Red Fox

Yeah, that is why I need to get all the info and think of a way to start this conversation with her... they aren't cat people at all. Rat, ferret, bird ... goldfish!?? anything but a puppy. What about a parrot or something that the kids can teach to talk? There are breeds of cats that are more 'doglike' if that appeals to them. My Burmese (well my sons actually) will talk back, fetch, play zommies, hide and seek etc. If it were me I'd be pointing out the dangers of large bouncy dogs and young kids, particularly dogs that are kept outside and sooo excited to see anyone that they will jump on them in excitement. Or if they don't like fur and smells then make it clear to them exactly how much a Lab will shed and how much it will smell if kept outside. Explain training, excercise, socialisation and grooming reqirements, health probs within the breed, vet costs, feeding requirements and costs, healthcare (worm/heartworm/flea treatments etc. Make sure that they understand that a bored dog (ie one who does not have enough mental, physical and emotional stimulation) will be a destructive dog. No responsible breeder will sell this family a Lab puppy (unless they lie through their teeth about how the dog will be kept). If they want one they are going to end up purchasing from a pet shop or BYB where the odds of getting a healthy puppy with a good solid temperament are pretty slim anyway.

Tell them to get a cat. Cats can grow up with kids too :D

Exactly what sas has said. A bad puppy pre-school can easily ruin a good dog. Bad experiences at this age are likely to affect the dog for the rest of his life. But even good experiences can have their downside. Think of it like this: You take your new puppy to pre-school, it's a wonderful preschool where he gets to run and frolick with the other puppies, they all get along soooo well and puppy is having a ball. He loves the other puppies and drags you through the door each week in excitement. It's great fun! Fast forward a few months later to obedience class where your now rather large puppy is dragging you all over the place, pouncing on the other dogs and being a right pain in the arse. You try bribing him with steak, sausages, cheese... but he doesn't want a bar of it here. "Why doesn't he listen to me!!" you cry. Well why should he? You've spont the past few months teaching him that other dogs are the best, most fun thing in the world - and now you want him to forget that and pay attention to YOU? I don't think so! Thank very carefully about what you want from your dog in the future. A small mistake at this age will take years (if not a lifetime) of work to correct.

I wouldn't use the injection. There are cheaper and safer option available. For example Interceptor will cost you around $60 per year (around $5 per month) for a small dog and will protect against heartworm PLUS intestinal worms (roundworm, whipworm, hookworm and tapeworm). It can be given as a chew or crumbled into your dogs food. http://www.petcareshop.com.au/product_info...products_id=210 Apart from chews there is also the option of everything from tablets to spot-on's, with the choice of combined monthly heartworm and intestinal worming treatments, to daily or monthly heartworm tablets/chews and quarterly intestinal worming (or intestinal worming as needed). Most people seem to go for the monthly all in ones due to convinience but it's really up to you. There's no reason why a small dog can't take a tablet either and in all likelyhood there will be a time in the dogs life where it has to. If the dog won't take the tablet from your hand you simply hold their head so that their nose is pointing at the ceiling, open their mouth and drop the tablet in and wait for them to swallow. Easy

I found dried roo tails to be okay as my dog would pull all the meat out then I would throw the bones away. Occasionally I give dried leg bones too (roo) but they are binned as soon as the meat has been ripped off and the knuckles have been chewed as they can and do splinter. One thing about dried bones though - when thet are slobbery they STINK! If it's for inside perhaps a stuffed kong would be better? Or lay a tarp down on the floor and let him eat raw bones on that

Clothes dryer :D Another thing you can try is to buy a roll of cheap packing tape ($10 for 9 rolls at Australia Post). You wrap the tape around your hand with the sticky side outwards and then kind of blot the hair out. Works heaps better than a roller and cheaper too

They are reasonably strong. Pawing at the door won't break it but continuous scratching might, as will chewing. Try eBay for cheap crates

Ah cool, I might do a search then. I think it's about time to bump it eta found it: http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?show...;hl=deprivation

As per the title. I believe that the word "deprivation" is all too often misunderstood and misinterpreted by those who do not understand it, nor the role that it plays in training. Thank you.

Try using a marker word (like "yes") instead of a clicker Otherwise some suggestions so that you don't have to hold the clicker in your hand: Carabiner clip - Attach the split ring to the clicker and the caribiner to the handle of the leash/treat pooch/your clothing etc Wrist band - you can just flick the clicker up into your hand when you need it Lanyard - attach it to the clicker and keep it around your neck Black Dog 'Zinger' - clips on to your clothing/treat pouch and has a retractable cord Hope that helps

What about a cheap bumbag? Or a training vest with pockets?

Stypic powder You can buy this in pen/block form in the shaving section of most stores too. I've used one one of the pens in desperation a few months back and it worked beautifully.

Perhaps drop into a vet or a groomer and ask You should be able to pick up something reasonable for around $25 or less but stick to the scissor styles as the guillotine style are useless and most dogs hate them. Otherwise try a dremmel

I tend to agree with what Lilli said in her first post. If it were me I would consider adding ACV and probiotics to her diet, and perhaps cranberry for the UTI. You can also try mixing natural yogurt and mince in with the dry food rather than canned food. How has the vet suggested that you deal with her palate issue?

Yep I know. That's why the Super Beagle is such an inspiration ;)

I struggle with that question every day Trying to train a low drive dog in drive is HARD, it's taken me months to achieve what some have in a few days and there are days where I think I should just chuck it all in, get the high drive dog that I really want and not bother with Kei (well not in a training sense anyhow). But the thing is that he still has so much to teach me. And I believe that those lessons will be invaluable when I eventually do get another dog. The part I find the hardest is motivating my dog. Some days I need to play the role of a whole cheerleading team! (And end up sounding like a demented crazy lady, I'm sure the neighbours will have me committed one day!!) But this is not always easy, particularly when things aren't going to plan. It doesn't exactly come naturally to me either. I have days with Kei where it's like getting blood out of a stone, and others where he will throw me the most brilliant session and I wonder why I ever worried It's certainly challenging but it's still early days and while we are still both enjoying the work I will persevere with it, in the end the results are worth it IMO

Vet n Pet Direct have 5% off with the coupon code EFY2010 ending June 30th

..or you could call the council and let them know that a certain owners who attends the park at the same time every night is not picking up after their dog

The toys should be YOURS, not your dogs You decide when they get them, you decide when to put them away. I dont know if this will help with your problem at all but it may help your dog to stop seeing the toys as 'his'. If you are worried about them being alone then perhaps seperating the dogs during the day is a wise idea. If nothing else it will reduce your own stress levels

At a guess approx $150 per month in food, wormers, insurance and other bits and pieces (grooming products etc) Though apart from insurance it is never that regular, we might buy $50 worth of meat one week, then $60 on Interceptor (wormers) another week, then nothing for a bit, then a few supplements for meals another week... Then there are the things that are not neccessities like a new leather leash and collar (around $100), or a coat for winter ($50-$100 each) that I tend to buy every once in a while. Or little things like training treats/toys, new bowls, blankets etc. Also registration once per year and annual check up at the vets.

Hmmm... I'm not sure why others do it but I feed twice daily for a couple of reasons. First being that I have a breed prone to bloat so prefer two smaller meals, second is that I find it easier to split meals so that the morning meal is RMB's and the other is meat/veg/yogurt/supps/offal/sardines etc - whatever I want to give on that night. I find it easier to get my ratios right that way and find that energy is better spread out over the day too. I also have a dog that vomits on an empty tummy so feeding twice daily is best for us anyway. Very good point, my young DObe did exactly that and I had to pull a wing out of her throat. Make sure what ever thay are having needs a good chew to go down. yep, Kei did that with a neck when he was 9 weeks old!! After that I taught him to chew by either holding the end of a wing or large neck and letting him eat it that way or giving him bones that were way to big to swallow and taking away if they got too small. Once he got the chewing bit right I started to give necks again but bashed them up a bit first until I was sure he wouldn't gulp them. It didn't take long to teach him though and now he is a real chewer with his bones regardless of how small they are :D

Does it? I've successfully trained plenty of older dogs with Drive Training techniques, some to quite a high degree of competitive obedience. I personally think the trick is to find the thing that switches your dog on. Whether that's a toy or food, and in one case I had a dog that just went crazy with purely verbal praise. He was a dynamite obedience dog...pita to live with with! But we loved him anyway. As to dogs that appear to have no interest in anything, you can work on that. Dory wasn't too interested in toys when I first got her if you tried to wind her up she'd look at you like you were a nut. These days it doesn't take her much to kick into drive with a toy and do some nice heeling. (Short lived as it is...I've gotten waaaaaaay slack and have lowered my standard quite a bit these days). It just took a bit of patience, lots of praise and training her to let her know she could go crackers over a toy not just rough games. She has learned to LOVE tug. Where can I find more information on drive training? My puppy seems to be very play motivated so maybe I could use that to my advantage in training. K9 Pro web site here: http://www.k9pro.com.au/pages.php?pageid=55

Thanks Kavik, will do

All are fine but if you gives necks (or wings depending on the size of the puppy) supervise very closely in case the pup tries to gulp them down. Or you can try holding the end of a wing while the puppy chews on it. Frames are good since the puppy will have to chew them

Plain natural yogurt, preferably one with all the good stuff in it like ABC cultres/probiotics Raw is fine, including the shell. I sometimes give my dog warm scrambled eggs in winter but otherwise just crack them in, you don't have to cook them. Old wives tail. COOKED bones of any sort are a no go as they can splinter but RAW is fine. Raw chicken bones are soft and easy to digest for most dogs