karly101

I would avoid if u can ...the concerns is the kidneys and the product itself doesn't recommend itself for long term use. I would stick with another nsaid and start a loading dose and gradually work to lowest possible dose daily. Cartrophen injections would be worth a try too.

Yes it's basically matter of luck if it makes it through customs or not ... Customs tend to just seize and give the importer (you) a warning first....if you keep doing it I believe they can fine you.

I had one puppy that reacted aggressively at my work which is a vet clinic. It's not normal behaviour...in all the puppies u see it's very unusual to get aggressive responses. It continued as we saw the puppy and at 6 months then the owner began to seek professional help. At a year the dog was put to sleep ..whilst it had become better due to hard work and medication it was unpredictable and unsafe in a home environment. So I would seek veterinary attention first rule out health then go straight to a behaviour specialist.

2 days would be ok if its not a weepy wound which it should't be. it could just be protecting some sutures so could be fine to take off sooner. Just check that the foot is not swollen and its not uncomfortable and the bandage stays nice and dry.

A ADAPTIL collar may also be worthwhile, my dog has a phobia of slippery floors and whilst the collar didn't take it away completely it helped reduce the anxiety level and recovery time afterwards if he did slip. I used them for awhile and it made him more accepting to training on the floor.

the dental scaler makes noise and sprays water as well - then as the scaler creates micro scratches on the tooth surface the vet needs to follow with a polisher which also vibrates and is noisy. So yes the answer is no, its not possible without a GA. You could physically try and chip off some of the tarter manually but no way is it anyway near the same level of a proper scale and polish. Also this method its impossible to get to each tooth in an awake dog - risk of bite is too high.

I think you need to reread your original 2 posts Jed and you will see how people are offended! Also remember that peoples situations change - they may loose jobs, have to get a new one, get sick. Sometimes the dog can't be the priority and I don't think they should immediately be tarred as being cruel to their dog. There are situations of real animal cruelty and a young dog being alone for 10 hours (if being fed and walked and provided stimulation every day which I agree all dogs should) isn't really one of them. I don't think a working day alone is the cause of these issues you speak of.. its simply training and lack of mental stimulation. Some dogs lack this even when their owners are home all day.

If i didn't work full time I wouldn't be able to pay for my dogs supply of Atopica medication haha. I think one thing you are assuming wrong is that full time workers work a normal working day! I work on a rotating roster and rarely do 730 - 5 every day. I have one dog (my sisters dog lives with me but he's an unsociable dog who spends very little time with mine). I don't have a dog walker but when I'm not working I tend to be spending time with my dog. I was able to take my pup into work occasionally at a young age or a friend sometimes stopped over but sometimes he was alone for that period of time. He's never suffered from separation anxiety and is always left with stuff to do (yes occasionally as a pup he'd create his own fun!). He's now 3, and now my sister is home and she says all he does is sleep most of the day. Everyone's situation is different, I know plenty of people who do not work and the dog sits in the back yard all day. Plenty of retirees who have a dog but are never at home or always travelling (and dog ends up constantly at the kennels). Do you apply the same criteria to them too or just assume because they aren't working they will be with the dog?

A lot of clinics won't do it as there are issues with drugs being seized by customs or being expired or not actually what they are meant to be but again it can depend on what drug it is. The clinic I'm at currently doesn't write scripts for websites as observed a couple of patients recently given drugs that weren't effective (ie. expired or possibly not even correct drug). They do often send scrips to pharmacies. A good thing to check is if your clinic charges a script fee (all I've worked at do).

I prefer the commercial supplements available as they are already dosed out appropriately. Cost wise when I was in vet clinic where a lot of clients were struggling finacially we actually found the hills j/d or eukunuba mobility to be good as it already has the supplements included in the feed and for big dogs tended to worked out cheaper than purchasing separately (this may have changed so just do a price check with amount to feed and see). Your clinic should be able to tell you how much all those different joint supplements work out to be over time. Feed back from people was just as good as with the supplements. They are individual and you may find certain ones don't work. I think a trial of pain relief would definitely be beneficial and prob give you more idea on pain level.

No, its a complex matrix of genetics and environment. Good nutrition is incredibly important and is backed by research. Sometimes you can be lucky to be blessed by good genes and it doesn't matter what you eat. Every animal is individual and that's why some dogs do better than others on certain foods. For every one you meet that thrives on cheaper food there's plenty others that have skin issues/stomach issues/urinary issues/teeth issues and high cholesterol from them. Fortunately because people are feeding dry foods and there is a lot more information on balanced raw diets you don't really see many dogs who have nutritional deficiencies from poorly researched home made diets. I think you should stick to what you are doing with your raw and good quality dry.

Look up histiocytoma - not saying it is that but just a possibility thats much nicer than a mast cell! You'll know more when the vet does a FNA of it. My dog had a similar one and chose to remove it with my vet as it didn't resolve but I'm told they can sometimes go down themselves.

Not sure what pain medication she is on but there are a few that need to be given with food so hopefully you can speak to the vet soon and the blood work may give some answers. There is an antibiotic that can be injected and that might be more suitable for her than getting hit and miss tablets. Sounds like she is still in a lot of pain.. poor girl.

I think as long as you can wait is good.. but it depends on the individual. My boy was 10 months and I did him then as his undescended testicle suddenly dropped and I also had to start him on skin medication and we decided best to get the boy bits out and have him on proper pain relief and not have to worry about it interacting with his skin meds. Behaviour wise he was fine but I noticed other desexed males were REALLY targeting him on our walks and for me that's a worry that if it kept happening he would become reactive.

Eyes can go nasty very quickly and that also looks very painful, it really needs an examination, I recommend seeking advice of an after hours vet.

I've had a couple dogs that are allergic to oatmeal so yes it is possible. I haven't had problems with it with my itchy boy, I also use the natural shampoo and have also started Virbac Episooth. I also like the blackmores paws range. Haven't tried moogoos pet shampoo but I use their human stuff!

Most vet clinics will stock the royal canin hypoallergenic diet.

Z/d can be fed long term? It may be worthwhile trying the Royal Canin hyper allergenic or sensitivity control diets too. My dog also lost weight on his allergy diet (pork and potato) and I was feeding a LOT. I put him on to Hills Active formula and condition is good now. I've chopped and changed a few formulas but this one seems to keep condition and lowest incidences of vomiting/diarrhea (due to meds he is on). With sensitive dogs sometimes it can take a bit of time to find whats right but remember to give any new diet 6-8 weeks.

From my experience.. fleas do not seem to care about the 'magnetic protective shield' that these tags claim to produce. I don't know how these companies can get away with selling these products, there is no peer reviewed scientific literature that they work and they cause terrible harm when used on a poor dog I saw with flea allergy dermatitis yet owner thought he was protected by his tag.

My dog is always restrained with a harness but am researching to get a safer one as they recently crash tested a number and many failed. I drive a small car so a crate will not fit. It's nothing to do with a training issue, I work in a vet clinic and have seen first hand the injuries caused by a small unrestrained dog in a car accident. I would like to save my dog the pain of a shattered skull and eye ball socket from hitting the dash and this was a minor accident where the driver had no injuries.

I just don't get how they can say market it as a premium version and they cannot even define the meat source, kangaroo AND chicken and/OR turkey. I use their normal range for training occasionally. I just buy whatever one is on special but haven't seen this on special yet. And yes the analysis is different due to water content, can't remember how to convert it to a dry matter basis.

I'd move to an adult food now.. it's hard to tell from the video on his weight but if you have any concerns there are plenty of active formulas. I fed a puppy food well past 12 months but my dog was a struggle to keep weight on, at 2 I moved to a lighter adult formula and the weight has just dropped off again so its back onto active for him!

I agree with above poster.. I think they are referring to the nobivac one. If given after 10 weeks the nobivac C3 will cover till annual booster. It is generally paired with an intranasal KC vaccine so you can get out socializing earlier.

Cortisone isn't the only option. There's desensitizing vaccines to the specific allergy, there's cyclosporine which is expensive but effective and long term safer than cortisone. You could also replace the grass if she is diagnosed allergic to the type you have. See a dermatologist and go from there.

For my dog its been proven that he doesn't have a food allergy (though I guess this can change) so I can't help you with food, after many diet changes (due to his skin meds upsetting his stomach) he's on Science diet and that turned out to be what he does well on. If I add any rich foods to his diet (in protein or fat) he vomits. I always use a washing liquid (omo sensitive) rather than powder and use vinegar as my rinse/fabric softener. For cleaning products I stick to Earth Choice (http://www.naturesorganics.com.au/) but will also use vinegar and eucalyptus oil. For my dog at the moment there's so much pollen around and everyone I know who has hay fever is suffering bad so I would suspect your garden is the cause!!