Dogsfevr

Goodluck . Whilst healing you can try placing a hair roller on the end & wrapping it,even wrapping the end with vet wrap. The biggest problem is the constant bruising & damage.In our first show grey the damage in the end resulted in a few inches being removed. One of my setters many moons ago also damaged his tail but it was decided through our vet & ourselves to leave it as it wasnt causing him distress but the end was dead,black & in reality could have snapped off but it didnt.It no longer bleed so it was best he keeped damaging that area unless it was seen to cause him distress

We dont sye but do styling through to clip offs .We also specialize in breed specifics clips & handstripping (within reason)

Having said though your breeder may clip your pup up before leaving. We clip all our minis before they go to there homes so best to discuss what you want with your breeder. All our puppy owners get asked & it explained to them

It really depends on you & your dogs coat. The greater majority of std schnauzers have very breed true correct coats & are infact very easy to roll(not stripped out fully). If the pup does havea good coat & with some basic tools you could work on it & have the harsh coat & all the groomer needs to do is the feet,throat,bum & ears & a good strip through if they have the right tools. If you worked on the coat it would be 10 mins weekly. If your pup hasa soft coat then clip Your breeder should be able to inform you on your dogs coat . We clip some stds but most we actually roll there coats . When clipped most stds can still retain there harsh coat. When clipped though others will end up with a very soft top coat & it will lighten the colour. Clipping has no health effect on a schnauzer its purely what you want to do & the coat but stds often have very easy coats to work on. Infact we groomed our regular rolled coat std yesterday & all finished (feet etc etc) 1.5 hrs but the owners do the bulk of the work & we simpy do the finishing touches

"However, I would recommend getting as many matts out as possible yourself before heading to a groomer, I doubt any groomer would put in the same amount of time an owner would put in." Double coats does not mean knots & i would presume if you could have got the knots out yourself you wouldnt have seeked the service of a groomer in the first place. As for a groomer putting the same amount of time in where the ones who get the job BECAUSE the owners didnt put the time in. Getting knots out hurts like buggery & thats why the owners wont do it yet they expect there dogs to enjoy the experience

"Assuming the dog is in good condition, how do groomers feel about customers coming in with a written spec sheet of what they would like done to their dog? " We have many clients that do this & generally speaking we can find a happy medium,in other cases its impossible due to the dog having the incorrect coat texture to do the trim asked for. Some have no idea that what they would like & there dog arent on the same page BUT if explained to them why you cant most are very happy,some still insist & we will do that groom BUT again only after it has been throughly explained that the dog cannot look like that or the other obvious factor there showdog photos & there hairsprayed to get that final look. In some breeds its such specialized grooming that they also want the look without paying the price for it. The only ones that really annoy us are those that are convinced they now it all & tell you what blades to use. The worse was aperson who wanted the body done with a #40 well there was no way in gods earth we would use that blade for there .They had it all back to front & after a small demo they learnt a quick lesson but the scary part is there are so many clueless groomers out there who would actually take that advice seriously

But lets remember no owner is clueless.They brush there own hair every day because it will knot.They already have the excuses before they hand it over.They are fully aware of the dogs condition but the owners always start with "But". I do wish many breeders would show people the right tools to buy as many who start off have no clue & are brushing the dogs regularly but what there using would never do the job.We show people or we buy the gear for them & they pay for it when pup is picked up. The reality is these owners arent stupid they just choice to ignore the obvious

Yep very bad dogs we always take photos as those owners are the first to whinge. We also keep the hair & show them. We have never reported anyone because nothing will happen but we never allow the owners to think they can simply "fluff over it".

Yes its true & we simply no longer groom those clients

ours always have access to water . As pebbles has said some dogs(labs are often the worse) luv to up end water bowls or swim in them so make sure your general bowls are sturdy & wont tip. If anything at night just give a small amount but we always allow access

From a groomers point of view the more you put in the worse the coat becomes unless you dematt straight away.Matts set worse if washed or damped too much especially if humid. What brushing tools do you have?? If you have a slicker brush seperate in sections & work through.The more dead coat you can remove the easier the knot will be. If you havea matt breaker or undercoat rake that will also work well if the knots arent badly set. Also dont cut ,if there is a knot splice it in the direction the hair hangs. " I took my boy to a groomer with mats and all they did is rip his fur out - very disappointing" They could have clipped him off or did you not wish that to be done?

spaying doesnt change the temp ,make them fat etc etc. The dogs nature is moulded by its owners.Breeders can sell a well rounded puppy but what the owners do with it after it goes home has the biggest influence . We personally do select or inform puppy owners which ones will best suit there family,etxended family,activities & expectations & home life. Afterall nothing worse than living with a dog for 15 years when it was obvious from day 1 it wouldnt be the right pup. We have had a few owners who pulled out as they felt another pup was prettier than the one we felt & that is fine with us as we have to live with our placements & we have been spot on so far If they for example they want a female but they pups(females) in our belief will not meet that criteria but the male will we will inform those waiting & give them the choice.If they are set on the sex then there is no guarantee because we would never place the wrong pup in the wrong home purely because of the sex. We are very particular with families with children especially young children that we will shortlist those pups we now will survive the children more so than some others.99% of the time all pups are suitable but any good breeder is fully aware that some pups will best suit a mature family than 4 kids under 6 etc etc. The other reality is no one nows what sexes there will be so we suggest be open minded but with a preferance but it truley is very important that the right pup is selected. Again a breeder will be aware of the pups that would suit an experienced previous breed / dog owner compared to a first time owner.

We tell all our puppy owners that its far more important to pick the right pup for there home not just sex. Open minded is the best way

we also dont use rice but pumpkin for the runs. We use tablets to replace the gut lining(chemist ) Did you change the breeders diet?? Do you think the portions you are giving is too much?? Has the pup being getting left overs,treats??

our pups start lead training at 6 weeks but we never do it inside.We practise on the front lawn. We use collars firts & simply allow pup to take us for the walk.We will sit there for 10 mins.walk backwards.throw & toy & let pup chase. Dont panic but the tainty can be all show so dont be fooled

How much was full price?? I pay $60 a month to get my dogs maintained & worth every cent

I agree main meals are feed in bowls here,they dont need to be mentallly active when eating but left in peace to enjoy there daily fuel. Im sorry but for me there is fun then teasing.When you have a hungry dog making it hard for them to eat isnt my idea of a mental job but mental frustration

Goodluck with the hills rubbish stuff full of nasties. Personally i would be given straight away probiotic(not yoghurt) Tablets from the chemist or the protexin as already suggested & then going straight to a bland diet. Pumpkin mushed with what they tolerate easily.(dry,chicken if they stomach it but no rice or pasta.) In all honestly i would even go back to supacoat if i thought that would settle the tummy & slowly start again Remember EP may be fine for many dogs but like all food doesnt mean it will be for every dog & sometimes we have to feed something different for the dogs comfort & health. For example my irish luves turkey necks but gets bad runs if he gets raw meat more than 3 times a week. My english gets the runs badly with turkey necks.Does fine on mutton & lamb barf patties but again only a few times a week. My english thrives on only one dry food.Neither are given too much as it simply overdoses there system so when i find something that works well i stick with it. Also consider that sometimes just simply over doing it in activities can give dogs the runs.If you do alot of activities maybe take astep back for a while or cut down

Tail chasing is not normal behaviour

Just sit out the front for awhile with pup onlead so he can hear & see the surrounds. I would go for a quik walk & return home on your terms(not allow the pup to sit down) so if that means only 3 houses & return so be it.Whilst walking make it fun,voice & praise.

Ask your breeder.If they are good ethical breeder they should be your lifeline for help. We never use calcium supp BUT that is our choice.The diet if a good sound one will give a growing pup all it needs & with saints its important that they grow slowly to avoid any issues. The only supp i would consider & AGAIN personal would be glucomisine which i do give my large breeds as pup through to old age.

yes i have a breeds prone to bloat. I never soak biscuits,i feed raised because it is easier for them to eat . I agree totally with miranda though,family tree plays a major factor & the over all happiness of the dog. Dogs that bloat often do so during times of stress. We have had 2 dogs bloat (greys) one was an old girl & the other was a young dog that had all sorts of health issues & the bloat was no surprise.

I would call your breeder to let them now what the vet has said. I will also say the info the vet has given you is very correct & very well explained as you have taken it in so well.

have had a dog with this condition & it was life threatening in my boys case.He did survive but it took a massive toll on his health & his heart.

I would not consider what happened aggression at all but do make sure your 5 year spends good quality time with pup to re establish good feelings & trust. Maybe even consider crate training or using a baby gate & placing pup in a safe area to sleep. I now if i was startled whilst sleeping it would scare the living crap out of me.Dogs are no different being frieghtened y something you dont expect & react too isnt the end of the world . Any person that claims there dogs would never react are fooling themselves . eating & accidently treading on them i dont not consider in the same sleep as being woken suddenly .