kymbo

Have you thought about buying the next stage up ( 10 - 25 kg) and splitting the amputole in half? Usually it is only a few dollars more for it, and you will be getting twice as many treatments....

HAHAHA Greytmate, I was just going to pm you when I saw the furmy might be for sale, but you beat me to it!!!

Lots of luck! I tried everything with the first pap, and he just grew out of it basically....but then the new puppy came and it is all starting again AAUUGGH I even caught the older one trying to bury the pup!!! That's about when I just gave up and hope the pup grows out of it too

Thanks for the imput and link...both have settled with no need to give anything, and the wasp nest is RIP. Both are back to normal ...look at poor frodos eyes though...they are normal now, but at the time they were watering like anything and swollen kinda normally they are like this VVVV

My dogs have been attacked by wasps ( paper wasps) on their faces and possibly the pups front legs as well ( papillons) I am sure I have read here that you can give dogs polaramine, so I googled and found a site with the dosage rate etc, and a lot of other sites also that support giving polaramine. I was concerned about the pups age though ( 8 weeks) so I also rang my vet about what to give if anything, and she said that polaramine is not recognised for dogs so they cant recommend it. My main concern was a reaction/ swelling that compramised their airways. The vet said it was rare, and if it was going to happen, it would within 30- 60 mins. I have decided just to watch the dogs for the moment and the vet is on standby for the next hour knowing I might come in if neccessary. They have both settled down now, and the tears have all stopped ( they were crying rivers ), and the yelping and running away because of hurties has also stopped. Can anyone tell me if their vets have recommended Polaramine? I would like to know if they have, just for my own information, as I was sure someone here uses Polaramine for their dogs. This is the site I was looking at : http://www.ingleburnvet.com.au/antihistamines.htm

http://www.vetnpetdirect.com.au/product.ph...at=0&page=1 $54.50 for 100 tabs/ $38.55 for 50 tabs at vet n pet and $4.95 postage

I will try the vics on the electrical cords...they are what I am more worried about as I can't move them I have now put all stuff up, and there is a toy basket that my kids glare at " we never had that many toys when WE were kids" If I see him with something wrong, I am saying no and replacing with a toy or distract etc... Thanks for starting this thread, Kingsleychi...it has given me a few more ideas. My last pup wasn't a chewer at all ( bar the time he killed my massage chair control and saved me from the killer thong)

*watches thread with bated breath, holding chewed book and wearing socks with holes AAUUGHHH

Showdog, thank you for a totally different perspective that what I was thinking!! I have really thought about your reply, and you are right; the most important thing is that he fits in with the dogs here. I think I was just a bit miffed as not being as 'important' to him as the other dogs. He is a confident little fellow; probably more confident that my other pap at the same age. I am sure as he gets older, things will pan out, as you said. Again, thank you for the reassurance

I have an old dog, and an 18 month old pap, and have just introduced a new puppy( 8 weeks) to the house hold, also a pap. I am finding it hard to get the puppy to socialize with the humans of the household. He leaves the old dog alone mostly, but plays constantly with the pap. He is very happy to see me when he first gets up in the morning, or if I have to get him up to toilet him in the night ( he is crated) but that is about it. I am even finding it hard to get him to recognise his name; he seems to be totally disinterested :/ in learning to come, or even wanting to come. He also is happy to see my daughter when she comes home from work. My other pap was nothing like this at all, and was very human orientated from point dot; maybe because there was no other dog to play with( the old dog just growled at him mostly when he was an annoying pup) Even if he is playing etc now, I can still call him and he comes immeadiately and is happy for some attention etc. and will then go back to what he was doing. I really don't want to lock the other pap away from the pup, tho I do this a few times a day when trying to get the pup to interact with me and learn his name and the start of the 'come' command etc, but I am wondering if this is an option for a week just to get the puppy to interact with humans constantly, without the distraction of something a hell of a lot more interesting... He is a very friendly pup, not scared or timid, and plays quite boisterously. Where he came from has numerous dogs and also his litter mates, that he played with constantly, probably more so that with the human breeder as such. Any ideas to what is happening? I am at a loss

.....It is what I should have taught my dog instead of finding out a year later when I had to keep my I-am-sure-he-runs-on-energizer-batteries-pap 'quiet' for a while due to neck injury..AAUUGGHHH

Personally, I would be rewarding her before she gets to the jumping stage' ie after a few steps. I think your pup needs to build up confidence, so lots of praise at the apprioperate time My pap was a little like that, and he is very toy driven ( and food haha) so I threw the toy when he was on the leash, and just tagged along with him to get the toy, but with him at my side. He got the idea pretty quickly, but I have no idea if doing it this way sets up bad behaviour in the long run for obedience etc. I have no trouble now with him walking at heal, but I don't do anything 'officially' I just take the dog for a walk as such...

no problems Persophone...hey how small of a puppy? The packet says 7 weeks, but I was reading a vet site ( aussie, but can't remember what one) and they said advantage was safe from TWO days!! I haven't heard that anywhere, and meant to ask the vet this morning when I was there and I forgot cause they were really busy....

I was tearing my hair out with stick fast fleas, and actually rang Bayer for a bleat. They sent me a goodie pack of all different products to try on the animals. One thing that did work a treat ( under their guidance) was to put a drop of advantage on every chook, just behind the wattle. Do not eat the eggs for a week. I found that all the fleas just shrivelled up and eventually fell off, and they stayed clear for ages. All the chooks lived and are fine. Bayer said that they have done testing on chickens but it just isn't viable as a method of control in flocks. It also seems to knock the flea population for a six over time, and I had tried spraying woth everything. The DPI said their eggs etc can stay in the ground and in wood for 10 years !!! And the only sure way is to burn the coop where it stands. I use advantage for the dogs and cat, and it kills the stickfast fleas, tho sometimes I pull them off if I see them ( they would be in the process of dying tho) A little vasoline around the edges of the ears keep the blighters from hooking in, and I just check between the pads of their feet, the testicles ( if they have them) and around the eyes, and armpits. Chook Scaley leg and mites are easily controlled by ONE application of pour on cattle wormer ( ivermectin) One or two drops on the skin at the base of the neck is what the vet told me when I had a rooster covered really bad with scaley leg. So much easier than sump oil It took 4 weeks for the legs to be totally normal again, from one application.

That works out to be $13 a tube... You can buy the medium advantage ( 6 pack) from pricelesspets online for $48.90 inc post of 5.90 ( so that is 8.15 per dose) or from petproductsontheweb for $45.90 inc post (6 pack- so that is 7.65 per tube) or their 4 pack for $35.50 inc post( 8.87 per tube) Pricelesspets is very quick with post. I ordered tuesday, and received wednesday * edited to add that advantage for my dogs lasts about 2 months, longer in winter

I have a 16 month old pap and a 10kg adult x and the vet recommended Brisket bones, as they are soft enough to be eaten, and hard enough still to do some good for the teeth. I have always taken stuff away from my dogs as pups, bones and toys etc. The pap is not vicious or anything, but it was SO funny as when I went to take a bone away, he kinda lays on it and suctions down onto the floor. How he does it I have no idea, as he also seems to weigh 10 kg when you are trying to pry him off it He is heaps better now and doesn't even try that, but that is what he did when I first started taking bones off him.

Commonly called "slap face" When my 6 week pup got sick years ago, the vet said that he 'thought; it was parvo, but would have to send blood? away and the results took 3 days to confirm. We put the pup on a drip, as that would be the treatment anyway if it was parvo and to buy some time to see what else it could be. The pup was comatose and in a real bad way. Ended up being a really really bad worm burden that perforated the bowel.

My blokes eye looks almost the same as this, no discharge, but the vet said that he had some weird infection. He also has a red conjunctiva; if you pull the bottom lid down, is it red, or the top lid up and out?? Mine is a PRA dog tho and has a multitude of eye problems, but I only noticed the inner eye lid thing when his actual eyeball swelled a little. If it doesn't settle in a day or if the dog acts in pain, I would go to the vet just to be sure.

Thanks for the replies guys!!! Very helpful!! kmart or petbarn is a hike, but it is good for a trip out

BEWDY!!! I will try there. How big are they roughly?

Do the puppy pads have a waterproof backing so they don't leak? I can't see it just sitting on the laundry floor and not blowing around, iykwim. I was wondering about the lip of the cat litter tray being a problem as well. I found one on ebay, but it is pick up only . It is more of a flattish tray with a really slight lip, but I can't seem to find these new anywhere. Oh well thanks for the hints and I will keep looking

I am thinking of trying those holders/ tray that you put the wee pads in, to toilet train a puppy( pap). I have never tried them before; last time I just used news paper, and took the pup outside a lot. But we had lots of accidents on the carpet and I am trying to avoid this this time, and news paprer is messy. We have steps and screen doors, and this was the problem last time I think, so I was thinking that while quite young, if I could get him to use a tray in the laundry, it might save a few mishaps... Anyone tried them? And is there a brand to avoid? I have looked at a few places on line, but can't find a tray, only a holder, which I presume is just a frame to clamp a pad flat? Any ideas? Do people just use cat litter trays? TIA Kym

Can you please explain more on this. Leanne It cuts the coat - not suitable for show dogs The site says it doesn't cut the coat though, just removes the undercoat by pulling it out. I used one on my terrier x poodle and it got heaps of under coat out, and his top layer is still seems the same? Maybe I am not as observant as a showy, but it truely seems the same. For the person with the cat ^^ my daughter contacted a seller, and they said the only difference between the cat one and the small dog one was the colour of the handle. Out of interest, she got half a pillow case full of cat hair off of one short haired small moggy, and says there is heaps less on her clothes/ furniture etc.

Thankyou