becks

The 10 will give a very tight clip, not something I would use on a dogs body unless the coat was matted, the 7f does a much nicer length. I just use the 10 for ears, bottoms and belly. When you buy clippers, you usually get a 10 blade for free, so you may as well get the 7f as well.

Grooming scissors are much sharper then the average pair of scissors. Proper ones (not the cheapo pet shop type) will keep a sharp edge for a long time. Blunt scissors will just trap and fold the hair over the blade instead of cutting it, cheapy scissors tend to not cut well and give a choppy look to the trim. I use straight scissors Roseline 7inch for legs double sided thinners for blending roseline 5 inch scissors for trimming the feet ( saves blunting the good pair!) and for between the eye brows. curved scissors for shaping feet and legs and forechest - though not really necessary, they do make the job easier. combination comb (mine has extra deep teeth to get into the coat better to lift it up for scissoring) clippers, I use my trusty Oster A5 single speed. Blades 7f for body (not the 7 which gives a choppy clip) and a 10 or 15 for the ears (depending how thick the hair is) Also forceps for pulling out the ear hair + ear powder nail clippers and/or dremmel grooming table + stand/noose hairdryer shampoo and conditioner - you must only clip a clean and dry dog or the scissors and blades won't last as long Do you have any dog shows near where you live? Trade stands should be selling grooming equipment and you can go and hold various types of scissors and feel which make is balanced in your hand and comfortable (eg for me the japanese scissors are not good as the finger holes are to small, the roselines have bigger finger holes but I also need inserts to keep them steady when being used)

There is no need to add milk or extra supplements to the pups diet if you are already feeding a balanced diet. Adding these extras can do more harm then good.

You need to give them the time and space to sort things out for themselves. The more you step in and try to correct one, the more you are upsetting the dogs way of sorting out the pecking order.

Try posting a photo of it and see if we all think it is a normal guy thing or something that needs further thought!

I just clip the dogs nails and finish off with a dremel, it can take to long otherwise as I never get around to doing it often enough with the dremel

scissor bite has the teeth in the lower jaw sitting behind the top teeth (like in us) leve bite the botton and top insissor meet.

With the pro driers there is more air going through the dryer, so the hair is dried by a mix of heat and speed of air flow. Then there are blasters which blow at very high speeds to 'blast' the water from the coat. If your dog isn't keen on your hair dryer, check you aren't holding it to close to the body or aiming at one spot as both these can burn the dog. Some dogs don't like the noise, so might need the face leaving to air dry. If a dog can't cope with a hand drier, the pro driers are going to be more scary for him. Just be firm and careful with your own drier and he'll get the idea it's OK

Spaniel bowls certainly don't slow them down, just keeps their ears out of the food.

Which dog are you talking about that needs these things doing to it? How old is the old dog?

Mine have managed corn cobs without any problem, they chewed them up before swallowing. As it was yesterday when it happened, I would just keep and eye on things to make sure things are 'moving' as normal.

Dogs can play fetch and still find games to entertain themselves with as well. Some dogs are more toy orientated then others, some prefer to play with other dogs or with a person.

If you are feeding kibble, try scattering the food over the floor, it will take longer to eat.

I'd start her on a bit of raw and then once she is used to that, swop over the kibble.

With a mini schnauzer, you also want to take notice of the fat contents, some dried foods are have to much fat for this breed and you need to be careful as some can get pancreatitis.

mine get cow feet as they can't tolerate the fat in pig ears. Plaque-off is another alternative or fragaria if you want to go down the herbal/homeopathic route.

I'd rarther use the 'proper' worm treatment from a vets/vet pharmacy, i've known a few people treat pups with the cheap wormers and then have to go out and get the proper stuff when the 1st lot didn't get rid of the worms. With treats, I prefer either fresh veg, meat or the dried products, Ikeep the prepared 'sweeties' to a minimum

A friend of mine has an adult dog who broke his back leg just by jumping up to greet a friend, he landed awkwardly. But he is fine now and back in the show ring.

The DAP spray is great for using in the car or out on walks (one of mine has been using it sprayed on a bandana when she goes out)

Just a thought, would the 27 biscuits of that food be for a complete diet for the day? Any you are adding all the others into the diet as well?

If you are hand stripping, I would also strip the ears, use thinners around the bottom and a 10 on the belly.

With the cream on the nose, the best thing is to put it on and then feed her straight away so she is busy thinking about something other then what is on her nose (I've done this with an elderly dog I had and it healed up within days)

As the others have said, it isn't worth the risk toleave the collars on the dogs when at home.

Some dogs will need their anal glands emptying every so often, no matter what diet they are fed.

I'd try a piriton to ease the itch and a lampshade collar to stop him aggravating the area.