Jacquiboss&scoop

the possums are an easy one here , they stay on the other side of the fence and tend to run away when they spot the dogs , the wombats however stand at the fence and growl back at the dogs , we have a big old male who has his den about 10 meters from the rear house fence , send the dogs out to do a loo stop at the wrong time and they growl at each other through the fence, the wallaby and roo population are good they just bolt , LOL possums are the least of it when it comes to natives the wombats are a scary thing when it comes to dogs , this old bugger will growl at and take on a car !! Oh our dogs sleep inside although if they are hunting they are silent the only animals they bark at are foxes and humans every thing else is potential dinner and you dont want to make it run away before you can get a hold of it

Our schmoo has fits when not medicated , we medicated when she had a cluster of five in one day , before that it was one or two a month , hers were caused by an infection in the brain , unfortunately although the infection has been treated the damage has not yet healed , As she has Grand Mal fits where she loses control of her bowel and bladder she also releases her anal glands at the same time , the one thing that told us she had a fit when we were not home was the telltale smell on her , it hangs around for about 5 hours afterwards clearly definable and for a day or two as a sort of mousey smell , the other thing is exhaustion and increased hunger and thirst , she will sleep for several hours solid after a fit and want a large amount of water as well as hunting for food . Watch the pattern and record it , some vets are now starting medication at the first fit in an effort to stop the brain path for fitting increasing When we were collecting her medication earlier this month we had to wait for its delivery to the vet , as their supply had been used by dogs getting to the today tomorrow and yesterday bush that is flowering in some areas at the moment , if you have any of this plant Pull it out !

I think I may have seen the clip that Hotfoot is talking about , both the jorno and the handler were way out of line , the guy not only lent over the dog but spent a good 2 min hitting the poor thing on the head ( that slap slap type type of pat some people do ) , I know my dogs would not see that as a pat! , then he goes to put his arms around the dogs neck , this is when the poor thing bit him , the poor dog was clearly giving signals that he didnt like this his handler did not intervene , he was clearly a dog that doesnt like to be touched on the head , his handler did not intervene , When someone wants to pat or touch my dogs they do it by my rules , if any of my dogs look uncomfortable I stop the interaction , I dont think they would ever bite but why put your dog through something they dont like just to make a stranger happy . As we do not know all the circumstances in relation to the incident it is hard to say what did happen, and judge what should be done , but if it was anything close to the above , then both the owner and the staff member stuffed up

I would feed it if graded for human consumption , all our dogs eat raw human consumption only and it is frozen first with the usual rules of keeping meat followed I know that in Australia horse meat is avoided by humans and it is sad how many nice horses end up at the doggers but we need to look at the horse trade to reduce this if the meat is available and of quality I will use it .

I'd agree with this advice... until then, you can make yourself the bees knees with your new pup at home in a controlled environment. Another word of advice - be choosy about the obedience club you go to too - some of them aren't exactly perfectly run either. T. By 16 weeks, the first peak socialisation period has been and gone. You don't get a second chance at it. If a pup has access to other dogs and gets to meet a heap of people, before last vaccs that's one thing. Far too many go nowhere, meet no one and pay for that lack of experience for life. I do agree with this - of course in my case I have always had older dogs around for socialisation and have made sure that the puppies had plenty of inter-action with people. If you have friend with older dogs, and you know those dogs have been vaccinated, then allowing the puppy to socialise with them is preferable to exposing them to a possibly frightening experience at a badly-supervised "puppy school" I have older dogs here , as well as a few with family that visit so puppy will know what other dogs are , people are easier to do and they meet and greet some but I actively teach them to ignore strangers , I dont want them rushing up to people for pats , at the moment that behaviour would mean that people would be dealing with a 46 kg rottie , what looks a bit like a GSD with a cattle dogs fur on and what looks like a small brindle cattle dog , could be a bit scary for the non doggy people out there to cope with I feel prevention is the key so my dogs have a hello command this allows them to sniff and go forward a step in order to be patted and that is it

I'd agree with this advice... until then, you can make yourself the bees knees with your new pup at home in a controlled environment. Another word of advice - be choosy about the obedience club you go to too - some of them aren't exactly perfectly run either. T. By 16 weeks, the first peak socialisation period has been and gone. You don't get a second chance at it. If a pup has access to other dogs and gets to meet a heap of people, before last vaccs that's one thing. Far too many go nowhere, meet no one and pay for that lack of experience for life. LOL not mine I tend to have a puppy attached to me , we go to sport events , train stations, general walkies ( when Vacc is done ) car trips expose them to everything I can while they are young but my aim is more to teach them to either tolerate or ignore what is going on around them and not be frightened when they hit something new. My dogs will meet and greet but are just as happy to sit and watch

How many of those dogs were not given the best of starts in life and were separated from their littermates too early? Not all puppy schools are alike. There are some very good ones around and if a pup has not had ideal socialisaton experiences with dogs and other people, I'd be BURNING a path to the door of a good one. The old dog came to me at approx 5 weeks old found at tip with 2 littermates in a box , Keisha was an AWL puppy around 7 weeks old when we first went out for a look had one litter mate with her that they seperated her from as she was dominating it terribly , we collected her after desexing was done which took a few weeks as it was over the chrissy break on that year so I am not too sure as to their starts as such and we always had an exsiting dog here that was good with young pups am not sure how much difference this made for them though in the long run . umm Schmoo was from a breeder we picked her up on 8 weeks , would say she had an easy start would be the only one of them though I think Keisha did alright to with the AWL Good ones would be hard to find and with a bad start I would want to be even more careful with what they first encountered with me

Yes a little older and a lot more useful , I always did wonder how a 12 week old pup could learn good doggy manners from a 16 week old pup , both equal in the clueless area as far as I have seen , prefer to introduce them to bomb proof adults that are not that interested in playful puppy antics

Thanks for that Sas With all of the changes and keeping in mind some of the puppy contracts I have seen of late I was a little worried if it would become a stumbling block for us .

LOL JuelsP am dreadful at shading the truth , to lazy , I dont think anyone should be able to do that either but I have noticed over recent years that there seems to be a large amount of conditions for homing a dog , not that this is always bad but it is getting a little intrusive " is my dog after all "

Yes , this is the problem I have seen with puppy schools they do appear to be free for all gives me the cold shivers, plus I like to have my dogs see me as the bees knees , not other puppies from the word go. I tend to take pups out and about they see here and smell everything , but I teach them to ignore other dogs and humans as I tend to keep large breeds , playing with a whole group of puppies is like a mini dog park ( another scary situation IMO) I would however consider a school that does not do the "play " sessions does the trainer do example or take over the puppy ? Am not keen on someone else taking over too much while we are becoming the bees knees for puppy

HI Was wondering if rescue groups could help out , when our old dog passes on we will be looking for a new furry family member as the old dog is 17 this will most likely be in the next few years My question is if we adopt a puppy from rescue will we be required to go to puppy school as It is something that I will never do with my dogs , have seen a few and they appear to be counter productive to developing a well mannered dog . We have three dogs , none have attended puppy preschool , none are dog or human aggressive nor are they bad mannered. public or at home and all are well trained to what we require I would like to adopt from rescue but if puppy pre school is required we may have to find another alternative any info would be good thanks

Our short leash is always long enough to hold the loop and any extra lead in the right hand with the left as the guide hand I would not use one shorter than that , we do not use retractable leads at all I like my arms fingers and legs a little to much for that , our long line for training is an old lunger that we used for the pony LOL recycle reuse , mind you this would be a bit much for a chi

HI Gary C With a cross breed you need to look at the adult weight in the breed standard of both breeds and allow for these weights and heights , the diet he is on sounds good , a complete raw diet for growing puppies can be hard to balance but if you would like to do this get your hands on the book grow your pup with bones. Most standard poodle cross labs I have seen are high energy dogs so if you are keeping him fit he may need a little more than the standard recommended amount for his weight enjoy your new puppy hope to see more posts with Pics love puppy picks

never mind , I had a rottie that I thought for years was broken , all kids allowed in our yard with us home or not , then had some hawkers come calling while I was having a cuppa with a neighbour , despite the sign on the gate straight up to the door , watched her come out from behind the bush in the garden and corner them at the door NOT ONE Woof but I had to go and move her so they could leave LOL , next time read the sign and go to the front door LOL not in the back gate

HI Just noticed a refferance to Canine Herpies being possible , I would forfit deposit now go to fair trading should you wish to sue for it . Most breeders screen their dogs for this before mating , some will not allow their dog over a bitch that proves positive not a good outcome I am told Have a chat to a vet you trust or that is known to friends of yours that you can trust ( not the breeders vet ), give them the history of the litter and see what they think is the best move Have Hubby in on the conversation as well If puppy has bad eye infection / Weeping appears confused it can mean partial or complete blindness , this is just a start of what you might be facing , better not to take a pup

Our three loo after dinner at 8 and in for as long as they can string it out in the morning , when I get up at 5 30 only Keisha comes outside with me to supervise the big animal feeding , the other 2 are happy to stay in until the school run on a week day , or until I boot them out for taking up all the lounge space on a weekend . They sleep free in the house and are all adults , if they are in desperate need of the loo ( rare ) they knock on our door with their claws can hold up to 14 hours but we try not to do that to them

It Might be that they were both on leads and puppy was getting a little frustrated as well , rotties also play a little different to the terrier types as well they tend to be quieter not quite so vocal , Aussies and borders often make quite a bit of noise when they play too

Hi If you have any doubts about puppys health then suggest that you look at another litter , or have your chosen vet examine the pup before you take him . You can state that you do not want the weaker pup to the breeder it is up to them what they wish to sell you but it is also up to you as to what you want to buy. If they are planning another litter in the near future that you like perhaps request to go on the list for the subsequent litter ? You always have the right to start again with another breeder if you feel after dealing with this one for a while that they are not what you were looking for " I for me personaly I would not take the pup with these misgivings " Good luck

It might be worth trying to slow him down a bit then , slow feeder feeding bowls work for dry food , raw food is a little harder , we slow our rottie down by serving her large pieces as well as freezing some of it , a big frozen lump takes longer , some people drop a brick or paver in the middle of the dinner dish as this also forces them to slow down , other idea would be to feed 2 or three small meals to take the edge off the guts

We use flat collar and lead for general walking and training , most of our dogs exercise comes from off lead zoomies on our property ( large rural ) they do not have access to more than an acre so love to bounce all over the rest of it. When we road walk they have a flat collar and leather leash , all are good at loose lead walking and are responsive , as we are looking at tracking for the Rottie and Keisha we will be investing in tracking harness for them , but not just yet am not keen on harnesses as family have had huskys and mals a harness is for PULLING LOL not fun , head collars are a training tool as are check collars ect , although we have them they dont get much use if your puppy will loose lead walk , and you are able to confidently contain sudden pulling a flat collar is fine , if physical strength is the issue then a martingale collar often gives you enough grunt to pull them up sharp without loosing your arm or dragging your face along the ground ,

I know this sounds yuck but does he attempt to re eat what he has thrown up ? is he a food hoover ? There are bowls that will make him slow down when he eats , or try large meaty bones if he is fed raw and frozen smaller stuff , but it sounds like the valve at the top of the gut needs to be examined if he is not a piggy eater

Hi With dry food try following the guide on the bag for breed and weight and adjust to match , with raw it should be about 4 % of the dogs ideal adult weight no more than the greedy little thing can eat in 10 mins , also remember to add any treats that he gets to his total food intake a rule of thumb is to look at the puppy from above , pup should have a clearly defined waistline with the very last ribs visible to the eye and if you run your hand down the side of the dog you should be able to feel his ribs with a light cover , with a lab if you can see his hip bones he is too light , if you can see bones in his spine he is too light your breeder can be a big help as to what volume of food is correct for his age and growth rate as this can vary from bloodline to bloodline as well within a breed it is very important with fast growing dogs to keep them lean while they grow and try to grow them slowly Good luck with your new baby

HI It can be done , but is a lot of hard work as you need to spend a lot of time with both the babies and often they will need you at the same time . Crate training will be your friend here as well , If you are thinking of adding more human babies in the near future it might be worth the wait as a young child pregnant mum and bouncy young lab might be an awful lot to cope with day in and day out , no one wants their puppy to be the reason they are curled up in a corner in tears after all . A lot of careful thought would be in order here I managed ok with raising a rottie baby with my 12 month old daughter many years ago but I am a routine person and very much no nonsense when it comes to kids and pups , however I did find that they would then get into trouble together what could be better for a greedy pup than being fed the hated veggies over the side of the high chair when self feeding , puppy crying also is a good one for waking little ones as well so you have crying puppy and tired crying child , one of the things that can make you curl up in a corner if it goes on for too long Wish you all the best with your choice if you feel you are up to the challenge then by all means give it a go , if you think there is any possibility that it will not work then there is no harm and a lot of good in waiting a little while , more often than not you have to wait for the right pup anyway

Ok so on the face of it these suggestions cover a lot of things that have the doggy community unhappy , are these what they are putting on the table to be adopted or are they the starting point of discussion ? I hope we are on the starting point of discussion here and that our various clubs and control bodies can make sensible submissions to get us to some thing that is workable. Looks like a bit of a knee jerk reaction without a lot of thought put into it , after all the conditions that the animals are kept in , over breeding , poor socialisation and lack if testing and health care are the true issues that we all need to affect change on , So can we make submissions on these ? how do we make submissions on these ? should we be contacting our breed club , rescue groups state bodies and putting forward well thought out and workable solutions ? Would DOL members like to create a submission ?