Dogsfevr

You say when he gets rough you get rougher thats exactly what he expects from your daughter ,it is taught behaviour that he believes is very acceptable. You cant have halfway games & then not like the results. Im sorry to say but its time for all the family members to go back to training especially you your createing a monster rough house playing is the biggest nono its like stirring the pot but not wanting to deal with the results,you cant half stir & have your cake & it eat it so to speak. Your 5 month old has aquired bad behaviour .It chases,it plays so rough you say it pulls your daughter down,growls .That isnt a good resume for a young pup so you need to look at why & what the adults are doing to contribute.Dont just put it down to puppy stage because this isnt your run of the mill puppy stage manners.Not one of my dogs over the years & i have had many from small breed to large have done any of this type of thing & if they did it would only be once. There is a big difference between an exerubate pup & a pup that plays so rough it doesnt now when to end it at present you have the latter plus confusion. When it comes to bike time i would either place pupy in the house for its time out so she can ride or have the dog onlead & use it as a training exercise . Sorry to say but it sounds like this pup is very confused about what is acceptable it doesnt understand 9 year old versus adult man it just understand rough play thats allowed

Dont be fooled that because its a vet its safe the risk is the same as anywhere the fact is sick dogs attend the vets & not all of it is disinfected nor is the carpark etc. We vacc at 6,12 & then there is the optional booster. Its up to you what you do but your breeders card is right but issues in your area could also affect the vets advice so ask have there been any reported parvo cases etc etc otherwise also speak to your breeder

I cant help but ask but how does your 5 month cocker get your daughter down to the ground,what does she do prior to this event happening whilst i certainly agree that order in the whole house needs to be replaced it seems like somthing is missing from the equation. Personally i think your method of pinning is way off the mark.will create major issues & isnt teaching the dog anything .The fact is the game /lack of order started well before hand so by the time YOU have disciplined him he hasnt a real clue why & the person he feels higher in rank has done nothing to become higher up,you have done it all & the dog has won the battle in that game.If your method was working it wouldnt be happeneing again & again. Puppy school means nothing & if your relying on just that things will go wrong. It sounds like your daughter needs to look at what she is doing & she seriously needs to be intergrated into the daily routine to retain leadership skills. It sounds like both are starting off playing but when it gets to much the dog wins,realistically there is no reason why a cocker baby should be pulling your daughter to the ground

Dogs ideally should be groomed on nuetral ground.Washing machine bench top or grooming table if you have a handy hubby or you buy one. Grooming is about all facets,brushing the dog,inspecting between the toes,checking the eras,checking teeth & looking for any unusual lumps & bumps & basically just getting to now your dogs body. Grooming should be fun but it isnt a game & thats where many go wrong. Place puppy where you want & just tell it stand,support its belly saying the word them reward & that is game time.Just be patient but it will happen laying down just makes it hard work The problem with teaching to brush upside down is the top doesnt get maintained,generally hairy dogs are hairy top & bottom & all areas ned to be brushed thoroughly & when upside down on your knee it doesnt get done . Plus as i say when it needs to be clipped etc the dog has to stand

Yep there just junk food & now there are so many Schmacko brabd varities & some are certainly worse than others like the peanut butter ones. We see so many diabetic dogs these days in the kennels & many of the owners use to give 3 strips aday. These where also past client that we informed with there normal food diet plus the treats there dogs where highest risk for diabetes,they wished they had listened. We have them in the kennels & there used for treats only but milk arrowroots are great for the special occasions try Tiny Teddies although my boys favourite is dried banana chips

Please dont teach you dog to lay down to be brushed,as a professional groomer this is the worse thing you can do especially when it comes time for clipping as we need them to stand up. Slicker brushed are a great tool BUT some are very harsh,with our pup owners & clients we recommend the cta slickers ,we always suggest you run the slicker up your own arm if it hurts or breaks skin its no good,they may leave a light staright mark but there should be no discomfort.You also need to use a combo comb. The soft bristle brush is useless ,it just smoothers over the top coat without getting to the skin where the coat matts from. Place dog on a table or washing machine,always use a rubber or non slip matt,place pup there & tell it to stand. To put it blunt dont piss fart about,the more you try to bride,play etc the longer it takes & little is achieved ,dogs dont need ing bribing the just need simple words & a person brushing confidiently without acknowledging the tainty,dummy spits & the battle. If pup wiggles then be firm & in control,Tell pup "stand" & continue to brush,if it fights you agin or tries to bite you then again its a firm NO & stand. Puppies at present are being the boss NO pup should bite whilst being brushed & it isnt just puppy behaviour it is the pup ruling the roost & it can often equate to everyday behaviour,often dogs that try it on when being brushed can be a tad obnoxious in daily life but brushing is for life & your pups will stand still & let you brush you just need to do the job with the said keywords & dont dilly dally about no different than a human kid ,there generally told sit dowm & dont move dog is no different. Never brush when sleepy or disturb a sleep to brush,dont give treats or a bone when the behaviour isnt rewardable,they are being rewarded for being feral,act up get a treat the owners falling over themselves to please the dogs,its the other way around the dogs should please you & it be very enjoyable & easy.

For me i dont care where its made im more concerened with what suits my breed/individual dogs & the ingredients .

GSD can most certainly be diarrhea prone more than most breeds,food will go through like you wouldnt believe & they breed is often prone to mal absorbtion issues BUT if the runs persist then something isnt right. GSD will also gets the runs like you wouldnt believe on beef. If it was 1 of my dogs i would be cooking up some pumpkin or potatoe & chicken mince for a week & see if things improve(we never use rice )if it does i would continue for another week the keythe dog gt any other food,treats(pigears,schmackos etc )you need to see diet wise where you stand now so a suitable diet can be found so your pup doesnt suffer latter on. I would also go to the chemist & buy some acidophilus tablets to restore the gut & lining.You could use yoghurt but we found some GSD seemed to not do well with the dairy side of things I owned a GSD that diet was so important even with the boarding kennels when we get GSD we always meet the diet its sue too or the owners bring because they get the runs so easily. Presuming he is getting no other foods than the dry & occasional chicken kneck then i would be starting to worry it really isnt normal to just have the runs & it isnt pleasant for the dog & makes toilet training very hard. I know Royal canin do a specific GSD dry,i am not recommending this as such but it has been supposedly created due to the GSD stomach being so prone to the runs & absorpbtion issues. It really is a case by case thing but i would certainly drop the dry at present & go bland & try to re establish the stomach lining

I encourage all my males to squat

In our house there isnt a set food time,food comes when its convient for the humans not when the dogs start to demand. When we cook they may look or smell but they dont get excited because we dont react & they never incharge of food demands

The trainer should have done it different when it was growling but no doubt it was a class,rush ,rush & push it the wrong way. Growling dogs shouldnt win but it needs to be addressed differently & to still get attacked really does show they arent that good.As said a good trainer doesnt get bitten so easily. As i pm i wouldnt do any of what is recommended ,you say you are getting results at home now why ruin it in one day,i would be seeking the help of a professional trainer who will educate you on how to handle & train a dog that has showen an issue. You are very lucky it has happened early you have some many avenues to rectify the issue but you must seek the help of the right people with the right knowledge. I agree with Miranda i now a vet that had a 16 yr old do puppy preschool classes & had never owned a dog.many use vet nurses & im sorry to say any form of dog traing should be done with someone experienced.it is just like school & teachers

When you house sit /foster what ever you need to ensure the routine stays the same.It sounds like something happened to your pup to create an issue that most likely nobody noticed,i wont say there learning from them but did they steal ;affis food,toys,treats,was Laffi made to feel threatened when eating by them?? but the issue now is the dog has done something. I will say though the trainer didnt handle the situation well at all,good trainers dont get bitten they now better & read body laguage & the signs to adjust a method to ensure the outcome is a positive one.When the trainer approached what did they do,what command did they give & what was the reward treat or did she just come up & grab expecting all to be hunky dory?? What actual signs did the dog show before bitting??? You do have a serious issue & one that most certainly can be dealt with if done correctly.Be patient but do the work but above all dont make a big deal over the food removing it needs to be done calmly,correctly so the pup understands it isnt in control & that taking food away isnt the end of the world Yep start with low value & work up but be consistant ,any food given needs to be done for a job for which you are in control

Daisey this isnt directed at you but it is also amazing with the elderly how many family now about the dogs & also wont help. We have kids drop there parents dogs off & tell its been like this for awhile etc etc & they havent even attempted to help. I now it can be hard but many people just dont plan there dogs grooming until its too late & when the dog comes in its so bad but the usual excuse it happened over night. I have 18 dogs,all high maintance & not one has knots plus i work full time I plan my time & make the ffort but its amazing how many cannot do 1 dog

We always feel the dogs whilst the owners are present .If there badly matted we give them the choice of a clippoff or they can go elsewhere. If the dog has sores we will still clip because atleast it benefits the dog .like you if there is a bad area we will trim it within reason & then tell them we will not clip the rest as it needs vet care. We always keep the hair & if need be will take photos. We still bath etc & then disinfect the bath,table,blades,scissors & anything else. Besides the fact a dog shouldnt get to that stage & in reality a groomers job shouldnt be to dematt dogs but to groom them(i consider dog grooming that of a hairdresser) it also ruins your blades & scissors doing dogs in such a bad state

Attach self water bowl to the tap & place up the wall.We get a few in boarding that do this & it started as a game now the owners regret it big time. I do have a giant metal bowl that comes with a lid that the setters use in my bedroom ,it is great.

We dont use any of them.We dont apply unnecessary products for no reason.We dont have fleas & our dogs arent treated so we wont apply/give a chemical just incase. For what the above costs it works out cheaper & more practical to just buy an all wormer from the supermarket(excelepet is perectly fine). If the dog actually has fleas them you can just buy the excelepet flea liquidator which clients with infested dogs found to work better. Which is better ??Your vet will say there one as they get comission & as would the RSPCA. Did the reeder suggest one to use as some of the products have had reactions with some breeds

It doesnt affect australia

I think what you need to understand that making a dog sleep outside doesnt make training any easier or lesser a problem.having a yard to roam around at night & toilet when it feels like means very little to the dog compared to its family companianship & getting excited about its morning routine. If you want to have a sleep in the dog doesnt understand that,as far as its concerned every morning means a walk rain,hail or shine but above all the dog nows when the sun starts rising its getting closer to its people time. You want your sleep the dog just wants its owners & special time. What time do you place it out at night?? When is its last feed???? What is its nightly routine????? How do you place it out???? Everytime it barks in the morning what do you do/what have you done?????

Dogs are creatures of habit & very routine but often people stick to such a schedule that the dog pre emps everything.They now when its feed time,walk time,there time etc etc. I dare say for this girl the highlight of her morning is seeing you ,then gets her walk ,feed .Every day . How long has she been outside permantly ???

Generally pups fly very well .I would most certainly take a wet flannel & towel just incase an accidient has aoccured.If the pup has messed itself & is dirty then most defiantely wash it. For me i would just drive home but if you feel the need to walk aften at the airport there are areas more away from frieght(where the dogs walk) to take it,remember it most likely wont be lead trained . Dont go over the top when you pick the pup up be very calm & react quietly but with confidience & when you get pup home do the same.Take pup outside & walk around calmly & again with confidience in your voice tone the pup will be looking for the people to trust & the quicker they trust the quicker they ajust & settle over do it & the up can retreat.So many people drag pup out the crate & go over the top & it is just all too much for the pup .If its a little fazed it will bounce back quickly but your reactions can most certainly make it more stressful

I now of many dogs who have required emergency surgery to remove bone build up & the advice isnt total rubbish . It is more common than people wish to accept & many people have ended up with mega vet bills to fix the build up . Some may say the vets advice is poor but the vets i now arent food police but deal with the surgery some of the diets can cause each week so it isnt something i w ould ignore

Everyone doesnt need to meet your pup staright away & its very easy to say No. The first few weeks are crucial for your pup & your current dog that has greeting issues & you need to see what happpens with the 2 before the home is open besides that you pup also needs to to adapt to a giant breed that it doesnt now & isnt the same breed . people can wait to see a pup but the wrong intro for the first week or more may mean a life time problem. You also need to remember if everyone is around greeting the pup then the berner is being left out & that can create jealousy issues.

Friends used this product & there dogs went deranged within 20 mins.

personally i would never allow any of my dogs to play/meet a dog that is constantly aggressive. You will either end up with a pup thats submissive & fearful of dogs or a pup that decides he will respond & be aggressive too. I would be backing of & ensuring your pup meets freindly/good experience dogs

My opinion for the first week have no visitors.Allow the 2 dogs to get to no each other before people start to come especially if the Berner performs. Personally i believe pups need to make the first move withinn reason & people need to react in a calm fashion & with a giant breed thats one thing i would stress to friends you now drop around alot that you want the saints greeting to be very productive but not over the top,you dont want them hyping the dog up as it isnt fun at 50 kg. teaching it to sit is a good thing but it isnt going to happen straight away so its important it gets to great in a civilized way & if pup sits on its own praise