Dogsfevr

Okay dogs dont growl for no reason so something is happening to make the pup feel the need to act this way. Is the dog being picked up correctly,are you over picking the dog up??Are you picking it up when its asleep?/What are the kids doing to the dog ?/Does the pup have a timeout area away from the kids?? Many people feel the need to over manhandle puppies,picking them up,smooching into there faces(the humans) & just overwhelmning the pup. Dogs are no different to people over fussing & constant in your face touching can be all too much for some dogs & inwhich case you need to take a back step & go back to the basic again.Stop picking the pup up,encourage its behaviour to be on the ground so it learns to be secure on the floor especially with kids involved.You have to address the kids with the pup or set up an area for pup to have its space & you need to start obedience.Your pup is acting just like your kids & until trained otherwise it will do those things especailly in a hyped up environment. Dachie chick hitting will achieve nothing except make whats happening now even worse & the next swipe will result in you being bitten & a dachie will have no qualms about protecting itself with its mouth & it will stand up for itself with each hit,you will not win the battle that way & at present you have adog that your scared off which means bigtime diaster. Your partner also needs to realize this dog has big issues & if both dont address the problem with new human actions & pack leadership issues you will have a very aggressive dachie that will most likely end up PTS,Trust me i have been around dachies way to long & seen the worse of the breed & the damage they can do. Dachies arent fiesty but there tough ,they shouldnt be agrressive . I dare say your partner rough handles around its face & the hitting of the face has made it very face shy & is reacting to protect itself from the too actions. You too need to go back to basics & start re educating yourself & the dachie otherwise it wont grow of it . You need to ask yourself when did it start doing this & what may have been the trigger.I presume the pup never showed signs of this when picked up??

Sounds like your tyipcal teenage male GSD.Desexing can make a big difference even now.It sounds like he was a gem as a baby maybe the training & quality time took a backseat & now the dog is fighting for attention.Some dogs thrive on being told off because they get a form of attention. Have you contacted the breeder & asked there advice or dsicussed the issues your having??If so what did they say. I do agree with others though its time to make the big decisions you either need to put yourself out more to help make your dog a great pet for the next 12 yrs or put up with the problems or seek the breeders help in rehoming,some breeders will take them back. I gather this dog isnt allowed in the house?? He sounds like a very frustrated dog competing for attention & leadership

Excelpet flea liquadator works a treat,had many clients use it after no success with other products plus the treatment of other areas. If your dog is prone to fleas then i would be making sure each wash is also a flea wash .malaseb is only good for a set purpose not a stop itch as such . Personally any itchy dogs we get in we use either head/shoulders or selsum .Also may be use a flaxseed supplement,Melrose omega pet makes a granule one which is very good & palatable.

The dog doesnt now how to be independant,he doesnt have boundries & doesnt understand why he cant do things. Personally i would never tie a dog outside the shop especially in a dog that finds it so distressing at this point.My main reason is dogs should never be left tied unattended because the dog could bite,be stolen ,damage itself in the lead or be teased by a passer by.To me tieing a dog outside is like saying to a 2 yr old sit there ill be back. I wouldnt be getting a second dog until you have sorted the issues at here ,i would aslo consider making a seperate area for the dog/s when it comes to school.Dogs need to learn that they cant be involved in everything & above all they dont need to be involved in everything. I would also say you need to treat him like a dog,we all love our dogs but you cannot make them into humans or little people. Unfortunately i see alot of the spoodles in boarding & alot have insecure issues due to the fact both breeds have very different natures & needs & when the 2 are crossed things go wrong.

Ask your breeder dont get caught in the trap of asking the vet,they will flog you stuff that is overpriced & not always the best suited to your breed. All wormers dont need to be purchased from the vet you can use good old exelpet from the supermarkets. Infact the supermarket range of flea/tick/heartworms/all wormers are more than suitable & well priced. Right that down on your ask the breeder list,the breeder will tell you what schedule the pup is on for worming so just follow through. Some breeds can react to some of the sentinal,advantage/advocate etc so again ask your breed. Personally with our dogs we dont use the all in ones.If the dogs dont have fleas we dont treat them ,we do heartworm seperate & worming seperate. The only time i use an all in one is when i fly east to dogshows & due to there being other animals on the flights that may have bugs. Dont rush out all these things are easy to purchase after you have spoken to the breeder

C7 is only useful for certain areas . I wouldnt be using it as dogs can react to Lepto . I would be asking the vet if they vaccinate 6 week olds with c7 because i cannot believe a vet would be stupid enough to do c7 only. Otherwise find another vet & tell them why you are doing so

I would check with your local council about poultry & what the owners are expected to do. Stickfast are the worst & if there chooks are infested then they most certainly should be addressing the issue especially if there spreading around to all.

Actually i do now of incidients with coat kings,whilst it was due to not being used right the dogs still suffered injuires,the worse being 48 microstitches. Anything with blades can do damage,the most important thing with a coat king is its used correctly & you get the right one for the dogs coat. If you want to use something with less worry try an undercoat rake. Personally i would leave his beard that is his character & once trimmed he wont have that gentleman look. I would ask a good groomer what they think or even a breeder of either breeds what they use but basically a good slicker & comb through will do the job until the coat is ready to come out

Because owners take on the same role & when the bite gets alot harder its generally when there going to there new homes & the new pack order is to be established. Many people fall into the trap its cute,that fun game doesnt seem so fun anymore,its too small to tell off etc etc. We have had single pups & there is no different in behaviour except they are more people orienated

I react to shar peis with a rash its the only breed i react too. The biggest problem with Shar Pei skin issues is there diet,the breed needs to get alot of fish & there diet needs to be specific.What did the the breeder suggest diet wise??

You dont change any routine unless its needed.You need to see how the dog copes first & then address any issues with certain changes.Too often people try & make more of that is needed & the dog feels more insecure with the changes instead of just sticking to the normal routine

Depends on her heart issue,mine was on fructose(SP) for fluid,fortekor for the heart issue,we also did another drug that was very expense but certainly worked.After a time his dosages where revised

Call around the different vets.Some most certainly charge more.We have just had a giant breed on 2 heart meds,2 months $300 so count yourself lucky. Genearlly the vets start them on a set regime & monitor the outcome,he will always be on meds its a case of which ones. Heart & breathing issue can go hand in hand,generally its the fluid build up . I found my heart dog was like an asthmatic,would wheeze,have bad days/good days & prone to chest infections. Her wonkyness is part of the heart issue & thats why shes put on meds

I think what you need to remember he is a dog,he needs to be treated like a dog & have key words use so a dog can understand. You say "dont hurt him" but hes hurting your children & no matter what the breed that type of hurt just isnt accepted behaviour. I would presume if one of your kids did something to harm one of your others you would take it lightly,lets face it a feral kid is no different to a feral child. As you say he is smart & the reason he is even smarter is he nows where he stands with you & that is when things can go awfully wrong. Some dogs are very mouthy , i have gundogs which are that way but at no point do they draw blood . Dangerous can be a scary word but remember this dog would weigh more than your kids,he could shake the little ones around like a teddy bear & above all one day he may do it to one of there friends & there parents may not be so understanding. You dont have to beat,bash or be cruel you just have to be more serious in your tone & your actions.Its important you get on top of the situation as your the one who is home at the crucial times.

www.grcq.org.au Try contacting the goldie club they have a show next month

poo pick ups should be done daily,not only does it bring flies to the area it also isnt healthy to have laying around. Poop patrol also tells you about the health of your dogs on a daily basis. In 3 days that could be 8 plus poop laying around

It most certainly is fact .Black lab his coat may never be an issue but you wont now until hs coat regrows .In goldies it certainly does alter the coat,some dont look funny clipped but the reasons people want to clip doenst work.We have clipped many old goldies off & have no issues doing so but when people want to clip because they believe it will stop a problem i always make sure they no it wont after all if the groomer cant inform them of what will happen you end up with a devasted pet owner when it regrows but only worse.Explaining to people that the coat need to be raked/stripped out is the under & when placed against the top coat you see its dull,cottony & thick,where the top coat is generally courser,water proof,shiney etc etc Clipping means you are clipping of the correct coat & leaving the undercoat exposed,the undercoat is what sheds & gets thick & also matts. It is very easy to tell a clipped coat as it alters the way it lays,the texture & quality.

Clipping wont solve your shedding problem & wont solve your partners allergies. You most certainly can buy grooming tools that will make a big difference in removing a dead coat. Finding a very good groomer who will rake out all the dead coat would be good & a good groomer should also be able to show you what to buy & how to use it between grooms. You could also try contacting the Golden Retriever club in your state as some goldie breeders do grooming or may be able to suggest someone that wont butcher the coat. Goldies are always shedding so the key is grooming weekly with the right tool & with a person with allergies keeping the dog cleans as possible. What state are in you as we may be able to suggest someone to help

We have a client that has a very demanding dog,would nip her arms ,draw blood,bark just act like a kid having a tanty. These people where so quielty spoken the dog didnt take them seriously & by the time they had said "no" & done the dance of the wiggles the dog thought it was a blast & just blossomed in that atmoshpere. The dog didnt do it with us & it just new where it stood & the dog felt confident & respected us.The dog actually was an angel just the owners werent above the dogs pecking order. Well one day we decided its time for them to deal with the issue. one day when she picked the dog up that we are going to do it different this time. We told her exactly what she had to do,we also gave her a book & told her if the dog doesnt respond the first time,slam the book on the bench & the instant the dog looks up give her the command.Well these people followed through with this method ,most occasions they didnt need to use the book but every so often the dog would just try its luck to see who was the leader.In 2 months this dog has turned over a new leaf,the owners are so thrilled & the dog is so much more calmer & above all doesnt do the bad stuff anymore. We have stressed to them that a good result doesnt mean you let your guard down & they havent. These people paid over $2000 for professional help.now they spent $1 for a fly swat,leave it the one spot & if for any reason the dog defies there vocal commands they bang the bench,they are now redoing there obedience with confidience & have a whole new luv for the dog. The problem is people yell the dogs name so many times without anything happenng the dog goes deaf,they say "no" so many times with no result the word means nothing. The fact is whether it be a chi or a great dane the same rules apply ,its a dog,its respects its owners & the rules must be consistant .

I wouldnt have a kid squell whilst the dog has hold,dogs react to the noise & often the reason kids are bitten in an attack is because of the noise. Depending on which kid it is the really need to give it a command & start to gain respect.Its obviously happen for awhile now & its a game for the dog.Kid squells,mum pries mouth open & the dog has all the attention it wants & above all one the game. It really is time to address the verbal respect,using food reward will also help. If the dog is doing it you need to use a method that doesnt give him more attention than he deerves. If he is wearing a collar gently hold it & tell him to "sit" no other words just the set command.Use food aswell if he responds but get his focus off what hes doing with the lest amount of fuss but above all you need to stop it before he does it Its a case now of setting the rules of who is in charge & what is acceptable behaviour . I would also consider he isnt hurting by trying to save.

Firstly being an only pup has no baring at all,infact most hand raised pups are so human orientated they are much easier to live with & learn at a much younger age human commands & they ways of life. I agree when you posted about the humping that was the crucial stage of training,sadly many people thinks its funny until you end up with now,now its a problem,dog is older & everyone wants it fixed. The first thing you need to look at is why is the dog still mouthing,when does it do it the most & what activities are being done at that time??What do you do when it happens,has the dog learnt to sit??Have you started obedience classes??Have you talked with the breeder about the problems?? The other factor is ofcourse the dog training is also as successful as the childrens behaviour around the dog.It needs to be 50/50 in the blame game as generally problems start because the situation was fun at first & then out of control

If he has the option of both he will drink the milk ,take that away or water it down until he is weaned to the water.The puppy milk isnt really needed & if you do give it its simply as a treat

Remember he may be having fun but he is learning no manners & no manners means trouble. Offleash parks do have requirements & that is the dog is under effective control at all times infact this is a requirement when out in public fullstop. Its safe to say all he has learnt at present is to go to the park be feral not come when called & do what he pleases. Its time to go to obedience classes & become the leader & then you will have a dog that is a pleasure at the park . It will take more than weeks ,he is 9 mths now & hasnt a clue so you now have retrain all the bad manners he has aquired.

Depends how fair it is.remember if she has lead a placid life for 4 years & is arthritic then she may not have great muscle tone which means like us any exercise will bring some soreness in the muscle & there pads(feet) as there not be hardened by active exercise already. I would do a month of short spells & just see how the dog goes & check her feet weekly. Even sitting out the front in a fold up chair on a long lead can be very stimulating & different.

Old age dogs doing light exercise is a must.In winter a small walk can do wondres,arthritic dogs that lay around alot tend to get stiffer & sorer & once they start losing muscle condition things start to get worse. A little bit goes along way,even just going to the letter box & back or a few houses down makes an old dog feel real spiffy