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Info Needed - Blue Stafford Health


kohbi1
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I have recently purchased a registered Stafford that we called Skye. She is a Blue. I had been looking at dogs for some time and as soon as I saw her I knew she was the dog for me. Since her purchase, I was soooooo excited that I wanted to learn everything about Stafford's that I could.

It was then that I found out the health issues that may come with some Blue's. What I want to know is what I should be checking for to ensure she is healthy.

I don't regret my purchase one bit, she is a beautiful dog and is great natured and she is now part of my family. I just want to make sure she has the best life I can give her and be prepared if she has issues.

I am really confused by what I have read on Blue's. I don't know whether she is destined to have health issues or if only a small minority of Blue's have health issues.

Any info or advice would be appreciated. Thanks

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Congrats on your new puppy. I am though surprised that you didn't look into possible problems before you purchased rather than later, when it may be too late. You said you had been looking at dogs for a while. I sincerely hope that your pup won't have the problems associated with the blues, but prior knowledge would have been an advantage.

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These are questions you should be asking the breeder (actually you these are questions you should have asked the breeder before you parted with your money, but too late now!)

L2-HGA & HC are the two genetic conditions in Staffords with DNA tests. You should have got at the very least the certificates for both parents - if not, ask for them.

Distichiasis & PHPV are two eye conditions with no DNA test available. Both parents should have certificates showing they are clinically clear (have been examined and don't have these problems). If you didn't get copies of these, ask for them.

Dilute alopecia is the biggy with blues, just because they're blue (a dilute colour)

The first thing you need to consider is her pedigree. Is she from generations of blue-to-blue breeding? If so then you certainly increased your chances of her having issues for two reasons -

1) absolutely no one with any knowledge of Staffords or concern for the breed will breed blue to blue to blue, so what ELSE have they failed to consider before doing the mating and

2) because dilute alopecia obviously only affects dilutes (blues, blue fawns) if you pile dilute upon dilute in a pedigree you are increasing your chances of also getting the genes which ALSO cause dilute alopecia.

There's nothing you can do about dilute alopecia.

Generalised allergies are the next biggy with any Stafford and if you are dealing with a badly bred one (as in (1) above) (although it doesn't matter what colour you have) you are increasing the chances that the breeder hasn't bothered to exclude dogs with allergies from their breeding programme. Sadly some breeders who some may be considered "good" also don't exclude these dogs, but poor breeders are far more likely not to if you understand what I mean :)

There are a few things you can do about this, see below

The third biggy with any badly bred dog of any breed is the physical structure of the dog, just because it's a pure bred dog doesn't mean it is correctly constructed. The breed standard isn't just for show dogs!

With Staffords many badly bred ones are bred from parents with huge heads, straight shoulders, dippy toplines and straight stifles - all things which prevent the dog living a normal Stafford life and can lead to lameness, serious patella and hip issues and just a general lack of the ability to run and leap and do Stafford stuff.

There's not much you can do about this either.

Allergies can probably not be avoided completely IF your dog has a tendency to them.

A large part of allergies is related to the immune system, and a large part of the immune systems function is genetic.

But there are a few things you can do to reduce your odds of having major issues.

Minimal immunisation - this involves researching the local conditions and not just immunising for everything because the vet says so. Ensuring the dog is absolutely in the peak of condition when immunising can help.

Avoid unnecessary chemicals - don't use heartworm injections, use monthly chews if essential but research the actual risk in your area.

Don't use flea or worming preparations if you don't have actual proof they're needed - fecal floats, actual flea sitings for example.

Feed a variety of foods right from the start, there is a body of evidence to suggest that dogs (and people) can actually develop sensitivies to foods if that's all they get. Personally I would suggest a raw diet.

If the dog gets a rash or itch, don't rush off for the big guns from the vet (steroids, chemical washes, antibiotics are the favourites). If it's a small reaction, using the least amount of medication to make the dog comfortable and do all you can to get the dog's own system to react and overcome the problem. Barrier cream for a contact allergy, zinc based nappy cream works well, gentle calendula wash in place of chemical washes, things like this.

Of course you have to be sure to be monitoring the situation and making sure the dog is comfortable - I'm not suggesting ignoring a major infected outbreak!

Keep the dog lean and fit and mentally active (obedience, agility, fly ball, all good Stafford activities) will help.

I would suggest going back to the breeder and asking questions about the health of the parents, the parents' siblings, the grand parents and their siblings.

Make yourself a "map" of issues and if they don't have many in common you'll probably be fine, if one thing keeps cropping up then you'll have an idea of what you might be in for.

Above all - enjoy!

ETA: I would also avoid desexing your bitch until she is fully mature (1 year old at least), not only to avoid the stress of the operation but also to allow her body to develop and grow naturally. Yes some bitches do have skin issues when coming in heat, but who's to say this is less or more than she would have had if subjected to a major operation. Obviously you have to be able to keep her safe while in season :)

Edited by Sandra777
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Thank you for your responses, it has been most helpful. In response to some comments, we bought Skye from a family when she was 10 months old as the family could not look after her. I am trying to contact the breeders but am having trouble with this, hence why I came to this forum for some answers.

I appreciate everyone's time, the answers were really helpful. When I become less retarded with computers, I will put up some pic's :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

I think Sandra's post covered pretty much everything.

Our SBT boy has skin and food allergies - for the first 12 months he would get rashes and hotspots almost continually. I spent a fortune on creams and washes for him but nothing worked. Then our vet told us to stop bathing him. Now he is bathed every 3-4 months and we have not had a single skin problem since! If he gets dirty I fill his pool up and that gets most the muck off him.

In relation to good allergies make sure you feed your girl good quality biscuits if you aren't going for a completely raw diet. Tin sardines are also really good for their coat and skin. Our dogs get no scraps or ''human food'' unless it's just meat (no marinades) pasta or rice. After the third time our boy was in the vet overnight with a food allergy we decided it was better to be safe then sorry.

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Sandra is zinc based nappy cream ok if the dog is able to lick it off? I've been meaning to ask someone for ages. Sorry to go OT.

MIL's little crossbred foxie type used to get terrible rashes. Never did her any harm to lick the barrier cream she used but it's got to depend on the dog I suppose. I would guess that if it's safe to be absorbed through a baby's skin it's safe for most dogs.

Edited by Sandra777
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