huski

Hey Diablo/Rex/whatever - I thought it was you

Well I still want beagles! And I think it will be fun to start off on the right foot from eight weeks instead of two years (when I started doing TID with Daisy). I think Daisy could have been a way better dog. But yeah it would be great to have a high drive dog too

Malsrock, will really just depend on where I'm living and my situation, I may need to go with a smaller dog like another beagle, and then get a GSD once I've moved to a house with a bigger yard. But a working dog is definitely on the cards for some point

Sorry to hear that sas Honestly, bloody trialling, don't know why we do it!

LOL Malsrock I am in fact thinking about a working line GSD

Nice vid SK! Love seeing the more uncommon breeds doing well Just goes to prove you don't need a high drive working breed to train in drive

Will you be staying at the same place you were last time Ptolomy? Yep, freaking out more than the 1st time! I need to stop because the 1st time I stuffed Dante up so much by freaking out! I really need this pass now as he's about to go onto medication for the next 6 weeks that could make him woozy...but oh well, as they say....there's always another trial. I'm sure you guys will do really well Isn't it amazing the effects our behaviour can have on our dogs?

Sas, is this the last pass you need for your title??? Woohoo - good luck :D

Totally agree Especially with the final sentence. Using separate commands for training and around the house is definitely something I will be doing with my next dog too. I also don't like when other people (i.e. family) use my obedience commands but stuff them up etc. :laugh: Thanks :D

Good, then I don't have to say the obvious. Yes, the obvious being that it's downright scary you'd be happy to let your dog bite someone repeatedly and think it was ok

Totally agree Nek.

I would say that Kuma is smart enough to pick up the real emotions under the surface. Are you SERIOUS? It's ok for a large breed dog to bite someone repeatedly despite the owner's commands to stop?? God, MM, I wouldn't want to be a guest in your house

LOL SA! I don't know about spectacular, but there is certainly a visible difference in her. This is the only before vid I had, this was the best level of work I could get out of her, and this was in a very low distraction environment; I wish I had a before vid that showed her at training and how bad she was there! Oh well! After vid... I have a heap, but here's the most recent http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EirXW2xt52Q

Wow great work - love this one!

Malsrock, there is no drive to chase skateboards or bite postmen, that's usually prey drive, and the dog has learnt those actions satisfy its drive. My dog has a pretty considerable scent drive, but I learnt to harness it and use it in another outlet (food drive). My dog used to be almost completely unresponsive to me in class settings. It's not uncommon that a dog will be drivey for food/toys at home but not in higher levels of distraction. My dog is far from mellow and I used to be able to shove steak under her nose and she wouldn't even notice it was there. I now work her reliably and successfully in food drive. Correcting her for scenting only taught her two things: 1) That switching off in training and ignoring me in favour of scenting was more rewarding than anything I had to offer (so the best way to satisfy her drive was to scent) 2) I would punish her for going into drive, which took a fair bit of work to undo when I wanted to start training her IN drive I can work her in food drive around just about any level of distraction, reliably, it doesn't matter if there are fifty dogs around us doing classes, or very enticing scents on the ground, what I have is better than all of those things. Often higher drive dogs don't do well in class settings, because you are asking them to work out of drive. Teaching them not to go into drive by correcting them with any kind of collar or method is not how I would prefer to train them, because I don't think it gives the best result or reliability, but that's JMO Also... rewarding with toys and food are different to working in prey or food drive.

That trophy is ridiculously massive! This is so not the direction I imagined this thread turning

Daisy only has one trophy so far (ok, one trophy and a plaque), but she looks less than impressed with it in the pic I have of her sitting next to it :D Probably because it's only third place (and no quallie - had she got the quallie, it would have been a first place, bloody dogs)

LOL Steve! Just clone yourself. Problem solved. hehe

Ness is a clever girl I like my wine idea ETA: At least if I was drunk I'd have an excuse for not walking in a straight line :D

I may be biased, but I think my dog is pretty awesome :D Could be awesome-er if her handle could get herself together on a more reliable basis though :laugh: I think I am going to start taking large quantities of wine to trials

Or it can be something big and glaringly obvious, like the way the handler freaks out just before going into the ring and makes all kinds of silly handling mistakes that compromise the trigger. And is visibly shaking when the judge tries to shake their hand. Not that I ever do any of those things. :D

Skye I'm curious, you say your dog is high drive but is not interested in rewards, what do you do to use the drive the dog has? I train in food drive which means if I want the level of drive and reliability I desire I need to have food so I can reward with it, but obviously my dog can work without seeing food or without me luring her at all otherwise we couldn't compete in obedience. Training my dog on a check chain did nothing except teach her to switch off in training... there is a huge difference between food exchange and actually getting a dog to work in food drive. There is no way I could have gotten the level of reliability/drive I can now get out of my dog using 'the choke chain method' and not using drive. Sounds familiar :D

We have those trigger words too :D My older GSD will go out into the garage and sit by the car with a rattle of the keys, I know what you mean. Fiona K9: This is actually called a concomitant cue, something the dog has built in to help him predict reward that we dont always have control of... Steve, when you say, a reward we don't always have control of, do you mean, it's something that we unknowingly/unintentionally did to teach the dog a reward they value might be coming? i.e. when a dog gets excited by rattling keys because they think it means a trip in the car, even though they don't necessarily get to go in the car every time they hear the keys rattle?

Malsrock, it's easy to train the dog to respond to a trigger word or phase instead of using the sight of food/toys as the trigger. Think of dogs who flip out when they hear you call out 'dinner!' or jingle the car keys or like in my house... put my runners on

How odd Cutest damn puppy Dribs. I just want to smoosh him :D