as well. No matter how much one might worry about who will apply what and how though, shouldn't mean that a whole "methodology" should be out-lawed when in itself it may prove for some dogs to be the one thing that keeps them safe (as well as other people safe) from harm.

and now i get it, it's a no-win situation and here am i wanting a win-win!! . No matter Jaxx'sBuddy. Main thing is (IMO) that your mind is open . And also, by having a philosophy you're going to be seen as at least partly right by everybody :D.

No worries, Jaxx's Buddy. And also think on the flip side - IE That others will disagree with your philosophy as well, because there are methodologies within that philosophy THEY don't agree with, so therefore they will think you are wrong.