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Puppy Pulling On Lead Solutions


ajj_32
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Hi all,

Just wondering how you got your puppy to stop pulling on the lead. My 6 month old Dalmatian gets way too excited on walks and will pull to get to smells, dogs, people etc. At dog school we get them walking in the other direction and then offer rewards when they are walking in the right direction without pulling which only works for a little while but she gets over the treats.

I won't use a correction collar but anyone tried the Ezydog check mate collar? It looks a lot more gentle than a correction collar but seems it would still give a little correction when she pulls.

After any advice before she gets even stronger!!

Thanks so much

Amanda

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I can only speak of my own experience but I did have the same problem. There's lots of approaches so hopefully you find what works for you and your dog.

I ended up getting lessons from someone and it was great to have an outside view of what I had been doing wrong (basically everything). I'm not saying this training technique is right but it worked for me.

I had to go back to basics and treat\praise for being in the right position, at heel. I had to stop dead and UHUH if she surged forward and she had to be back at my side before we moved forward again. Lots of praise for walking at my side. I also found it useful to use 'go sniff' as a reward for a good job so she had a moment to sniff and look around, then back to business.

Im not too hard core though and half our walk now is ranging on a loose lead but when I say heel and tap my leg she moves back to position. Its been hard work and you have to be very consistent. Even when normally good, if she sees something interesting ahead she'll start walking quicker than me. If I stop dead she has to wall backward to get to my side so we can progress forward again. I can see she tries hard to have self control and walk at my pace although she still struggles at times especially at the beginning of the walk lol. Mostly she's great though and its such a joy loose leash walking compared to the yoyo I had!

Good luck with your pooch :)

Edited by Roova
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I don't know what the checkmate collar is. I use a front attach harness (eg. easy walker) or I have also seen a Black Dog head halter in use which is specifically designed around pulling.

But those tools will just help with making the problem easier to deal with. To actually get nice loose leash walking you need to train it.

Lots of different ways to train it and you sort of have to use what works best for you and your dog. Some of the things I have done...

- crazy walking (constantly changing direction in the hopes that the dog stays close to you as it doesn't know where it is going next)

- red light, green light. When the leash is tight you act like there is a red light (stop), when the leash is loose you act like there is a green light (go). You don't need to pair this up with anything, it is based on the idea that the dog wants to get somewhere so eventually learns that if the lead is tight they will never get there. You need to be patient with this one!

- rapid rewarding. When the dog is walking with a loose lead you reward - constantly.

I actually found that rapid rewarding for correct position worked best in general. But rewards have to be really good if you are out and about, like roast chicken type good!

One of my puppy school teachers taught her dog using the red light, green light method - she spent 2 hours doing one lap of a football field!!! But, it was 2 hours well spent as the dog never pulled on lead!!

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My 6 month old Dalmatian gets way too excited on walks and will pull to get to smells, dogs, people etc.

Every time your dog pulls and gets to where she wants to go - you've just rewarded the pulling and your dog pulls more - cos it works.

So it's worth being really super persistent - especially with Dalmatians who really check that you mean it - often.

The ezydog check collar looks like a limited slip collar or variation on martingale. So it's still a correction based or punishment based collar. The only time I think a dog might need one of those is if it's very good at getting out of a normal flat collar. You can set them up so when they're tight they don't fit over the dog's head - good for dogs with big necks and a habit of slipping out of the collar. It's better than a slip chain too but not as good as training nice loose lead.

So while your dog doesn't really understand what loose lead means - you need a lot of treats for loose lead, if you get this right - you won't be able to get the dog to pull at all, and when the dog is stuck to you, you start looking for "average or better" and only rewarding when the dog is doing their best job. Not when it's pull a bit come back a bit - not paying that one, got to be all nice loose - and gradually build up the duration or time the lead is loose. Again - stop the second the lead goes tight. I often ask my dog "are you pulling" and she remembers her job and gives me some slack. She has to come back to me of her own accord before I will proceed.

There are still a few university grade distractions she doesn't cope well with yet (running cats right in front of her) but I can get to the park and back without having my arm pulled out of its socket.

So your reward for loose lead - is stepping forward and your "correction" is stopping or changing direction. To me the change direction - takes the choice away from the dog. You need to get the dog thinking about what a good choice is and then rewarding when she makes a good choice.

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I'm a self confessed expert on this having (1) undertaken doggy training, and (2) having sat in on a course of child psychology and learning...

...ok, so not so much of an expert...

The key is called "toggling". One part of the brain says "Yeah, there's something exciting over there so I'll pull on the lead" and the other part is reason, "actually I know I should walk alongside my owner calmly". Teaching a child (and a dog) at a young age to toggle between these two parts of the brain is fundamental to their intelligence and rationale as a grown up. i.e. kids who don't learn to toggle at a young age become serial killers... ;)

Walk your dog in the park on the lead. Pass by something exciting, like another dog, and when they start to pull towards it you lure him back with a treat. Make him realise his owner's actually pretty cool to hang around, so instead of pulling away he'll think twice and stay by you (in the hope of getting a treat).

It takes time and persistence with a pup. At 8 months mine is nearly there... I think...

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Anyone using, or advocating the use of "no pull" harnesses, needs to read this article

Training dogs not to pull on the lead is bread and butter work for dog trainers. My advice if you are not achieving success in a group class is to get a recommendation for a decent trainer and pay for a one on one lesson. I expect you'd have a "eureka" moment within 10-15 minutes of DECENT instruction.

There isn't a tool on the planet a motivated dog cannot pull on. Training using the correct tools is the key to success.

Edited by Haredown Whippets
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I suggest the use of a balance harness with double sided lead from black dog for the training period.

http://www.blackdog.net.au/dog-harnesses/balance-harness/balance-training-pack-large

There's a really cool video below from the Black Dog folks on how to utilise the techniques and they are very effective, providing you with a long term solution. I have used this technique many times with both my own dogs and fosters and it's been fool proof for me.

https://www.youtube.com/embed/POAo6qNLWys?rel=0

Note the balance harness doesn't replace a standard harness and is not designed for restraining dogs in cars or anything like it. I use the balance harness purely for the training period, then switch to a standard black dog harness.

Edited by BullBreedBoy
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The tool is nowhere near as important as the training. At the end of the day its the training that stops the pulling! :)

Your instructor at training should be the best bet to show you how to do this. A lot of it is timing.

It is really important to be consistent, to practice in low distraction places such as your house, to really build value for being by your side, and to ensure that she is not being rewarded for pulling. If you let her pull you over to scents or other dogs she is being rewarded for pulling.

It's also important to make those distractions work for you rather than against you. If your pup likes sniffing you can teach her that she can get permission to sniff by sitting and looking at you (you then give her the ok to sniff).

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First & foremost as the handler you simply need to be more interesting ,treats are a great tool but treats will still only work as well as the handler makes it,so many people are so boring & uninteresting when training there puppies,there voice tone drowns out in the "who cares" category as the same old same is said over again & again & the puppy gets so switched off the rest of the world is more interesting .

Many training classes are slow,boring & repetitive ,little minds switch off quickly .

Check chains aren't evil any tool can cause harm ,personally i hate harnesses & see to many dog owners who think there gentler & end up with a out of control dog they can't control.

Go to a dog show & you will see lots of puppies on chains showing & behaving a treat BUT it comes down to the handlers personality as well.

All my show dogs are shown on check chain style leads except i use fabric ,

Lead training should be joyful & exciting & most people make the mistake of being to nice as babies.

I agree with others get a good trainer that can assess your mistakes or ask someone at your club to help you one on one as your having troubles ,a good club should have no issues .

Did you do puppy pre school?

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First & foremost as the handler you simply need to be more interesting ,treats are a great tool but treats will still only work as well as the handler makes it,so many people are so boring & uninteresting when training there puppies,there voice tone drowns out in the "who cares" category as the same old same is said over again & again & the puppy gets so switched off the rest of the world is more interesting .

Many training classes are slow,boring & repetitive ,little minds switch off quickly .

Check chains aren't evil any tool can cause harm ,personally i hate harnesses & see to many dog owners who think there gentler & end up with a out of control dog they can't control.

Go to a dog show & you will see lots of puppies on chains showing & behaving a treat BUT it comes down to the handlers personality as well.

All my show dogs are shown on check chain style leads except i use fabric ,

Lead training should be joyful & exciting & most people make the mistake of being to nice as babies.

I agree with others get a good trainer that can assess your mistakes or ask someone at your club to help you one on one as your having troubles ,a good club should have no issues .

Did you do puppy pre school?

<<like>>>

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Thanks for the advice everyone. It might be time to get a trainer in as I want to nip this habit in the bud!!!

Seriously, try the balance harness before you pay for a trainer. I guarantee you will succeed if you follow the directions and you'll have the satisfaction of knowing you did it yourself.

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Problem is- every unsuccessful training attempt makes dogs more difficult to train so it really is worthwhile to get a trainer to help you. I often use front attaching harnesses but it is crucial they are used correctly to minimise any risk to the dog and ensure the actual principles of loose lead walking are at the forefront of any training.

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Problem is- every unsuccessful training attempt makes dogs more difficult to train so it really is worthwhile to get a trainer to help you. I often use front attaching harnesses but it is crucial they are used correctly to minimise any risk to the dog and ensure the actual principles of loose lead walking are at the forefront of any training.

And using tools the wrong way makes them harder to use the correct way should you need them later.

It never ever hurts to ask for help from a good trainer.

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Problem is- every unsuccessful training attempt makes dogs more difficult to train so it really is worthwhile to get a trainer to help you. I often use front attaching harnesses but it is crucial they are used correctly to minimise any risk to the dog and ensure the actual principles of loose lead walking are at the forefront of any training.

And using tools the wrong way makes them harder to use the correct way should you need them later.

It never ever hurts to ask for help from a good trainer.

yes. Esp the GOOD trainer bit ;) ajj - ask on here , give us a rough location , and I'm sure someone will be recommended for you :)

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I have always found the best way to stop a dog pulling on lead is to teach it to heel without a lead first. If a dog pulls and the handler pulls back it makes the problem worse. The handler needs to learn to be gentle and sensitive with the lead. I think it's like a horse rider with good hands. The lead (reins) is not there for control; it is for communication.

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I don't know where Greensborough is.

But it seems Cosmolo does dog training and is in Victoria.

http://www.underdogtraining.com.au/

These are two more I've seen good reports and recommendations about. If they can't help, they might be able to recommend someone who can.

Melbourne

Erny (Judi Buchan)

http://www.prok9.com.au/

Does Cranbourne, Frankston etc ie East Side.

Nekhbet (Julie)

http://inlinek9.webs.com/

Geelong based does up to Bendigo/Ballarat

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