Erny

If you need it, the Devon Meadows Dog Swimming Pool telephone number is 5998 2982. And "NO", you're not allowed to ring up and ask THEM to put your name down on the list to see Kevin Kelly (just in case you thought you might) - you HAVE to do that yourself ...

There is some research now suggesting that this doesn't work, and might actually make things worse. Yep .... I read that somewhere too.

Goose bumps .... beautiful. What a lovely poem. It brought tears to my eyes. How heartwarming.

Ok, I'm no Vet but .... I wouldn't have thought so - but as I said, I don't have the qualifications to refute this in its entirety. Not to offend the Vets that don't do this, but I find so many Vets are pushing their line of Hills Science Diets - even when your dog's in peak health on the diet its on - that I'm now sceptical that they're suggesting with purely the dog's health in mind. Small, but more frequent meals, I understand are better. Also not feeding close before or after exercise. If I've been working a dog and I return it to its pen, I allow it about 5 laps of water and then remove the water for a while. From what I've seen, read and heard, I think bloat is triggered more by stress, compounded further by heat and eating regime. The common denominator does seem to be deep chested dogs, although I don't think the condition is totally exclusive to those dogs. ETA: I'm glad your dog's ok, Sue. So many don't make it through a bloat episode.

Kevin Kelly - works from the Devon Meadows Dog Swimming Pool on Stanley Road, Devon Meadows each Wednesday from 4-6pm. Can't make appointments, though. He'll only see a max of 20 dogs and it's a case of first in best dressed. Once the list is full, that's it for that day. The pool opens at 2.00pm and you take a punt - either get there at 2.00pm and be assured of a place, but then wait until 4.00pm until Kevin arrives, or arrive at 4.00pm with the very real possibility he'll already have his 'quota' for the day. Awkward, I know, but having been to a couple of chiro's (Barry included) I find Kevin excellent and worth the inconvenience. He blocks nerves with his fingers so my girl has never felt any discomfort. He's the only 'medical' professional that Kal doesn't quake in front of. (And for my dog, that's saying something!). $15.00 per visit, so he's not expensive. He's not a Vet, but has what seems to be a good amount of Veterinary knowledge and talks a lot of sense. He has an excellent following and many breeders/competitors travel somewhat large distances to see him. (I know of some that have come from Bendigo, for example.) And now I feel he should pay me for this rap. No - I don't work for him.

Ditto.

That's what it's about, FS. Hope to see you at ADT Berwick soon.

Jake showed up a couple of those workin' dogs, huh? Kick ass, Jake! Well done. Enjoy your agility - both of you ..... I'm certain you will.

Nothing to do with Anne being bias, guys ..... I can personally attest to the quality of self control and enthusiastic obedience Jake displayed on the evening ............ and I was expecting Anne to go flying backwards on that last recall - it was very powerful! Good for you, Anne .... you dun good

Fantastic, KC ... it's great you've used the head collar to what seems its fullest potential. I think what K9 (if I dare to speak for him! ) and I are driving at is that we have trained dogs (small through to very huge; shy through to confident and even over the top; young through to old; little through to a lot of past experience in pulling; etc.) to not pull on the lead in the space of minutes. The 'reliability' component of "not pulling" on the lead under distraction might take a few sessions with some, but the process is very quick and the dogs remain positive, motivated and happy. The equipment we use does not take the time a head collar takes to be properly 'introduced' and, when the dog yields a loose lead, the aversive is removed, whereas, in a head collar, it remains - this is more particularly true when dogs do not appreciate wearing the head collar, but resign themselves to it all the same. You'll see by my earlier post that I suggest there may be circumstances where a head collar might assist an owner overcome initial difficulties (and if that alone inspires an owner to work to resolve the dog's issues, then better than not ). It's just that we ... or at least "I" (K9 may or may not agree) see how 'walking on a loose lead' can be established much more efficiently, which is, of course, better for both dog and owner.

It's the work YOU do (technique etc.) that achieves the results. The equipment you use affects/effects the communication of your work, to the dog. The head collar is generally used as a control tool, not a tool of communication. IMO, the head collar provides fast management (ie control) but slower training results. But, for the more novice handler, the head collar has proven useful in providing control to an owner where it perhaps wasn't possible for the owner to obtain before. Having the control might at least avail the owner the opportunity to apply behaviour modification methods and/or desensitisation techniques where they before couldn't. One of the biggest 'risks' is that many people do not seek to learn to fit and apply the head collar properly and the other biggest 'risk' is that people often stay on the head collar longer than would be necessary or elect not to go that extra distance by working to wean off the head collar. This is where, IMO, any behaviour modification program begins to slow down even further. IMO, if the owner is not hindered by weakness of limb or other physical limitations (and even then, there are other, better choices of equipment), there are better training tools that will communicate more clearly to the dog and hasten a training/behaviour modification program much more efficiently.

Go Perry! And go Perry's Mum! Thank you for giving Perry a wonderful life that she so clearly deserves. I suspect she's paying you back for your kind heart.

Staffyluv .... in the absence of words that could adequately describe what I feel for what you're going through -:

:rolleyes: Noooooooooo ................ that's too simple, Lablover! :rolleyes:

This is besides the point, but an inward opening door of a crate (I assuming you're talking about the crate?) is unusual? Only other option I can think of is that the eyelet to which you might attach a tiedown could be on the base of the vehicle, to one side of the crate. I'm not sure if this description makes sense to you, but I can see it in my mind's eye. Or maybe even to the bottom edge of the front wall of the crate? I'm just throwing shots in the dark now, in an effort to help in your plight, Scope. Sorry if the suggestions are all useless to your situation.

Then perhaps tether to the floor of the vehicle/crate?

Little "hop jumps" (by braking, unbraking, braking, unbraking etc.) might help. Your speed should not be fast enough to THROW him around and hurt him - even in a natural roll (ie no foot on accelarator) and tiny little brakes & releases, might be sufficient for him to make the decision to lay down. Of course, when he lays down, you cease the "hop jumps". I used to do this with my horse in the float when he would start pawing the floor and walls with his hooves. Didn't take much to stop the habit (although he'd only just begun it). I've also used this method when my dog would stand up in the passenger rear seat. In that instance, being that she was in the car with me, I'd tell her to sit, but if she didn't, I'd gently "hop jump" ... IF she stands now (which she generally doesn't), I tell her to sit and she does so promptly. The other option would be to tether him to the floor of the crate - loose enough that he can lay comfortably, but not so loose that he can easily sit or stand. ETA: I've never used the "hop jump" method violently, and neither my horse nor my dog are frightened of travel .... in fact, my biggest problem is keeping my horse from getting up in the float and my dog from getting in the car - they both seem to love it.

Dianne, what's that?? Is it okay for cats? In my (very) younger days, Mum used to give us a dose of Milk of Magnesia when we had diarrhea. I don't know what components of it would be effective in ceasing copraphagia. I haven't heard of this being given to dogs, for this purpose, at least. Have no idea of its affect on cats - be careful. ETA: Milk of Magnesia tastes disgusting. It's like drinking liquid chalk. I don't know which was worse - the symptom or the cure.

I wrote this piece for a discussion I had with someone else: (it's easier to cut and paste it, than to re-type ... hope you don't mind) .... I understand there has been a degree of success with feeding the dog pineapple. It has been thought that that the presence of processed pineapple in dog faeces renders the faeces unattractive, therefore deterring the dog from ingesting its stools. However, “Bromelain” is an enzyme capable of digesting protein and is found in pineapples. I’m not a nutritionist, but my thoughts on the subject is that perhaps ingestion of pineapple has provided the enzyme necessary for a higher absorption of protein - the dog, its protein requirements having been satiated, is not seeking self supplementation of this nutrient, therefore has no need to ingest its faeces??? The first paragraph would indicate it's about the effect of the pineapple in the faeces that puts dogs off eating it (ie the faeces). If my own musings in the second paragraph are correct, however, it would be the opposite.

Double post :D

Mana - you may already be aware of this, but in case you (or any one else that is reading) don't, I find it really easy to collect a wee sample by using a dust pan (make sure it's clean first). I find you don't get your hand pee'd on and it has a good broad area to catch the pee (incase your aim isn't spot on!) One other reason for teaching dogs to wee on command. I've had to collect so many wee samples in the time I've owned my girl, it really makes that part of life so much easier. My girl has been having spasmodic bouts of incontinence over the last 2 years. But she's a 12 year old and I suspect it's due to some other underlying condition/s that she is presently being monitored for. There's some tablets you can get from the health food store too, Mana. I have forgotten their name, but they are for incontinence and if my memory serves me correctly, you can get children dosage (they're the ones to use). They're naturally based, too. If your health store doesn't know, PM me and I'll trot back to my local health food store and check for you. I think some people use sudaphed on their dogs for this purpose too.

Mana - I think 6 months onwards is generally considered to be ok. I'm just generally curious. I'm not keeping a formal count, or anything like that ... I like to ask out of general interest sake, though. I wonder if Grace's health issues had a bearing on the development/strength of the sphincter muscle. I have no idea, so please don't think I'm pointing to anything in particular. Thanks for sharing. :D PS. Your girls both look gorgeous and happy. I don't think you were foolish!

Thanks, Mana. How old was her sister when she was spayed? Just collecting data, 'cause I'm interested in the readings relating to early desexing. :D

Merely out of interest, Dwynwen and Mana ... how old were your girls when they were desexed (assuming they are)?

Thank you Barb.