Cosmolo

Is anyone aware whether regulations are going to be changed regarding vaccinations at boarding kennels, training centres, daycare centres etc. At this stage we have to make the choice that either we vaccinate and our dogs can go to these places- or we don't and the dogs can not.

If he has a place at AAPS to go to- we'd assess him at no charge.

Thanks everyone. My bank account is going to hate me though. Is there anywhere you can get Susan Garretts 2x2 DVD cheaper than $70? Do you watch it more than once?

I agree with you sas. I'm just cautious to suggest pts without an assessment because what some people consider to be aggression, actually is not. I have seen dogs labelled aggressive at surrender who- are young puppies mouthing, are responding to some kind of pain, have owners who lied- etc. ETA persephone- thats why formal assessment is important- it determines these things far better than being given an age, a few sentences of information and going from there.

Before rehoming i think its a good idea to get proper assessments of health and temperament. If the vet was happy to put the dog under a GA- does this indicate his general health is good? I would have thought so. I have seen 15 year old dogs that are very 'old' and 15 year old dogs whose health and temperament suggest they are a whole lot younger. My parents currently have a 15 year old who behaves 'younger' than our 11 year old. She would definitely pass shelter assessments for health, despite her age. The aggression of course needs to be properly assessed before a decision is made too. In saying that, generally speaking , i don't buy the argument that because there are plenty of younger dogs around, older dogs should not be rehomed. Some people want older dogs, some people need older dogs. Regardless of age, if an owner makes the decision to rehome and the dog passes its assessments- i don't have issue with the rehoming. I guess they're the issues being raised though- did the owner make the decision, and would the dog pass a reasonable assessment.

I have seen many older dogs at AAPS who have dentals before adoption- of course yu'd need to check but its worth the phone call and explaining the situation. Ask to speak to Sue.

Contac AAPS in Keysborough- they rehome older dogs on a regular basis.

What happened to the stitches- don't know if they would have been disolvable 15 years ago? Undescended testicles may have been the case.

Thanks guys- yes definitely getting a heavy duty tunnel- thats why i want to check and make sure its correct!! :D What length would you suggest?

I am ordering a tunnel from Purple Pig in Sunshine and they don't have any of the material in stock so it will be hard for me to make sure i get the right thing. Has anyone ordered from Purple Pig or Plasticoat that can confirm for me the exact name of the ordered product for an agility tunnel? Thank you!!

Thanks everyone- i am looking at some of the suggestions now and a few others! Will let you know what we decide and if its any good!

Google search The Canine Classroom- i think they consult around Brisbane. Or Jane Harper.

Pretty sure Wags books has them- saw them at the NDTF conference.

Having just found out that the best pet friendly holiday place we have stayed at has been sold, i am after a pet friendly place to stay. Needs to be no more than 2-3 hours drive from Melbourne. We need a place that- Will allow 5 dogs- 4 big, 1 small. Need to be allowed inside Has some nice walking trails nearby- driving distance away is fine but i think this rules out the Grampians as dogs aren't allowed in the park area at all. Isn't insanely expensive I know its a big ask and if there is nothing like that around we will go and stay at Best Friend but we'd love to try somewhere different!

What is your favourite agility DVD and why? And where is the cheapest place to source it if you know!

Unless you see the dog 24 hours a day, you don't know what they do with the dog. Keeping a dog outside is not an offence either. I have inside dogs but i understand that it is not everyone's choice. My neighbours virtually never see my dogs out and about- and i have 5- as we walk them at very odd hours and take them with us at different times. 2 of them have to be locked up when we're not at home (allergies in one- can't spend long periods of time on the lawn and joint issues in the other- too much time outside and he is cripple) so they have a bedroom at the front of the house they stay in. I'd be pretty annoyed if someone saw them in there a few times and assumed the dogs were neglected.

I think we should define G/S/P too- a very well known positive trainer was heard to remark recently that if the dog is struggling with a lure method, a 'little tickle on the shoulder blades' can be helpful. Is that G/ S/ P? I just don't understand why placing a dog into a position is such a bad thing. We're not talking about pinning a dog to the ground- at least i am not! I always provide a huge reward for the dog so its not G/S/P instead of food rewards etc. Corvus the reason why i find dogs that have 2 methods used can be more reliable is because there are fewer cues that occur every time- when i use a lure and G/S/P combo the dog is not reliant on my lure nor are they reliant on the hand placement/ hands on. I want the dog to respond to the verbal command only rather than other body language etc. (Its not because the first method didn't work at all and in most cases i do these things simultaneously, mini session 1 with lure, mini session 2 with G/S/P, mini session 3 a bit of both- this might be in 1-3 days. It teaches the dog that no matter which way you get there, respond with this position to this verbal command.) JMO

Lots of dogs can't target right away- especially if they have had no training before and simply don't understand the learning concept- i find that with these dogs using G/S/P to give me the opportunity to reward really quickly, multiple times- is easier for them to understand initially. I find the dogs that are most reliable with their drops had at least 2 different methods used with them at varying stages.

That method is exactly like what we do with horses- its much easier to explain to someone when they have experience with horses!

Great news!!

I wouldn't release the pressure if she has a hissy fit. Teaches her that lying down or resisting gets the pressure released. But i wouldn't necesarily set it up that way to start with either. At dinner time, put the bowl down, pups lead on and lead her to the bowl- if you're not in a hurry to lead train for exercise etc, i'd probably do this for a week or so first before moving to the next step. I then like to teach pups to give to pressure- rewarding any step in the right direction with the release of the gentle pressure on a flat collar. When lures, dog friends and lead dragging have failed- this would be the next thing i would try.

Keep the surface that you use indoors and outdoors consistent and it shouldn't be a problem- i have a number of clients do this who live in apartments. Do you have a secure, puppy proof backyard though? If you do, is there a reason the pup couldn't stay there while you're out? Crate in play pen when puppy is in play pen is a good idea.

So you don't think an owner's ability/ willingness etc should influence the training done with a dog? I used to think that too- but my experience leads me to disagree with you on that one.

I like to use both- i find its much easier to get rid of the lure if the dog has done a little G/S/P and some dogs prefer G/S/P just as others prefer to be lured. I like shaping for it as well but many owners are a little impatient or their timing is not ideal so luring and G/S/P are better options.

BB- you're way off the mark in terms of what kind of trainer I am! My whole point in this thread is that its not just about the dog- its about the owner, the family- the complete picture. Physical aversives should not be recommended when an owner is unable to apply them, unwilling to apply them or would apply them inconsistently. The trainer who has seen the dog in this case has made that call and i don't believe second guessing them- given that they have seen the dog AND that they are NOT a 'purely positive trainer' (not open to correct use of aversives) - is the right thing to do. BB- "Huski, behaviours that resurface do so because the appropriate behaviour isn't conditioned properly, or the unwanted behaviour hasn't been dealt with appropriately and the dog is confused where the boundaries are. It's either innapropriate training or the owner/handler failing to carry out the trainers instructions correctly. Bottom line is, it's not the fault of the dog. " This is my whole point- you are assuming that every owner can be clear and consistent with the use of aversives and my experience tells me that just isn't true. Doesn't mean they shouldn't be used. Does mean care should be taken- especially when you advocate things like choking a dog out on a public forum when you don't know the dog OR the handler. EDIT to clarify- i don't think choking a dog out is EVER appropriate but thats not the point i am making here. ETA- i have used and continue to use e collars and so don't feel the need to go and talk to a herding trainer about how an e collar works. I have recommended a dog pts ONCE in my career and resent the insinuation that i am an 'escape route trainer' who would recommend this on a regular basis. You sure do make alot of assumptions BB!