becks

I use Biogroom ear powder. Dust the hair in the ear with it andyou get good grip with your fingers. Be VERY careful if using tweezers, it only takes the dog to jerk and you can pperforate the eardrum. Pluck out all hair you can reach with your fingers that is growing from the ear canal. My dogs get it done in one session then the air can get into the ear canal. The only time ear cleaner goes into the ear is if there is a lot of wax, if the ears were overdue plucking BUT I don't clean the ears straight after plucking as this is what can sometimes upset the dogs ears and cause owners to take the dog to the vet. Like Sttrlvr I have also had experiences with dogs who haven't been plucked, an OES who had a solid ball of wax and hair blocking the ear which meant he had to be knoked out to have the ears cleaned. A shih tzu whose previous groomer hadn't plucked - nasty tempered dog!! Not surprised when I saw the state of his ears! Once he'd had them pplucked and cleaned, by the next groom he was a much nicer dog and his ears were so much better.

So what was the vets official method for peepee retraction?

I very very rarely bother to oil my blades and the chap who sharpens them for me says the blades are in great condition!

Cool water in the bath and shower over until there is enough lubricant for him to go back. Otherwise try as above

Mine also does the stare as a way of telling me she wants to go outside. It's just a way for them to get our attention, and if that doesn't work - bark!

If you want to try 2 of those remedies at once, offer the ppup a ginger biscuit about 15-30 mins before getting into the car. Travelling further forward in the car works for one of mine, as the further back in the car, the more being flung around the dog is. With another of mine, I found she settled down after several long trips down the motorway - lots of travel time without the turns of normal street driving.

remember to keep her confined until her vulva has returned to normal size, the end of bleeding is NOT the end of the season, but her fertile time and when she will be most interesting to males. How old are you planning to let her get before desexing? As was mentioned earlier, each season increases the risk of mamary cancers, pyometra.

Just put one hand on his collar so he can't jump up when you turn the clippers on. Sounds like he is using this as a distraction technique on you!

Take a step back and just stick with brushing and combing him. Most pups are fine about being clipped and he has already had one experience of this. I would still recommend that you get a trained groomer to do his next few trims so he is learning the correct way to behave, 2 novices together isn't always the best mix.

Time is the best thing, it will heal and go back to black.

He is a young baby still, give him time and you work on the basics, there is no need to be using the clippers or scissoring around his eyes yet, he's already had one trim and some minis will go several months before they have a first trim. Just keep the grooming sessions short. What are you doing to make him nervous?

I agree with Erny. I would also add, try just doing 1 sit and when he does it, go absolutley over the top with ppraise, then leave him be and go and train one one of the others or go back to making a cup of tea - whatever you were doing!

I would say to go back to basics with him and don't give him a chance to fail. If he is crying and yelping, then you shouldn't be leaving him that long. Try using a definite sound to end the stay, eg. I helped one of mine by training stays with a clicker, so they knew that my approach wasn't the end of the exercise. Do you try walking around the dog? This way you can practise a return to dog without leaving him.

They use black light on CSI type programs when looking for any bodily fluids, so blood etc from cooking could be a good explanation.

with the boiled chicken, I would throw out the water, it will have fat in from the cooking and this can cause more tummy upset.

old beads?

You can always use a baby shampoo on his face, so no suds hurt his eyes either. Bath mat to stop him slipping. Use a shower attachment to wet down and rinse with, some dogs don't like standing in water or being lowered into it plus you can't rinse the legs as thoroughly. Wet dog, mix some shampoo with water and pour over dog, rub in, then wash the face. Rinse off. Repeat if necessary. rinse and rinse again to be sure there is no shampoo. Conditioner through legs and beard, rinse again (you can mix conditioner with water before applying) Wring out, towel dry by squeezing, not rubbing as this forms mats. Blwo dry and brush. Don't make a big deal about any step, just keep it calm. When putting water over the dog, keep it close to the body, they seem to accept it better then showering at a distance to the skin.

I have a bitch on Incurin and she is the same old, same old girl. She is on an alternate day dose. I have another bitch who takes a herb supplement and this does the trick for her, but not the younger bitch. I have used Propalin with my old mini, (she's been dead several years now, so I wouldn't call it a new treatment!) Propalin worked great for her, sometimes the treatment had to be increased at the time when she would have been due in season (we did this by giving her Stilboestrol), then after 3 weeks we could go back to normal. With this problem it seems a bit of trial and error, getting one to work and then seeing if you can ease off on the dosage.

A lot of food companies will send out samples, enough for you to see if your dog likes the food but not enough to see how well your dog will do on it.

He might be itchy with loose hair in his coat - same as when you come out of the hairdresser and he is also getting used to his coat feeling different. Yes, it is possible for midges to bite under your clothes and go up trouser legs etc. Give the pup a bath and see how he goes.

I use Frontline on my minis (a friend did have 2 of her minis react to it) but I use the spray instead of the drops. Is there any black specs in the coat or on the belly? If you see any put some damp, white tissue over them and see if you are left with a rusty red mark - that will be flea droppings. It would be odd for the whole family to be getting bitten and not be able to see any fleas on the pup. I would be inclined to just bath the pup first (shampoo around the neck and then start shampoo at the back end and wirk forwards, then any fleas will move towards the head end and be visible in the shampoo layer around the neck. Could there by bitting insects outside and you are all going out with the pup to toilet train and getting bitten that way?

Yes, this is correct. Puppies get antibodies from their mum's colostrum. While they last, these protect the pup against infectious diseases, but also interfere with vaccination. Maternal antibody protection is lost between 8 and 12 weeks in most puppies, though it can occasionally be lost as early as 6 weeks, or as late as 16 weeks. It's important to vaccinate the pup at least once after these maternal antibodies are gone, so the pup develops effective immunity from the vaccine. Earlier vaccines are given just in case the pup loses maternal antibody protection sooner, as you don't want your pup to be susceptible to parvo etc for longer than he has to be! I'm not sure what the C5 and C3 refer to, as I'm in a different country and we don't use that nomenclature here. I'll personally be vaccinating my next pup 2 - 3 times for parvo, distemper and adenovirus, then only every 3 years after that (and only then if the titres are lost). But check with your own vet, they know your local conditions best. With the new vaccines, these OVER-RIDE the mothers antibodies, this is why they can now be given earlier and have the last vax done at 10 weeks. this is what the Guide Dogs Assoc over here use, so they can get the pups out and socialising at an earlier age. This is something I asked my vet about when the youngest had vax done. with my pups, they are wormed at 2 weekly intervals until 3 months old, then every month until 6 months old, then every 3 months. The fortnightly wormers are done with Panacur liquid and then they go onto Drontal (we have no need to use heart worm treatment in the UK)

I've spoken to the RC rep about senior foods (as I have a 10 year old giant) and their advice was to stick with the normal adult variety, they had an ancient Chi still on normal adult food. I still have my 10 year old on normal adult food and she is a correct weight and fit and well on it - only just retired from the show ring after a RCC at Crufts this year.

I avoid cheese as more then a few pieces gives them the runs

Mine get apples, like with any treat, it is an occasional thing, not a regular part of the diet. the dogs also love pears. I've not offered peach, but i wouldn't be giving them a whole one anyway, so no need to worry about the stone, lol. There are lots of healthy treats out there from all the dried animal bits, veg, fruit etc.