Advice On How To Care For Clipper Blades

[meluchja]

Hi,

Yesterday I bought a size 4F Oster blade to use on my dog. I have had the clippers for about 6 months now, but just using the blade guides on a size 10 blade. This was doing a terrible job, so I took the plunge and spent 90 on the oster blade. (hope I didn't get ripped off). Anyway I'm not used to spending that much money. I know in the long run it will save me lots of money, but that's what I'm hoping that with proper care this blade will last me for a long long time.

So, can anyone give me some advice on how to care for it properely. How to wash it, oil it, store it etc. After giving it a trial run yesterday, I washed it in warm water, while still running to get all the hair out, then dried it, then applied a drop of oil at either end of the blade while it was still running. I hope none of this has damaged it.

Does this sound o.k?

Do I need to do something like this after everytime I use it ?

I have stored it along with the size 10 blade, in individual plastic zip bags, is this o.k?

What about sharpening? If I use the clippers twice every 3-4 months, how often will this need to be done?

And can anyone recommend me a place here in Brisbane that can do this at a reasonable price? And also how much does this normally cost?

Look forward to reading your advice thanks heaps.

[frufru]

Don't use water and don't do anything else until you read the info on this site - if still in doubt give Colin a ring

http://www.clipperbladesharpening.biz/index.asp

[Dogs4Fun]

Don't use water.

Every time after you use it, brush clean, then use a blade wash (Oster make one) to clean the blade, then oil before storing. Make sure you only ever clip a clean coat. You may need to clean and oil while you are clipping if the coat is dense.

[Puppoochi]

Ian Parsons is terrific, if you want to clean the blade, use a wire brush and soak in metho.

http://www.clippersharpening.com.au/genera...aintenance.phps

[meluchja]

Thank you very much for all your help, so water is a big no no, thanks. I hope I haven't done them any damage. Oil is a must even during his clip.

Can I ask what about the brand of blade. I see there are a few to choose from, I bought the Oster because it's all I could get at the store. I found a universal one though for about 1/3 of the price. Are blades something, where you get for what you pay for? Would be cheaper universal ones be just as good, or not?

Which do you use and recommend?

[Miranda]

I only use Oster blades, I would think that a universal blade that's around a third of the price wouldn't be as good, but then I've never used one. BTW $90 is horrendously expensive for an Oster 4F, Clipper World here in Melbourne have them for $55.95.

[Dogsfevr]

I groom full time & have never needed to oil during a clip.

1 blade used on a clean coat shouldn't need to be sharpen for well over a year unless something is odd with it.

Water is certainly a big no no as you will rust the blade.

The price you paid is alot of money & with the US dollar the way it is the blade prices should be much cheaper at present.

depends where you brought it from but most small places that sell blades will charge way more than places like Clipper world or similiar where there business is clippers/blades & the likes.

You can order on the net & get them sent to you

http://www.clipperworld.com.au/shop/index....at&catId=10

you will see the price difference above

[Danielle]

Don't use water. There are cleaning sprays you can buy to clean and disinfect your blades. Oil after every use and store in a safe place. I warsp my blades in tissue paper and have an Oster storage unit to prevent damage. Oster blades are very good and so are Wahl and Andis.

[meluchja]

Thank you for all your help. So I contacted a blade sharpening company, who were very very helpful, gave me loads of advice on cleaning using 9 parts kero to 1 part motor oil. Said Oster do the same version but much much more expensive. But for me and my usuage just might be worth the extra money for convience. So this with the info that you all have shared, has hopefully given me enough knowledge to take care of them properely.

I thought I may have got ripped off with the blade. It isn't the same one that is on the clipper world site, was a CryoGen-X AgION® blade. Not sure if that is why it was more expensive, but either way I have it now, so going to get my moneys worth, lol. I think next time I will try the universal one, as the clipper I bought is universal and is awesome, and only cost me 10.50 on ebay direct from Hong Kong. Which by the way is the same type this store is about to start stocking for about 200

Anyway thank you all for your help. Very much appreciated.

[Dogsfevr]

Besides blade maintenance you should also keep on hand spare tongues for the clipper head,most people blame the blade when they don't cut but if the tongue is warn out then the blade doesn't sit right

[meluchja]

Besides blade maintenance you should also keep on hand spare tongues for the clipper head,most people blame the blade when they don't cut but if the tongue is warn out then the blade doesn't sit right

I did read about this today on the sharpeners site. I think I will ask him about it when I order another blade off him. Although I wouldn't have a clue what the tongue looks like or how to replace it hahaha. Is it something a non professional can do themself or should I send the whole clipper off to a professional to do? Think some more research is in order on my behalf.

[Puppoochi]

From Ian Parsons, he's a second generation sharpener and he goes to the states for sharpening competitions. Yes there are sharpening competions

The basics:

(1) Brushing

Purchase a wirebrush (brass for hairdressers) and brush the comb and cutter teeth free of all that dander that lodges in between the teeth. Don't worry that you are going to blunt a blade with a wire brush, your blade is carbon steel and far harder than than the wire brush bristles. I have sharpened many blades that were not blunt, but had so much dander in the teeth that it would no longer pick up the hair to feed the cutter, hence the groomer considered them blunt. Dander in the clipper teeth breeds bacteria and encourages rust.

(2) Oiling

Get some quality clipper blade oil. I will recommend Feather Edge Sharpening oil because it is solvent free and won't stain the human/animal coat. Never ever use vegetable oil. Natural oils oxidise to the point that they glue the cutter to the comb, and fill the teeth with gum often rendering the blade useless.

Oil the blade before you start and during the job. A tiny amount is all thats needed, you don't want the oil to bleed into the comb and get in the hair. Oil when the clipper blade is running, and blot with a rag once it is oiled.

Oil with the machine running and the cutter will work the oil out towards the edges of the blade. This is why a small amount of oil goes a long way. The plastic slide on the tension bar should never be dry.

(3) Cleaning

Cleaning is the area where there is much urban myth. The advent of blade sprays and washes has lead to new marketable products with little benefit. Any product that contains solvent has the potential to get into the clipper. So guess what? the solvent works it way up the driver lever and the grease gets stripped out of the gearbox. In time you get to buy new gearbox parts. I have seen blade wash solvents get far into the motors which is an area that should be strictly dry. Never use kerosine it excellerates clipper blade and gearbox wear.

The only thing I suggest you use is metholated spirits or denatured alcohol. So why?

1. Alcohol is hydroscopic (sucks up water) so clipper blade moisture is dissolved.

2. Non toxic to the user unless you take a fancy to having a swig of it

3. It evaporates quickly without residue and is unable to get into your clipping machine

4. Very cheap from the supermarket and easily avaliable.

5. Is not aggresive enough to strip the oil from the blade over a short time

6. Sterilises whatever it contacts

The use of blade wash or disinfectant actually strips oil out of the blade steel. Once the blade is re-oiled, and heats up it is goodbye oil. Blade wash is strong enough to liquify grease, so oil is no problem for it to dissolve.

The Main Points to Remember:

Corrosion takes place in the presence of water or blood. In order to minimise the harmful effects of corrosion; lube the blades with clear oil while the clippers are running. Remember rust starts work when you stop.

Dirt and grit on the coats of animals will increase clipper wear. Whilst it is not always practical to wash and dry every animal, top Groomers are able to clip many more clean dogs than dirty ones before blade sharpening. Modern high speed clippers allow Groomers many more dirty clips than was once possible.

Lubrication In contrast with sheep's wool, which contains a large amount of oil, most other animal hair is dry. For best results the blades should be oiled every 10-15 minutes with light clear oil such as Feather Edge clipper oil. Do not use a 3-in-1 oil, i.e. WD40 or vegetable oil, as these will leave a sticky residue after the volatile constituents have evaporated. Never use a mix of kerosene and oil to lubricate your blades (an urban myth from the 1960's), this combination destroys clipper gearboxes, and decreases blade life.

The primary reason that people complain that their clipper blades don't last long, is because they allow them to run dry during use.

Overheating Friction between the comb and cutter causes heat during use. During use, the hair and contact carry the heat away from the animals skin. Do not run the clipper blades for long periods unless they are clipping hair. Regular blade oiling also minimises blade temperature.

Clogging of the comb and cutter can occur from dander and other substances. Finer blades have a particular problem in this area, and may result in them being prematurely discarded. Cleaning with a wire brush all dander from the cutter and comb will enable further use before resharpening. Always ensure your blades are dry, (possibly from a warm drier) and oil to prevent corrosion.

Blunt blades should be wire brushed clean, and stored in a dry place prior to being put aside for sharpening. The result of tossing the blades aside encourages corrosion that needs to be machined out, and reduces the number of times they may be sharpened. Store blunt blades in a dry caddie such as the Blunt Blade Box

Edited February 2, 2011 by poodiful1

[meluchja]

Wow thats some awesome advice, thanks heaps

From Ian Parsons, he's a second generation sharpener and he goes to the states for sharpening competitions. Yes there are sharpening competions

The basics:

(1) Brushing

Purchase a wirebrush (brass for hairdressers) and brush the comb and cutter teeth free of all that dander that lodges in between the teeth. Don't worry that you are going to blunt a blade with a wire brush, your blade is carbon steel and far harder than than the wire brush bristles. I have sharpened many blades that were not blunt, but had so much dander in the teeth that it would no longer pick up the hair to feed the cutter, hence the groomer considered them blunt. Dander in the clipper teeth breeds bacteria and encourages rust.

(2) Oiling

Get some quality clipper blade oil. I will recommend Feather Edge Sharpening oil because it is solvent free and won't stain the human/animal coat. Never ever use vegetable oil. Natural oils oxidise to the point that they glue the cutter to the comb, and fill the teeth with gum often rendering the blade useless.

Oil the blade before you start and during the job. A tiny amount is all thats needed, you don't want the oil to bleed into the comb and get in the hair. Oil when the clipper blade is running, and blot with a rag once it is oiled.

Oil with the machine running and the cutter will work the oil out towards the edges of the blade. This is why a small amount of oil goes a long way. The plastic slide on the tension bar should never be dry.

(3) Cleaning

Cleaning is the area where there is much urban myth. The advent of blade sprays and washes has lead to new marketable products with little benefit. Any product that contains solvent has the potential to get into the clipper. So guess what? the solvent works it way up the driver lever and the grease gets stripped out of the gearbox. In time you get to buy new gearbox parts. I have seen blade wash solvents get far into the motors which is an area that should be strictly dry. Never use kerosine it excellerates clipper blade and gearbox wear.

The only thing I suggest you use is metholated spirits or denatured alcohol. So why?

1. Alcohol is hydroscopic (sucks up water) so clipper blade moisture is dissolved.

2. Non toxic to the user unless you take a fancy to having a swig of it

3. It evaporates quickly without residue and is unable to get into your clipping machine

4. Very cheap from the supermarket and easily avaliable.

5. Is not aggresive enough to strip the oil from the blade over a short time

6. Sterilises whatever it contacts

The use of blade wash or disinfectant actually strips oil out of the blade steel. Once the blade is re-oiled, and heats up it is goodbye oil. Blade wash is strong enough to liquify grease, so oil is no problem for it to dissolve.

The Main Points to Remember:

Corrosion takes place in the presence of water or blood. In order to minimise the harmful effects of corrosion; lube the blades with clear oil while the clippers are running. Remember rust starts work when you stop.

Dirt and grit on the coats of animals will increase clipper wear. Whilst it is not always practical to wash and dry every animal, top Groomers are able to clip many more clean dogs than dirty ones before blade sharpening. Modern high speed clippers allow Groomers many more dirty clips than was once possible.

Lubrication In contrast with sheep's wool, which contains a large amount of oil, most other animal hair is dry. For best results the blades should be oiled every 10-15 minutes with light clear oil such as Feather Edge clipper oil. Do not use a 3-in-1 oil, i.e. WD40 or vegetable oil, as these will leave a sticky residue after the volatile constituents have evaporated. Never use a mix of kerosene and oil to lubricate your blades (an urban myth from the 1960's), this combination destroys clipper gearboxes, and decreases blade life.

The primary reason that people complain that their clipper blades don't last long, is because they allow them to run dry during use.

Overheating Friction between the comb and cutter causes heat during use. During use, the hair and contact carry the heat away from the animals skin. Do not run the clipper blades for long periods unless they are clipping hair. Regular blade oiling also minimises blade temperature.

Clogging of the comb and cutter can occur from dander and other substances. Finer blades have a particular problem in this area, and may result in them being prematurely discarded. Cleaning with a wire brush all dander from the cutter and comb will enable further use before resharpening. Always ensure your blades are dry, (possibly from a warm drier) and oil to prevent corrosion.

Blunt blades should be wire brushed clean, and stored in a dry place prior to being put aside for sharpening. The result of tossing the blades aside encourages corrosion that needs to be machined out, and reduces the number of times they may be sharpened. Store blunt blades in a dry caddie such as the Blunt Blade Box

[Puppoochi]

Wow thats some awesome advice, thanks heaps

From Ian Parsons, he's a second generation sharpener and he goes to the states for sharpening competitions. Yes there are sharpening competions

The basics:

(1) Brushing

Purchase a wirebrush (brass for hairdressers) and brush the comb and cutter teeth free of all that dander that lodges in between the teeth. Don't worry that you are going to blunt a blade with a wire brush, your blade is carbon steel and far harder than than the wire brush bristles. I have sharpened many blades that were not blunt, but had so much dander in the teeth that it would no longer pick up the hair to feed the cutter, hence the groomer considered them blunt. Dander in the clipper teeth breeds bacteria and encourages rust.

(2) Oiling

Get some quality clipper blade oil. I will recommend Feather Edge Sharpening oil because it is solvent free and won't stain the human/animal coat. Never ever use vegetable oil. Natural oils oxidise to the point that they glue the cutter to the comb, and fill the teeth with gum often rendering the blade useless.

Oil the blade before you start and during the job. A tiny amount is all thats needed, you don't want the oil to bleed into the comb and get in the hair. Oil when the clipper blade is running, and blot with a rag once it is oiled.

Oil with the machine running and the cutter will work the oil out towards the edges of the blade. This is why a small amount of oil goes a long way. The plastic slide on the tension bar should never be dry.

(3) Cleaning

Cleaning is the area where there is much urban myth. The advent of blade sprays and washes has lead to new marketable products with little benefit. Any product that contains solvent has the potential to get into the clipper. So guess what? the solvent works it way up the driver lever and the grease gets stripped out of the gearbox. In time you get to buy new gearbox parts. I have seen blade wash solvents get far into the motors which is an area that should be strictly dry. Never use kerosine it excellerates clipper blade and gearbox wear.

The only thing I suggest you use is metholated spirits or denatured alcohol. So why?

1. Alcohol is hydroscopic (sucks up water) so clipper blade moisture is dissolved.

2. Non toxic to the user unless you take a fancy to having a swig of it

3. It evaporates quickly without residue and is unable to get into your clipping machine

4. Very cheap from the supermarket and easily avaliable.

5. Is not aggresive enough to strip the oil from the blade over a short time

6. Sterilises whatever it contacts

The use of blade wash or disinfectant actually strips oil out of the blade steel. Once the blade is re-oiled, and heats up it is goodbye oil. Blade wash is strong enough to liquify grease, so oil is no problem for it to dissolve.

The Main Points to Remember:

Corrosion takes place in the presence of water or blood. In order to minimise the harmful effects of corrosion; lube the blades with clear oil while the clippers are running. Remember rust starts work when you stop.

Dirt and grit on the coats of animals will increase clipper wear. Whilst it is not always practical to wash and dry every animal, top Groomers are able to clip many more clean dogs than dirty ones before blade sharpening. Modern high speed clippers allow Groomers many more dirty clips than was once possible.

Lubrication In contrast with sheep's wool, which contains a large amount of oil, most other animal hair is dry. For best results the blades should be oiled every 10-15 minutes with light clear oil such as Feather Edge clipper oil. Do not use a 3-in-1 oil, i.e. WD40 or vegetable oil, as these will leave a sticky residue after the volatile constituents have evaporated. Never use a mix of kerosene and oil to lubricate your blades (an urban myth from the 1960's), this combination destroys clipper gearboxes, and decreases blade life.

The primary reason that people complain that their clipper blades don't last long, is because they allow them to run dry during use.

Overheating Friction between the comb and cutter causes heat during use. During use, the hair and contact carry the heat away from the animals skin. Do not run the clipper blades for long periods unless they are clipping hair. Regular blade oiling also minimises blade temperature.

Clogging of the comb and cutter can occur from dander and other substances. Finer blades have a particular problem in this area, and may result in them being prematurely discarded. Cleaning with a wire brush all dander from the cutter and comb will enable further use before resharpening. Always ensure your blades are dry, (possibly from a warm drier) and oil to prevent corrosion.

Blunt blades should be wire brushed clean, and stored in a dry place prior to being put aside for sharpening. The result of tossing the blades aside encourages corrosion that needs to be machined out, and reduces the number of times they may be sharpened. Store blunt blades in a dry caddie such as the Blunt Blade Box

Ian Parsons does a great job sharpening, I know you live in QLD (I hope for your sake not Cairns or Townsville atm) but you can post scissors, knives and blades to him. He has a 24 hour turnaround period so providing Australia Post does a good job, if you sent them off on a Sunday, you no doubt will get them back by Friday. I actually go to his house where he works out of his garage. He's a really clean neat freak, very organised.

http://www.clippersharpening.com.au/genera...aintenance.phps

Edited February 2, 2011 by poodiful1

[Stitch]

Would sewing machine oil be OK on the blades?

[meluchja]

Would sewing machine oil be OK on the blades?

I was told yesterday by the guy that sharpens the blades, that singer sewing oil is the best oil you can use of them, and one of the cheapest. I'm about to go get some from woolies.

[Puppoochi]

Would sewing machine oil be OK on the blades?

Not according to Ian Parsons. Before he had hid own brand of oil, he said that the wahl oil was the best. If you visit Ian's website you will see that he's a Certified Grand Master Sharpener. It is his life and his passion, he cares about blades & scissors as much as we care about our dogs.

Edited February 2, 2011 by poodiful1

[Puppoochi]

Would sewing machine oil be OK on the blades?

I was told yesterday by the guy that sharpens the blades, that singer sewing oil is the best oil you can use of them, and one of the cheapest. I'm about to go get some from woolies.

I just rang Ian for you about the sewing machine oil, he said that it has solvents in it as does the sprays. He also said that the reason he now has his own oil is because it has absolutely no solvents at all. Even wahl oil has some solvents but better than others on the market. He also said that atm he's a couple of days behind, due to christmas peaks for groomers was over, and most groomers have a lull around this time. Also, due to the humidity that we've recently had, he's had a lot of blades come in with rust. He really is the sharpening guru. You can choose to listen to the other guy if you wish, but, I doubt that he's as passionate about blades and scissors as Ian is. Ian goes to the states for seminars and sharpening comps in the US every couple of years. And he does quite a bit of winning.

[poodle3081]

Would sewing machine oil be OK on the blades?

I was told yesterday by the guy that sharpens the blades, that singer sewing oil is the best oil you can use of them, and one of the cheapest. I'm about to go get some from woolies.

I just rang Ian for you about the sewing machine oil, he said that it has solvents in it as does the sprays. He also said that the reason he now has his own oil is because it has absolutely no solvents at all. Even wahl oil has some solvents but better than others on the market. He also said that atm he's a couple of days behind, due to christmas peaks for groomers was over, and most groomers have a lull around this time. Also, due to the humidity that we've recently had, he's had a lot of blades come in with rust. He really is the sharpening guru. You can choose to listen to the other guy if you wish, but, I doubt that he's as passionate about blades and scissors as Ian is. Ian goes to the states for seminars and sharpening comps in the US every couple of years. And he does quite a bit of winning.

I doubt there is any accurate information on the ingredients of commercial clipping oils and with people pushing their own brand it is easy to make unsubstantiated claims.

[kirst_goldens]

does washing blades after a groom in kero make them smell next time u use it? i hate the blade washes on the market at the moment, they smell and are coloured and just not nice, i have seen the petrol and kero mix but i didnt like that either... but i dont want the dogs clean coats to smell like kero! I think i will use this guy for sharpening from now on he seems to know his S***! i have been VERY unhappy with everywhere in VIC for some time now!