cavNrott

It sounds like she's training you very well Don't leave things she isn't allowed to have within her reach and invest in a crate so you can safely confine her when you can't watch her. Puppies don't know what they are allowed to chew and what they're not. Everything they can get is fair game, especially the kids fluffy toys. They love pulling the stuffing out of them. It's up to you to keep forbidden things out of her reach. When she runs away from you, you need to run in the opposite direction calling her if necessary. If you chase her she's won the game. If you're outside with her, keep her on a lead. She's a baby puppy and she doesn't know which area she is not allowed to enter. It's a good idea never to call a puppy to come to you if you know she probably won't. It will make it much harder for you to get good recall as the pup grows up if she's quite used to ignoring the 'come' command. Enjoy your pup while she is a puppy, they grow up so quickly. Make it easier for all of you by puppy proofing the house.

Maxalon was the only thing that worked for my sons dog. We tried other things, as you have but none of them worked until we put him on Maxalon.

I've actually found the opposite effect if they eat something fatty. Fat usually causes softer feces and bone causes harder feces. My dogs are mainly on BARF and the poop is usually well formed and turns white very quickly. For the bone component I do mainly feed raw chicken frames but occasionally they get lamb flap which is more fatty and that's when we see the softer feces. I've found if they have too much bone they do get a bit constipated and the poop is white and crumbly. With a BARF diet the raw meaty bones are an important part of the diet so I doubt we can forget the bones completely. The bones are also excellent for maintaining healthy, clean teeth. Bones are not used as a treat but as part of the BARF diet. What do other BARF feeders find with the bones?

Google is your friend. You will see a lot of pics of it.

And please bring him inside. He's not well enough to be outside in kennel. You need to keep an eye on him.

There's a guy in Melbourne making up BARF. He uses only fresh vegetables and minced beef with no supplements because he said everyone has their own idea of which supplements they wish to use. His prices are very reasonable and he does free home delivery. Send me a pm if you want his phone number. He does a few different varieties of food. Edited to add: EcoPet is the only dog food roll I would use as it's preservative free and contains no nasties. The only supermaret I've seen it in is IGA.

I agree with Sheridan. I like Malaseb but it must be rinsed out very throroughly...then finish with Aloveen leave in conditioner. The Malaseb can be rather drying to the coat without the conditioner.

I put a stop to humping too. It's bad dog manners and dominant behaviour we can do without, with 4 dogs in the house. The only time I ever see humping is when a visitor brings a strange dog here so I'm ready for it and stop them doing it immediately. If he wasn't humping the teddy bear I would be wondering if the girl has an infection of some type, a UTI or something else.

It's called Melbourne Veterinary Referral Centre and the telephone number is 9887 8844. Address is 70 Blackburn Road Glen Waverley.....it's opposite the emergency hospital near the corner of Blackburn and Highbury Rd Glen Waverley. Your friend will need a referral from their local vet.

BARF feeder here too and my dogs are fed twice a day. I've always believed that BARF fed dogs were supposed to be fed twice a day. With deep chested dogs I believe it's safer than giving one larger meal a day. Anything that decreases the chance of Bloat is good.

Sezy ask in the cat forum. It's a sub forum in off topic. I don't know much about cats but the cat folk in that forum will probably be able to help.

Yes, Storm I remember you going to the pound to visit Iko. You were very kind and so very helpful.

I'm sorry Spikes that it turned out the way it did. You were very good to Iko and I'm glad she had a happy life, thanks to you and you Mum. R.I.P. Iko.

Sorry but I wouldn't give any temporary pain relief that wasn't prescribed by a vet. In our case I buy from the vets the large bottle (60 tablets) of Rimadyl and use only when necessary. I would put the dog on Joint Guard because it will not only lessen the inflammation but does a pretty good job of protecting the joint so may prevent the problem from occuring in the first place.

I would put the dog on Joint Guard. Glucosamine alone really doesn't help a lot. It will take a few weeks before you see improvement but Joint Guard does work. I would also stop all ball chasing until at least some improvemnt is evident. My dog is limited to 5 throws of the ball in the leash free park. Anymore than than and she will limp after resting. She was on 7 weeks rest before I started throwing the ball for her again.

I don't understand why anyone feels the need to put their hands in a dogs foodbowl. It doesn't make sense to me. We need our dogs to trust us not to steal food from them and by messing with their food bowl it surely must make them very wary of our intentions. I strongly believe in allowing dogs to eat in peace. All my dogs are taught the 'out' command which means if I say 'out' they will spit out anything they have in their mouths. They are given a treat when they spit it out. They have no food guarding issues and I've never put my hand in their food bowl. They know if I'm near their food bowl something good will happen because that's the way it's always been for them. I will occasionally drop something in or near their bowl whilst they are eating and they show no objection. I do occasionally hand feed a rescue dog who might be a bit antsy about food. I hold the bowl while I feed them so they know that I give food rather than take it away from them. They learn very quickly that I am no threat to their food.

I'm not sure if you're asking a question about massaging his muzzle while he's eating or, as in the heading, taking away his food bowl and giving it back. Personally I would do neither. If you take the food bowl away you may make an otherwise non resource guarding dog into one who will become protective of his food. He needs to trust you not to take his food from him. I would let the dog eat in peace without any interference and make sure your daughter knows to stay away from him when he's eating his meal. efs

Wish i was in WA. Ermm Right! The job is in Adelaide and you wish you were in WA

I've never heard the word 'perving' applied to dogs. It seems your dog is being distracted by the interesting smells and activities going on around him. Nothing unusual about that. By the sound of things you need a professional to get involved in his training seeing as you are not having any success. How old is this dog and what exactly do you mean when you say the outcome will be catastrophic?

I'm not a groomer but Dru has accurately described my efforts at grooming my Cavaliers. I'm improving with experience though

Most pet food companies over estimate the amount of their product they suggest you feed. This of course sells more of their product. The proof of this is seen in the number of overweight dogs we see. My opinion of a poor quality food like Chum wouldn't be suitable to post on an open forum. The better quality foods are not found at the supermarket. Food have been discussed at length on this forum and a search should bring up a few threads for you.

Yep, he'll keep pooping and leaving puddles inside until you house train him and BTW I wouldn't be encouraging him to chase the chooks unless of course you want to be rid of them :rolleyes: I guess it won't be long before we read a post that the pup has been killing the chooks. Keep the chooks safely confined where the dog can't get to them.

Sorry noneybur but I totally disagree with you. Being the leader or Alpha has nothing to do with being physically dominant, it means that they know you are in control of resources. My dogs respect me as leader and I have never dominated them physically. The resources available to my dogs are dependent on their behaviour. If they want to go out the dog then they must sit. They want to eat they sit and wait until I give them the ok to eat. As a training technique Alpha rolling dogs went out of vogue about 20 or more years ago. It isn't necessary to get physical with dogs to gain their trust and respect. My dogs are obedience trained and they eat shoulder to shoulder without interference with eachothers food. The four of them will also line up and take a treat from me when I call their name. My dogs are allowed on the couch and the bed at my invitation. They are not 'equal' as I am the one who allows them to do that....or not... and they know it. They accept that what I say goes. They trust me to do right by them and I have their respect.

I agree with sas. Crate training is for inside dogs. Crates are not suitable containment for dogs who live outside. I have the same question. Is there a reason why this dog can't be inside with the family? Staffys are very people orientated dogs.

I think I'd be phoning the vet and ask for different antibiotics. Sometimes with UTI's getting the right a/biotic first up is a bit of a gamble. It seems the ones the vet gave you are not doing the job.