Dogsfevr

I would be asking what exactly are they x raying for?? I would ask what the $500 exactly covers. I would be talking to the breeder & asking what vet they suggest. We always use either Bowen or a chiro for an injury before doing the vet unless its obvious its a break. Knowing what danes are like when we board them i would say hes just sore more than anything & needs to to rest

I would treat his feet for Tinea or wash in white vinegar.Often the yeast problem can be in the feet & the dog scratches its ears & rubs its face & spreads the problem or vice versa. You could rub natural yoghurt on the ear area.

Beef is the worse for allergies & surprised the vet didnt tell you try an alternative meat. Roo is good for dogs with allergies but like anything some dogs can react . What did your breeder suggest when you got the pup??

I agree generally when sibes come in for the works its because there coat is so bad that the owners have given up or not touched it. Whilst we get alot of the hair out the bathing & drying stimulates the shedding & its then up to the owners to work hard on the coat to ensure the coat doesnt get to being so built up. Sibes is a weekly maintance & if you dont brush out weekly & you leave it then there is no way a groomer will be able to do a few months of dead coat in one groom. We do a few sibes that often come in with 4 months plus of dead coat & to e honest the $60 doesnt make up for all the hair you have to clean up & retrieve for the next week. The groomers do the hard work & people expect a miracle in one groom it doesnt work that way ,if you dont want hair then start doing more with the coat

I know of far too many dogs that had to have surgery for sock eating ,whilst it is cute socks can be a dreaded curse when the dogs eat them & generally by the time owners realize its a very serious medical issue.

As a groomer & schnauzer breeder i suggest you get the dog groomed professionally before you start clipping.Then clip the dog regurlary whilst you have an outline. The most important part with groooming is unless your going to do the whole package(nails,plucking ears) then your better to get it done. Schnauzers arent easy to master & a DVD depending on who has done it could be teaching you how to trim a mini wrong. Contact the schnauzer club or your breeder who will be able to get grooming charts for you. For a schnauzer you will need a #7,#10 or #15,#40 for ears plus your ear pluckers.. I agree with schmoo we also see the worst in home trained dogs so if your dog isnt great with grooming then think twice as it can be dangerous for dog & clippers if inexperienced. Malsam what do you mean by study the after effects & failed in the technique part?? I hope your study encomapsses the poor condidtion most dogs come in & the fact groomers have to do the dirty,painful work that makes grooming a displeasurable experience for some dogs

Its time to be a good owner & not pander to what the dog wants. The dog wont starve but its training you & you have given in & trained it to the worst habit hand feeding. The problem will not improve on the current method but will get worse. His food comes out of the bowl ,no treats no nothing by hand,NO ONE feeds it scrapes or anything bad until the dog nows where his food comes from . Leave the food down for 15 mins pick up & give latter & do so each day. Pick a diet & stick with it,your pup may also be teething badly which can affect the eating so ensure the biscuits are soaked. Do you feed dry only??It sounds like you need to give other permant alternatives like roo meat,mutton mince,tuna/sardines etc even try some pal puppy pink label. The biggest problem is you at present if this was a child you wouldnt hand feed it for 2 hrs the dog is no different also make sure its exercisng,you could also get some nutrigel from the vet

Flyball has never taken off in perth & the fact most obedience clubs dont teach/train this may be the reason. I own aa fly ball box(old style) & trained the dogs way back then but it seemed when someone got its tarted some other person would get huffy & take over & then it would cease again. I would approach you clubs & ask them,it is big in melbourne & i have a few friends with fly ball titled dogs

Duck is richer than roo. Roo is the most commonly suggested meat to use on allergy dogs. You can either buy pet mince roo at all supermarkets or human mince roo. Its up too you but if you feel the royal canin could be a factor i would cut that out asap .Personnally i would never feed beef as it causes so many issues . The pinkness is generally saliva stains from the licking which then leads to moist skin & problems multiply. You can bath the dog in white vinegar in the water as that helps with bacteria,tinea type stuff.Some of the vet only shampoos do nothing . I would do a diet change,cut out any unneeded treats(schmackos etc) for a month & see what happens. Make sure you do a plant/grass check so if there are any problem areas there you now but i think you will find its diet. We actually get people who board there dogs with us to see if there symptons stop & in many basic cases yes as there not getting the home diet,treats & exposure to certain garden issues. The clients have found it easier to do it this way & cheaper .Some vets charge $1000 plus for so called allergery issues & dont give any real help to problems except meds. Flaxseed supplements are good,fish added to the diet (tuna,sardines) try natural alternatives & the breeders advice The other thing ofcourse is dont over do the diet so many people go over the top & forget the good simple basics. The other thing ofcourse is many pander to what the dog wants to eat not stick to what the dog should eat. I say this in respnse to your other post.The dogs tied to the fence get feed the baiscs & no unndeeded treates etc & dont get allergies because there owners arent giving them allergery foods. Pig ears,schmackos etc etc can be allergery causes plus any other table scraps etc dogs are given. When all the unwanted things are given the dog end up with the runs from too much food & stuff its stomach cant handle. Some of the flea stuff can react with dogs

Necer hold a puppies muzzle .They are teething,have sore chums & often swallon gums & holding the muzzle like that will note succeed in anything but pain for the pup & getting head shy. The simple fact is you need to assert yourself,dogs do it because its allowed.It ether starts because everyone isnt consistant,the game being played results in the pup being in control or its encourage to do something but the end result isnt what the humans want. Nothing works because at present the dog has no respect for your commands or voice tone.He is still a baby & trying the waters but you need to start being the leader & being in charge . Commands should be swift & with a distinct voice tone which changes from praise to discipline. In all the years we have never done the yelping growling etc etc in our house No means No plain & simple .

The first thing to scrape is beef,the biggest allergy problem a dog can be feed ,it over heats them & ccan be a hot spot causer.I would also scrape the rice total waste of time. Is what your feeding what the breeder suggested?? Personnally i would be trying roo meat & spuds for a month & see what happens.A dog with severe allergies is a mess sounds like the vet is over doing it & not offering any basic changes to try first. Grasses can be an issue so research whats in your garden

I would suggest maybe getting them done professionally & then mantaining the shape every 4 weeks depending on the clippers you have,Its easier to clip a little off than alot

Why buy blades from the US when you can get them here just as cheap?? The only time i would buy clippers from the US is if the brand wasnt available here. Buy the time you buy with the dollar.postage,insurance etc it doesnt work out cheap

I will disagree to one point the vets isnt the safest place,after all thats where you take sick dogs,they walk /poop in the carpark.If parvo is around the dogs are at the vets or sat in the waiting room.Not all owners will phone prior to or leave the dog in the car they sit in the waiting room without saying what the dogs symptons are.So many do this with KC by which time it may have infected other clients. We dont enecourgae or puppy owners to go but its there risk. When ever we have to have a dog in the vets we always phone that morning to see if they have any cases of parvo/carona/gastro .Our vets are great & always inform us & if it isnt urgent we will hold off. Going to your parents is great but remember parvo is spread by faeces & when you walk you can tread on it & bring it home.This is why everyone should pick up after there dogs

Buy flea rinse & bath the pup. Saly with roaming cats come the fleas & your neighbours cats will become an expensive exercise as the fleas will end up in your house ,garden etc & a dog going crazy. You can use spot one at this age but if your doing heartworm with another product make sure what you use doesnt also do heartworm so you double dose.

Everyone is different but we dont recommend puppy preschool to our new owners. Personally i also wouldnt be rushing out the next day with a pup that has just arrived to its new home & will still be adjusting to that.

I hate the chain leads but buy one & then do the training.It chews the lead because it can.Most people try to stop the dog by tugging the lead which turns into a tug o war game ,the dog wins & thinks its highly acceptable. When the dog starts to chew what do you do??Make it sit,drop,watch ??

If your backyard is secure then let her outside on her own. What have to realize is when you go back to uni/work she will not have you there all the time. It is crucial at this age to encourage independance & time away.She needs to be able to cope on her own without you being her shadow.When you do go back where will she be?? If you dont start allowing her to do this when it does come time it will be traumatic on the d Our pups at 6 weeks run an acre ,we glance out the window but they run & your pup would have done the same with its breeder.

Does she spend anytime outside unsupervised?/How much time is she outside during the day?? When you get up in the morning its either you toilet first then pup or place pup straight outside & then you go loo whilst shes out there. I would also place puppy on lead & tell her Toilet whilst on the lead,wehn she goes Praise do this ofetn so she gets it but it does sound more a case of pup not getting out in time or being allowed detours on the ground before shes allowed out.If she cant go straight out dont let her roam. The problem with telling her off is she has no alternatives,no doggy door,pee area so she is reliant on you .

In a nutshell the dog will be bathed BUT make sure there is a non slip mat,a slipping dog will panic more than getting bathed,be organized have everything ready. Sometimes with babies using a cheap harness for extra control can be useful. The laundry tub is a great place,less roaming area & you can attach a cheap hose extension for easier washing If you cant do a full bath you can also use a warm bucket with shampoo & sponge the dog but bathing is part of life & just stick with it,be firm,patient & with time it will tolerate /enjoy.Often those washed in cold water have a hissy fit at first because its such a shock the same as us hopping striaght into a cold shower

Hyper active is a dog if you dont want that part your in trouble for the next 12 years. Beagles are active dogs,they love to explore & use there noise,there not couch potatoes or lazy critters but functional scent hounds,you cant change the breed characteristics you can train a dog to be well behaved but the humans also have to realize a dog is a dog & does dog things. Give the pup a chance to settle,it would be like you getting off a plane in a foreign country & no one spoke your language or understood you . The key is to be patient,consistant & not have over the top expectations.Pups learn quickly but you need to focus on ensuring toilet skills etc are the first priority & the all the other skills come with time & effort.

Yep no injections here & we advise our new puppy owners against it. We use the plain & simple old fashioned way

Happy its good your learning,your breeder should also be a good source of info. The problem is vets use certain brands/products & basically it is a sales pitch on those products being the best. When it comes to heartworm all worming we do it the very simple & old fashioned way& dont purchase any of the products from the vets,good old excelpet at the supermarket is just as good as what the vets sell.One product for each thing. We dont use Frontline etc etc.We dont have fleas & see no reason to give the dog a chemical for no reason.I believe you can truley over use the flea stuff & when you want it to work it doesnt. The problem with vets is many do not understand breed specific issues nor do many of there staff. Many years ago to feed Eukanuba to a Bedlington that was CT positive would kill it.Lets face it how many have walked into the vet brought a product with no questions asked ,yes the same can happen at any stock feeds etc. You also get the vets that when new owners take there pup in for there second jab will tell them what the breeder has suggested is not good & to feed what they seel whether that be dry,spot ons etc etc. in our puppy kit we are very specific with what we suggest & we have even phoned vets up complaining about the tactics they pulled on new owners & the scare mongering they did with product advice & boy did the pack it when told so. Vets can be very knowledgable but sadly most havent a clue on breed specific issues & nor do they care to learn or admit when there wrong. Our vets are great if they have breed specific issues they will ring breeders & seek there advice. The way i look at it with my dogs is the same i would myself,i would never take drugs or be given stuff without knowing why,the pros/cons/ups/downs & what alternatives there may be . I remember many years ago a vet who did a radio show claimed daily heartworm was useless & it doesnt work you must only use said product which ofcourse is vet only,to put it bluntly the shit hit the fan & The vet had to apologize & admit what was aid was for profit only but many people where panicked thinking they had done wrong.

I dont think you have to change vets but it surprises how many people allow the vet to give things without asking questions,getting paperwork & reading it & deciding what the pros/cons are. If more people ask there vets why ,they would be more accountable for what there doing.why there giving it & why it is so much better than the alternatives. Make yourself a smart visitor & ask questions you pay for the consult not the sales pitch.

So the dog was vacc only but the vet suggested the heartworn the next visit?? We are old fashioned here ,the dogs get heartworm only.We dont use any of the frontline etc as our dogs dont have fleas & we see no point giving more chemicals for no reasons & infact many dogs do react to the frontline plus. What did your breeder suggest??