Erny

So would I - on the basis of having to live in such a chemical saturated environment .... not to mention the fleas. Don't get me wrong - I will use a spray here or there where required, and don't feel like the house is properly clean unless I use commercial cleaners , but this house must be absorbing and storing a lot of chemical and I wonder what fumes you continue to breath in, and what residue you would be frequently in contact with .... and what it would/could do long term? But - if you are confident that the substances being used are of no ill affect (short or long term), I trust the landlord is wearing the cost of all this treatment, given that it seems the house was flea infested prior to your occupation of the home?

Aaaahhhhh. Now that sounds like a doggy with a much more comfortable botty. Glad things are somewhat better for him, Kymbo.

Once I get my puppy, I'll let you know, LL. ;) ;)

Can't answer for "Obedience Trials". But I do have a friend who trials her cross-bred dog in agility. I believe she has to enter him as an "associate". Someone who is actively involved in Obedience Trialing and Agility Trialing would be a better person to shed more light on this subject for you, though. I'm sure someone will step in here soon to clarify.

I only saw this entry once I'd finished my post above. I think you snuck in whilst I was typing it up.

You're right on the money! SWF = Small White Fluffy. SBF = Small Black Fluffy. You get used to all the terminology over time. Yes - the sport/activity involving the negotiation of obstacles such as jumps, tunnels, weavers, A Frame etc. is referred to as "Agility". Not necessarily. There are some who train their dogs in obedience (eg "sit"; "drop"; "leash etiquette" etc) but who also offer Agility as an additional activity to their dog. I think it's a good combo (for those dogs inclined towards agility) as both activities can compliment each other. There are others who, through Agility, have attained a certain level of obedience (eg. "here" and "stand" - used for lead outs. And then there are others who have found obedience training too difficult and "trade off" with putting their dog through Agility. In some of those cases, I've witnessed dogs taking off without any form of skill in recall and with little regard for their owners requirements. I've also seen people with dogs who really need serious behaviour modification (eg. Aggression) but the owners attempt to 'hide' (and outwardly 'deny') their dog's issues by giving up on obedience; leadership and behaviour modification efforts and turning to agility as something to do instead. I don't do flyball (although I've watched it) so my description may be lacking. With that in mind, I suggest to explain it to you by saying that it is effectively a "race" against other dogs from "point A" to "point B" and back again. The dog leaves its owner ("point A"), races over a number of jumps set out in a line, tramps on a ball release contraption ("point B"), catches the ball and races back to the owner via the jumps again. First one back with ball wins the heat. Someone can correct me if I've described all or any part of this process wrongly. ;) "Trialing" means the dog/handler combo enters formal competitions in their chosen sport or field. Eg. A person might compete in obedience. This means the person enters obedience trials. Or a person might compete in agility. This means the person enters agility trials. Etc. etc. Only ignorance if you chose not to ask. ;)

What a sweety. It's sooooooo hard, isn't it .... watching our beloved dogs in pain. I've done that before and wished I could bare the pain rather than my dog. I'm afraid I have no suggestions other than what you have done with the cream. I agree with CavNRott .... I would not medicate without Vet advice. Hopefully by morning the immediate pain will have eased and your dog will be back on the road to recovery. I'd still ring the Vet, though and see if you can get something to have on hand. Always seems to be on Sundays and night times when things occur that we need our doggies' Vets. Good luck for your and your dog. ETA: He looks pretty good for an 11 year old!

Oh dash it all, LL!!!! You tell me that AFTER I've just put on the sausages and 3 veg. LL: Maybe it's been left blank for notes!

Nothing wrong with meatballs! (searches for hands on hips emoticon). They're one of the few things I KNOW how to cook! Look forward to hearing what the tape is about.

We're in suspenders, LL. Looking out for email. But only after you finished cooking. What's for tea?

huh???? Hi M-J I can only guess LL was exclaiming about something that was on the video she is watching. Who knows! I expect she'll explain when she gets a chance.

Slight correction, if I may.. "and" with vet's permission. Not "or".

That's the way I'd read it, Denis. But I'm not a lawyer. Notice it doesn't say "acting under the supervision of a veterinary practitioner, like it does for "qualified dog trainer". Nor does it suggest you have to have anything in writing from the Vet.

Hi Dennis. This is for Victoria. Don't know about other States. Direct quote from the Act. "Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Regulations 1997 7E. Use of certain electronic collars prohibited. (1) A person must not use an electronic dog training collar that can impart an electric shock on a dog or any other animal except in the circumstances in sub-regulation (2). Penalty: 5 penalty units. (2) Sub-regulation (1) does not apply to a person who uses an electronic dog training collar on a dog - (a) if a veterinary practitioner has examined the physical health and temperament of the dog and reasonably believes that the dog is suitable to have an electronic dog training collar used on it; and (b) the person is - (i) a veterinary practitioner; or (ii) acting on the instructions of a veterinary practiitioner; or (iii) a qualified dog trainer (with the meaning of regulation 13(2) of the Domestic (Feral and Nuisance) Animals Regulations 1996); or (iv) acting under the supervision of a qualified dog trainer (within the meaning of regulation 13(2) of the Domestic (Feral and Nuisance) Animals Regulations 1996." Don't understand why they made Vets the primary people qualified to assess the dog's temperament as being (or not being) suitable for use with an e-collar. In my experience, the Vets I've spoken with when seeking permission have had no idea how an e-collar worked or how it could be detrimental on dogs with unsuitable temperaments ..... or what temperament would be determined as unsuitable. Not saying this to run Vets down. They do what they do - ie the medical side of things. I (and people like me) do what we do - ie the behaviour side of things.

I have seen the method you describe, being practiced. I don't think it is a matter of a "bad instructor" ... more appropriately, a "different training method". There will be many differing opinions on this form of 'forced hold', just as there are for other various training methods. Generally, what it comes down to is what works best for the dog. When I witnessed the 'forced hold' being demonstrated, the dogs used were not stressed - and time spent was limited to a period so the dog DIDN'T become stressed. The compulsion asserted was by no means extreme or violent - rather, it was gentle but persistent. And there were tonnes of positive reward thrown into the mix. Once the dogs got the 'idea', they were inclined to hold the article. Prior to that exercise, these dogs had no retrieving inclination that had been able to be triggered using different methods. Their new-found "trick/skill" led them on to enjoying a field of sport/activities that would otherwise have been prohibited to them if they had not been able to get past the hurdle of holding the item. ETA: I wish to add that I would not have described the method demonstrated to me as "forced mouth open ... forced mouth closed". It was more along the lines of encourage assertively the dog to receive the item and prevent it being spat out by some pressure under the dog's jaw to keep the jaw on the item.

Teach "leave" or "out" or "drop" (whatever). Then introduce the toy basket (have it empty) - position it under the spot where the toy would land when relinquished. Then start moving the basket out away from her little bit by little bit and encourage her to step towards it before giving the "leave" command. Then work towards weaning off the "leave" command. Naturally, high value rewards should be given for each step accomplished. Lower the value of that reward once your dog knows it and save the high value rewards for the next step of learning. When she ventures to "offer" the behaviour (ie moving to her basket and relinquishing her toy in it) be sure to party big time!!!! :rolleyes:

Meaning causes the blood to clot, or meaning the blood is inclined not to clot (when it should)? :rolleyes: Just querying/curious. Good info in this thread. Thank you.

Haven - do you think we could make him pay to see it? ;)

Me thinks you'll be allowed on this occasion, K9 ;).

:p ;)

Assuming your dog is in good health and is not likely to suffer from a day or two of either missing meals or receiving less than his normal ration, what I mean is to simply use his NORMAL meal AS the treats. This will alleviate your problem with regards to him being fed his usual balanced diet and your dog will learn that unless he's interested in his "meal treats" then he's lost the chance to eat that day. Might take a day or two to realise this, and it's hard when your dog initially goes around "looking" for the daily meal he's learnt to expect, but might be worth the try. As I said - I wouldn't recommend this method to anyone if the dog is not in good health or is already too underweight. But generally speaking, a couple of days of missed meal rations won't hurt and if the method is going to work it should be shortly after that that he learns his treats ARE his meals. ETA: I suggest this on the assumption you have no problems with your dog eating his normal food. ETA: Oh - And I'd start this "new" concept with your dog by getting him to do stuff he already knows in an environment he does not find overly distracting. Only for as long as it takes him to be interested in the treats. Then begin pushing for higher expectations .... a little at a time.

The psychology of the dog component definately gets the major thumbsup from me. I initially entered the field of dog training due to my then own (adopted) dog having fear aggression issues. I worked by my own instinct, at first, and although I FELT I was doing the 'right' thing, developed a keen-ness to wanting to understand WHY it was right and whether there was MORE that I could be doing, in her best interests. This component of the course went a huge way to helping me help my dog. Of course, the "dog psychology" component is a very large one, its tenticles intertwining into the training aspect (how dogs learn) as well as socialisation (early -vs- late). The knowledge I gained from this course fed my enthusiasm to assisting and training other dogs and other people with their dogs. At the time I did my course, quite some years ago, there were fewer lecturers and, for that matter, fewer topics than are now covered in the NDTF course and course electives. My favourite instructors were: Boyd - a wealth of knowledge. He could talk at a million miles an hour and his lectures were information packed, but I enjoyed his passion for sincerely wanting us to understand the content of his topics and he has a wonderful knack of paraphrasing so that if you didn't "get it" the first time around, you generally "got it" when he'd repeat in another way. Boyd has an incredible amount of knowledge and I wish I could clone the information he has stored in his head and simply put it into mine. :D Robert Holmes - an expert giving awakening information and sparking mind opening ponderings into the deeper field of specific behaviour and the possible behaviour and veterinarian interventions that can assist, and why. Steve Austin - a person also with a lot of knowledge to share, with tips on different ways of "how to" in training dogs. A lovely person with a great character too. In fact, I could go on to mention the other lecturers presenting to the group I was in too, as all of them, with all their knowledge in each different aspect of dogs/dog training/behaviour, had valuable input that collectively make the NDTF Course a very broad, well rounded and balanced and unbiased one. There was Di Stewart with her information on breeding; nutrition (certainly an eye opener); as well as the common problematic domestic issues most of us encounter at some stage of our lives with dogs. To leave anyone out, or any topic, would be to dismiss the input of knowledge these lecturers gave - knowledge which applies itself, is part of and what "makes" the NDTF Course what it is. Hhhhhmmmm .... in short and in summary? A fantastic grounding/foundation to build my further knowledge and dog studies on. An unbiased view on dog training, with explanations of why/how one thing might be better for one dog, where something different might be required for another ..... as well as the pro's and con's of each. A network of knowledgeable people who are not afraid to explore and discuss possibilities/anomolies and who are always willing to 'nut' something over with you when required. A thirst to explore, assist and train dogs (and their people) in many and varied fields .... and a hunger to know more ....... and more, and more. People who have since grown to become my friends - something I will always value, no matter where my interests lay.

I haven't completely followed this thread, so not making any comments with regards to how to deal with aggression .... But my comment here is in relation to heightening motivation for food. Rather than fasting one day a week (which is not a bad thing to do generally speaking, if your dog is in good health), why don't you use your dog's daily food rations AS THE TREATS? In other words, the treats become his daily food intake.

Is that "Hills" Science Diet? Noticed that the "Science Diets" are rating very low in comparison to others. I presume these are the science diets available for over the counter at supermarkets/dog stores. Wonder what the specialty Science Diets (available only through Vets) grade as? Eg. Hills Science Diet - TD; ID; etc.

I used to use a chamois to dry off Kal after her swims at doggy pool. There was quite a few pauses to ring it out, but she was almost dry before we got back to the car. Admittedly, her short coat was very easy to deal with in that respect. But, if using a chamois, I read that you need to be careful you don't chose one that has any sort of chemical (I think some have substances to help keep the chamois soft) as this can cause a reaction on the skin of some dogs. I've used the sports microfibre towels on myself - they are very good. If I was in the dog grooming industry, I'd probably use two or three of them for the one dog and then wring them all out in one hit once the dog was finished. Would save all those 'pauses'. But would, of course, increase the amount of towels used. Edited for spelling - I knew I'd spelt "chamois" wrong .... and recognised the correct spelling from IR's later post.