persephone

Poor Daisy ! They may well have shut off drainage options or something when they operated .... I hope they can reverse it without too many problems.

Must admit- I did wonder if this might be the case , being rural .... those things are deadly! Hope the poor little thing has had her injuries treated in case of infection.

I never cut any bony feed . The larger the better - more chewing,more time .... Glad your pup's ok

We have working sheepdogs..and they pant like crazy!! For sure if they are using 'eye' they concentrate for a short time and remain still.. but it's only a very short time .

I would not be content with a 'blood test' diagnosis .... and would be looking at a specialist/vet hospital, where they can do more specific testing . heart/lungs/blood glucose levels... all sorts of things need checking. What did the dog's breeder say? Is there anything like it in any other litters, or siblings?

My lens is just my super macro function on my point&shoot fuji finepix

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g389/C...y/Misc/lips.jpg ;) lovely!

LOL!! We always have a shoving contest here if there are bucketed mice !! The dogs LOVE any opportunity . had to laugh at your description, Gayle

What a wonderful parroty owner you are Well done!!

I would much prefer my dogs to pee ON LEAD .... but on command . Leash relieving is just THE most useful thing When ill, when travelling, when at someone's house,when in an area not fenced,when you need a urine/faecal sample... etc etc. I find toilet on command a necessary ;) Of course, the dog can relieve himself whenever he wants when outside ..but before a trip, whilst walking, when travelling.. it is just SO nice to be able to clip on a lead... go to one spot, give a command, and allow the dog to toilet .

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n139/lu...m4/IMG_0144.jpg Love this one ,peeking out

I think..if you take Oscar back to the vets just for treats/a weigh-in ..and YOU DON'T SHOW FEAR/ANXIETY then you'll soon see Most of it will be what he picks up from you. If he was so groggy.. then any memory will be a very hazy one .... The more you churn it around in your head.. the more vibes you send the dog. My old dog used to hate the vets.. his teeth would chatter. I just totally ignored him.. and he was made to walk in & out with no fuss/acknowledgement. he didn't like it, but he did it.

Regardless of a report being lodged.. I hope the dog gets pain relief/antibiotics..or they could have a VERY ill dog on their hands. I suggest take it to the vet and if the vet wants to take it further--- then it's out of the owner's hands.

I suggest you prepare a strategy for what you'll do next time something happens you're not happy with. You can't change what happened. You can change your vet if you choose to do so. You can also change what you do in future when something happens you're unhappy with. As owners we are responsible for protecting the welfare of our dogs. My suggestion is that you channel this experience to produce a more positive result if there is ever a next time. You don't have to be confrontational.. a simple "he'll do it for me" and taking the lead would do. These things are always best dealt with at the time. But to answer the question. "Rough" handling isn't common in my experience. Not taking any shite from dogs, and the use of mild compulsion to achieve results is. Few professional veterinary practices I know have the time to bother about luring reluctant dogs into accepting procedures. Ditto groomers. If your dog put the brakes on, I'd not be surprised to see him towed onto the scales. Does he go on freely for you? If not, it might be something to work on. I'd also make a point of knowing what he weighs. The scales are the normal first point of call for dogs and owners entering my vet's surgery on every visit. With the amount of time some owners take to get their dogs on the scales and stable, I can understand why a vet might take a more direct approach. The more prepared your dog is for handling and normal procedures, the easier it is for the dog and the vet. Our club actually teaches a 'steady' for handling and tolerance by the dog of handling all areas of the body including mouth and ears.

It is now down to your training- showing him that housetraining applies to other folks' houses..and that he is not 'top dog'- to claim territory.

I guess.... as long as she doesn't make the leap to the warm blooded feathery toys

Not sure if I agree with this just because someone has a pedigreed entire dog does not entitle them to start breeding....

We have a couple here who pant and shake ...I just put them to bed & leave 'em to it. No special treatment .One little bitch who used to sleep next to mum's room got frightened by a LOUD Clap of thunder one night.. and jumped thru the flyscreen into Mum's room. She sleeps in Mum's room now. Hamlet has only just started- at age 7. All our pups are encouraged to run/play when it's stormy .. most of them grow up not worrying , but some do, unfortunately.

..using lots of bird shapes,real feathers, bird noise making things may indeed set her up to be way too focussed on live birds ..and eager to feel those feathers in her mouth

agreed.

Using treats on a groggy,wobbly dog may not have worked well... but if your dog's very food oriented, then it's a good plan

he may have been 'rougher' than necessary .. or perhaps he and the dog were both a bit out of synch because of the post anaesthesia lack of co ordination etc of your dog...and things didn't work as planned . As said- if you are so unhappy - contact the clinic.

If she intends to do it , with registered and approved bitches,and so enable resulting pups able to be properly registered - wouldn't there be quite a bit of official paperwork and health certification etc ,involved?