shmoo

chuck it all out and research a BARF diet.

places ive worked would run bleach through theirs.

do you know what process they groomed the dog in? ie did they wash and then dry her under a dryer or towel dry her? did she pick up fleas at the salon? was she near any dogs being clipped and could their loose clippings irritated her skin? i would probably bath her again in what you usually use on her, and dry her the way you do.

normal Bleach is fine to use. If you can get some F10 that is the best: f10 Disenfectant F10SC is a total spectrum disinfectant that, unlike other strong disinfectants on the market, has no adverse side effects on people, animals, or on equipment and surfaces. It is ecologically friendly and biodegradable, and carries a wide range of registrations and approvals from around the world. In Australia , F10SC is registered by the APVMA for use in animal production and housing facilities, approved by AQIS for use in food export processing as a non-rinse disinfectant, and is also listed by the TGA as a Hospital Grade Disinfectant. The benefits of using F10SC include: • Kills all types of pathogen – F10SC is bactericidal, virucidal, fungicidal, sporicidal • Minimal chance of microbial resistance due to F10SC’s unique benzalkonium chloride and polyhexamethylene biguanide combination of actives and mode of action • *Rapid kill times – less than 30 secs for gram positive bacteria, 60 secs for gram negative bacteria, Canine Parvovirus 30 mins • Non-corrosive, non-toxic, non-tainting, non-irritating, aldehyde-free • Highly cost effective • Biodegradable & ecologically friendly • *Tried, tested, independently verified and documented, and approved around the world What it’s used for: F10SC, as a general disinfection of animal house keeping procedures e.g. Food & water Bowls cages pens, transport boxes. Also used for the Special situation, disinfection e.g. parvovirus, “Cat Flu”, ringworm, distemper, sniffles.

im stumped too peibe! lets us know the outcome. and i hope they mend real quick.

oh Bacchus what a horrible place to be right now. I hope whatever decision you make goes well for you. I would be so undecided as well. cavNrott: you're making me teary eyed!

dishwashing liquid will really dry out the coat. if you think your dogs skin can handle it and the scrubing then your choice. personally i would be going and getting a whitening shampoo and using that everyday till its faded.

the lump when they have a happy

The only remove the testicles and not the scrotum. So it can still look like the dog has balls for a while and when they get a "boner" you can see them rise.

love to see the finished job! dont know anybody who can scissor a maltese and make it look natural. they have the wrong type of coat. eta: and clippers will take about a 5th of the time that it would to scissor it. just doesnt make sense to scissor.

oh gosh i didnt realise you were cutting the hair AND nails with the same scissors! you will ruin any pair of scissors doing that. scissors are only for hair. eta: they also need to be sharpened, cleaned and oiled regularly.

Roseline is pretty expensive. i got a good pair off ebay. i have pairs that cost me over $100, but my $35 ebay pair are my fav. can you get to a grooming supplies store? best way to find what you like.

try doing some very very gentle massaging of the area and put a warm face washer on the area. she might have woken with a stiff neck like humans do sometimes. if she wimpers when you massage it, leave her be and see how she is in the morning.

desexing here in australia is a very simple op. some info from my book im writing "Males are “castrated”. This involves the surgical removal of the testicles, leaving the penis and scrotum intact. The best age to have a dog desexed for most breeds is between 6 and 9 months" "A desexing procedure is quiet often the only surgery a dog may have its whole life. When having a dog desexed, they receive a sedatives and pain relief before going into surgery. The vet will choose the anaesthetic combination most suitable for your pet, depending on age, weight and breed and any concurrent medical problems. In most cases the dog can be picked up that evening, a night to sleep of any last of the sedatives and will be bouncing around as normal within a day or two. Stitches comeout approximately 10 days later unless they are of the dissolvable kind. The cost differs depending on the size and sex of your pet. Female desexing, even though routine, is still major abdominal surgery compared with castration, so is more expensive. Larger dogs use more drugs, anaesthetics and surgical materials so prices increases for weight range. Desexing is not reversible and dogs will not regrow the organs removed."

i would be interested to know what the vaccine is.. is it modified live formula or killed/inactive formula? or is it just a higher dose of what they might already give at 8, 12 and 16 weeks? that might be over kill for some pups and they might not be able to handle the vaccine. whereas some dogs might take it fine.

i guess i would say i use a slicker more often. but generally i look at the each coat individually and see what works best. sometimes a rake can work well and sometimes it needs to be blown out with a HV dryer.

i really wanna do the Delta one but the cost is something around $3500 and i really cant afford that. I looked at doing the one at K9 Force but its only 4 lessons and i am looking so something much more indepth. I looked at all the TAFE courses and none are very suitable. they are either for somebody wanting to be an animal attendant or work in a lab. i dont want to do vet nursing and ive been a groomer for years and before that i was an animal attendant. so TAFE would only be going backwards for me.

I want to expand my dog knowledge further and I want to do a behaviour training type course in Sydney that is hands on. NDTF and Delta are way out of my budget ($2000-$3500) but I would like to do something that is full-time or close to. Any ideas?

is he in the sun alot? would that be damaging the light hairs and making them fall out?! im taking guesses on the presumption all health checks were clear.

i had that in mind Daisy.. just trying to figure what section to put it in

is he rubbing it on anything? fencing? crates? a toy perhaps? i cant really think of anything else that hasnt been suggested...

ok have written this: When fostering dogs directly from a pound it is strongly recommended that a purpose built quarantine area such as that described above be used. In the case of foster carers being unable to build or access such a facility, precautions should still be taken to illiminate disease and lower the risk of infection for other dogs. For example: • Link yourself with a rescue group that has consistent and continual access to such kennels. • Have dogs bathed, vaccinated and treated for parasites before bringing them into the house environment ie at a vet clinic. • Foster privately surrendered dogs, especially surrenders with known histories. • Foster dogs no younger than 6 months of age. Taking these precautions mean that a person may not be able to save every dog that they want to save, but there will still be some dogs that need rescuing that are much lower risk than others.

i understand what you are saying, how would you suggest they go about it? 1. where will the dog stay for the 2 weeks before bringing it home? Staying at the pound is not an option, do you suggest boarding in privately owned kennels? 2. not many carers can spot a dog in a pound or a picture from a website that the dog has health problems. and some lay dormant for many days. 3. not many rescue groups take on surrenders. most focus on saving dogs on "death row" im not meaning to sound rude. just asking questions that i would need answered before i wrote it in the book.

but what else would be an effect quarantine other than what i just stated? IMO that is the minimum required.

where abouts are you located? perhaps we could recommend a groomer in your area