Aussienot

In hindsight, I'd rather hear the bogus pathetic stupid reasons than some of the heartbreakingly painful ones. During the worst of the drought, we had men who had driven four or more hours to surrender their least valuable herding dog because they couldn't afford to feed them. They'd stand in the reception area trying so hard no to cry. And as to "there is a big difference between responsibly rehoming a dog and dumping it" I'd say, not to the dog . . . . in my world there is a big difference between love and an arrangement of convenience.

I think the idea is to train an animal that you have no emotional investment. Training a feedlot pig to negotiate an obstacle course taught me a lot about shaping and timing. Having no shared language, no behavioural expectations of each other, and no past relationship to fall back on, the only thing available is pure learning theory - and heaps of rice cracker pieces. Training my pet cat tricks taught me patience, and also humility. A cat does what it wants when it wants, and your training behaviour gets modified as much as the animal's behaviour does.

"We put in a pool, so don't have a yard for her anymore"- surrendering a 13 year old Spring Spaniel "I used to have a friend who would take her went I went on holidays, but she's not my friend anymore. Good friends are so hard to find" - woman surrendering a cat because she refused to pay for boarding. Ironic that she left a friend at the shelter . . . .

At dog day care, the toys really get a work out. The favs of the dogs, and my wallet, are the Turbo chooks and Thongs from Aussie Dog, and the Tuffee toys. Most dogs are partial to the rings, but the German Shepherds like the starfish the best. All have survived daily destruction attempts for 7 months or more, and worn but still dog safe. None of these toys are cheap to purchase, but on a cost per day basis they are a very good investment in entertainment. Cuz are a favourite of the dogs, but don't have a long life. And the ones with squeekers are tough to take in the mornings.

If you sincerely care about the differences between the two breeds, here's a link that explains the difference in type and function. Differences in Bull Breeds At the end of the article there are a few points about the physical differences, but I doubt that the average unexperienced person could accurately pick whether a particular dog was one or the other. I've looked at the breed standards for each breed, and don't see a magic Ah Ha! feature that splits them. Since the dogs live two doors away, is asking the owner which breed they are out of the question? And is it the behaviour of the dogs that concern you, or the breed?

As tdierkx said, if the vet is experienced in early age desexing, and if the patient is over 1 kilo in weight, there is no greater risk of a negative reaction than with an older dog. How young did they get the puppy? Are you sure it was under 8 weeks when the op was performed? Early age desexing is relatively recent practice. I am surprised that someone was performing it 15 years ago.

I have read Shutzhund Obedience - Training in Drive by Sheila Booth and Gottfried Dildei and recommend it highly.

I think the key question you need to ask is: Does the FAMILY really want another dog? Having two dogs is fine if you want two dogs. Many dogs appreciate having a companion and playmate. But getting another dog thinking it will solve a behaviour problem often results in having two behaviour problems. If it was me, I'd work on more environmental stimulation, lots of exercise, and structured, planned chewing on items designated as chew toys. Then, once I had that sorted if I wanted a second dog, I would look for a young dog of compatible temperament and energy levels.

Newfsy, I sent you a pm about bringing your dog on Saturday

Just a reminder that registrations close 1 June. Some spaces available on either day.

This link offers a good explanation and solutions. Submissive urination As the article states, you should have the dog checked by a veterinarian before undertaking behaviour modification. The solution involves your partner interacting with the dog in a more positive manner. This could be one of those 'dog' training problems that is really a people training problem.

It could be submissive urination rather than a break in toilet training. When a young dog feels a need to show that they are no danger to a larger, stronger and more dominant presence, submissive urination can be a reflex response. It is not 'disobedience'. What is the relationship like between your partner and your dog?

I use a treadmill at the dog daycare centre. I have a modified extra -long human one. There is a flip up hood over the motor so that I can vacuum out dog hair easily, and there are plastic panels on the sides to keep the dog straight. It's a great assett for those dogs who come into daycare amped up from a lack of exercise. It's extremely easy to teach dogs to walk on it, and most of the dogs seem to like using it. I also use backpacks with weights for some of the the highest energy dogs. Mine elevates, but does not have the down slope feature. I'd love to own one of the Fit for Life models, but the price was way, way, way over my budget.

Dogdude, your post took me back to a low night in agility training with a boxer mix (rescue) when a well-meaning person put a hand on my shoulder and said, 'if you are serious about agility, get a working dog". At first I was furious because he was dissin' my dog. But on reflection, yes it is much easier with some breeds. But my non-working high-drive dog could run rings around the herders at agility when he was properly motivated. At times, it was like pushing water uphill, but my dog made me into a much better trainer. I didn't get the dog to help me go into agility, I got into agility to help the dog. He loved it and placed a few times. And at the end of the night, he was the dog I loved, so that was more important than whether or not he was the right kind of breed. So my experience with Boxers and agility was a bit different than the question that was asked. If you want a dog for agility and have no sense of humour, stick to the the few prescribed breeds that win consistently. A young adult dog is a much better choice than a puppy for an agility prospect in my opinion, because you can more accurately assess the physical, mental and attitudinal potential. Pounds, shelters and rescues can be great places to find your next agility dog.

I have had males that live together peacefully and females that get along and also had pairs that didn't. There's no guarantee that any two dogs will get along, but a male and female combination usually give you the best odds of sucess. More important than gender is to make sure the dogs are complimentary in terms of energy, intensity and play styles. Similar size is good to aim for, but it doesn't matter too much of one is slightly bigger or smaller than the other.

The P stands for punishment, not positive. So P +/- would be used to minimize or extinguish behaviours. A leash correction for lunging is an example of positive punishment (P+), and stopping play if a puppy mouths you is an example of negative punishment (P-). R for Reinforcement is used to create behaviours. A treat is the classic example of positive reinforcement (R+). The ear pinch to build a retrieve is an example of negative reinforcement (R-). So, you are correct that the + or - indicates adding or taking something away but you also have to factor in if you are reinforceing or punishing. Learning theory is neutral on the subject, it's only dog trainers who use the terms Positive and Negative in moral ways. Most "positive" trainers use lots of R+ and maybe some P- but little or no P+.

So Your Dog’s Not Lassie Respected trainer and noted author Betty Fisher is making her first appearance in Australia on 19 and 20 June 2010. The Blue Mountains Dog Training club is hosting two days of training in Betty’s positive and motivational style. The seminars will be conducted at the Bill Spilstead Complex for Canine Affairs at 44 Luddenham Road Erskine Park NSW. In one day, Betty will teach you to overcome the traits that make training difficult. She will demonstrate the motivational techniques, clear communication and training structure that get results with difficult dogs and independent breeds. Anyone with any type of dog will benefit. Without force, you can turn your problem dog into the perfect pet, or even a successful obedience trialer. And if your dog is “Lassie”, you will learn to take your training to new heights. The program will be offered on Saturday and repeated on Sunday to fit into your other weekend activities. The morning (9:00 am) session covers fundamental training concepts, and the afternoon session (1:00 pm) delves into advanced work. The price is just $25 per session, and you can book for one or both sessions on either day. Spaces are limited, so early registration is encouraged. Registration closes 1 June 2010. The registration form is attached. Alternately, you can receive a form by emailing [email protected] or phoning 02 4751 7312. Registration_form.pdf

Try Beychief - Christine Anderson. In Tahmoor, south of Camden. She breeds both show and old style working lines. Details are in the breeders directory, and on her puppy listing there is notice of a potential working litter.

When I am instructing a beginning class, we start with teaching the dogs to sit at the owner's left side (heel position). The owner has the lead in the right hand only and treats in the left hand. We ask the dog to "watch" (give focused eye contact). When the dog can hold focused eye contact for 10 seconds or so, I ask the owners to take one step. Step off with your left foot and maintain the dog's focus. Take one step, and as your right foot lands ask for a sit making sure your dog gives you eye contact the whole time. Then praise, praise, praise. I congradulate the owners and tell them their dogs just 'heeled'. Then we work on two steps and a sit, always maintaining focus. The step off on the left foot and stop on the right foot is a constant reminder to the owners. When everyone can get a step or two of good heeling, we add the hand signal (a sweep with the left hand) and the command heel before stepping off. Then we work on two steps and a right about turn and a sit, always maintaining focus. Then two steps and a left about turn. Then we start adding steps, up to five steps, an about turn and a sit. Then we add left and right turns, and slow increase to about ten steps in total. We do right and left about turns from a complete stop. You can do a lot of different combinations with two about turns in a very small space. A lot of turning but only a little distance and heaps of rewards. Maybe ten steps maximum after three or four classes. Beginners work only on maintaining focus and keeping the dog in position. If the dog learns to look at the owner, start and stop when the owner moves and move with the owner through turns keeping focus, that's most of what the dog needs to know about heeling. The long straight stretches of straight heeling, changing pace and the drop and stand in motion can come later. And they come quickly if the foundation skills of watching and staying in position relative to the owner's leg are already learned. Even from the first night we try to stop luring and start rewarding. Since the heel patterns are very, very short, the dog is getting rewarded every couple of steps. Suceess rate is high, so the owners feel good about it and are willing to work on it. After the second week we give them the homework assignment to heel two or three steps in at least three different places each week (example, kitchen, front yard, street).

I think like most things in training- depends on the trainer, the dog and the club. I'm not sure you can generalise based on one club experience. A club is not necessary, but a good one can certainly be helpful. The club where I instruct leans a little too close to trial training for the beginning dogs, IMHO. In the advanced classes, yes, some people are training for trialling; but in the intro classes, most people just come to have a better behaved pet. So the challenge for instructors goes beyond teaching the sit drop and heel. The hard part is giving the new members the excitement and interest in training their dog, and encouraging those that have potential to go beyond 'pet dog manners'. Also providing classes that set the foundation for both pet manners and strict obedience exercises. Luckily the three people who teach the intro classes understand this and strike the balance pretty well. I also think one hour is way too long for actual learning. Our club trains the upper classes in two half hour blocks, with a tea break in between. Some people only train for the first half, and some people swap dogs in between sessions. Intro classes run for 30 to 40 minutes, depending on the attention level of the dogs. As a big community based club, we have to be a broad church, and teach for a wide range of outcomes. Most experienced trainers will do their serious trial training alone or in small groups, and use club classes for group stays and general control and focus, and neutralising to the presence of other dogs. (Also for fun, and to brag about their dogs.)

He could try the Companion Animal Sciences Institute CASI I've done three of the diploma courses. They are full of theory over practical, however I found them a good learning experience and interesting.

Do some research and you'll find this is not true. The Delta course is fully accredited, and was long before NDTF started offering courses.

Yes, when your puppy starts offering you learned behaviours, you know you are on your way to well-trained dog! Eventually he will be able to mentally go to just the right thing, instead of trial and error like he is doing now. Just remember to ignore any behaviour that is not the one you've asked for, no matter how cute it is. Dogs are very impressionable about 'pattern learning', so make sure you mix up the order of his tricks all the time. My mom's dog does the roll-over, sit up and beg and high five as one trick. She thought she was training three tricks, but she always did them in the same order, so now he can't do any one unless it is part of the sequence.

I know therapy dogs have an amazing sense of the human condition. They know when someone is sick, weak or in pain, and when approaching someone who has paralysis or weakness on one side they always know instinctively to go to the good side. Having said that, it would be easier on the dogs if the rules were consistent. Either thay are always allowed up to lie on the bed or they never are. Allowing the dogs to make that decision lets the dog think they get to make other decisons, too, which is what Hudson is doing. In my household, no dog gets to play the 'traffic cop' role. That's my job, and I'd put any dog in its place who tried to resource guard me. My take on your situation is that Hudson is taking on way too much responsibility for leadership of his pack. Embrace NILIF and use the Triangle of Temptation in daily training.

I think it will be a combination of setting rules and boundaries - letting her know that you are in charge; and the crate training. Give her no opportunity to choose where to pee. She needs to understand that is your house, your territory and your rules.