Keshwar

The club where I instruct has mostly done away with heeling at the lower levels. The focus is more on loose lead walking. The theory being that that is what most people who turn up to a dog club want. They want a dog that they can walk nicely, who won't jump on people and will play nicely. I really like this change of focus as it does away with the boring paddock bashing and means instructors can have a bit more fun in classes. When I can I take my young girl to classes. Like Jules I'm not afraid to do my own thing and most of the other instructors are happy for me to do this. Bear.

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This sounds like a really interesting program. Could save a lot of grief. http://www.dogsandstorks.com/ Heard about on Regarding Rover podcast.

Check out: http://www.amazon.com/Through-Dogs-Ear-Can..._ys_home_shvl_6 Music 'specially for dogs.

Remember that it is FUN, there are no sheep stations up for grabs. If you go into the ring thinking this you will do fine. Only other thing is listen to what the judge says and do what they tell you to do. However, if you do make a mistake it is not the end of the world, just keep going. For a number of trials I consistently did the opposite turn to what the judge asked. eg Judge said left turn I did a right or vice versa. The judge can usually adapt. Good luck.

If you are going to use a clicker I'd simply click and reward every time the pup looks at me. Then I'd put a cue on the behaviour, "watching, "look" etc. To encourage the pup to look I hold a reward infront of my face. When the pup will reliably look I then move the reward out to the side, so the pup only gets the reward when making eye contact. Then to increase duration I'd increase the time between the click and the reward. As with all training only move on to the next phase when the current level is reliable. Bear.

I would get pup used to lead and collar. Play focus games with pup - even when not on lead. With pup on-lead mark and reward when pup is in the position you want. Intially I would keep sessions very short. Slowly build duration. All of this really depends on what you are training for. If you are training to eventually trial then the positioning needs to be precise. If you are simply training a pup to walk nicely on lead then precision isn't really required. When I walkk my dogs on lead I do not insist they be in a set position. My criteria are thay can be anywhere around me to the end of the lead. To the end of the lead is not pulling. I can usually walk my dogs - Afghan Hounds - holding the lead on one finger. For me walks are relaxion and exercise for the dogs. They can sniff and explore, within the above constraints, but most move on when asked to. Bear.

This book explains it all really well. http://www.amazon.com/Excel-Erated-Learnin...mp;sr=1-1-spell

Another relevant gem from Dog star daily Can't We (Trainers) All Just Get Along? August 31st, 2009 by Nicole Wilde “Cookie-slinging weenies!” “Punishment trainers!” “Posi-Nazis!” “Jerk trainers!” Know what these epithets have in common? For one thing, they’ve all been slung around the internet with the intention of disparaging other trainers. They also all show the ignorance of the person spewing them. In a way, the training landscape is a lot like the political one. There are those who are far to the right and those to the far left, with the majority of folks falling somewhere in between. At one extreme end of the training spectrum there are those who use punishments like helicoptering and hanging—abuse, not training, to any ethical trainer’s mind. There are also trainers closer to this end of the spectrum who teach new behaviors by letting dogs make mistakes, then reprimanding by jerking them roughly (or some by shocking with e-collars). Far at the other end, there are trainers who use treats to train new behaviors but have no concept of how to fade those treats out, so that dogs are forever dependent on food to perform—in other words, treats are used as bribes. There are also trainers closer to this end who would have no idea what to do if, for example, an aggressive dog wasn’t responding to treats. Never mind that both of these extremes do not represent the majority of trainers; in this swamp of murky understanding, misconceptions breed. So if not extremists, what type of trainers form the middle ground? Some consider themselves “balanced” in that rewards are used, as well as what the trainer would consider fair corrections if needed. Others call themselves “positive trainers,” which is generally used to indicate those who train with treats and primarily use positive reinforcement. I’ve seen a wide range of techniques and skill levels from both camps. I’ve also seen alarming levels of intolerance toward trainers who are different, from both sides. I have observed online people being vilified for the way others assume they train, without anyone ever having even had an actual conversation with the person, never mind seeing them work with a dog. Regardless of where we fall on the spectrum, the vast majority of us truly care about dogs. If you believe your methods are the right way to achieve better-trained, happy fur-kids, but all you offer is hostility to those who believe otherwise, you’ll never change anyone’s mind. If you engage in a respectful dialogue, though, you never know—you both might come away with a better understanding of how “the other side” thinks and feels, and one or both of you might even learn something. It might shock you (no pun intended) to learn that I am friends with people who use pinch collars and even (albeit very infrequently) e-collars. Are these tools my personal choice? No. Does it mean that because the person uses them that he or she is a terrible person? Of course not. It’s a given that we all feel most comfortable with those who are like us. But in my opinion it takes a bigger person to have a respectful dialogue with someone who is different than to hang around only with those like him or herself, patting each other on the back and talking trash behind the backs of others. I’ve noticed that rude, condescending comments about “those other trainers” abound online, where confrontation is limited to a screen that doesn’t talk back. I’d bet you a bagful of dog biscuits most people who post those comments wouldn’t dare make them to the person’s face. And we’ve all seen those same people posting over and over on blog sites that are obviously dedicated to a specific style of training, whether it be mostly positive or more balanced, slamming the author of the blog, or taking text out of context in order to start an argument. Why is it so hard to have a simple conversation? Dog training is not a licensed profession, and no one knows what the future may hold. We want the public to perceive trainers in a professional light, yet many times trainers themselves show a real lack of professionalism when they speak badly of other trainers to clients and colleagues. The world has enough negativity without those who are in a profession based on a love of animals contributing more. Can’t we all just get along?

By this (bolded bit) do you mean in the heel position? I wouldn't try this at all with a puppy that has never been on a lead. First up I would make sure that having the lead and collar on are a fun experience and then work on getting the puppy to pay attention to you. This should eliminate pulling. Personally when I walk my dogs on a lead I very rarely have them in a heel position. Bear.

From the top of the article: A Balancing Act August 21st, 2009 by Erica Houck Young

This article on balance is from my favourite online training resource http://www.dogstardaily.com/ A Balancing Act August 21st, 2009 by Erica Houck Young Lately, I have heard many people toss around the phrase “balanced trainer”. Some of the people behind this phrase incorporate both reward-based and aversion-based methods to train dogs. Many use reward-based training with puppies, but are heavy handed and forceful with adult dogs – as if the emotional needs of each are different even though they are both dogs. I disagree with this definition of a ‘balanced trainer’. You cannot have your cake and eat it too –there is no balance in choking an adult GSD during one session followed by using lure-reward training with a 12 week old beagle. The entire picture of your philosophy is in question here. To say you are “balanced” after that is just an act of illusion. Either you are a positive, reward-based trainer or you aren’t. To me, a ‘balanced trainer’ is actually one that incorporates the many methods of humane, scientifically-based dog training along with a boatload of empathy for both the dog and the owner. It is extremely difficult to feel immense empathy for a suffering dog and still be able to function in the way that is needed in order to help rehabilitate the dog and the owner. As a dog owner and trainer, I struggle with feeling sorry for my reactive ACD while utilizing my training education in order to help him during those moments where he seems to be drowning. The balance needed is not as easy as it appears to be in theory. Let’s not beat around the bush -- the application of something unpleasant for a dog that he will work to avoid is an aversive. Included in this list are things like water spray bottles, citronella collars, the infamous bitter apple spray, along with the other usual suspects involving pain, choke, shock, and startle. Many will argue the semantics of what constitutes hurting a dog, bringing forth the old “high pain tolerance” and old-school “dogs are just animals” justifications. True, they are animals, but so are we and pain tolerance is really an irrelevant point. What about being JUST in the grand scheme of things and doing right by the emotions of the dog? I have also read (and reread)a few opinion-based articles trashing positive, reward-based trainers while portraying them in the same light as Desperate Housewives tossing cookies. Pot-shots negating their gender, experience, knowledge of other methods, and dog ownership were among the listed traits of these “weak” professionals. I, for one, do not believe for an instant that competing in agility, walking my dog on a harness, or focusing on puppy classes makes anyone a weaker or lesser dog trainer than another. Everyone has a forte, be it aggressive dogs, new puppy classes, or housetraining issues. I don’t know of any positive, reward-based trainer that isn’t acutely aware of the use and effect of aversive equipment, either. To say we “do not understand” or are “ignorant” of these tools and methods is to point one finger at us and four back at oneself. We have done the research and voted in favor of using safe, humane techniques that are fun and effective for both dog and owner. I had the pleasure of meeting a dog trainer a few months ago at a seminar who almost solely takes housetraining clients and has overflowing amounts of business offering board and train for these dogs in her home. How genius is that??? I think she may even be a BETTER dog trainer for her bulls-eye focus on her strengths. She is also obviously a fantastic marketing and businesswoman. So, regardless of whether you wrestle aggression cases or play with puppies all day, if you are choking, startling, shocking, tapping or otherwise causing physical discomfort or mental anguish to any dog in the name of training do not, by any means, call yourself "balanced". Own up to what you do and save the term “balanced” for those of us who truly are. NOTE: I do not necessarily agree or disagree with everything written in this article.

I would have a second ball or a high value reward. When she comes back with the first ball show her the second/reward but only give it to her when she has dropped the ball at your feet. Bear.

For Faxon they are something that needs serious investigation. They are more important than anything else we are supposed to be doing heeling, recall, etc. However this is only when we are in the ring trialling. If he sees them when we are practicing he totally ignores them! Bear

I would like to see retrieving as an optional exercise in the higher levels. Not sure what the other options should be tho'. Bear.

How stressed are you at the trials? Get someone to video you practicing the sit stay at home or club and then at a trial. Check your body language to see if it is different at the trial. Also when you practise don't always do the down stay directly after the sit stay. Break them up so a pattern is being formed - sit stay immediately followed by down stay. Bear.

1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc) Have had a number of Afghan Hounds. Got my first as a rescue back in the early 80's, Currently have 2 - An adult desexed dog (Faxon, 6 years), and a 12 month puppy bitch (Chloe) 2. Where and why was the breed first developed? The breed was developed in Afghanistan - hence the name. Unfortunately there is no written or pictorial evidence of the breed before the 19th Century, the first definitive image of an Afghan Hound is in a portrait of Meenah of Jajurh. This is mainly due to religious reasons - people from this area are Muslim and Islam forbids the portrayal of dogs. Also the region's history is full of conflict and conquest so a lot of archeological resources have been destroyed. The breed was originally developed to hunt - mostly small game - hare, foxes, deer etc. There are stories of them bringing down wolves and snow leopards but this would be as a pack rather than individuals. Initially when imported to England there were two distinct types. The Bell-Murray type were from Southern Afghanistan. These were larger and had less coat. The Amps type were from Northern Afghanistan. These were smaller and more compact with a heavier coat. The two types were named after the people who imported them - Major and Mrs Bell-Murray and Mr and Mrs Amps. Perhaps the most famous early Afghan Hound in the UK was Zardin, imported into England by Captain John Barff. Zardin went on to become the basis of the Afghan Hound Standard. Eventually the types were interbred to give us the Afghan Hound we see today. 3. How common is it in Australia? Probably more common than most people realise but certainly a lot less common than the peak of their popularity back in the seventies. 4. What is the average lifespan? On average about 15 years. 5. What is the general temperament/personality? Temperament has improved over the years. The Afghan hound had a reputation of having a difficult temperament but with good breeding this is no longer the case. However, do not expect an Afghan Hound to race up and greet a stranger like a long lost friend. To the outside world an Afghan Hound will appear aloof and a bit standoffish. This shouldn't be taken for shyness. With their people Afghan Hounds can be clownish, naughty or cheeky. They are also very accomplished thieves. 6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult? A good run in a fenced area twice a day would be ideal. However, if this isn't possible a long walk - at least 45 min - twice a day with access to a free run area weekly will suffice. The rest of the time they are happy taking up their rightful position on the best chair/couch in the house. 7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with? No. Apart from the exercise requirements and the personality/temperament there is that coat that the Afghan Hound is famous for. This coat is a massive undertaking, requiring at least weekly grooming of approx 1-2 hours. These are not a dog that you can throw in the bath or shower to bath them, you need the proper equipment to get that coat clean. You will then need a decent dryer to get the coat dry and matt free. 8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods? Yes, but be prepared to lose shoes, underwear, any food left laying around. They will occupy themselves but probably at your expense. 9. How much grooming is required? See above. 10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)? Yes. An Afghan Hound can get up to full speed in a remarkably small area. If they are focused on chasing something then they have tunnel vision and are prone to knock over anything/one that gets in their way. 11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of? HD, Thyroid problems and autoimmune disease are known in the breed. 12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be) Unfortunately there are no breed specific tests for the Afghan Hound at this point. Puppy buyers should ask the standard questions regarding parents and should be able to see at least one of the parents. AI is becoming popular in the breed as is using dogs from interstate, so it may not be possible or practicable to see both parents. Puppy buyers should try to form a good relationship with the breeder they choose as there may be a wait for their puppy. Breeders of Afghan Hounds are not breeding as frequently these days.

I would suspect that most people who read the training Forums would have seen that link. However, I suspect that most hadn't seen the link I posted. I have to say I really wonder about the self promotion that goes on in this forum. From the Forum rules:

http://www.drsophiayin.com/dominance.php Dr. Yin’s credentials are here: http://www.askdryin.com/pdf/SYCV2008forWEb.pdf

This is the link to the 1st in a series of articles on safe lure coursing just click on the next installment link on the bottom of each page. Fascinating reading. http://bellsouthpwp.net/d/d/ddoggone/Homep.../1-rabbits.html

Types of Shows: All Breeds Championship shows - Any Breed may be entered in the correct group, class etc. Points are awarded for Dog and Bitch challenge, Best of Breed (BOB), Best in Group (BIG), Best in Show (BIS) Group Shows Championship Show - Only breeds of the particular group ie Toys (Group 1), Terriers (Group 2), Gundogs (Group 3), Hounds (Group 4), Working dogs (Group 5), Utility (Group 6), or Non-sporting (Group 7). Points are awarded to Dog and Bitch Challenge, BOB and BIS Breed Specialty Championship Show - Only the specified breed may enter ie Afghan Hounds, Border Collie, Pug etc. Points are awarded to Dog and Bitch Challenge and BIS. Open shows - same as above but no points are awarded. Hopefully this is clear. ;)

Hey Hotdoggy, Generally for Junior Handlers there is no "official" entry. They announce at the show when Junior handlers is going to be on (usually in the lunch break) and which rings for the different age groups. Thought I would also let you know that there is show training at EPIC in Canberra on Wednesday nights - around 7.00 - 7.30pm. This is run by experienced handlers who can show what to do in the ring. Bear.

Like others have said, depends on dog. Also depends on the situation. I tend to use sin binning on over stimulated dogs. Basically a time out so they have a chance to calm down and start using their brain again. Bear.

Just a thought. When you have her off lead are you continually looking down/back to see where she is? I know I developed this behaviour with the result of Faxon lagging further behind. My body language - left shoulder moving back when I looked - was queing the lagging. Bear.

Why not use your left hand for your signals? I do. As I'm a lefty it is way easier for me to use my left hand for all signals. The bonus is that your left hand is usually right in front of your dog so you don't have to twist your body to complete a signal. I think the main reason that people tell you to use your right hand is that they are right handed. Bear.