Dogsfevr

our minis have gulped chicken wings/necks & passed out .They dont chew them they just swallow. putting a tennis ball in can help or any large odd shaped item,you can change it around if you wish

If your yard is safe pup should be allowed outside now. All our pups spend hours outside from 6 weeks on with no issues at all & they are raised in the house. When you collected your pup it will have spent many hrs outside before it came home most likley from 6 weeks onwards. Your pup isnt a little fry & unless your garden is dangerous the weather is perfect for leaving it outside for good spells now. Being a in the pen for that time wont allow it to get muscle condituon & life experience.Pups need to learn from touch & feel & this is the age to allow it. AS for home alone hundreds of young pups & dogs do this every day & they survive very well.Make sure all is safe BUT until you allow it to happen whilst your at home it will be harder on the pup when the time comes.You have the perfect situation working from home to allow this pup to get use to outside on its on where you can check & bring in/out as you please BUT when you suddenly want it to stay more & more your pup may find it very hard to deal with

I would toss the can,not only expensive to feed doesnt do much in the weight/condition section as a sole diet. The only time we use it is as a teaser to get old/young or recovering dogs to eat but never as a sole diet. Some dogs are just simply skinny,some a very hard to maintain weight & yes some its a family trait

Our puppies at 6 week(mini schnauzers) run an acre,pups develop through mental stimulation.Touch,smell & sight. They need to experience life to learn.If your yard is safe then there are no issues & if your yard isnt safe then it will be a danger for life. You will find that pups from most breeders have experienced so much before they go to there new homes & then the new owners panic & restrict what is normal to them. They are longer are able to run about outside & the backyard ends up being a bigger novelty . My new pup at 4 months would have gone retarded if not allowed outside to be the gundog it is.He sleeps on my bed with the other boys BUT spends all day outside playing,self exercising,hunting birds ,all part of health maintance aswell.Pups that arent able to run about arent using there muscles & conditioning themselves for there growing body. "It doesn't sound like a huge amount of time in the pen to me " They way i read is it spends alot of time in the pen except for toilet breaks & play times & then in the bathroom for the night. I dont read it as spending a good deal out ?? Maybe im wrong .

To be honest she needs more time out of the pen & walking about. She doesnt pick when its time to come back inside allow her to be independant outside more even in these early days

Dachies are barkers by nature ,They have to be vocal to do there work(alert handlers to the badger hole),the std longs though where actually created as water retrievers hence there more gundog like nature

Persist but how much time is she actually in the pen in relation to running around outside?? Your puppy at 9 weeks should be spending a good decent time outside alone if your yard is safe.Pup is most likley getting frustrated so you need to make sure you dont create a playpen phobia do to it being over used.

If she has inflamed ears that can transfer to eyes.Teething can also do horrid things & cause redness & sore eyes. You can buy liquid gel tears from the chemist & use that to increase the lubrication at this time. Ear mites are easily fixed & but are a pain. Diet can play a part but there are also breed specific needs that one must be aware off

I have owned a std smooth & handled in the ring all the other varities. The std Longs by far have the best nature & are more laidback,less demanding & great all round dogs The std smooths are very aloof,brilliant guard dogs,tend to be more one person but truly devoted to there family. Mini smooths should havea very biddable nature & not be afriad off starngers. The wires are clowns & luv life. There are a number off excellent breeders in WA but pups are usually sold before there born, If you want to see all the breeders & there dogs the best place would be the royal show sat 4oct.You will have many to see & touch. The WA dachie club held there champ show about 2 weeks ago plus the hound club show which would have been a good viewing place, There isnt as many shows coming up soo the royal will have the best turnout. In WA all pups must be registered but we dont have to sell them with papers. Weight is very important in dachies as is good exercise & not over jumping.The spine is there biggest enemy . Dachies should never be treated as precious flowers.these are powerful working breeds who hold all there bold character & allowed to be spoilt you will have a horrible monster on your hands. They can be very yappy & snappy if not socialized & given activity. The std & minis are nore vocal than the longs. I can highly suggest Searow kennels listed below,i have handled there dogs & they have great natures & good breed type

The thing is these things arent once & awhile type deals.My dogs go every 2 months or more if needed. Its about maintaining whats there all the time not when its broken

my current large breed pup is on eagle pack holistic giant formula.I have never raised a pup on this so its my test run.So far all looks good. I do add raw etc etc

We tell all our puppy owners not to buy anything except the basics until you have pup & can match there size to the product.When you collect pup take friend or family member & then purchase the right harness for pups size

There is no right/wrong way.Breeds plays a big part . My large breeds get large breed puppy to a few months then onto adult plus raw.Good diet with no supplements

The groomers arm is only good to a certain point.you learn to be creative with your clothes & aprons

Giant schnauzers babies arent small it will fit into a harness but dont rely on all being great.Some can get out of them easy peasy so pick your brand & quality. All ours are crated normally

You could try muzzling the poodle & brushing out in small doses.If he is very skinny he may have low pain level which will make the brushing harder than it is. The legs is most likely from the bandages some vets use if he was on a drip at all. If the knots are around the test area & if trimmed back wont make much difference then i would clip the area to cover those knots as it will grow back & if getting tested again the vets will most likely clip higher up from the area used. If you have a soft slicker brush use that on the ears to gently work away the knots. With scissors gently splice the knots which means get as much of the knot area de matted & then in the bulk area use scissors or a nife to splice through the hair in the direction of the coat,do alittle & gently pull apart & do again & gently pull apart.You should end up with very little hair removed & without it looking trimmed or hacked.

I agree wait for the owners .If all else fails find a GOOD groomer who will work the coat well. A sick dog laying around doesnt take long to matt up.

I dont like stand dryers alone. For me it must have a a hose attachment so i can blow to all areas plus brush. The stands can be fine aslong as you either train the dog to lay down so you can dry the underneath . The cannister/cyclinder ones are on the clipperworld site(oldfield) . If your currently using a hand held just think how you use it & how close you get to certain areas(underbellyetc) & then determine which dryer would suit what your after . For my setters i use the liberty stand dryer with hose. We also have an oldfield stand & super cannister one which i dont use on the setters as i find them to powerful & the blow the coat too much & dries it to quickly BUT they are super for sibes, goldies ,labs etc etc. I want power but not too much.if its to powerful it swirls the coat around to much & causes all sorts of issues so its a case of the right dryer with the right pwoer for what breeds one has.In my view anyway

My hand helds are Parlux brands 3200 or 3500(just released) . The canister dryers are fine for drying.For long coats though i do prefer to have a hose & not hands free

okay i have top notch stand dryers & a super human hand held.I can dry the same dog in the same time with both the only difference is the dog ones are easier to hold,work with & i have more options with there use. Should add my hand held cost about $180 & is one when used fully for over 2 hrs

red tinged ends are due to being sun burnt,black shampoo wont fix this

Rolling a coat can only be donme after you have achieved a good coat. With our schnauzers we stripped bald & its done over a few weeks.Back first then a week latter,kneck/bum week latter head,tail & any other pieces. As the coat comes through you must work on it to maintain that coat for aslong as possible & if your very lucky & havea super coat you can roll it BUT you must do it weekly for it to look & be worthwhile

as a groomer we wouldnt do it.many do as they charge ridiculous prices & its a money maker . Whilst some clients may like others may loathe it & you need to weigh up the type of advertising you want from doing this.It would be a topic that could backfire business wise or draw clients that arent regular but just want there dogs dyed when they feel like it I will say though i dont have a problem if its done to promote a cause & it does get the attention of people whether they like it or not.

Breeds such asa Airedales,Lakelands,wire foxie,border terriers,griffon,schnauzers etc et all have coats that for the showring require handstripping

Hand stripping depends on the coat & whether you are working on rolling the coat. In our breed hand stripping means all hair out to bald skin