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and we will never know. It was obviously still powerful

https://www.abc.net.au/news/2025-09-08/greyhound-advocates-lobby-tasmanian-government-ahead-of-shutdown/105724644

Hi all, Our 48kg, 5yo fosterdog of 2mths, has a new split in one of his outside front paw nails, that runs from the tip about halfway to the base. It hasn't bled. He's a very sensitive dog who suffered significant violent trauma from humans pre-rescue, so is distrustful once his fear is triggered. Any vet treatment is likely to raise his baseline anxiety, which has really lowered in our care, so we're keen to avoid vet IF safe to do so. Please see 2 photos, attached, taken before & after we managed to trim the nail tip, yesterday. This required his 2 trusted carers; nail clipper; muzzle (he's fully trained for); nil force & lots of treats. He growled & momentarily air-snapped shortly after the single clip, but recovered well, with limited apparent impact on baseline anxiety. We're painting or briefly soaking the cracked nail in 1:10 diluted Bettadine, to try to keep bacteria from colonising the crack & reaching the quick. He's been licking the nail/paw occasionally, but we discourage/distract him from this & it's not been too frequent, so far. I think an Elizabethan collar will significantly raise his anxiety & he'll paw at it with damaged nail (he has history of removing one after de-sexing). Likewise, I think an adhesive dog bandage on his paw would soon be torn off, potentially damaging the cracked nail further. Also, just putting bandage on will likely require force or sedation, both of which we hope to avoid. We hadn't tried to trim or file his nails, yet, because we're still building his trust in having his paws touched & handled. He's particularly sensitive about having his paws, tail, ears & mouth touched. I've read that human split nails can have the crack temporarily covered (until they grow out) by means of fine gauze (teabag paper) coated in nail varnish. I've researched non-toxic nail varnish for dogs, but am concerned it may still irritate quick if this is exposed through crack. I also fear dog may chew treatment off. Another forum site offered the idea of supergluing the crack to prevent further splitting. But again, I'd be concerned about toxic chemicals, possible irritation of the quick & ingestion if he chews the glue off. I'm also unsure if keratin nails form a strong bond with superglue, or if glue will hold on a fine joint like this crack. So am wondering if any readers have had any comparable experiences; know of any safe repair/binding method; or other useful ideas? Thanks

Ten year old large/giant breeds dog. I wonder if it had undiagnosed or untreated medical issues.

Poor girl - I hope she pulls through. That would have been horrific for all concerned .

https://www.abc.net.au/news/2025-09-05/bystanders-help-save-girl-in-dog-attack-at-newcastle/105739430

We had to stop using it altogether this year. Our boy was doing really well on it then suddenly developed food intolerances and we've had to do a long elimination diet. He can eat all the proteins we already knew about so I feel like there was some kind of new additive in the kibble that suddenly made him sick. Prior to all this I've been feeding my dogs grain free Black Hawk or Canidae for years without any problems.

Has Black Hawk improved since they opened the new manufacturing facilities a couple of years ago? I know it used to cause diarrhea in some dogs, but not sure if that's the case anymore, which would make it pretty good as far as kibbles go? Has anyone tried the air dried option? It looks like they're bringing out a high meat dry food as well...

What has this got to do with a breed post? Far Out

Don’t care what breed it is, no dog is guaranteed to respond correctly in the event of an attack by a strange human unless they are trained to do so. Some may be more likely to respond correctly, but there are stories of Dobermans that licked burglars, and chihuahuas that hamstringed a purse snatcher. 9apps tutuapp

I just read this & crying… I miss my golden so much, after 2 years.. 192.168.100.1 192.168.1.1

Rest in peace Bobo, if you know you know, the real offender here was the person who jumped my fence will a steel pole connecting with my brother's head shattering the left side of his face, eye socket, top and bottom jaw, sinus collapsed, reconstructive surgery could not rectify the multiple dispersed fragments of my brother's left eye socket causing major swelling resulting in the eye having to be removed completely, my dog/family member was witness to this putrid act of un prevoked violence, yea we were doing burnouts there's no denying that, but what old mate did was met after the fact with an act of violence deserving of his initial action. Don't believe the hype, if I supposedly released my dog to attack him, how was his injuries to the front of his groin, victim's statement and fact sheet show he said he was running from the dog I released and therefore being pursued by the dog, reason would come to believe he would've obtained injuries to his buttocks, thigh, calf ankle!

My uncle Peter bought his father in law's sheep station at Inverell after really severe drought . After rain finally came he restocked it with very aged ewes, he was a city raised the locals were laughing their heads off when they arrived but Peter said to my parents, even if I only get 3 lambings from them, they are culled for ages stud ewes so the best of the best of their year, all were already in lamb. When the classer went through the fleeces the next year it was Peter laughing. He also bought two dogs with them, an older well trained and younger trained. He said the dogs knew exactly what to do , best buy he made too. Adored his sheep dog's His toughest task was learning to ride his new horse, Blue But he soon learnt

Many, many years ago, like in the 80's, vaccination schedules were: one year parvo alone, the next a c3. I had vets in rural and capital city that followed this.

Well remember Ivor Slezachek BVSc telling me that "Mt Druit was the biggest vector of unvaccinated dogs and cat's in the Sydney basin. After a strong Easterly he would be getting up to a dozen a day with parvo being brought to his surgery in Stafford St Penrith." So plenty of unvaccinated dogs in Penrith too....

"before there were motorbikes and quads, there were sheepdogs"..... There are STILL sheepdogs. Motorbikes and quads are noisy, riders who do NOT understand/care for the sheep tend to go fast and stress the sheep, and accidents can be fatal. Dogs are quiet - they can read the sheep and act accordingly. With 2 dogs on a reasonable mob of sheep one can be at the lead slowing them down and leading them..and one can be at the rear/sides, keeping them together and moving . Sheepmen know that the speed of a mob is that of the slowest sheep . Sheep,en also know that there is often an old ewe who will try and break away from the mob/lead them in another direction.Dogs know this too- and can act independent of the stockman to keep the mob together and at speed. I hate seeing young folks roaring around sheep on wheels....the sheep often get confused, get away from moving as a mob, and need frequent correcting by a roaring bike/quad. Waeching good dogs handle large mobs of sheep is wonderful.

https://www.abc.net.au/news/2025-08-31/working-sheepdogs-championships-northam/105699160

Look up Predation Substitute Training by Simone Mueller

As part of my involvement with Animal Care Australia, I regularly assist in our submissions relating to animal welfare policies and legislation Australia-wide. Currently looking at the draft Domestic Animal Management Plan (DAMP) for Wellington Shire Council in Victoria - https://your.wellington.vic.gov.au/domestic-animal-management-plan-review - and came across this interesting tidbit... Heads up to any of our breeder members here who might be targeted for council visits (or worse) if you live in that shire and advertise any of your pups on this site. T.

I just installed a livestock style electric fence around the chicken coop. After one encounter and about 6 months I removed the fence. My chicken killer was no longer interested in chickens, and I could allow the chooks to wander free.

It sounds as if you’re doing all the right things. With my high-drive Brittany, I’ve found that management is the best long-term option. I compete with her in multiple dog sports and the daily training undoubtedly helps shift her focus to her work, to the point where she was able to complete a 25 metre sendaway then turn and sit, despite a flock of wood-ducks flying in to land about 20 metres beyond her target point. However, when she’s in the yard and the chickens are free-ranging in the paddock, her focus on them is still intense. Fenzi is running a course soon on high prey-drive dogs. In my experience, Fenzi courses are expensive but generally worth the money and I’m planning to enrol in this one at Bronze - I.e. audit it. That will allow me to read the lectures, see the videos submitted by actively participating students and read the instructor’s commentary on their videos. https://www.fenzidogsportsacademy.com/index.php/courses/42730

Vaccinations might cost a bit, but treatment for Parvo (or even euthanasia) is much more expensive... Maybe vets could be more active in advising that there is a vaccination for Parvo alone if owners are too cash strapped to go the full C3 or C5 vaccinations - at least they'd be covered for the more prevalent of the 3 killer diseases in dogs. Distemper and Hepatitis are around, but definitely much rarer in domestic dogs that don't come into contact with wild animals or their scat. T.

https://www.abc.net.au/news/2025-08-27/deadly-dog-disease-parvovirus-rife-in-west-kimberley/105647182

A friend who lives at Boonah saw it too and is going to find out about her doggo attending. If she posts anything about it I'll ask if I can share here.

Hi everyone, I'm hoping to draw on the collective wisdom of the experienced trainers here for a new challenge I'm facing. Some of you might have seen my other post about our Kelpie, Pip, where we had great success using disengagement games to create a peaceful backyard. Well, it seems I'm getting a masterclass in how different dogs truly are! We also have a young Border Collie, Finn, and what worked for Pip is not even making a dent with him. He's a whole different ball game, and I've hit a bit of a wall. The Problem: Finn's interest in our chickens isn't like Pip's herding curiosity; it's a quiet, intense, and unwavering prey drive. When he sees them, his world shrinks. He drops into a low stalk, his body goes rigid, and he becomes completely deaf to commands. It's a classic, hard-wired fixation that feels much more predatory than the herding instinct I'm used to managing. As always, the chickens' safety is my number one priority. They have a fortress of a coop and run, and Finn is never unsupervised when they're in the yard. My goal is to help him learn to relax and manage his own state of mind for his own well-being. What I'm Trying (and Why It's Not Enough): I've been applying the same principles that worked with Pip, but the results are vastly different. Management: The physical barriers are all in place, including a visual block on the fence line. This is non-negotiable. "Leave It": His "leave it" is solid with toys and food, but it's powerless against the primal pull of the chickens. Rewarding Disengagement: This is the biggest difference. The "look away game" that was so effective for Pip is failing with Finn. He is physically incapable of looking away. He will strain against the leash to maintain eye contact, and there's no opportunity to reward a better choice because he simply won't make one. Exercise & Enrichment: He gets a ton of both physical and mental work every day, so I'm confident this isn't a case of simple boredom. Where I'm Stuck & My Question: I've learned that a herding drive and a prey drive can look similar but feel worlds apart to train. I need a new strategy for breaking through this intense, instinctual focus when my usual methods can't get a foot in the door. Does anyone have experience with training exercises specifically for a high-arousal prey drive, as opposed to a herding drive? I'm looking for ways to help him self-regulate when his instincts are screaming at him. Are there different impulse control games or desensitization protocols that are more effective for this specific mindset? I'm all ears and ready to put in the work. It's humbling to realize that what works for one dog can be completely ineffective for another! Thanks in advance for any advice.