Dogsfevr

All mine still hoover there food .With her its her poos.We know straight away & watch from there. Normally we just give a mild feed or there own as it isnt potent anyway.

My old american cocker has had colitis for all her life.She gets attacks every so often but lives a very normal life. If its a mild attack we dont change anything.If a stronger attack she goes on tribacterial.We also feed her apples & have found this to work a treat for her. We also give her Flora max tablets during her attacks to help to help her gut which again a great (chemist) I have owned other dogs who have had one off cases .some boarders have had attacks especially around major storms etc etc

"Yes this is a Vaccine reaction, and it should be reported ........" I wouldnt consider this a reaction but a case of either the dog moving or the injection point being poor. massage & keep an eye on it as occasionally they need draining. I have had 1 dog get this who is a needle phobic & moved which is why he ended up with the lump

Im not sure how old your kids are but maybe make up a chart with jobs they can do. ie making it sit,feed the dog,brush the dog ,joining you for activities,playing nicely,teaching to catch. When they have successfully completed a task you can buy a stamp(smiley face etc) & stamp a job done. maybe make it more fun for them to be involved & more responsible.Maybe if you can get the kids to achieve your hubby may feel the desire to be a better role model on there success.

The main key is exercise should combine body conditioning & mental stimulation. When there running wild there not learning respect,manners or etiquette.There learning that being wild is the accept behaviour preferred. Going on individual walks is all about "education & respect".Its a time where your in control. barkbusters are useless & cost money with rarely a good result. Basically get her to do jobs for reward,get her to use her brain. The key is you dont have to go overboard just doing simple things that keep the brain active really achieves so much.

AFter many years we have gone back to the Leberty.It really depends on the breeds,the way they want to dry . We have an oldfield & whilst its a great stand dryer once the hose is attached it drive me insane,The hose keeped melting & popping out.I also found it too powerful for my breeds coats. We did have a simpson which was great for the yanks but i like my hose.

Yep what sort of exercise is she getting,Did you attend obedience classes at all??

There are many tools out there to use & each person has there favourites what is comfy for one is bulky for another. The coat also factors into which tools best suit that individual dogs coat. We have about 20 stripping tools here & to be honest half there not used as there are other items that do a better job.(dr scholl stone etc). Personally i would touch base with your breeder & ask them what they would use for her coat,Each stripper is different so you could end up with an expensive collection of useless objects. I presume you got her from either Rita or Eva so they should be able to assist you before going on a buying spree.

The key is BOTH parties must meet half way. The children should not raz the pup up or encourage a game/ action that isnt wanted. The pup also need to be trained,if it has no idea of whats expected & correct behaviour it will have no clue as to whats right/wrong. I would highly suggest not tethering the dog .It will create many more unpleasant behaviours like barking.It can be the same as teasing when everyone is running around likea looney & the dog cant join i. Depending on the age of your children they need to be more involved in daily activiteis like feeding,training

So you buy one to bath smooth coats :rolleyes:

The fish or roo one??

"I will be supplying pictures as soon as I figure out how to post them!!!" LOL it has taken me over 12 months

Congrates i hope you enjoy new buddy. As for advertising commonsense tells people to advertise where people look. Whilst many breeders would prefer to avoid using some places the reality is this is where the average joe looks & you must make use of those places.

If you make a point of understanding the ingredients of the dry you used you may see certain ingredients that could ring alarm bells like wheat,corn,beef

What kibble where you using??

i say go to a dogshow & see all those dogs that are bathed weekly & maintance bathed daily in areas(pee feathers). 20 plus years of human shampoo & weekly bathing & no issues here. Just wish many of our clients put more effort into keeping there dogs clean

The key is dont push any interaction with a child.Things must be done slow & steady & that may mean a child walking past without any interaction. Also realize it could take a few months or longer for you dog to regain the trust it had. I do have to ask why didnt you walk away with Kaiser at that time?? Your dog showed clear signs of distress & you yelling at the child wouldnt have helped the situation,You need to be more pro active in situations & if you feel you dog is in harm or in a position to react you must remove the dog away safely . Also important to realize footy isnt always the best place for dogs

"A major variable when buying a puppy is that you do NOT know how the temperament of that dog will turn out. It is much easier to identify temperament issues with an older dog than a 6-8 week old puppy.' Actually this is incorrect as well. A good breeder does now the temps of there pups BUT the major influence on any pup,young dog or mature dog is the family it goes to & the way it is treated. Even the most stable dog can be transformed into a monster by new owners ,I have seen this happen many a time. If a mature dog has not be exposed to young children then most breeders would never place the dog or that family in a position where the dog is unable to cope/settle with the actions of young toddlers & as such will suggest a pup as it can grown up with the children & deal with there sounds,body language from day one & the right pup is match at that stage. "We recently had a GSP (german shorthaired pointer) that we have rehomed. It was very hard to let him go, but the reason was that he was not "kid safe". He was clumsy and did not have any sense of how big and how much force he had when he bumps into you" What you have said above is the classic reason .GSP are great around kids & trained correctly do very well .Im sure the dog is now in a better home

I think you actually need to contact breeders in your own state. Even if you buy in NSW you still have transport costs. The rate your going your cheaper pup wont work out cheaper & you will get more confused as to what your getting. There is no point buying a cheap puppy whose parents arent DNA for PRCD & you end up with ablind dog at 4 years or kidney issues

You need to focus on what health tests have been done. Microchip is compulsory in most states so thats no added bonus. There are many BYB breeders who are also registered .These people often have never shown or competed in any dog sports,some dont even groom there own dogs but send them to a salon. As much as you want a cheaper pup this dog should be around for the next 12 years & finding a breeder that is breeding for the betterment of the breed in both health & temperament is very important.

or one that charges 2 prices for male/female . As for the older dog i agree in some ways BUT many breeders dogs have been around children & this is an avenue i wouldnt right off. Contact all the breeders & see what they have.You will do a meet & greet anyway & would certainly get a good idea of how the pup will interact. I understand where that breeder was coming from as we dont have children & our dogs dont come in contact with young children so we are careful when rehoming older dogs,You must be .

Pasta also contains wheat so add that to the science diet & that could be a major factor. Is the dog skinny or is the pup a good growing weight for its age.Has it lost weight with you or maintained it. I would certainly contact the breeder to discuss the problem as they may have a good idea that will suit your pup. Dont mix the dry varieties.Its either one or the other.

Science diet contains wheat & corn.Beef is also known for causing bad skins & the runs. What diet did the breeder suggest?? I agree dont over feed in a rush or else you may have a case of the runs.

Well for starters whilst you will be paying $500 ad another $100 plus for air frieght & another $70 for crate hire.So infact you will be looking at $650/700 mark.. *If you now her prefix you can then phone the CCCQ to confirm she is registered. *Then ask for current eye clearances for both parents(DNA/optigen would be better)If they wont or arent willing to share run fast. *If the puppy isnt what you expected upon arrival will they refund you the money on return of the pup(you will pay for freight back) * Some breeder offer refunds once spayed ($100 etc ) Dont barter with price very few breeders will listen because there first reaction will be if you cant afford the price will you be able to afford the grooming bills. I would consider contacting the cocker club in Victoria & see if they have an rescues also some breeders may have older puppies for sale already spayed,trained etc etc at a lower price

You dont have a an account together??